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So..when stopped at a light or in traffic and the digital odometer is on zero should the actual odometer analogue gauge needle be on zero? Might be the sensor? Mine hovers around 900 rpm rather than being at zero when it says zero. Something feels off when braking or accelerating. Another thing is my mechanic like a month or so ago replaced the sway bar kit in the rear but didn't have an alignment done, was that necessary?
Last edited by mazdafan1892; 04-16-2019 at 05:17 AM.
You don't need an alignment after a sway bar link change.
The odometer... Do you mean tachometer? The digital display is speed, the analog gauge is engine rpm. 800 rpm is the correct idle speed when stopped.
You don't need an alignment after a sway bar link change.
The odometer... Do you mean tachometer? The digital display is speed, the analog gauge is engine rpm. 800 rpm is the correct idle speed when stopped.
Hi Loki, I guess I mean the tachometer. The orange or red needle. Even in park it doesn't go to zero. Only when the car is off.
Another dumb question calls to mind lol, So when I am driving and the climate control is off, even though the temperature **** is on cold and the vents are open, I think the heat from the engine bay is coming in throw the cabin vents. Would turning on the fan with the vents open while driving help cool off the engine bay faster? It makes sense to me having the air from outside the car funnel throw dissipates heat and having the fans on, not the a/c would help keep that part of the car cool. You could tell I have no cooling mods installed.
Another dumb question calls to mind lol, So when I am driving and the climate control is off, even though the temperature **** is on cold and the vents are open, I think the heat from the engine bay is coming in throw the cabin vents. Would turning on the fan with the vents open while driving help cool off the engine bay faster? It makes sense to me having the air from outside the car funnel throw dissipates heat and having the fans on, not the a/c would help keep that part of the car cool. You could tell I have no cooling mods installed.
If you turn your heat up... and turn the fans on it's like a small radiator. It will lower your coolant temps a bit..... but you will bake in the car...even with the windows open
Another dumb question calls to mind lol, So when I am driving and the climate control is off, even though the temperature **** is on cold and the vents are open, I think the heat from the engine bay is coming in throw the cabin vents. Would turning on the fan with the vents open while driving help cool off the engine bay faster? It makes sense to me having the air from outside the car funnel throw dissipates heat and having the fans on, not the a/c would help keep that part of the car cool. You could tell I have no cooling mods installed.
Depends on where you live, you may or may not be able to take all that heat without tempting to turn on the A/C.
And you don't really have to worry about cooling when cruising anyway since there is plenty of air flow. It's idling that will have your ECT go up.
Get some live OBD2 data on your ECT and go from there. If you can stay below 98 C/208 F all the time then you will do just fine.
Thanks guys, just sometimes I notice I have the climate control system off but the vents will be open and the car will be hot as a oven. Another thing that will need checking in the future,
when i give me tank full gas the car leaks the mechanic told me its not the fuel pump so what could it be the car does not leak when i put 20 bucks but when i fill it up all the it leaks what can it be
No gas leak is normal. You need to locate the source of the leak ASAP and address this issue. Any fuel leak is a serious fire hazard. We can help here if you tell us where the leak is originating.
when i give me tank full gas the car leaks the mechanic told me its not the fuel pump so what could it be the car does not leak when i put 20 bucks but when i fill it up all the it leaks what can it be
Sounds like the fuel pump ring to me, same thing happened to me... twice. There was a recall for the fuel pump ring, did you have that done at any point? The fuel pump is located under the drivers side back seat, so the leak would be coming from that general area if this were the case.
Getting ready for a hill climb event in 4 months and I want to replace some sagging rear suspension. Figured now is the time to replace everything. I'd like to keep a bit of the body roll and feel of the stock suspension. I'd like to avoid dropping the car any more than .8" MAX. This car is used during a lot of road events and I need clearance. Anything lower than that and I won't clear some of the local speed bumps.
I see a lot of honda/miata people shouting Tein, but I'd like to hear from the rx-8 club on what is recommended (I see Koenig's, too, but from not track enthusiasts). Ohlins are expensive, but the people selling them have only positives to say (I've read some good reviews from rally drivers, so they must be pretty darn good). I see some people use Bilstein PS-S9's but admit they don't track often, also. It would probably be a good idea for me to be able to make adjustments as the surface and locations this car competes on changes frequently.
Motorcyclists seem to put Ohlins, KYB, and Showa as the top 3 to check out. But I haven't checked to see if KYB and Showa make suspension to fit the 8.
I would have a good look around on the forum.... there is some good info . Especially on some of the racing/track threads about both suspension and alignments.
Basically you need to figure out a budget and go from there. You can go anywhere from $1.5K to 10K... and there are big differences on what you get.
The Ohlins are pretty hood... you will have to figure which springrate you want if you order them...
Teins are not in the competition range for this car
Basically you need to figure out a budget and go from there. You can go anywhere from $1.5K to 10K... and there are big differences on what you get.
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I'm up in the air on spring rates from what I'm reading. I hear pro people talk about 500+ front and around 400-450 on the rear, but all the spring rates of most of the kits I see on this board are in the mid to low 200's. If I like the body roll, shouldn't I be looking at the low 200's, as well? 400-500 seems quite stiff for an "OEM feel." Then, one of the Ohlins I listed shows a 13KG/8KG rate. That's about 727/450 if I did my math correctly. On the track I imagine that's quite a flat ride.
I'm a little confused, you are preparing for a competition event but then arguing against any competitiveness improvements.
Stiffer spring rate = less body roll = better grip especially the outside front tire on these cars.
If you want to retain comfort, that's fine, you can be comfortable with a stiff spring rate as long as the shock is designed to match, which is where Ohlins shine (and why they cost some). Don't chase brands though, read the subforum on suspension here. Feal are high regarded, and not as expensive as Ohlins.
I'm a little confused, you are preparing for a competition event but then arguing against any competitiveness improvements.
Stiffer spring rate = less body roll = better grip especially the outside front tire on these cars.
If you want to retain comfort, that's fine, you can be comfortable with a stiff spring rate as long as the shock is designed to match, which is where Ohlins shine (and why they cost some). Don't chase brands though, read the subforum on suspension here. Feal are high regarded, and not as expensive as Ohlins.
Not trying to argue against, it is just that I've driven a stiff RX-8 before and I like the feel of the OEM roll a bit better for road courses. I don't mind going stiffer, but I'd like to retain some of that roll if possible.
From what you describe, I think you want Ohlins with the 8K / 5K springs. The ride is very stock-like, and you get the benefits of the stiffer-than-stock springs. Look around for a used set in good condition, if price is a concern. They are worth it.
For cars that are mostly street-driven and occasionally see the track, I also like Bilstein B14 PSS. They are not adjustable like the B16 PSS9, but the valving is better, and the PSS9 adjustment mechanism is a worthless gimmick anyway. This is your softer spring, more body roll option, if that is what you really want. I have seen them for ~$800 on sale with coupons, etc. Huge bang for the buck.
I have not owned Feal, but I have driven and ridden in many Feal-equipped Miatas, and I am very impressed with them. They offer street and road race versions. The street version is comfortable on the street and competent on the track.
Tein is barely better than junk, IMHO. No one in my sphere is running Tein and winning time trials (or anything else).
I'm an experienced tracker, but not a big mechanic. I basically know stuff after things break, and do as much as I can myself. So far the only thing I haven't done myself was a clutch replacement, as I don't have a garage to work in.
I'll take a look at the Ohlins 8K/5K and the B14 PSS. I'm waiting for an email back from Feal after I found a set that I think worked. Thanks for the input.
I meant skill level as a driver. I am an HPDE instructor, who participates in time trials, for example. Knowing that can help us help you.
Also, what tires do you run? Sway bars?
Something worth mentioning with the RX-8 is that the rear bump travel is somewhat limited. Ways to cope with that are some combination of: 1. set the ride height a little higher than "normal" for a track car; 2. increase rear spring rate (and front to match); 3. Increase rear spring preload; 4. Use a short, progressive rate bump stop; 5. run a little positive rake and compensate elsewhere in your setup.
There are a lot of good reasons to run more spring in the RX-8 than the low 200s.
Here is some spring rate information on commercial coilovers I have collected over the years for quick reference:
Last edited by Steve Dallas; 04-30-2019 at 07:48 AM.
About 20 years motorcycles/cars, and about 10 years just cars. I do hill climbs, road courses, track, and PDX, but I stopped doing PDX because the road surface was horrible and caused issues. All suspension is currently stock, but I will be doing Progress Technology sway bars, Energy Suspension bushings, and White Line end links when i do the suspension.
From what I've continued reading, I think i'll go with the stiffer rates as you suggest and get used to it. I'll take a look at the 457 and the 504 rates and make a decision. Thanks.
Most of us run a medium to heavy front sway bar and use the stock or less rear bar (MX-5 or none). Whitelines RX-8 end links are too long for a lowered car. Plan to use MX-5 links of some description.
04-16-2019, 05:14 AM
