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Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
Read the sticky regarding shocks and springs (suspension). There you'll find what the job of a shock and what the job of a spring is. Also has some good recommendations
I didn't find a sticky but I read numerous suspension threads and couldn't find the OEM replacement part numbers for Tokico and KYB rear shocks for a car with normal suspension.
[QUOTE=Grace_Excel;4726084]Facing the front of the car, the oil drain plug is on the left side of the oil pan. The one to it's right with the wires is the sensor. The bolt uses a 19mm socket.[/QUOTE
Yeah I realized I had screwed up when I noticed the red tint to the fluid and looked up and saw the actual oil pan. Found out I was right about which was the fill plug, it was the top one and took a 24mm or 15/16 in socket to break it loose.
I didn't find a sticky but I read numerous suspension threads and couldn't find the OEM replacement part numbers for Tokico and KYB rear shocks for a car with normal suspension.
Thank you so much Steve. Much appreciated. Thing is, I think these part numbers are for sports suspension. There was a thread one guy started about replacing all 4 shocks with KYB Gas-A-Just and he mentioned the same part numbers. 551115 and 551116. The vehicle I'm talking about has standard suspension. Do you have the part numbers for the standard suspension or do both suspension types use the same shocks?
Wow. You mean 4 port automatics actually exist in the wild? Unbelievable. You had better relocate that car to a vehicle preserve before someone poaches it for its tiny brake rotors.
There is nothing in the aftermarket specifically made for the non-sport suspension. The main differences between the suspensions are softer springs, softer sway bars, and less aggressive valving in the shocks (to make that baby ride like a Cadillac!). The part numbers I gave you will physically fit the car and work with the softer springs, since they aren't much softer. Being adjustable, the KYBs enable you to adjust for that, but the rears are impractical to adjust once installed.
Wow. You mean 4 port automatics actually exist in the wild? Unbelievable. You had better relocate that car to a vehicle preserve before someone poaches it for its tiny brake rotors.
There is nothing in the aftermarket specifically made for the non-sport suspension. The main differences between the suspensions are softer springs, softer sway bars, and less aggressive valving in the shocks (to make that baby ride like a Cadillac!). The part numbers I gave you will physically fit the car and work with the softer springs, since they aren't much softer. Being adjustable, the KYBs enable you to adjust for that, but the rears are impractical to adjust once installed.
Haha yeah they exist. Sweet. I'll pass him the info. Thank you so much!
Rx -8 Bros, so still puzzled over here on what the issue is causing my Rx-8 to crank. Usually when I fill up my car thats when I notice it every week. But just had a big long crank when I stopped at a Autozone to check the battery for a second time. Everything came out good, no codes too. I am thinking its either the fuel injectors or the ECU. I had the starter replaced, new battery, new fuel pump, new solenoids(All done by the dealer). I cleaned the MAF, the throttle body too. What do you guys think?
What's the exact issue? It's taking a long time to crank over?
If so, have you replaced plugs, wires and coils? How's your compression?
Yes they were replaced not too long ago. The compression is good as far as I know. I had the compression tested by Mazda and my personal mechanic. Could the ECU or a bad fuel injector be the cause?
Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
Well if you read that sticky, you would notice that leaking injectors could be causing hard start issues.
The thing is that you need to troubleshoot to figure out what the exact issue is.
Read through the sticky I mentioned, and if you still can't discover the issue, report back what you have done and what didn't work.
Haha yeah they exist. Sweet. I'll pass him the info. Thank you so much!
So you can adjust the stiffness of the KYBs?
Yes, you can adjust the rebound on the KYBs. The problem is you have to remove the rears from the car to adjust them, so most people just set them in the middle, install them once, and never touch them again.
Well if you read that sticky, you would notice that leaking injectors could be causing hard start issues.
The thing is that you need to troubleshoot to figure out what the exact issue is.
Read through the sticky I mentioned, and if you still can't discover the issue, report back what you have done and what didn't work.
But on a side note. I am really happy right now. I have to confirm but it looks like Mazda replaced the Cat. Converter cause it was under warranty last year.
The car just started fine but still researching and reading the thread.
Question: I know the 3 rotor isn't common on the street but was wondering if any one is aware of the cost of the 3 rotor and the real problems there are to adapting a 3 rotor to a stock 4 port motor for the street?.
Question: I know the 3 rotor isn't common on the street but was wondering if any one is aware of the cost of the 3 rotor and the real problems there are to adapting a 3 rotor to a stock 4 port motor for the street?.
ok, this isn't a simple question, but I will be brief as I can.
Look at RIWWP's signature, he answers this question, but in a different way.
Monetarily it will vary on your problem solving ability and physical ability to mold your surrounding.
-IE Can you weld, build engine, program ECUs, wire circuits, balance a turbocharger, do maths?!?!
Assuming 1 or 2 of those maybe 15-20k. If you have friends that can do many of those maybe 7-10? that assumes you have zero of the parts you need.
Taking a Renesis engine and adding another rotor is not easily. I it far easier to take an existing 3 rotor engine and put it in the car.
Technical Problems will be at least
-Cooling!!!!OMG HOT!!!
-Oil Capacity
-Premix (Separate from cooling)
-Tuning
-Mounting (most make a 13B adapter kit for the FD, but not sure on the 20B)
-Fuel Delivery
-Electrical relocation
Might want to look at RX7club for some more specific information on 3 rotors. In my opinion adding another rotor isn't worth it for all the turbocharger and supercharger information available and cost. (20k vs 5k)
I have to replace the belts on my car. Was going to upgrade the pulleys while I'm at it. Used to have a chain instead of belt system on an older car and it just felt right. Was wondering if the RX8 had a chain option?
I have to replace the belts on my car. Was going to upgrade the pulleys while I'm at it. Used to have a chain instead of belt system on an older car and it just felt right. Was wondering if the RX8 had a chain option?
I admit I'm not familiar with the concept, but a chain on a high rpm rotary doesn't sound like a good idea.
I have to replace the belts on my car. Was going to upgrade the pulleys while I'm at it. Used to have a chain instead of belt system on an older car and it just felt right. Was wondering if the RX8 had a chain option?
The timing chain on the Mazdaspeed is a chain, but you do not want that spinning at 9k rpm at least. The crank is what is at 9k rpm, not the rotors, so the pulley depending on the drive could be even higher and a chain will unbalance it.
A belt is designed to slip, expand, shrink to prevent from breaking items if they lock up like the A/C compressor and alternator.
Getting a more industrial belt, and better pulley sounds about right and for the series 1 at least, it is a pretty common thing. I would NOT **** with the alternator drive on a series 2, and possible the series 1 because it is a phase controlled alternator that receives a signal from the PCM. That is the exact reason you do not run the car without a battery, cap, or load because it will jump to 16v and freak out and possible nuke the PCM. As far as I know everything else isn't a big deal.
The timing chain on the Mazdaspeed is a chain, but you do not want that spinning at 9k rpm at least.
The crank is what is at 9k rpm, not the rotors, so the pulley depending on the drive could be even higher and a chain will unbalance it.
You do know that our oil pump is chain-driven directly off the eccentric shaft, right? (What's a "crank"? )
Of course, it is constantly bathed in oil though.
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