umm, so another dumb question from me, i was changing the cabin air and this popped off from somewhere, i have been staring at the filter area for the past 15 mins and i cannot figure out where this goes.

https://i.postimg.cc/g23X3cfb/viber-...3-10-37-45.jpg

 

It goes on the seat rail. It's like an end-cap for the metal rail.

 

Oooooohhhhhh. ok thanks dude, never would have thought of that.

 

Could the car still run at 100k miles without ever having the coils changed?
Just got it and fuel economy is pretty awful -- I used 1/8 of a tank driving 3km (I know it needs plugs already, but unsure if previous owner ever changed coils).

 

If the history is unknown, then it's always a good idea to replace them.

 

Yes I am going to!
The plugs needs replacing anyways, and bc no idea on condition of coils other than "upgraded" (per the seller, he's not really a rotary guy from the sounds of it) I was just going to grab a BHR Plug/coil/wire kit.
I'm just getting REALLY bad fuel economy (worse than normal), and wondering if the combo of worn out plugs+coils is what's doing it.

 

Usually poor fuel economy comes from poor ignition and as a result, a melted catalytic converter. Driving any amount in either of those conditions further damages the engine so definitely don't do that until you are sure the ignition and cat are OK.

 

Car has no CAT, so at least I'm safe on that front.. Bought the car knowing it needed spark plugs, but the condition of the coils is not known, and previous owner didn't log any maintenance, changes other than "upgraded". How long ago they were "upgraded" I have no clue. Could've been 20k KM, could've been 50k.

 

Yes get the latest BHR coils/plug set . That is the best coil set IMHO ever for RX8, and the BHR coils can last you for many years of driving. Still good to change plugs every 15K miles or so depending on your driving. .

 

Yeah that's what I was planning on going with already, and every single person telling me to get those has only reinforced that hahaha.
yeah my car is actually over due for plugs at 25k KM (~16k miles), basically needs an entire ignition system refresh :p

 

With good coils 25k km is no problem for plugs. There is some kinda myth about needing to replace them every time you change the oil, but that's a quick way to spend money and accomplish nothing. I think I change mine at 50k km? And even then they are not overly dirty or out of gap spec. And if they do come out dirty, the problem is probably not the plug.

 

Looks like I have some detective work to do about what I'm dealing with :p

 

Either this was just a fluke of how the fuel gauge moved during those 3 KMs, or something is SERIOUSLY wrong.

I'd imagine that if the coils (or plugs) were bad enough to cause fuel economy anywhere near that bad, the engine would run like crap. The tailpipe would probably be spewing a ton of smoke and bad smell, even by decatted RX-8 standards (which are horrible enough as they are).

 

Yes 25K Km is about 15+k miles ,like I said, so that is when it is wise to change plugs, even sooner of you track the car. Cheers

 

im looking at my first rx8 on cars from japan and and its saying theres a 2000cc i thought it was only in the 1.3 Renesis i just want to see if its mislabeled or did i just not know?

 

It's mislabeled, or someone changed the engine.

 

Did all the troubleshooting, found out my front driver side sensor is kaput, i cant get another one for a few months and now its time to renew my car rego.

Long story short, is there a way to force abs and tcs light off? Short of desoldering the LED lights?

 

Ugh. Try pulling the abs/dsc fuse out, and you will lose speedometer reading as well.

 

What is preventing getting a replacement sensor? They're about $50 on Amazon. It might be an unwelcome expense, but not having registration sounds even more unwelcome.

 

isnt the sensor pressed into the hub?? i think i have to swap out the entire hub right? and even that will need to be calibrated to the onboard computer.

Would you happen to have a part number or link?

i live in an area where it will take some 2 months to get the part in

 

Ah you're right. The rears are replaceable but not the fronts. My bad.

 

Search for X-07 socket pinouts, or the easiest way, there are three Red/Yellow wires which one of them is a positive switch.
Photos taken from my auto dimming mirror DIY.

 

Dumb one.
Car's been running hot on highway during summer(not in traffic nor idle), system full of coolant, no air. Water pump and t-stat working(Mazmart, new), relatively new Mishimoto radiator and ducted(LRB undertray+foam), heater core orifice in place, both fans working, coolant flush recently (pretty clean), 30% FL22/70% distilled water, AEM intake to free up space behind rad. Oil sample did not find coolant in oil. Catless
Why do I run hot (never passed 220f, max 216f, but my fan turn on at 180f)?
Radiator surface is approximitaly 180f when coolant is 180f however, the top tank(Aluminium) is only 113f measured with IR gun.
Still have air in system? Bleed it according to FSM and even driving with the cap off for several days.
Clogged/bad radiator?

 

If it overheats at speed but not at slow/stationary condition, the problem is more likely airflow to the radiator. Do you see any routes for air to go around the rad? You have the LRB undertray, including the side shrouds?

 

Do I have to Premix my 2011? I ordered my rotary bum kit /.\
The previous owner only put 5w-20 since car has 59k I am considering 10w-40 conventional, I been thinking long and hard about idemistu 10w-30 full synthetic but I would have to order in advance but I don't mind. Also, I heard it don't need a sohn adapter.