PleaseW84myRX8

An update on my knocking noise:

To recap, I rebuilt my calipers, put new rotors and pads on, and now I have a loud knock going over any bumps. It started in the front right, but now I get a small amount in the left side, too.

Took it to Les Schwab and they inspected everything while I got some other work done. Said my brake pads were too small for my calipers (stock calipers).

Took it to a repair shop to confirm that. They concluded they couldn't find what was making the knocking sound.

Both places said I did a perfect job.

The parts I used were:
Caliper Piston Rings Centric Parts 143.45006
Caliper Piston Rings Centric Parts 143.45022
Caliper Rebuild Kit Dorman HW13439 (the pin sleeve is about 3/4 the size as the one that came off, could this be a problem/THE problem?)
Caliper Pins Dorman HW14137
Brake Rotors 126-45071SL, 126-45071SR, 126-45072SL, 126-45072SR
Brake Pads (Carbotech) CT1009-XP8 (Front), CT1008-AX6 (Rear)

When I put everything together, the pads seemed to fit fine, but as I drive the car each test, the noise gets worse and worse, and now, the noise is almost rattling constantly.

Is it the pads? I now notice a strange crunchy bite when I push on the brake, so it certainly is starting to feel that way. But I've never encountered pad size problems before, so I want to make sure.

Could it be the brake pad clips? Could I have installed those incorrectly? I believe they are in the correct place, but that is the only other thing I can think of at this point.

wannawankel

Only issue would be bacterial colonization of the water. Ethylene glycol levels in coolant above 20% nix that.

Soldier

How come I can't find any remote with Visteon 41783??

Nisaja

Thanks! Flushing the coolant today. I will use my old distilled water bottles

PleaseW84myRX8

Bumping my issue. I've called Carbotech and they suggest it could be the brake caliper clips being cheep metal and not enough tension. They even said I don't need all the shims and extra clips since they are track pads. But I shouldn't be experiencing the issue I am. So I was checking on the clips and found some places say I should be using 3 clips per side and some say I should be using 2. Some places then say I'm supposed to have a shim plate, others say I don't have one/need one. Called Mazda and the tech said I should have a total of 4 clips per corner on the fronts.

Can I get clarification here? I'm getting nowhere. How many clips should be on the front rotors? If I look at a parts manual, I see 4 clips per rotor, a shim plate on one side (I think that is correct?), and a dust cover plate on both sides, and some square piece (see pic attached). This seems legit, but why is there so much confusion?

Edit: Just found out the square piece is apparently a symbol for lubrication. I think I may have gotten the correct info now. Part I'm looking for is F1Y13329ZB.

mazdafan1892

These may be dumb questions but is it natural for the ventilation kit to sound like an oxygen tank after starting the car? I had one recently installed by my dealership and it sounds like mist or something is expelling. I think its a natural sound like I think part of its purpose is to remove any condensation from occurring.

The other few things I noticed is I need after market engine mounts. My mechanic will install I just gotta get them online. Not sure where to buy though.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

The clips are to stop the pads rattling around ...dunno if not having them would cause a loud knock though . If you don't have a clip at each end of each pad then do that .
What is the F1Y13329ZB part ? It's not in that pic diag. you posted . Also what is the sleeve you mentioned earlier, do you have a diagram showing that ?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Personally I would doubt it. Especially if it knocks without touching the brakes

I would go back to the suspension components and have another look. Sway bar bushings and end links...and upper and lower control arms and ball joints

PleaseW84myRX8

It is supposed to contain all of the brake caliper plates, clips, and shims.

Pic attached is the old and new. Silver with proper sized sleeve is old. New one has the shortened sleeve. I replaced the old pins, too, because they were getting a bit worn and one was really hard to get off from being stripped.

HighTideReset

Silly question coming right up.

How am I supposed to tune my car if the COBB Accessport can no longer be...accessed? I plan on picking up a BHR mid pipe and maybe a header, but I have read that I need to get tuned to make these modifications work. Send help

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

You do not NEED tuning to make those mods work, they will run perfectly fine with the stock tuning. A tune will however optimize your car for the best power gains (which isn't much on an N/A Renny).

There are other tuning options out there such as mazda edit, but COBB still works perfectly fine with the RX8 if you find one used (they just don't sell brand new Rx8 ones anymore).

Are you planning to tune yourself or have somebody else do it?

Reoze

I don't know if i'd say perfectly fine. I had to jump through some serious bullshit to get ATR to run on windows 10. Even then it doesn't completely work. I need to transfer the tunes over to my mac in order to put them on the AP.

I'm kind of kicking myself for not going with MazdaEdit.

PleaseW84myRX8

Not a tuner, but I too have had issues with Windows 10 for some older software. If you can't get yourself a free copy of Windows XP on a thumb drive, try linux. Format a 8+gig 3.0 USB thumb drive and install directly to that. Those really come in handy while trouble shooting hard drive problems and other technical stuff, too.

HighTideReset

I guess have someone else do it (don't want to break anything and don't have Win 7). If I could do it by myself, I'd be open to learning. I do want to get best power out of the modifications, however. Is Mazdaedit tough to work with?

Reoze

I have no issues getting a copy of windows XP running in a virtual machine with the USB passthrough setup the right way. My issue is the fact that this is what I would have to do in order to use the program properly. To say that is working perfectly fine is a big stretch.

Does it work out of the box? Sort of. Can you make it work? Sure. Are there better, more supported solutions out there? Seems so.

HighTideReset

What are the better more supported solutions other than Mazdaedit and COBB AP+MM's expertise?
When I pick up my midpipe and cat-back I would like to optimize very soon. Been looking and found not much so far.
I shall continue searching

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

I've had my COBB for so long I still run it on an old laptop with windows 7 so I guess I didn't think about that.

I do not use ATR myself either, I have someone who know what they are doing tune mine (I'm turbo though). Does the AP manager not work on windows 10 either, or just ATR?

And honestly Hightide, installing an exhaust is hardly tune-worthy, your gains might be 10-20whp with the parts installed and a tune and that's being very generous.

Williard

iTrader: (18)

I dont think any of the COBB software works on anything above Windows 7.

I have a laptop specifically for my car and only my car.(Windows 7) The only time it's online is when I'm doing tuning type stuff and things with Brettus. (because it's not secure)
Those are also the only type of software loaded on it. Anything related to tuning my car specifically and a list of parts and when they were installed.

if your having an issue with that, you can always find a cheap laptop on Fleabay or one of those fancy sell stuff sites.


Travis

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

The only mods I would recommend you need tuning for is intake or port work. Exhaust system would have to pretty magical to do anything that would require a tune .

IamFodi

iTrader: (1)

Header?

Reoze

Like I was saying before, with some hoop jumping you can in fact get ATR to run on windows 10. It's the drivers and installer that don't work all that well. If you disable driver signing in windows, decompress the installer, and install the drivers manually. You can in fact get the ATR installer to proceed far enough to be able to run the tuning program. The USB drivers do not work though, and anything that requires you to physically plug your cobb in is going to be non-functional.

So I use this, in combination with the AP Manager on my mac to create and transfer tunes to my AP.

Williard

iTrader: (18)

I'll just keep using my almost empty laptop with windows 7 specifically for tuning.

At least then all of my USB ports work.

I have windows 8 on another laptop and windows 10 on our desktop...

I prefer 7 honestly.

Travis

My method was quick... Purchase a cheap laptop with 7 loaded on it from fleabay. Check
Erase everything not needed from it and download my software.. Check

Start tuning with Brettus. Check

c86

Just got my car,(04, black, 6 speed, only 51k miles) Tuesday (9/5/17) and already want to put some spacers on it, i don"t really want to blow a bunch of cash on wheels rn and would rather run stocks for a while, i want to know what the brand of spacers are the best, safest and most affordable, and also what stud size. i can figure out sizing and such myself but any help is appreciated.

RotaryMachineRx

iTrader: (1)

Start Here:

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-whe...-flush-195496/

Reoze

My ODBII port is pretty much shot. I have to wiggle the connector around for about 10 minutes before I can get a signal. I've seen a few people mention issues with the odb port, but couldn't manage to find any solutions.

Is there a common cause of issues around the port in our cars? I'm trying to avoid having to replace the connector itself at this point.