It seems that Texas wins again. Guys without dash cracking are way up north with less ambient temps.

 

KCMO area, temps range from below 0 to over 100°
Stays outside in the sun for the most ​part.
I do use a fitted sunsreen in the warm months.
It spent a few years under my deck.

 

Folks, I dont doubt the folks that say they haven't had cracking yet, but we ALL know this is a REAL issue with RX8 around the world.

Temps, tinted glass, in and out of sun, garage storage, rough driving and more ALL are factors in whether you have a cracked dash or not. Mine lasted for 15 years before it cracked in my 2008 40th Anniversary Edition. I have never had tinted glass, I have driven it across the USA a few times, heat, cold and rough roads and all, winter and summer, in and out of sun, some garage, and triple digit temps for months in Texas heat have taken their toll finally on my dash. Now that I am living in the DFW area, I have mine taken care of by the great rotary mechanics at Rotary Performance in Garland, Texas. They see these cracked dash in RX8 of both Series One and Series Two models of different years and mileage.

There is no "cracked dash conspiracy" LOL. Just the reality for many of us. I will just get the passenger side dash replaced as my RX8 is now insured and valued as a Classic Car by State Farm (which owns Hagerty Insurance) for a full value of $50K with no depreciation. Fortunately the car was inspected by the underwriters before the dash cracked.

Congrats and best of luck to all those who haven't had their dash crack yet. My guess there was also some inconsistency within the foam materials used to form those dashes and some cars got better ones.

Cheers

 

Hey everyone, went to the rx8 sub Reddit and didn’t find a clear solution to the problem so I thought I’d ask here. Bought a brand new starter and for a day it started fine but the next day I could hear the starter spinning but the spring wasn’t releasing and engaging with the ring gear (new to cars so please if I have anything wrong I apologized) allowing the car to start. Battery is fine along with the brand new starter so the only real lead I have is the wire that connects to the 30 volt (or little metal piece on starter) isn’t getting power to activate that spring. What would the solution be? Just to completely replace that wire? If there’s anyone who might have info It would appreciated.

 

The small wire to the stater is for the solenoid. If you don't have a connection....... when you turn the key nothing happens.

It is possible that there is an issue with the solenoid on the starter... or the drive gear may be wrong.... if it doesn't mesh correctly with the ring gear on the flywheel it wont turn the engine over

You sure its correct part and installed correctly?

 

Hey everyone, not new to this forum but new to posting since I'm in the process of selling certain things off of my 8.

So I wanted to ask if anyone here has experience with "remanufactured engines" in recent years. I know in the past they were bad, but I am considering buying one from Atkins rotary I'm not sure if there is a difference. I believe they put it together.

 

Depends on who did the remanufacturing Most engines are replaced with a reman at the end of their life, there's not a ton of alternatives. A long time ago Mazda outsourced their rebuilding for North America to someone else, and those were not great, but that was a very long time ago. An rebuilt engine from a professional rebuilder (I suppose like Atkins, don't have personal experience with them) should be reliable. Good go to names here are RotaryResurrection, Pettit, Pineapple Racing, I'm sure there are others.

 

I believe Mazda sells "New" engines now. I was supposed to pick one up but they sold it a few days before I could get one it was like 8k.

Atkins did the rebuild because the person on the phone was able to tell me what seals they used and the condition of the housings.

Also, I tried the shops you mentioned but none of them had blocks that were ready to go. I had a problem with a shop and had to wait over a year for a built engine and didn't wanna do that again.

 

Interesting about the shops being out of engines. Yes Mazda restarted the 6-port Renesis line at some point.

 

Hi there, I have been reading these forums for a while and am a novice mechanic working on his own 8.

1) Can I start my own thread? How, or why not?

2) Fast forward to now, I've been hastily and foolishly tearing down my engine in search of an oil leak. I pulled out the rear stationary gear.Not because of any real, conclusive evidence of an oil leak from there. I simply removed it because I was curious what was behind it. SHOULD NOT HAVE DONE THAT, now I can't get the gear back in and am afraid I'm going to need a full rebuild in order to get this re-installed properly.

​​​​​As if that wasn't stupid enough, in more hasty effort , I had my friend rotate the ECC shaft pulley to see if the movement would get the gear to slide in. The engine began to seize...

My intuition tells me I'm FXCKD and that I got way in over my head, multiple times. Does anyone have some explanations or answers?? My car is on the lift at my workplace and I need to get it back together ASAP, if possible.



Edit: had to remove the serpentine belts, they were pulling on the ECC shaft. Went back in perfectly afterwards
​​​​​​

 

Good lesson: never, ever, ever tear into an engine unless you have at least some idea how to get it back together correctly. Don't be fooled by how easy a lot of other stuff on the car is (brakes, suspension, interior, etc.). In an engine, beyond everything just fitting together, there's a lot of stuff that has to fit in just the right way, with or without lube, with exacting torque specs on the fasteners, etc. etc., or it'll bite you.

 

Yeah but what I was told by parts was that they don't stock many. The next time they were going to get more to the U.S. was January.

 

Yeah but what I was told by parts was that they don't stock many. The next time they were going to get more to the U.S. was January.

 

Worse comes to worse, if you have an S2, I might be able to get one for you.

 

Thanks for the offer

 

That's clear to me, what isn't clear is why it fell out of place before the attempt to move it. Is this inevitable any time the stationary gear is removed from an assembled engine?

 

You can start your own thread any time in the New Member section. After 30 days and 10 posts you can start threads anywhere. This was in the forum rules when you signed up. The mods are nice sometimes and will move your New Member post.

First, read this if you haven't already https://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/R...p%20Manual.pdf

You removed all support for the eccentric shaft at one end while the engine is horizontal, and then tried to turn it. The rotating assembly settled under the unsupported weight and then started to bind. You might be able to get away by getting the engine out of the car and vertical, the way it's meant to be assembled, and not do a full teardown.... but no promises.

 

I'm really new here I actually don't really know how to post but I was wondering if anyone could help me out with a question.. I'm looking to buy a new clutch kit but I'm finding them a lot more expensive than when I was looking for one before.
Do y'all know if there are any other cars I can search for that have a matching clutch kit to the RX8 (2005)?
I know if I go somewhere like Atkins rotary I can find one immediately but I feel like I'm getting a hefty rotary tax and I don't want to go with the AutoZone brand one. I'm pretty handy with tools and swapping out stuff but understanding specifications and whatnot I don't do very well with.

 

Get it from Mazda, you can't go wrong.

 

Has anyone here bought parts from this IG account?
Do you know if they’re a scammer or not?

https://instagram.com/gibbons_serge?...RlODBiNWFlZA==

 

Pro tip, dont buy the autozone clutch. For one it is dummy expensive compared to something like the exedy replacement clutch kit. Two, the autozone duralast one doesn't like high rpm...... ask me how I know.

Or just buy the actual replacement from mazda and you will not have issues.

 

Good rule of thumb: The more work it takes to replace something (or the more likely it is that it'll take something else with it if it fails), the more you want the OE part.

Exceptions:

1. When the OE part absolutely won't do what you want it to do, AND if there's an aftermarket part that'll do the job, AND if you're willing to accept the downsides it brings (because there WILL be downsides).
2. When you can get the OE part sold by the actual manufacturer, just without the automaker's label on it, for less money (be very careful looking for this as a lot of online info will turn out to be false).

 

Hi I don't know if anyone uses this anymore, but I recently bought an RX8 this summer and didn't know much about it when I did. I just found the car liked it's color and thought it would be fun to have a sports car. It's a 2004 renesis and the precious owner took extremely good care of it everything was great and taken care of it even had a couple of aftermarket parts. It was at 100,500 miles and still running great, but as the rotary engine does after going for so many miles it gave out and I think I have coolant leaking into my oil. Now I have to get a new engine and was thought this would be a great place to get information and answers to my questions. 1. If I was going to engine swap it what engine would be the cheapest most reliable with a bit more power if possible. 2. I would like to keep the rotary, so If i was to put another renesis in it does the renesis do well with turbo?

I would greatly appreciate any information, Thank You.

 

No such thing as a reliable engine swap unless

1. You're swapping in a VERY similar engine that works seamlessly with the rest of the car's electronics, and/or
2. Your bar for reliability is insanely low (basically "it hasn't exploded and killed me yet") and you're very good at conveniently forgetting all the little crap that's constantly going wrong with your car.

Point #2 also applies to adding forced induction to an engine that didn't come with it. Even if you keep the boost low, you're introducing a ton of possible failure points and headaches.

If you value reliability and don't have an eye-watering amount of money to spend on this, your best bet will be to get a brand new Mazda replacement engine from a reputable Mazda genuine parts retailer, make sure everything else (fuel system, ignition, cooling, etc.) is stock and in tip-top shape, and put it all together with zero mods (literally zero -- not even aftermarket "upgrades" that are claimed to improve reliability).

 

I'd say the ignition needs attention, since my barely used 07 was misfiring at track. It could have been fuel pump or ignition coils. I changed both to BHR, and stopped those engine damaging problems. I also, use 1/2 ounce to gall gas I use, by pouring in estimated at fillup. I just measure off side marker on bottle and I'm always close. It's a guess anyway. Also, I have a 6 speed auto which allowed me to take 14 deg f outta the coolant since the trans coller is in the radiator.

I'm rockin along with 38k miles in 17 years and car has zero troubles except it's a battery eater, and have to keep it disconnected unless driving once a week, since I don't.