Ok so ran into a problem took the harness off it was...yea so bought a new one hooked it up immobilizer popped up car won't start says no communication with coils but they are hooked up tried the battery disconnect hold brake to reset it nothing it just refuses to get out of immobilizer mode. Anyone got any tips

 

what coils do you have? I had same problem when I installed my d585 coils. Check grounds.

 

I think the "coil" it is referencing is likely the key coil on the ignition.

 

This thread helped me.
Scroll down to 'Immobilizer/DTC'

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...utputs-155947/

 

i have a 2005 shinka nordic green rx8 with ~90k on it. black and tan leather seats but the body work needs some love, lots of rust. what would be the best way to go about selling this baby?

 

you can make a f/s thread after the required # of posts and 30 days iirc. its in the new members section. im pretty sure you dont have a nordic green 05 shinka tho. the ng was only in 04 and the 05 shinkas were black cherry mica

 

Hey All,


I recently purchased an 06 Rx8 Shinka Edition and it is in really great condition. Previous owner added a aftermarket suspension to it and said it needed adjusted because when you hit a bump the rear would sway a bit. It is majorly noticeable on the highway. So I took it into a shop had it looked at. They adjusted the suspension, coilovers to the same, and did a chassis alignment. After the adjustments the car still sways but does driver better. We are thinking the sway bar may be too small if it was ever changed or if the after market suspension needs to be adjusted different (currently all shocks and coilovers are the same height).


Please feel free to let me know your thoughts or if you have ever had similar issues! Thanks

 

The sway bar doesn't really help with sway in the way you describe it. The stock bar is plenty, some people even remove it entirely. You can disconnect the endlinks and see if it changes anything. What do you mean by "sway" exactly?

What brand of suspension is on there?

 

Noticed a broken bolt on the exhaust mani. Tried everything but welding a nut to it to get it out. Besides disconnecting the batt is there anything else I should do before welding on the engine? Im doing this while it's still in the car aswell.

 

Ok so nothing would connect not even obd2 so I'm thinking the pcm just isn't receiving any power I had it towed to the dealership and they can't figure it out "don't know why I thought they could" so now I'm thinking I knocked something in the fuse box lose or a fuse burnt out because if the pump has no power then the immobilizer would just flash as well and it's not the immobilizer that's the problem. PCM worked fine before the swap

 

Have you checked the room fuse on the inside fuse panel. If it is blown the pcm won't have power and the OBD port won't be powered.

 

Ya checked it and replaced with a brand new one when I originally did the testing
for resistance I noticed there was power to the room fuse but not through the harness side and one of the injector plugs was broken explained the fuel issue I had so now I'm thinking it's the in between connection from fuse to harness I believe the fuse box is where they connect have to look at the diagram again

 

How much is a 2005 nordic green rx8 worth?
~90k on the odometer.
salvaged title
rust on the side skirts and wheel arches
black and tan leather interior
gps, heated seats
still runs good
possibly had a new engine put in it at ~70k because of a recall.
no other mods known.
other details needed???

 

Price would depend on engine health.

 

i have yet to do a compression test but if compression is good what would be your ballpark figure? $5k?

 

With a good engine and not too much rust, maybe.

 

I keep blowing the fuses on my taillights for a series 1 anyone know how to fix this issue?

 

The wires to the third brake light. Take the liner off the trunk lid and follow through. I had a small bare spot on mine and it was blowing the fuse.

 

Ok I replaced the harness now the car won't start. Double checked connections fuses ect can't find a problem. Took it to the shop, the dealership (bad idea I know), and the best mechanic in town that I know of. Lastly my cousins shop, and nobody can figure out why it doesn't start everything is connected correctly. Everyone is coming to the same conclusion that it's the PCM. Yet the pcm worked perfectly fine before the engine harness change. The engine is giving the code n_n________ no connection with pcm. Dealership said they tried to connect with the pcm and couldnt.

 

Did you replace it with the correct year and trim/options harness?

 

Did you check the room fuse in the interior fuse box?. It supplies PCM power and if it's blown the car won't start

 

Room fuse yes I read on here the electric throttle fuse gonna see on Monday its in the shop for that one other than that not sure.

 

So, I was wondering how to adjust the flow rate of the oil metering pump to make the oil get pumped more and make the engine more reliable.

 

With an ECU tune. There is an oil injection map you can modify with MazdaEdit and some info around this forum about improved settings.

 

The OMP is controlled by the ECU (computer.). If it’s like the 3rd Gen. RX7’s it’s both RPM and load dependent, probably using input from the TPS. An option to the above might be to just pre-mix 2-cycle oil at no more than 1/2 oz. @ gallon, guesstimating at the gas pump. Know that if you have periodic emissions testing where you live, the risk of failing goes up. Maybe someone else will chime in with experience, but it may be a bit hard on a stock catalytic converter as well.