Hi all, if anyone happens to know the weight and specs of the oem mazda flywheel for the 5 speed transmission (eu, uk & jdm markets), it would be helpful. Thank you in advance.

 

I tried google but can't find a reliable or really any answer for where the location of the ECM / ECU is, A rotary specialist speculated that my ECU might be going bad with the fact I have over 14 codes going on and I have the ability to get one out of 2004 Mazda RX8 I have a 2006 Mazda RX8 Shinka Edition, A) Can I directly swap the ECU? will I need to reprogram the immobilizer? B) Can someone give me a video or good pictures / description of the location of the ECM

 

ECU is on Front left looking at windscreen (passenger side in US) under the plastic cover.

What are the codes... some of them can go together and it doesn't mean the ECU is defective

Replacing the ECU is complex. It must be identical to the original... there are quite a few different ones over the production years...

And it must be programmed with "as built" data so that it will work.

 

These are the codes I have. I'm running without a cat, allegedly I was tuned by TREX Performance before they shut down when they did my rebuild to avoid anything regarding that. I also have an air pump removal and delete.

 

Looks like a vac leak and an evap leak for sure. Evap could be as easy as the gas cap being defective. Do you have an aftermarket intake? Common vac leak is the nipple for the VFAD duct is open at the manifold.

Other codes for the air pump and CAT delete.... Sensor 2 is post CAT O2 sensor and likely not there

Check the evap solenoid and piping where it enters the manifold. If it is leaking it can explain both codes.

Reset the ECU and see which codes come back...


None of those codes suggest an ecu issue

 

No aftermarket intake, it's stock. where is the nipple on the VFAD duct? is it the one here: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...cation-219112/ ???

If there's a leak there, is it going to be sucking or blowing there should i feel? I'm sorry I'm not sure the term of which positive or negative pressure means (negative means drawing in or positive means blowing i guess?) If it's leaking there do i need to replace the entire hose? Is the only option a salvage yard or do they have replacement hoses i can source somewhere? Is it best to just remove the VFAD system ? I don't really want to invest a cold air intake on the car yet unless I really should.

The three solenoids that are almost identical on the back of the UIM all were replaced with brand new ones when the engine was rebuilt . Where is the EVAP Solenoid? Or is that one of them?

 

Is there a Mazdaedit vs versatuner for dummies somewhere? Trying to decide which one of these tools to invest in, and get started playing with tuning.

 

Dragonlord, Please tag me in your response so I dont forget to come back and check.... did you install LED brake light bulbs or any LED bulbs anywhere?

1) Replace your gas cap
2) Replace your rear O2 Sensor
3) AIR injection pump code comes up because of it being removed and the system will check for that. I dont remember which plug you can disconnect at the air injection pump and it not set off a code, I want to say its the larger plug closer to the harness on the passenger side. Its square and has a larger diameter red and black wire going into it. Some models it may still throw a code, but my luck has been when disconnected at that connector it does not throw a AIR pump code.
4) Check your PCV, wouldn't hurt to remove it to clean it or even replace it.
5) Check your ABS fuse
6) Disconnect the OBD2 reader and drive a bit before reconnecting it, sometimes the PCM and these readers dont like one another and the communication gets funky and throws a bunch of body module codes when they get connected. Some cheap OBD2 readers also just dont seem to like the CANBUS communication with our cars and send things a little haywire. Check the codes with a different tool after you clear the codes and drive just a little bit

 

Look at the picture you posted the evap solenoid is labelled purge valve on it.

A vac leak will suck... and it will be after the throttle body.

Other common areas are around the injectors or intake manifold seals or one of the vac lines that were likely nessed with when they installed the motor

Most common evap leak is the gas cap like I said... so its worth putting on a new one

 

Dumb question... my power steering doesn't work. Didn't work when I picked the car up. Is there something I can check or is it just the power steering pump? No lights or error codes, just really hard to turn.

Thanks,
Hyde

 

type this in the search function using the Google search option: Www site Rx8club power steering

This will give you quite a list of threads related to your very common problem. The electrical connections get corroded. Sometimes the solution is to remove the connectors and solder the wires together. Read a few of the threads to find what best matches your issue and how you want to solve it.

 

Thank you!

 

Anyone know if any of the later models had dual auto windows?

As in the driver side window switch can auto roll down the driver and passenger side?

 

My 2010 has that one touch up or down for both windows. Now I jinxed it and one’s going to break.

 

I have a parked Rx8 for 6 years now and it needs some work. I had to move and just left it there, and want to get it running again. Thinking to do it as a DIY project.
I thought this could be a thread in S2 DIY but can't create one, so posting here.

The car is currently covered in a lot of dust from the nearby dryer and I have not tried starting it yet.
Im making a list of repairs.
So 1, I need to know how to clean it without scratching the paint.
2, both front door handles are broken. I've been looking for the parts, (FE87-58-410E-59 and FE87-59-410E-59) but I'm not sure, hoping to get help. Also need help confirming the color. I believe its diamond gray. Are they easy to replace?
3, both front window motors are broken, so they need to be replaced. Is this something I can do or better to send to a workshop? I already bought the motors some 1-2 years ago. Parts No: G22C-58-58XF and GJ6A-59-58X
4, the passenger airbag cover is all cracked, is that something I can replace too? what's the part?
5, about fluids and motor, what to inspect, clean and pay attention just so when I start it, it wont get damaged. Any tips.
6, best way to clean seats and interior. Suggestions welcomed.

Here are some pictures. I don't know if the parts I have identified will cover all needs. Will appreciate any help.

 

Yes there is a part from Mazda to replace the airbag cover . I dont know the part number, but the part is about $500 from Mazda, that I know . Check with a dealer for the part number and how to order it. This is a commonly cracked part over time, with ALL RX8.

RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.

30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

At 100k, anything original in the cooling system and any original cat are really suspect and failure prone. They represents the biggest threat to your engine. Replace.
Cheers
__________________

 

Oh boy. Glad you're up for restoring it, aside from the obvious, it looks in decent shape?

You can hose the dust off. Maybe not too much pressure at first, but as long as you're removing it without applying pressure and with lubrication (soapy water) you'll be fine.

I would drain the 6 year old gas and oil before starting. Battery might be dead as well. Can't comment on handles or window motors but if they're *both* broken are you sure it's the motors and not a fuse? I would check all fuses anyway.

Also check for obvious signs of animal nests under the hood and in the cabin filter area.

 

Here's the general wash strategy I was taught:

1. Rinse as much as possible with just water
2. Spray soap on, let it dwell, then rinse
3. Spray soap again, let it dwell, then wipe gently

Then proceed to whatever next steps you want (clay bar, compound, etc.).

In this case I'd imagine you'd want to repeat each step at least once before moving on to the next.

 

My well maintained 10 GT that's garaged most times has the passenger ABC starting to crack at 57K miles.

 

They will ALL crack over time. My 2008 40th Anniversary Edition RX8 which is garaged out of the sun, has now started to crack. My rotary shop, Rotary Performance in Garland, Texas, can get me the replacement cover for $500 USD or so. I will have them do the work next time I have them do an oil change. If I can get another 15 years out of the new cover, it is worth the cost IMHO. Time will tell.

As some of you may have read in other threads, my 2008 40th Anniversary Edition, with second engine, and many performance and other upgrades is now insured as a Classic Car by State Farm Insurance, which is the majority owner now of Hagerty's Classic Car Insurance. They examined the car and their underwriters did some research of latest auction prices and agreed to insure it for 150% of what I paid for it new back in 2008, with no depreciation. And that dropped my insurance premium in half, yes. So I need to keep it looking at its best, so I will change out that dash airbag cover.

Cheers and best to you.

 

Loki knows his stuff, listen to him.

Be sure to check ALL the mechanical and electrical parts I mentioned in the RX8club's maintenance list. Replace those that need to be replaced, or risk killing your engine, or at the least having poor performance. How many miles on the car ?
Cheers

 

Can anyone who knows offhand help me with this question, I cant find the service manual that will give me this info. Is the oil type requirement for the S1 5spd and S1 6spd the same? Also the volume... I'll be needing to order oil for when that transmission arrives.

 

FYI, both Series One and Series Two RX8 have six-speed manual transmissions. The transmissions are different, with a different shift location for reverse gear, and different final gear ratios.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-di...change-217642/
"2.06 quarts of GL4-type manual transmission fluid. I recommend either Redline MT-90 or Ford Motorcraft Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid. See end for more details."

Cheers

 

He was asking about the S1 5 and 6 speed.... get 3 qts of oil.... and change it often if you are beating on it

 

As a career journalist, language does matter. It is totally not clear if he is asking about engine oil or transmission fluid, and he mentions transmissions. So i just linked the RX8Clubs DIY thread on changing a Series Two Transmission fluids.
You sort it out ok, I was just trying to help here
Cheers