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It may be a different shape on an auto, but it is definitely the heat shield. Look closely, it goes around the front of the exhaust pipe in your picture.
It almost looks like cast aluminum to me...but the picture is so hard to tell. I can't think of anything it could be...although 8 haven't seen the underside of an AT either.
Hmm that makes alot of sense but I just dont get where did the transmission fluid go. I mean....its supposed to be full. No leaks in my driveway, and there may be some pothole damage underneath. We shall see tomorrow, if there is I am going to file a claim with my insurance company. Thanks for taking a second look. I appreciate it. I have too look into that too.
I am dying to find out how it runs with the tranny fluid back in. I KNEW SOMETHING WAS WRONG. I KNOW my car. I dont claim to know anything, I just know when something feels off with it.
I'm with Loki at this point. I think it is your rusted and mangled header heat shield. There just isn't anything else in that area that looks remotely similar to that.
As for the AT fluid, did you check it right after it was filled? You should always check your fluids immediately after service. Lube monkeys screw it up ALL THE TIME--especially auto transmissions. If you didn't check it, you don't know it was properly filled to begin with.
I'm with Loki at this point. I think it is your rusted and mangled header heat shield. There just isn't anything else in that area that looks remotely similar to that.
As for the AT fluid, did you check it right after it was filled? You should always check your fluids immediately after service. Lube monkeys screw it up ALL THE TIME--especially auto transmissions. If you didn't check it, you don't know it was properly filled to begin with.
Yep it was the heat shield. The mechanic added some oil not much they told me. There were bad sounds as I shifted into the R and Drive gear but it went away. I mean for now.
Here is what it sounded like before I added the tranny fluid. Now it sounds okay.
Auto. Also more images. THANK YOU SO MUCH for replying. By the way those pics were taken when the car was at operating temperature. When it was heated up.
Color is still pink, so since it was serviced a couple years ago, just put some Dexron III down the stick tube.
If it was no stick with 6speed,it would take the Toyota JWS3309 type like mine.
Your rusted heat shield is the rattle.
I had a Dodge straTUS that wouldn't shift when 1/2 quart low, so get a little bit in there, and you're good as long as trans is shifting right.
Yep it was the heat shield. The mechanic added some oil not much they told me. There were bad sounds as I shifted into the R and Drive gear but it went away. I mean for now.
Here is what it sounded like before I added the tranny fluid. Now it sounds okay.
Yeah, that sound is: when in gear, torque is flexing engine and trans on the mounts, and touching heat shield. I wish most other troubles were so easy to see.
Yeah, that sound is: when in gear, torque is flexing engine and trans on the mounts, and touching heat shield. I wish most other troubles were so easy to see.
So removing the heat shield was part of removing the sound issue. Thank you for replying.
Last edited by mazdafan1892; 01-01-2018 at 02:54 PM.
I have an appointment with the dealership to check on this a week or so from now. I wonder how they can test a transmission without removing it. Besides checking the dipstick/changing gears. I am sure they have a computer to scan it for issues.
I have an appointment with the dealership to check on this a week or so from now. I wonder how they can test a transmission without removing it. Besides checking the dipstick/changing gears. I am sure they have a computer to scan it for issues.
The TCM or transmission control module has access through the OBD CAN system. You can see a lot of data through the scanner. That will allow them to see a lot to help diagnose the issues
The TCM or transmission control module has access through the OBD CAN system. You can see a lot of data through the scanner. That will allow them to do see a lot to help diagnose the issues
True. I am sure they have a much more sophisticated ODB scanner than mine. Lets see. Only other thing that is lingering is my brakes. I think one or two brake calipers are messed up. I just had my rear brake pads and rotors replaced. So strange but in rain storm or ESPECIALLY when it snows I tap the brake slightly and it feels like the pedal is touching the wheel or going through the wheels. Hard to explain.
True. I am sure they have a much more sophisticated ODB scanner than mine. Lets see. Only other thing that is lingering is my brakes. I think one or two brake calipers are messed up. I just had my rear brake pads and rotors replaced. So strange but in rain storm or ESPECIALLY when it snows I tap the brake slightly and it feels like the pedal is touching the wheel or going through the wheels. Hard to explain.
Does it feel like ABS kicking in? Are your tires suitable for snow and rain?
Does it feel like ABS kicking in? Are your tires suitable for snow and rain?
I don't know, I think so for the ABS, yes the tires are a year old and they are all season. Just its hard to explain when its snowing especially when I could tap the breaks I feel like the brake pad is going to fall off or something. Its a rough brake. I feel it should feel as supportive as when I brake in dry weather. Its not like that at all. I don't know. I dont think its a grind, it may be from time to time I hear a squeak here and there but it goes away.
Last edited by mazdafan1892; 01-02-2018 at 06:48 AM.
I mean if it gets worse with worse traction conditions, then I'm inclined to think the problem is between the brake pad and the road. ABS has a pretty distinctive feel, its a rapid vibration/chatter in the brake pedal. If that's what you're feeling with a light brake application, it means your tires are not able to maintain proper traction in the conditions you're driving in. Depending on where you're located and how much snow you get, you may consider winter tires.
Otherwise, I don't think I'm understanding the feeling you're describing.
I have a question : I have a 2004 dredded series one automatic and it is time to change the starter and I have read the posts on starter change for dummies and it was very good but it was aimed at the manual not the automatic. My question is how many teeth did the OEM starter on a 2004 rx8 have and what was the KW count and the HP.I can not afford a Mazda $450 starter so I went to Advanced auto and found a starter with 18 teeth ,2.0 KW and 2.62 Horse power and I am trying to know if this is a up grade from the O)EM starter or just a OEM reman?. There are a lot of folks selling OEM reman's and the OEM starter I think is either 1.4 or 1.8 KW ?. Just want to ask how many teeth did the OEM starter have and what was the KW and HP numbers so I can kmnow the starter I have in hand is an up grade or take it back. Automatic's are not too popular here and so far all the threads address manual trans not the automatic's. The other issue is that there is no way to compare the OEM automatic starter and no what your buying unless you can afford to pay $400 plus bucks so if you like me can not afford the premium starter and have to buy at advanced auto or the like , they remove all OEM stickers so you can not tell what the reman starter was originally. Thank you for any help.
This is the new OEM Series 2 starter from Mitsubishi that is a direct fit for all 2004-2011 RX8s. 14 teeth. (new, not refurbished) I have one in my Series 1 RX8. Got it from Walmart at this great price.
I've been premixing 150ml/5 ounces of 2 stroke Idemitsu JASO FC(no FD in my country yet) everytime i fill up 30liters/8 galons of 98octane fuel.
My questions are :
1. i've been wondering if premixing would affect the fuel filter(as in clog it)?
2. Am i doing this right?
Thanks alot!
I don't think it will cause any issues with the fuel filters. Lots of people have been premixing with good 2-stroke here for a while now without trouble.
The recommended concentration for normal driving conditions is about 1 ounce per 2 gallons of gas. With a bit of math, it translates to about 4 mL per litre of gas to the rest of the world. Your concentration of 5 mL per litre is fine. If you AutoX or track, you can crank it up to 8 mL per litre.
I don't think it will cause any issues with the fuel filters. Lots of people have been premixing with good 2-stroke here for a while now without trouble.
The recommended concentration for normal driving conditions is about 1 ounce per 2 gallons of gas. With a bit of math, it translates to about 4 mL per litre of gas to the rest of the world. Your concentration of 5 mL per litre is fine. If you AutoX or track, you can crank it up to 8 mL per litre.
Hey guys hoping I can get some help here. Been a long time lurker (think several years). Well, my S2 R3 needed an engine reman (done by the dealership) and I took a look under the hood. This nozzle looks like it's missing a plug. Should I be concerned?
12-31-2017, 06:53 PM
