Here is the updated starter for S1 ATs

https://www.onlinemazdaparts.com/p/M...218400R0B.html

And here is the starter for S2 ATs

https://www.onlinemazdaparts.com/p/M...218400R00.html

N3H1 is for MT cars.

 

Thank you for that valuable information !. I have a N3H2A in my parts bin and i will install it to see. I haven't pulled the old starter yet. i don't know what the original starter number is that's in the car from manufdacture ?. I tried reading it while installed with a mirror and i thought it said N3H1 but i guess i will see when i pull it. Thank you.

 

You're welcome

 

I have a 2005 6spd that has low compression. I looked into a dealership engine and was quoted $7500 to replace it. They said the engine alone costs about 4k. I'm going to go the rebuild route and need a recommendation. I live in West Michigan. Looking for a shop in Michigan, Indiana, Ohio, or Illinois. Thanks for the help!

 

Some recommended rebuilders. might be some closer to you.

Black Halo Racing
RX-7 & RX-8 Performance
Pineapple Racing
Racing Beat - Mazda Performance Specialists
Rotary Performance
Rotary Resurrection

 

So, like an idiot, I purchased a navigation screen assembly without the dash cover/trim piece to go along with it. Been searching for one a couple hours now. Would anyone know where I could find the dash cover separately? (Besides a junkyard)

Edit: This is a 2005 with the flip up hood.

 

Doesn't the navigation assembly come with the dash cover?

 

That's what I assumed, but it did not. It was sold as a "screen assembly". Probably should've looked at the picture

2004 Mazda RX-8 FE0166DV0 Navigation Screen

 

Anyone know why grease/oil is collecting outside under my airfilter???

See images



Few other things
Also I know this car rides low to the ground after having it for years but if I hit a small pot hole it sounds like bolts are coming lose WHEN at the time I hit the pothole, not after. May its just me but I dont think a car should sound like that when hitting a pothole even though it can be an insane sound when hitting a pot hole in general. Meanwhile I had two mechanics check and to see any play and there was none.

Any tips for cleaning between the corner sides of the trunk/skylight area?

Last question anyone know with respect to the interior of the trunk which electrical connections are there? I know a broad question, My trunk has bad weather stripping, I just ordered a new one to prevent any water from getting in for the near future but my car seat warmers are not working properly or at all but the lights go on. Just curious if they electrical wiring goes to the trunk and which other connections that are major connected back there besides the connections for the tail lights.

Thanks in advance!

 

Back pressure could be pushing oil up through the intake. I had a clogged cat when this happened. On one engine it eventually lead to low compression.

 

Is that big job?

 

I wanted a "spare" short block to get rebuilt in anticipation of blowing my current one. Seems as if the going rate for these is about $500-600. On the other hand, it looks like I could piece the major components together fairly easily. cover, housings, e-shaft, rotors, etc while buying brand new seals, dowels, etc. For roughly the same price.

Which would end up being a better idea in the end? Is there any advantage to having "matching" rotor housings for an engine? Or could you safely piece together any combination of RX8 covers/housings/rotors from different vehicles? Granted they're within spec. It seems as if I might have much better luck buying good housings to begin with rather than rebuild an unknown. Then having to buy new housings anyway. On the other hand it seems like sending boxes of parts to builders is pretty frowned upon.

 

Not sure how you figure that...no way you can buy all the parts even used for $5-600....

A collection of parts will work perfectly fine if they are spec'd out and everything is within tolerances. You need matching rotor weights and really the rest is a no brainer.

 

I guess I could've worded that better. I definitely understand even a set of decent housings can cost more than $500. After rebuilding a junkyard engine, chances are I'd have to buy a set of new housings among other things though.

So at that point does it really make sense to spend $500 on a half dozen potentially crap parts? Or would it be better to try to intelligently piece it together over time?

It seems as if the rotors themselves are pretty indestructible (correct me if I'm wrong). So perhaps a $500 gamble does make more sense in the end? With a hope that something beyond the rotors are salvageable?

 

Update, Thank God, it was not what you mentioned. Apparently my car oil was over filled, the engine is ok. Could have been either by the last person who did the oil change or by me adding VERY little oil not even a 1/8 of a quart of oil in like two months. I think it was a combination of it being over filled when changed and then me thinking it was low due to the winter weather and it congealing due to the condensation and the temperature. The dealership also mentioned by over filling it it could also cause it to congeal faster. Other than that? My trunk weather-stripping had a crack in it so I repurchased that. HOPEFULLY no more water will get in. I am still dealing with the cracked dash ONLY on that little piece in the passenger side and the other thing which is annoying but at this point I am not replacing because I just cant afford it and I dont know anyone to put the cheaper ones in from Amazon; the seat warmers. Other than that she is purring knock on wood.
Maybe by next winter the brake pads IF I am not forced to sell it.

Sorry for this being long.

 

I just bought a RX8 a week ago I've always wanted one and I finally found one! But I'm already having issues It starts rough about 3 4 seconds befor it fires up. I live in nh so it's cold here but it also blows white smoke I didn't start it for a week when I went to drive it it wouldn't start when I finally got it started a half hour later it shot out enough wight smoke to fill my whole street. It still runs fine but it just threw a check engin light. The coolant level isn't going down the oil is good idk what's going on with this car but I'm very worried as I just spent a good amount of money picking it up. It has 134K on it. Is there anything else it could be besides a coolant seal leak?

 

Hey guys I just bought a Rx8 it ran fine tell I let it sit for a week when I went to start it took me a half hour to get it going when she fired up she blew enough whit smoke to fill my whole street. What causes this? The coolant level is good the oil level is a little high.

 

it will smoke a little if it sat for a while. how old is the ignition? hows the battery/what starter? did you get it comp tested? what do the plugs look like? sounds like you didnt research these cars at all.

go read all the new owners stickies on this forum

 

Hard starting, stumbling on initial cold start, "white smoke"...steam, are all signs of coolant seal failure. Any sweet odor to the exhaust? Crank or VERY briefly start the car and then shut it down. Pull leading plug and check for coolant smell. Check your overflow bottle level for being over-full and/or have your cooling system pressure tested.
It does sound like a failed seal.

 

I've been trying for a couple of days now to find the specifications of the flange nut that screws into the front of the air box tray. I can't seem to find it in the service manual or the diagrams from onlinemazdaparts.

Tried eyeballing a few from the hardware store but the thread patterns weren't lining up. Where could I find information like this? Searching for "air tray flange nut" and variations of that come up with a bunch of crap.

 

Question about white smoke...

I have an 05 with 130k on body and 8k on engine. I've owned it for more than six months and it has been my daily driver.

The other day I took it out for a nice curvy road sunday drive, and I was getting on the gas a little (not red lining or pushing the engine to its limits).

Then I come to a light and make a right turn and get up to speed. As I get up to speed, I see white smoke billowing out of my tailpipe. I pulled over and coolant was green, not brown, and engine oil was fine. The smoke out of the tailpipe smelled kind of sweet though.

I drove it for another 8 or so minutes in town to get it home and it barely smoked after I got it back on the road for a minute or two.

I started it up the next day and it billowed large amounts of smoke again upon start up, then stopped after a minute or so of idling.

I started it up a few days later after not driving it for a couple days, and very very little amounts of white smoke came out (barely visible) so I decided to drive it and see how the smoke reacted.

I got on the gas after warming the engine and no smoke came out.

Now I see this as good news, but everything ive seen says white smoke is a bad sign for the rotary. Does anyone have any idea what it could be? Engine power is still 100%, and it just seems the more I drive it the less it smokes, but If the engine is toast, I don't want to break it any more than it already is.

Thanks!

 

I'm guessing it'll be a 10mm nut...M6 x 1.0

 

2005 rx8 6 speed I did a very aggressive launch and spun my tires for a good minute afterwards my dcs and traction control lights wouldn't go off eventually the dcs light went off however the traction one has been on for close to a year I tried the whole turning the key and wheel and cranking it procedure a dozen times to no avail what gives

 

Looking for someone who can fix?

I am looking for a solution to the above problem (Fault P1688).
I am told, as the car is not driven frequently, it is unlikely to need a replacement (oil pump). Instead the part requires removal, a switch needs turning to zero and then the part is refitted. This solves the P1688 problem.

Is there anyone who can carry out this work (2-3 hours) in or around North London area? If so please contact me to discuss and agree cost of work.

Thanks
Steve
Mob: 07958 601601

 

I am looking for a solution to a fault (P1688 oil pump). I am assured this requires the removal of the pump and resetting 'back to zero' then the part is refitted and the problem is solved.
Unfortunately I have the fault but not the know-how.
I am looking ofr someone who can carry out the work required in the North London area? If you can help please contact me.
Steve Douglas
Mob: 07958 601601