I haven't heard it referred to as a common problem like the usual broken visors, foggy taillights, etc.

 

I have a 2006 mazda rx8 and it ran yesterday and now it wont start could it be the fuel relay thought i would ask before screwing with it

 

Could be many things.

Read this and report back
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...t-here-222584/

 

Any more info? Any running issues lately? Whats your ignition system condition like? mileage? have you flooded it?............

 

actually its none of them it cranks but wont turn over that is why it thought it was the fuel relay

 

it wasnt flooded, it was running fine the day before, ignition was fine the day before, it has 91,000 miles and was rebuilt at 71,xxx miles, it cranks but wont turn over

 

I got the same legal notice. yes it is for damage to the value of the car and for driving with the risk with damaged parts. I filled out claim . Couldn't hurt if there is some damage award. If no award, no harm. I have actually gotten legitimate awards from other class-action suits in the past. Hundreds of dollars in some cases. I wouldn't throw it away. I filed claim over the phone at number listed on the notice. They already have your name and address, they just ask a few verification questions.

 

That's normal.

 

How do you know it's none of those? Have you verified each part? Or are you making assumptions?

 

I'm bumping this issue because I just rebuilt the whole thing for the 3rd or 4th time now and I am thoroughly stumped as to what is causing my steering to knock. I took the whole caliper off, both sides. Only right side is making noise. Rebuilt the caliper, recleaning all the parts, I believe the pins are in the correct spots. But to be sure, the pin with the sleeve goes on the bottom, correct? Because the pins are currently in that position and that is what Mazda diagrams show.

I will note that the right side rotor felt a touch loose after I removed the wheel this time. So this time, I used an impact driver to screw in the retainer screws and hold the rotor on. Then tightened everything, put the wheel back, torqued wheels to 100 lbs., still knocking.

Could this be my whole hub? How could that have gotten loose/damaged? Any ideas what is causing this? It is driving me nuts and I'm tired of rebuilding this caliper.

 

Here is a video.

The knocking is now heard hitting bumps. Wasn't doing that with the last drive, is now. Is this an end-link problem? If so, how did I break/loosen that by changing out rotors? https://streamable.com/8w7u2

 

Edit: Just realized the big knock at the end is hard to hear over dash panel rattle. But nearly towards the end, you can hear it very clearly.

 

Unless you left something very loose...I doubt that you will get a knock from a brake caliper. They can grind or rattle...but a true knock is unlikely. Especially with bumps

Check the suspension. End links/brackets. There is a lower control arm/ball joint recall. Also check the hub/bearing for play.

What did you remove or loosen to do the work?

 

I had to use a rubber mallet, but not going to lie, had to hit the hell out of it. It was stuck on there pretty good.

Ok, if it is the end links, I was planning on replacing them soon, so I won't worry about it. But if it is the wheel hub, is there a recommended upgrade? Or stick with Mazda OEM? Good place to buy from?

Does the 06 have the ability to check on a bad wheel hub via OBD II reader?

It is definitely making noise under sudden shock, like hitting a bump or pothole. It is very loud when hitting holes, it is just slightly loud when moving right to left. I wacked away at the joints, hub, and end links with the wheel off, but I jacked up the control arm to load the suspension a bit. The only thing I can get to make some kind of noise when I hit it is the tie rod, but it doesn't quite sound the same. But I would assume having the weight of the car on it would change the sound. Could this be the issue?

 

Hey guys I'm looking to buy a Mazda RX-8. The one I'm looking is a little pricey what should I look for when I'm buying it to bring down the price. Please help me

 

So I have distilled (battery) water bottles that I bought back in 2015. Turns out they expired last year. Can I still use them when changing coolant?

 

Sure, if they are still sealed they'll be fine.

 

If i is over priced, talk them down. Explain to them the value using local search results off craigslist, true car, kbb, etc.

When I bought mine, the rear control arms were broken and I made them fix it first. This probably meant the car was abused, so I checked the engine. Checked the plugs (bring some tools), and started the car. If it smokes after the vehicle is warmed up, has bad idle, or vibrating excessively (rotaries are super smooth) you are probably looking at a problem. Ask/check to see if the coils are new. They go bad around 40-50k miles. Mine actually went bad at 39. I bought some black halo racing ones and they were badass.

Other than that, the only other problems I've had with my car are problems I caused from racing it, or accidentally doing something wrong, like replacing brake rotors and suddenly getting a knock in the suspension. I also replaced my radiator to a better one. But that was just personal preference since I live in Nevada and it is hot here in the summer and the fans were on 100% of the time with the old radiator. Now they are on like 30% of the time while I'm in standing traffic or sitting there at race events with the car on.

I'm not a mechanic, though. Others may want to chime in with some input. I was just giving you my experience.

 

Thanks! I have some opened bottles too. I guess they're not gonna cut it?

 

LOL....it's water. Unless it's contaminated it is perfectly fine. Some areas tap water will work fine as well. Some places tap water is horrid

 

Good advice, but oem coils can go bad sooner and are recommended to be changed by 20-30k miles .

RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.

 

That's just cover their *** stuff.

I think it could be used for almost forever in engine even if opened.

Now if something gets into it, and it forms some scum from bacteria, then, no.

Bacteria control could be needed in some systems where the water wasn't getting hot enough, but cars run too hot.

 

Thank you so much guys. My bad. The expiry date kinda scared me.

 

I had a knock when going over bumps or turning the wheels all the way to the sides. I don't remember exactly, but it was some bolt of the control arm that was under-torqued and was letting that side rattle.

 

Thanks, I'll take a look at that in a bit.