Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
01-13-2015, 10:28 AM
#4301
01-13-2015, 12:52 PM
#4302
Registered
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Question Dumb or not this is subjective: Can i re-route the line that takes oil from the crank case and delivers it to the combustion chamber and route it to a seperate oil container mounted at the same level as the sump and draw from that enabling me to deliver clean oil to the combustion chamber with out using the sohnen adapter?.
I have not been able to come up with any factual study or data that adresses weather or not the sohnen adapter has any effect on the life or performance of the stock OMP?.Can you shed some light on this question?.Just asking?
I currently and have been changing my oil every 3000 miles approx.My 8 is bone stock and currently has a little over 95,000 miles on it.It is running very well at present.I also pre mix at approx 200 to one or about 1/2 ounce of 2 cycle to a gallon of fuel if that helps at all.
.
I have not been able to come up with any factual study or data that adresses weather or not the sohnen adapter has any effect on the life or performance of the stock OMP?.Can you shed some light on this question?.Just asking?
I currently and have been changing my oil every 3000 miles approx.My 8 is bone stock and currently has a little over 95,000 miles on it.It is running very well at present.I also pre mix at approx 200 to one or about 1/2 ounce of 2 cycle to a gallon of fuel if that helps at all.
.
Last edited by reni04; 01-13-2015 at 12:56 PM.
01-13-2015, 01:56 PM
#4303
Question Dumb or not this is subjective: Can i re-route the line that takes oil from the crank case and delivers it to the combustion chamber and route it to a seperate oil container mounted at the same level as the sump and draw from that enabling me to deliver clean oil to the combustion chamber with out using the sohnen adapter?
OMP life is either unefected or improved by the shon adapter.
01-13-2015, 02:03 PM
#4304
Transmission inquiry
What is a torque converter and should I follow the following tip?
"Tip: torque converter lock up improves fuel economy and can feel like an additional gear change."
"Tip: torque converter lock up improves fuel economy and can feel like an additional gear change."
01-13-2015, 02:09 PM
#4305
Registered
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Adriatic Paradise
Posts: 596
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"In modern usage, a torque converter is generally a type of fluid coupling (but also being able to multiply torque) that is used to transfer rotating power from a prime mover, such as an internal combustion engine or electric motor, to a rotating driven load. The torque converter normally takes the place of a mechanical clutch in a vehicle with an automatic transmission, allowing the load to be separated from the power source. It is usually located between the engine's flexplate and the transmission." From Wiki
Yes, when the converter is locked up, there is no slippage and no loss of efficiency.
Yes, when the converter is locked up, there is no slippage and no loss of efficiency.
Last edited by CRO8TIA; 01-13-2015 at 02:12 PM.
01-14-2015, 01:47 AM
#4306
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When you change your oil, only about half is drained out, about half stays in the oil cooler(s), rotor housings, etc. so I would change the filter too as every bit helps and it is better to be safe than sorry with an oil filter that old.
The color of the oil does not indicate effectiveness, the oil gets dark due to blow by, etc. Good color does not mean the agents in the oil haven't broken down and, remember, half the oil in the engine is already really old. Good oil and filtration are two of the main factors in keeping your engine from self destructing and it's a relatively inexpensive insurance. I change my oil and filter every 3,000 miles or three months whichever comes first. Although some may go longer, I'd rather be safe than sorry especially considering the price.
If you plan to keep your 8 for awhile consider getting a SOHN. Your 8 injects oil onto the rotors to lubricate the seals, and burns that oil. The SOHN allows you to burn 2-stroke (premix) oil that is formulated to burn and will reduce the possibility of a carbon choked engine. Install: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...w-pics-252069/ https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...dapter-233841/ Purchase: OMP Adapters - Rotary Aviation<br />.com
Also, for an inexpensive way to keep engine oil overflow out of your fresh air intake, and to help keep blow by from gumming up your valves, especially your SSV, and throttle, I suggest you get a catch can. How works: Catch Can FAQ - NASIOC Oil Catch Cans | Everything you need to know and more! INSTALL & PARTS: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-basic-164463/ Alternatives: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...ch-can-137882/ I use a catch can that vents to the atmosphere to keep the oily blow by from gumming up my intake, throttle body, and valves.
On coolant, 15% coolant to 85% DISTILLED water may work well, but I don't have experience or know of anyone going that low in coolant. Friends who race their 8s use 25-30% coolant to 75-70% distilled water. I have heard several people just use a couple or so bottles of WaterWetter® and distilled water, without any coolant at all, but I'm not sure I'm ready to depend on WaterWetter® that much even though Red Line says it "...provides corrosion and rust protection for modern aluminum and cast iron cooling systems." (Google the reviews if you're interested.) Make sure you change coolant per manufacturer requirements, if not earlier.
On the coolant to use, I recommend you AVOID any coolant with 2-ethylhexanoate known, also, as 2-EHA.
Caltex Havoline XLI that contains 2-Ethylhexanoate salt is BAD for our cars.
Although a great many coolants such as Caltex Havoline, Prestone, DEX-COOL® and many others use 2-EHA, it is NOT for our 8s because it breaks down plastic in the cooling system and breaks down silicone seals in our engines leading to leaks of coolant into the engine that could cause catastrophic failure.
If you have access to Ford products, I believe Ford Motorcraft Specialty Green Engine Coolant [part VC-10-A2, or VC-10-A (premixed)] is free of 2-EHA. Whatever you chose make sure you have NO 2-ethylhexanoate (2-EHA). See, https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...licone-238638/
Hope all this helps.
The color of the oil does not indicate effectiveness, the oil gets dark due to blow by, etc. Good color does not mean the agents in the oil haven't broken down and, remember, half the oil in the engine is already really old. Good oil and filtration are two of the main factors in keeping your engine from self destructing and it's a relatively inexpensive insurance. I change my oil and filter every 3,000 miles or three months whichever comes first. Although some may go longer, I'd rather be safe than sorry especially considering the price.
If you plan to keep your 8 for awhile consider getting a SOHN. Your 8 injects oil onto the rotors to lubricate the seals, and burns that oil. The SOHN allows you to burn 2-stroke (premix) oil that is formulated to burn and will reduce the possibility of a carbon choked engine. Install: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...w-pics-252069/ https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...dapter-233841/ Purchase: OMP Adapters - Rotary Aviation<br />.com
Also, for an inexpensive way to keep engine oil overflow out of your fresh air intake, and to help keep blow by from gumming up your valves, especially your SSV, and throttle, I suggest you get a catch can. How works: Catch Can FAQ - NASIOC Oil Catch Cans | Everything you need to know and more! INSTALL & PARTS: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-basic-164463/ Alternatives: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...ch-can-137882/ I use a catch can that vents to the atmosphere to keep the oily blow by from gumming up my intake, throttle body, and valves.
On coolant, 15% coolant to 85% DISTILLED water may work well, but I don't have experience or know of anyone going that low in coolant. Friends who race their 8s use 25-30% coolant to 75-70% distilled water. I have heard several people just use a couple or so bottles of WaterWetter® and distilled water, without any coolant at all, but I'm not sure I'm ready to depend on WaterWetter® that much even though Red Line says it "...provides corrosion and rust protection for modern aluminum and cast iron cooling systems." (Google the reviews if you're interested.) Make sure you change coolant per manufacturer requirements, if not earlier.
On the coolant to use, I recommend you AVOID any coolant with 2-ethylhexanoate known, also, as 2-EHA.
Caltex Havoline XLI that contains 2-Ethylhexanoate salt is BAD for our cars.Although a great many coolants such as Caltex Havoline, Prestone, DEX-COOL® and many others use 2-EHA, it is NOT for our 8s because it breaks down plastic in the cooling system and breaks down silicone seals in our engines leading to leaks of coolant into the engine that could cause catastrophic failure.
If you have access to Ford products, I believe Ford Motorcraft Specialty Green Engine Coolant [part VC-10-A2, or VC-10-A (premixed)] is free of 2-EHA. Whatever you chose make sure you have NO 2-ethylhexanoate (2-EHA). See, https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...licone-238638/
Hope all this helps.
Alright, I will switch to a 30/70 mix
If that's what those guys are doing, it must be good.I don't think water wetter is available where I live.So I can't use Caltex coolant? Damn. That's all they have here. Even Mazda agents use it
I will call up my local Ford dealer and check on that coolant you mentioned. Hopefully they'll have it. If not, I'll have to import FL-22. Better than killing my engine I guess Thank you so much for taking the time to help me out. I really appreciate it
P.S. When you change your coolant, remember to drain the block: Normalexception.net - RX8 Coolant Flush
I have had good luck with a product called "Beck/Arnley 50/50. you can check it out at www.Beckfluids.com.
I have used it a long time and i have just over 93000 miles and no ill effects.Never had a cooling issue with it.
I have used it a long time and i have just over 93000 miles and no ill effects.Never had a cooling issue with it.
Thanks for the help.
01-15-2015, 10:23 PM
#4307
So I washed my car in the freezing cold outside and everything froze go figure. Ended up taking it into a heated garage and letting it all melt but now my hid fog lights don't work. Neither of them.
I have a series II.
Could I have messed up both ballasts? I'll check the fuse tomorrow... is it just one for both foglights?
ALSO. How is the nighttime vs. daytime lights controlled on auto? Just curious.
-D
I have a series II.
Could I have messed up both ballasts? I'll check the fuse tomorrow... is it just one for both foglights?
ALSO. How is the nighttime vs. daytime lights controlled on auto? Just curious.
-D
01-15-2015, 11:08 PM
#4308
So I washed my car in the freezing cold outside and everything froze go figure. Ended up taking it into a heated garage and letting it all melt but now my hid fog lights don't work. Neither of them.
I have a series II.
Could I have messed up both ballasts? I'll check the fuse tomorrow... is it just one for both foglights?
ALSO. How is the nighttime vs. daytime lights controlled on auto? Just curious.
-D
I have a series II.
Could I have messed up both ballasts? I'll check the fuse tomorrow... is it just one for both foglights?
ALSO. How is the nighttime vs. daytime lights controlled on auto? Just curious.
-D
beers
01-17-2015, 07:46 AM
#4309
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm sorry for giving you a hard time telling you to check the fuel trims and what not. Turns out the 9MPG issue was because I was crawling around at 15MPH Once I started driving it for real, things got a lot better.When I told you about the grommet falling in and overheating my engine, I remember you telling me that my engine was "most certainly blown". 500 miles later, the car is still going strong and I'm not losing coolant
Which is exactly why I'm looking at getting new coolant. I bought a new thermostat due to inconsistent temp spikes (up to 219F). So I thought of changing the coolant while I'm at it
01-17-2015, 08:47 AM
#4311
New Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
buying rx8
Hello everyone , am looking to buy an rx8 , have no experience when it comes to rotary engines . The car that i am buying has a regeneration engine done 2 years back , i have no clue what does it mean .
Would appretiate some help regarding the same and some advice about rx8 when buying one .
Would appretiate some help regarding the same and some advice about rx8 when buying one .
01-17-2015, 08:54 AM
#4312
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 240 Likes
on
110 Posts
"Regeneration engine" makes no sense to us either.
I suspect whoever told you that means a "remanufactured engine", which is common for RX-8s, and is not a penalty against it.
See this thread before making any purchase. Seriously, you will need to read it through. https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
I suspect whoever told you that means a "remanufactured engine", which is common for RX-8s, and is not a penalty against it.
See this thread before making any purchase. Seriously, you will need to read it through. https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
01-17-2015, 09:06 AM
#4313
Driving my unreliable rx8
01-17-2015, 12:41 PM
#4315
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 240 Likes
on
110 Posts
Recently posted elsewhere:
If you have a low coolant level light...
A) You are low on coolant
or B) The sensor float is failing and needs to be replaced
or C) You have a cooling system failure that is resulting in either reservoir foam, excess air being displaced in the system, or some other pressure-related system failure
or D) You can pretend that this is all a mystery and voodoo magic and just cross your fingers that nothing bad happens (which works every time, i swear)
A) You are low on coolant
or B) The sensor float is failing and needs to be replaced
or C) You have a cooling system failure that is resulting in either reservoir foam, excess air being displaced in the system, or some other pressure-related system failure
or D) You can pretend that this is all a mystery and voodoo magic and just cross your fingers that nothing bad happens (which works every time, i swear)
01-18-2015, 09:43 AM
#4316
40th anniversary Edition
More than likely a bad coolant sensor, a common problem. either spend $200 getting the bottle and sensor replaced (it is all one piece) or just check your coolant level regularily
01-19-2015, 02:21 PM
#4317
Registered
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok I don't get the logic behind this. I know the stock thermostat opens at 212F and closes at 185F. I was monitoring my coolant temps today while idling, with the AC on. Both fans were on, with the fan on the left side of the car (the loud one) going on and off every 2-3 mins. It went up to about 192F and stayed there. I then decided to turn the AC off and watch the temps. It went up to around 207, and then came back down to around 204 and stayed there. The loud fan did not come on. I think the fan on the right side of the car was on (the one under the battery).
So with the AC on, the temps are lower because the fans are on, and with the AC off, the temps go up? Isn't that flawed?
Second, I thought the thermostat stays closed until temps go up to 212F, and then when it hits 212F, the thermostat opens and stays open until it drops to 185F. I don't understand why it stayed at 204F.
So with the AC on, the temps are lower because the fans are on, and with the AC off, the temps go up? Isn't that flawed?
Second, I thought the thermostat stays closed until temps go up to 212F, and then when it hits 212F, the thermostat opens and stays open until it drops to 185F. I don't understand why it stayed at 204F.
01-19-2015, 03:56 PM
#4320
Ok I don't get the logic behind this. I know the stock thermostat opens at 212F and closes at 185F. I was monitoring my coolant temps today while idling, with the AC on. Both fans were on, with the fan on the left side of the car (the loud one) going on and off every 2-3 mins. It went up to about 192F and stayed there. I then decided to turn the AC off and watch the temps. It went up to around 207, and then came back down to around 204 and stayed there. The loud fan did not come on. I think the fan on the right side of the car was on (the one under the battery).
So with the AC on, the temps are lower because the fans are on, and with the AC off, the temps go up? Isn't that flawed?
Second, I thought the thermostat stays closed until temps go up to 212F, and then when it hits 212F, the thermostat opens and stays open until it drops to 185F. I don't understand why it stayed at 204F.
So with the AC on, the temps are lower because the fans are on, and with the AC off, the temps go up? Isn't that flawed?
Second, I thought the thermostat stays closed until temps go up to 212F, and then when it hits 212F, the thermostat opens and stays open until it drops to 185F. I don't understand why it stayed at 204F.
So it basically slowly reacts and opens and closes to keep the temp in a band around the "open" temp
How fast the temp goes up and down is also dependent on the rate the cooling system can expel heat...when it is hot out the temps will take longer to go down because the difference between ambient and the coolant temp are smaller.
01-19-2015, 03:58 PM
#4321
Ok, I'll walk you through the logic that this conclusion takes.
- The OMP draws hot, used engine oil through the oil pan.
- This oil is injected into the engine.
- The SOHN+OMP draws warm, unused two stroke oil from a place.
- The oil is injected into the engine.
- Therefore the SOHN either does not effect or improves OMP life.
01-19-2015, 04:01 PM
#4322
Ok, I'll walk you through the logic that this conclusion takes.
- The OMP draws hot, used engine oil through the oil pan.
- This oil is injected into the engine.
- The SOHN+OMP draws warm, unused two stroke oil from a place.
- The oil is injected into the engine.
- Therefore the SOHN either does not effect or improves OMP life.
So dirty oil is the same as clean oil
I don't argue with you that it doesn't likely make any difference
01-19-2015, 04:05 PM
#4323
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 240 Likes
on
110 Posts
reni04,
The RX-8 is such a hotbed lodestone to attract complaints of failures or problems. If the SOHN was a problem, people would be screaming about it. The SOHN has been used extensively since the early 90s, perhaps 80s? in RX-7s as well. Search RX7Club.com to see if you can find any failure reports there.
If nothing else, OMP failure is retardedly rare on here, I can't recall more than about 5 in over 7 years of membership + 2 years of lurking before that. If the SOHN had any appreciable impact on OMP lifespan, the failure rate would very quickly become more significant.
This is simply not something to worry about. Besides, any possible SOHN replacement that you are going to try to build would be subject to the same (or worse) circumstances than the SOHN is, since the SOHN is just a milled block of metal with a few fittings.
The RX-8 is such a hotbed lodestone to attract complaints of failures or problems. If the SOHN was a problem, people would be screaming about it. The SOHN has been used extensively since the early 90s, perhaps 80s? in RX-7s as well. Search RX7Club.com to see if you can find any failure reports there.
If nothing else, OMP failure is retardedly rare on here, I can't recall more than about 5 in over 7 years of membership + 2 years of lurking before that. If the SOHN had any appreciable impact on OMP lifespan, the failure rate would very quickly become more significant.
This is simply not something to worry about. Besides, any possible SOHN replacement that you are going to try to build would be subject to the same (or worse) circumstances than the SOHN is, since the SOHN is just a milled block of metal with a few fittings.
01-20-2015, 07:30 AM
#4324
40th anniversary Edition
As a member of the original RX7 club and subsequent clubs I can tell you the SOHN (but with a different name and from various home builders) has been used in many forms since the '80s. ) I don't recall it ever leading to any OMP failure.
Just remember if your current RX8 is still under the 8yr,100,000 mile engine warranty, using a SOHN adapter will void the engine warranty if it is noticed in place when you try for an engine replacement under the warranty. Of course in reality using the Sohn adapter properly could not cause an engine failure, but Mazda has and can void your warranty on the grounds that the engine wasn't getting proper lubrication. If your engine is out of the warranty, no worries here.
Just remember if your current RX8 is still under the 8yr,100,000 mile engine warranty, using a SOHN adapter will void the engine warranty if it is noticed in place when you try for an engine replacement under the warranty. Of course in reality using the Sohn adapter properly could not cause an engine failure, but Mazda has and can void your warranty on the grounds that the engine wasn't getting proper lubrication. If your engine is out of the warranty, no worries here.
01-20-2015, 08:26 AM
#4325
Registered
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok, I'll walk you through the logic that this conclusion takes.
- The OMP draws hot, used engine oil through the oil pan.
- This oil is injected into the engine.
- The SOHN+OMP draws warm, unused two stroke oil from a place.
- The oil is injected into the engine.
- Therefore the SOHN either does not effect or improves OMP life.
Walking through what you call logic is really walking through your opinion.If you have no data or proof it's still your opinion and can not be substituted as proof.It is your opinion and that and a buck will get you a cup of coffee at 7-11 right?.
.lol.Mazda has no data on this because the omp was not designed for piggy back devices, If it had been the factory would have said so.Mazdas does not recommend piggy back devices and there is no supporting data for anylong term data study.I don't believe there is any data on the sohn adapter in concert with the OMP's operation.My original question was"Can i re-route the line from the oil sump and draw from a seperate container of fresh oil "and you said no but offered no reason or proff as to why.I'm sorry but logic isn't data, logic is only what you think might be not what is represented by imperical proof or actuall data there fore you logic is alas only your opinion.Spock might disagree but this is the rx8 not a episode of star trec lol.
Last edited by reni04; 01-20-2015 at 08:53 AM.