toniok

I picked up an S2 which had it's stereo replaced with an aftermarket radio, and I've got some questions about the steering wheel controls and the LED dash display.

None of the stereo controls buttons on the steering wheel work, other than the 'mode' button which just causes the LED display to display 'source' for a brief moment, and same with the arrows which cause the display to show 'track' for a second.

What should the 'mode' button actually do?

Are there aftermarket radios which can interface with the buttons to get volume and track controls to work properly?

How do I set the LED clock time?

When someone sits in the front passenger seat, the display shows 'passenger airbag off'. How is the passenger airbag enabled/disabled?

Thanks in advance for any pointers.

wannawankel

Plenty of DIY radio threads (found with Google search) on this:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-int...y-bose-187501/

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-int...to-rx8-222616/

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-int...-first-226065/

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-int...-radio-192377/

https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...ntrols-260028/

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-int...ra-kit-162424/

UnknownJinX

My stock unit w/Nav have the mode button cycle through FM1-FM2-AM-XM1-XM2-XM3-OFF in this order.

As for passenger airbag, it's supposed to display it's off when you have some weight that's not as heavy as an adult on the seat. The idea is that if someone is stupid enough to let a kid sit in the front, they won't get injured by the airbag in an accident(they are not tall enough for the airbag work properly). Maybe check the weight sensor below the seat.

toniok

wannawankel: Thank you!

UnknownJinX: Well I had a 100lb person on the front seat, so I'm guessing the sensor either needs more weight - or as you said the sensor is bad. I can test that. Most importantly, I wasn't missing a switch somewhere that turns it on/off. Thanks!

skyhighclaw

Hey everyone, i have a dumb question,

Looks like I'm approaching the time for a rebuild fairly soon so I have to ask a dumb question. what is a difference between the "rebuild kit a b" and master kit? if my only issue is low compression do i need to invest in a master kit? or would something like rebuild kit a and the apex seals be sufficient?

Thanks!

UnknownJinX

The threshold is 30kg/66lb per my S2 Owner's Manual, so I would have the weight sensor looked at.

Which shop are you talking about here?

Supposedly, Mazda reman is pretty good nowadays as well, and if you are not building/modding your car, Mazda reman has pretty good value.

mazdafan1892

Hey guys, I had a few more questions regarding my Rx8. So..this is weird but when you drive it everyday you can notice it. I feel like when I am driving I hear a vibrating sound coming from my car. Sometimes it comes from the steering wheel but I noticed recently it may be from elsewhere. It seems it only comes on when the car is in drive and I stop at a light. It doesn't come on when I am in motion and it goes away when I shift to park last night in front of my drive way. I dont know if its the transmission. The vibration sounds like a fuel injector going up and down. I just had the engine mounts replaced. The other thing is when I turn on the fan for heat the fan makes a sound like there is old leaves in there or something but I dont think that is the case. I think the fan may need to be replaced. Anyone else noticed to get the Rx8 to release its power you have to wind it out close to redline a few times then if you tap the gas its more sensitive to accelerating around 3-4k rpm? Otherwise its kinda slow? Is this car known for having a strong chassis? Its winter and coming home from work in the dark I cannot see to dodge all the potholes. Some of them are brutal but the car holds up well. A few times I was worried if any damage was done to the car's axle. Lastly getting gas does your gas cap just hang down? Mine I was able to rest it once inside the well where one puts the gas but most the time I can't, just curious. Sorry for this being long. Thanks guys.

IamFodi

iTrader: (1)

Quick tip: When you have a bunch of questions, put them in a list instead of a paragraph.

E.g.:

It's still a lot, but it's so much easier to read.


Some answers:

- Probably need a video of the vibration.

- Only way to check for debris near the fan is to look. But blower motors do wear out. Could happen in any car.

- Not sure what you're talking about with the acceleration thing, but I can see that happening. If your normal driving is mild, you could have carbon buildup that goes away when you wind it out. Or it could just be the placebo effect; hearing your engine wail near redline makes you think it's faster the next time you tip the throttle in. These engines also do sometimes hesitate on throttle tip-in somewhere between 3k and 4.5k, so maybe that's what you're experiencing as sensitivity. Either way, if the car feels slow below like 4k, that's because it is.

- Yes, the chassis is really strong. That's one thing that's truly world class about this car. It's stiffer than many supercars of the same age. Not sure about the suspension though, so you might want to have your alignment and dampers checked at the end of the season.

- On my S2 there's a hook to the right of the filler that the cap tether is just long enough to reach. It's awkward but it works. I'm sure you can find a pic somewhere. Not sure if the S1 has the same thing.

Okki-Jakarta

Do all rx8 come with LSD?

40w8

Mazdafan1892,

Yes, gently lean gas cap against car.

Your auto trans can vibrate car when idling in gear with foot on brake. If really loud, it is twisting drive train to rattle exhaust shield; doesn't hurt car, just your feelings.

Take out glove box and dump out inside air filter which can have leaves and sand.

Get some 2 cycle premix and put 1/2 oz for every gallon gas.

Everytime you drive hold gas to floor, and run it to 7k rpm at least once, after warmed up, and then drive easier for 5 minutes before shut off.

UnknownJinX

When I had my Accord Coupe V6 with an automatic, whenever the transmission starts to feel rough and vibrate at a stop light in D, I change the fluid out. If you haven't done that on your 8, I'd change the auto tranny fluid. If it's okay on Mazdas(important to check; Hondas, do example, hate ATF flush), do a flush.

The car doesn't have a lot of low-end, and that's why it's a bit of a slug below 4k RPM. Once you get to 4k RPM, you should get instant response.

For anyone who wants a solution to our gas cap problem(that I don't have on my Accord or Corolla), BennettBuilt has a gas cap holder that bolts onto our gas caps. Takes 5 minutes to install and works like a charm on my 8.

https://www.bennettbuilt.net/products/gas-cap-mount

Drekko

Hi

My GF is having issues with her 2010 Series 2 Rx8

The main issue is engine light and running like crap and very rough on cold start only. Grey smoke also is coming out of the exhause but have to check this again as it may only been that one time when it got flooded.
Once engine warms up it runs fine and normal

Now first I want to say the car was running ok before I took it to a Mazda Dealership. The reason I took it there is because I had an engine light that kept coming on. From personal observation when starting the car it would make a high pitch noise when cold then sound ok when warm. Things started going downhill from there

I have the mechanic invoices right here and I will tell you everything they have done or apparently have done:

Local Mazda Dealer Ship service centre:
Carried out M-MDS Scan and found fault code relating to air circuit malfunction (P0410-FF-PCM). Carried out inspection as per chart and found secondary injection solenoids faulty x 3 and vacuum valve. Recommend replacing and re-inspecting

( when speaking to them verbally though, they told me they "think" its the pump or the solenoids so they were not 100% sure )
$150

Local Mazda Dealer Ship service centre:
Check Engine light on. Removed manifold % replaced x 3 solenoids as required. Cleared codes and road tested and found all ok ( would of been warm obviously )
Note - if engine light returns vehicle will require rebooking due to our workshop not diagnosing original concern.... (again guess work)
Parts replaced:
valve, solenoid
valve check
Gasket in Manifold
Gasket no 2 in Manifold
$1025

Take it home, engine light comes on, runs like **** on cold start now....

Local Mazda Dealer ship service centre:
Inspected vehicle for engine light on
Removed exhaust and repaired exhaust bolts x 2 ( wtf has this got to do with my issues? )
Inpsected and found air pump fuse blown
Requires new fuse and re-inspect air pump
Found air pump to be noisy ( original problem before taking it to mazda in the first place)
Removed and replaced air pump and fuse
Tested all ok
$758


Picked the car up, took it home, again engine light on and car runs like **** on cold start

I took it back there and spoke to the manager and at this point I was pretty upset. They told me it could need coils if you have not changed them or it might need an engine re-build

They replaced the coils and told me the car is fine come pick it up. I told them I am not going to pay you more money on your guess work I will test the car myself for a few days and start it the next morning and see how it runs. Sure enough the next morning the car still started like **** untill warm ( grey to white smoke now coming out of exhaust untill car is warm)

Now that is a summary of my pain. I spoke to a few friends who are car savvy and they told me to check and replace my spark plugs. I guess I can start with that but from what you guys have just read can I do anything else that is simple and easy to check and test?

By the way I cannot post anywhere else or make a new thread can an administrator help with that please? I would of made a new post in the Rx8 Discussion but I am unable to

mazdafan1892

Thanks for the reply I attached a video to further clarify. Me shifting from Park to Drive twice. The sound comes in when I am in drive. Thanks again.

mazdafan1892

Just saw it said my file is 5.41 mb and the limit is 5 mb. Sigh.

mazdafan1892

Finally

https://streamable.com/plhwf

UnknownJinX

I think you need more posts to post outside of New Member section.

How thick is the smoke? Is there any coolant loss?

If I would have to test anything, I'd definitely check the ignition, if you have rough cold starts. When were the spark plugs last replaced? Have you checked with a spark tester?

Battery good? Any parasitic draw when the car is off?

I have driven a handful of AT and some of them do vibrate a bit when idling. The worst I had was actually the 2016 Jetta TSI 6AT. When it started moving, the vibration goes away. Car drives completely fine.

Again, when was the fluid last replaced? Transmission fluid makes a difference in my experience. Old and burnt fluid does all sorts of crap.

mazdafan1892

I had the engine replaced by the dealership like 2 years ago or less than 2 years ago and they said they replaced the tranny oil at that time. I recently had a little added since as it dipped a little. But I havent had it changed cause they told me it was changed at that time and then I heard about the possibility of slippage.

Smyq

Hi everyone

I'm a new member to this forum and don't really know where to start. I apologize in advance if my post is in the wrong place.

So I didn't use my RX8 for good or even over 3 weeks. Last time when I stopped an engine it was warm. Sometimes the car had issues starting up when warm...normally second or third attempt did the job. I found an info that cleaning and greasing starter motor might boost it's RPM slightly which should help to solve hot start issue. My bad I didn't try to start the car after those 3 weeks without any use as I didn't want to warm it up before removing the starter motor so I can't really say if the car would start anyway. At the moment I'm in a position when my Mazda doesn't start at all an I run out of ideas what else I could do.

When I put the clean starter motor (N3Z1) back in and tried to start the engine the car battery was flat and had no power to turned over. I plugged it into the other car and let it recharge for nearly 30 mins. I tried to start it once again, the starter motor was going like mad but the engine didn't even sound like to start. I was looking for a solution and I came across de-flooding procedure as follow: battery plugged into another running car, disconnected air pump, depressed clutch and accelerator, 10 sec cranking, 60 sec cooling and I repeated it for about 12 times. It was cranking, a bit of white smoke came out of the exhaust and that was it. I had this feeling like there is something missing to start the engine. I checked all fuses in case any fuse is blown (all were fine apart from lighter one), fuel pump seems to work normally (it does make the sound when ignition on and feels like working when touched by hand), I removed all spark plugs as a next attempt and I would say they were very dirty so I cleaned them nicely. Before I put them back in I cranked about 5 times to allow all fuel splutter from the combustion chamber - nothing came out really. I put them back in and tried to crank as before for about 12 times and still nothing. I checked the spark plugs again and this time they were a bit wet but nice and clean. I dried them and gave it another go but still without any luck. I'm afraid to try bump start it or pull by another car. I've got this feeling there is no spark to start the engine. I could buy another set of plugs (but my girlfriend said they were changed about the year ago and she only covered about 7000 miles) but they quite pricey and if it won't help to start...well I will simply waste about 100 pounds.

Guys if you have any ideas what it could be or perhaps I'm doing something wrong please let me know as it doesn't let me sleep. I'm constantly thinking what is wrong with it. I will be much appreciated for any help. Thanks in advance!!

wannawankel

A strong battery and clean battery connections are a must including ground (earth) points. In addition depending on age, care, and miles you'll need:


30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

wannawankel

If you are having fuel pump issues:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-maj...-modes-176491/

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...ioning-203407/

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...l-pump-244542/

UnknownJinX

What's the fluid color like? If you have enough miles, it could be due for a change.

Which year RX-8 is it?

Early RX-8s have weak starter. You can upgrade to a 06+ S1 starter, or an S2 starter.

If you have an OBD2 that can read live data, depress the gas pedal and start cranking. You can read the live RPM to know the cranking RPM.

Since you are new, you should read the New Owner sticky. One well-known weak point for out cars is the ignition coils. Get a spark tester and check the sparks the ignition coils are giving out. Get OEM revision C coils.

mazdafan1892

Reddish, 80k millage. The dealership mentioned they changed it around 60k mi. I dont know maybe I am being paranoid?

B. Dean Creech

My 04 rx8 is not getting fire on second coil pack, even after it was all replaced w/New coils and wires, I still had no fire. So, is there an ignition control module upgrade that would make sense? Or is standard ECM best?

Dark.

Question, ( I have an S2) Is there a difference in the front Windshield between the S1 and S2. Trying to get a replacement and want to make sure I get the right one. For whatever reason when I call they can't verify that whatever glass they have will fit the 8. I've let them know its a S2 and year.

Reoze

I was driving to work today and noticed a bit of smoke out of the back of my car on the highway, which was pretty unusual but stopped after I was cruising. About 10 minutes later I tried redlining it in 1st from a stoplight.

At around 6-7k RPM the power dropped off instantly to the point where it jerked me forward in my seat. I looked out the back window and had a decent cloud of black smoke coming out of, as well as into the car.

I tried reproducing the issue on the way home and had no luck. Compression came in around 7.5 about 2 months ago with no large variation between faces or rotors. Which was largely the same as it was a year ago.

To me this sounds like the APV not opening correctly or an ignition issue of some kind. Are there any other common causes for something like this that I should look in to while I've got it on a lift tomorrow? Could a bad O2 sensor cause such a drastic power loss?