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Old 09-05-2011, 12:59 PM   #1
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Starting Issues? START HERE.

Alright, so to follow in line with my “Misfire Issues” thread, I am creating this one for “Starting Issues”. There have been and still are many threads being created because people are having issues starting their vehicle. Instead of telling most people to just Search, I figured this method would help ease down the amount of threads being created.

This thread will follow the same guideline as my last one - I will post possible issues, and possible ways to fix those particular issues. Also, again, if anyone has anything they would like me to Add or Edit, please just comment below or PM me and I will get on it. I am making up this thread fairly quickly, and will most likely miss a few things.

Anyways, lets get started. For all you suffering from hard or long starts, read the following information to attempt to diagnose / fix your starting issue. I will include DIY’s on as many topics as possible.

Issue #1: Bad Connections on Battery
It is amazing how easy it is to get bad connections and never really think of it. You can get a bad connection on your battery from loose ends, corrosion, or wrecked ends. To check if they are loose, simply wiggle remove the battery cover and try to wiggle the connections. If you can, they are loose. Also, visibly inspect them for corrosion (Generally white or even a greenish color of dust-like material built up on the connections). To add, visibly inspect them for damage, such as cracked, wires loose/detached from end, etc.

Solution #1: Tighten, Clean, Repair and Replace
If your connections are loose, tighten them. Easy as that. But, before doing this, I would still recommend taking them off anyways and cleaning them with a wire brush. If you have corrosion on the ends, take them off and clean them thoroughly with a wire brush, on the terminal (Part on battery) itself, and also on the connection itself (Part that goes onto battery). Be careful though, as that white/green/blue build-up you may see is battery acid. A little bit of baking soda/water will help neutralize it so you can safely clean it.

If you find that they are in bad condition, wires are loose on the ends (Or off), then replace the ends.

Links (DIY’s):
To clean the battery posts, click the link below:
http://www.howtocleanstuff.net/how-t...ery-terminals/

To clean and replace ends, click this link:
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/car...ry-terminals#b

Problem #2: Bad Battery
Batteries don’t last forever, but they should last a few good years. If by chance your battery has run its life cycle (Or faulty for some reason), it is time to make sure that it is really dead. Pretty easy to do - Just take a multimeter and test the battery to make sure it has around 14-14.3 volts (Link / DIY below). This will tell you that your battery may be dead, or it could be telling you that your alternator is not producing the required amount of charge.

Solution #2: Change the Battery
If your battery is bad, simply buy another one and swap it out.

Links (DIY’s):
To check the battery for voltage, click the link below:
http://www.ehow.com/video_2319935_test-car-battery-multimeter.html
To replace the battery, click the link below:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/their-diy-battery-change-193195/

Problem #3: Old / Bad Starter
Your starter may be not be the updated version, or it could not be functioning anymore as it should be. This could be because the starter motor is going too slow to start up the engine. It is hard to test the starter, so I really have no insight on this unfortunately (Anyone have idea’s here?) I will include a link below to test the starter motor, but I cannot include a DIY on removing the starter, as I could not find one.

I will include a link below in which Brettus here demonstrates the old starter and the updated starters, via video. Check them out in the Links section below.

Solution #3: Replace
If your starter is the old version (Go to the dealership to get this checked out), then you will want to upgrade to the newer starter. It will crank at faster RPMs and be stronger in general. If you already have the upgraded starter, it may need replacing. Going to the dealership to check the starter motor would be a great start if you aren’t very “handy” with cars.

Links (DIY’s):
To see the videos of bad-to-upgraded starter, click this link:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/hard-starting-suspect-your-starter-motor-check-out-207244/

To test the starter motor, click here:
http://www.carbasics.co.uk/how_to_te...rter_motor.htm

Problem #4: Bad Alternator
If you have a bad alternator, and it is not properly charging your battery, then starting it will be quite the task. Actually, it won’t happen. You may also notice that while driving the car is not running or staying running properly. You can check the voltage output in two ways - Check your battery to see what kind of voltage it is getting with the multimeter (DIY in Problem #2’s Links), and you can also check the alternator itself, which is the better idea of the two. I will include a DIY on how to do this below.

Solution #4: Replace
If your alternator is bad, the only real option you have is to replace it. You could get it rebuilt, but generally replacing it can be just as cheap. Go to a dealership or buy your own and install it. You can replace it on your own as well, but if you are not good with car’s, taking it to the dealership may be the best option.

Links (DIY’s):
To test the alternator, click the following links:
http://www.carbasics.co.uk/how_to_te...rter_motor.htm

Or


To replace the alternator yourself, click the link below:
http://www.ehow.com/how_2079783_repl...lternator.html

Or, for a description with pictures, click this link:
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-...An-Alternator/

Problem #5: Low Compression
Thats right! If your car is having Hot Start issues, whereas it is very hard to start when the engine is hot, you may be suffering from bad compression on one or both of the rotors. This really is the worst case scenario, but it is just as possible. The only real way to test for compression is to take it to the dealership and get a compression test done by them. They will tell you if you in fact are suffering from low compression.

Solution #5: Repair or Replace
Well, you have bad compression. Now you can rebuild the motor, buy a new one, or sell the car (Preferably fix it of course ). Those really are your only options when it comes down to low compression, so if you are a sufferer of this, good luck and have fun!

Links:
To see and hear what low compression may sound like when trying to start, click this link:

Problem/ IDEA #6: Plugs/Wires/Coils, and Catalytic Conveter
Now this one is a touchy subject IMO. Let me start by saying that if your CAT is gone/clogged, then you may have damaged your coils/plugs. Although this doesn’t directly relate to bad starting issues, if your plugs aren’t sparking, then your car isn’t starting! Click on the link in the Links section below, and read “Problem #1, Solution #1, the Links underneath it, as well as read the “Catalytic Converter” section and it’s links.

Solution #6: Gut, Replace, Etc.
Like I said, this one is touchy, but follow the Link below to help check over and replace the plugs, coils, wires, and Cat if necessary.

Links (DIY’s)
Please click the link below and read “Problem #1” and its sections, as well as the “Cat” section:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/suffering-misfire-start-here-222280/

Problem #7: Fuel Pump
When your fuel pump is on its way out, you can experience very hard starts. What I have done for this little section (as I am in a bit of a rush), is including a little blurp that RIWWP that had posted in a thread elsewhere:

"
Typically hard hot starts when cold starts are fine can be traced to either engine compression loss or fuel pump failure.

With compression loss, it is exactly what you noted, the housings expand more than the rotors when hot, which creates a bigger gap between the seals and the housing making compression plummet.

With a fuel pump failure, the fuel pump is too hot to pump, either partially or completely.


However, the very big difference between these two failure methods is more in how the engine shuts off and how soon you can re-fire it.

It's typically the fuel pump if:
- The engine shuts of by itself while running
- The shut off is abrupt with no RPM droop
- The shut off is usually under higher fuel demand points
- It is impossible to immediately refire, usually waiting about 20 minutes lets it fire right up

It's typically the engine compression if:
- The engine is shut off by the driver
- or if the engine shuts off by itself, it shuts off from idle with a slow drooping RPM loss until it stalls
- It is possible to get it refired within the next 5 minutes or so, even if with great difficulty
"

Fuel Pump Solution:
Please read above and diagnose; I will try getting some links and what not up here sooner than later.


Alright, so for now that is it folks. This was written up much quicker than my “Misfire” thread, but none the less I am hoping it will serve its purpose as a solid starting point for people who are having issues starting their vehicle. The Coils, Plugs, Wires and Cat section are merely things to check over, FYI.

If any of the vets or anyone in general have anything that I should be adding, removing, or editing, please just comment below and I will do so as necessary.

Last edited by FungsterRacing; 09-16-2013 at 11:24 PM. Reason: Added Fuel Pump (Credit to RIWWP for info)
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Old 09-05-2011, 01:06 PM   #2
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I'm in a rush, but on quick glance, it's looking good! Glad you have the time to make these sort of threads

Prob #5: hot starts- Not all compression issues have hot start issues. Could also be rough idle, bad mpg's, power issues, etc. The only way to test for compression is with a Rotary specific compression tool. People can purchase one. There are even members on this site that rent them out (NYCGPS for one).

Good start Fungster!
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Old 09-05-2011, 05:26 PM   #3
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Good thread, I only hope that new members find their way in this post rather than other threads.
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Old 09-13-2011, 10:02 AM   #4
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i have been having some problems with starting up(stutters kinda but always starts) and never really noticed a loss in power untill i lost to my friends tc. i have noticed 1st gear and 2nd gear are pretty slow. i beat his tc off the line but then he flew past me once i hit 2nd gear. so i am considering getting new ignotion coils but i dont want to take it to the dealership and get ripped of for new coils if thats not the problem. it is an 07' with 26k miles. how many coils are there, 4?
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:26 AM   #5
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yes, there are 4 coils.
Please, don't come into a thread and talk/ cry about loosing in a drag race. Especially if it's street racing...
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Old 09-13-2011, 11:30 AM   #6
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Might want to add that a faulty coolant seal can cause these symptoms as well. My latest failure was due to a faulty coolant seal that would leak into the combustion chamber when the engine cooled down. As a result, when you went to start it again, it would be a hard start and rough idle until it started to warm up.
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Old 09-14-2011, 06:46 PM   #7
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well i havent been having a rough idle or anything just stutters on the startup then its fine. are the coils something i would be able to change on my own? because this one guy said he changed them himself in 25 mins and saved like $275 from having the dealership do it.
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:23 PM   #8
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Great thread and thanks for taking the time to write it,
Here are a couple of things I would add.

Issue 1: after cleaning the battery terminals you should add a little bit of silicone grease to help ensure a good connection and prevent future corrosion.

Issue 2: If you make a lot of short journeys in your car the battery may not have enough time to recharge using a battery charger at home, you can trickle charge the battery overnight which will usually give new life to the battery.
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:25 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crazy.8 View Post
well i havent been having a rough idle or anything just stutters on the startup then its fine. are the coils something i would be able to change on my own? because this one guy said he changed them himself in 25 mins and saved like $275 from having the dealership do it.
search the diy section.
Why must you always ask to be spoon fed? There are even links in the original post to help you
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Old 09-14-2011, 07:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8 View Post
Might want to add that a faulty coolant seal can cause these symptoms as well. My latest failure was due to a faulty coolant seal that would leak into the combustion chamber when the engine cooled down. As a result, when you went to start it again, it would be a hard start and rough idle until it started to warm up.
I will be sure to add this in, thanks 9k

Quote:
Originally Posted by wrightcomputing View Post
Great thread and thanks for taking the time to write it,
Here are a couple of things I would add.

Issue 1: after cleaning the battery terminals you should add a little bit of silicone grease to help ensure a good connection and prevent future corrosion.

Issue 2: If you make a lot of short journeys in your car the battery may not have enough time to recharge using a battery charger at home, you can trickle charge the battery overnight which will usually give new life to the battery.
I will look more into this and add what I can for sure

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Originally Posted by RX8Soldier View Post
search the diy section.
Why must you always ask to be spoon fed? There are even links in the original post to help you
Exactly....
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Old 11-03-2011, 08:20 PM   #11
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Bump. Lots of "Hard Start" threads lol
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Old 11-05-2011, 04:39 PM   #12
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Hey 9k mentioned coolant seal. I'm thinking I'm having this problem. I get alot of white smoke coming from the exhuast at a cool start up and yes hard to start. Which seal would this be? I've even noticed it on the oil dip stick. I added about 4 ounces of water to the tank at about 300 miles.
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Old 11-06-2011, 03:10 PM   #13
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^ wrong thread to post your concern. Here, read through this instead... Rotor Misfire @ engine start only.

Have a shop do a coolant system pressure test, you can also get your oil analyzed for that gunk mixed in the dipstick.
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:50 PM   #14
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Ok I really like that you did this, I'm having problems with my car starting, but none of these sound like the problem. My car will start no problem hot. It only has problems in cold weather I'm in OK and we have had some 19 degree nights and when I go to start my car for work it will crank but not start? But when it was up to around 40 degrees my car starts right up. I'm completely confused on what to do. Mazda replaced all main parts on my motor 2 months ago because of bad compression and I redline it to keep carbon from building up. I really need some help on this, winter is almost here and I need my car running.
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:58 PM   #15
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what exactly did the dealer replace, 2 months ago?
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:22 PM   #16
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They replaced apex seals and rotors.
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:29 PM   #17
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They replaced apex seals and rotors.
According to this thread, what have you checked off of the list, in order to diagnose (number's 1-6)?
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:58 PM   #18
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Yes I've checked everything off. Mazda told me my starter was fine. I have an 04 AT. And the car runs perfect when it runs. Just won't start in cold weather. I do have straight pipes and I've wondered if having no mufflers would cause not enough back pressure on the engine, and not holding warm air in the cat for it to warm up?
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Old 12-14-2011, 10:00 AM   #19
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Update: I called Mazda and they told me the car is flooded. He said it could be due to a bad spark plug or coils. He gave me free towing, and the deflooding is covered till 100,000 miles. Looks good for me now. Should get the car back today.
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Old 01-12-2012, 09:28 PM   #20
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Alright guys well i invested in me a diagnostic tool scan my pcm having this rx8 for 2years im tired of going up to auto zone, after running it i got codes: P2070, P0302, P0420, and p0704. After doing lots of research going in n out of threads i see Intake Manifold tuning valve stuck open bank 1 is what is malfunctioning so ima pull that and clean it following a thread i found. I also found from code P0302 that i have a Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected, i believe that is a result of me having a bad ignition #2 coil is what the tool is saying, to cure this i will buy the BHR ignition kit, yes overkill but ive been eying it on here for a while that that Charles guy is selling because i been needing to change my wires and coils anyways, it seems to make a big difference so i will invest in it, if anyone have any info or suggestions on it speak up im still learning so im ALL EARS! Based off what ive said if u got anything else to help out it'll b greatly appreciated seeing that i cant drive for 10 to 15 miles without it killin on me and fouling the plugs and having a etremly hard time cranking up! Wish me luck my 8 is too clean to b sittin in the garrage

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Old 01-21-2012, 11:21 AM   #21
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Good luck ( chillinrard )
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Old 02-21-2012, 12:38 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RX8Soldier View Post
I'm in a rush, but on quick glance, it's looking good! Glad you have the time to make these sort of threads

Prob #5: hot starts- Not all compression issues have hot start issues. Could also be rough idle, bad mpg's, power issues, etc. The only way to test for compression is with a Rotary specific compression tool. People can purchase one. There are even members on this site that rent them out (NYCGPS for one).

Good start Fungster!
how did you specifically identify the issue being the coolant sealant?
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:01 PM   #23
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how did you specifically identify the issue being the coolant sealant?
Remove spark plugs, and perform a pressure test on the cooling system.

When you pressurize the cooling system, it will force coolant past the damaged seal, hopefully into the rotor housing. You will see the cooling system pressure gauge on the tool lose pressure. If you're really lucky, that coolant makes its way to the spark plug.

You might want to slowly turn the engine by hand on the main pulley, to see if the coolant is building up in one of the combustion chambers of the rotor.

BC.
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:16 PM   #24
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This thread should be a sticky !
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:26 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Bladecutter View Post
Remove spark plugs, and perform a pressure test on the cooling system.

When you pressurize the cooling system, it will force coolant past the damaged seal, hopefully into the rotor housing. You will see the cooling system pressure gauge on the tool lose pressure. If you're really lucky, that coolant makes its way to the spark plug.

You might want to slowly turn the engine by hand on the main pulley, to see if the coolant is building up in one of the combustion chambers of the rotor.

BC.
I don't seem to be loosing any coolant or getting any white smoke from the exhaust, could this still be happening?
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