Dumping a few gallons of water through the service ports.

 

Not exactly.... a newbie following that advice blindly is likely to destroy their engine.

 

Well not exactly I guess... He did say fastest.

 

It is the fastest, but "dumping" a few gallons through would probably not actually strip any carbon at all. Engine has to be turning, and hard to turn if it's hydro locked.

"Feed a couple gallons of distilled water through slowly (and properly) to steam clean it" would be a more accurate statement.

 

^Correct. Use a clean container with distilled water. Put a vacuum hose in the container and attach the other end of the hose to a vacuum port on the intake. Bring the engine up to ~3k or so and be ready to work the throttle to keep it running while it ingests the distilled water. I would do a quart or so at a time, pausing for a couple minutes in between. Have a second or even a third person keep an eye on the exhaust as it tends to get hot.
Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.

FWIW, if you happen to be FI a simple AI system does the same thing, just much more gradually.

 

I have steamed a few motors in the past, didn't really even think about it with the Rotary. Just not fully sure what will hurt or not hurt the apex seals.

New here yes, new to rotorys kinda, but new to cars or engines... Far from it.

 

Read this thread for decarbing methods I tested, what is effective and what isn't. I also have info on how exactly I set up the steam cleaning option. https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...r-pics-241867/

 

Thanks for the info man. Some good old fashion driving this morning cleared out my problem. But I will go through and read what you found as soon as I have some free time!

 

Like a vaccine, there is always some inherent risk...however small. Probably no more than "high revving" you engine. Regardless, benefits usually easily out way them. I've heard reliable reports (from veteran owners of high mileage engines) that they actually saw an increase engine vacuum/compression. Speculation is that carbon cleaned and allowed the seals to move freely within the grooves, allowing better 'seal' again the housing.
And obviously removing carbon deposits reduces the chance of pre-ignition which could cost an engine. I run a AI system on my car. No pictures, but you'd be surprised on the difference it makes in reducing deposits on leading plugs.

 

Yeah I was reading the 200k thread the other day and saw one guy used seafoam every fill up without a hitch with no negative side effects. I think every tank may be a little much though.

 

I've read every engine thread I can and still have a question.

From what I can see it's, it seems preferable to look at '06's and up but failing that, the '05's over the '04. ymmv

But assuming you find a great deal on an '04 with a replaced engine, here's the question:
The '04 engine was replaced at 60K miles and has a further 50K miles on the second engine (body 110K)

Assuming 10K miles per year per year, what engine would it likely have been replaced with in about 2010, a newer engine or a leftover 2004? In other words, a better engine or another potentially "defective" one?

I have seen the receipt and the engine is listed as N3H2-02-2COR-VO "replace rotary engine" and the rad was replaced on the same work order.

Assuming a compression tests passes, would an original '05 engine car with 50K miles on it be a better deal? So a replaced '04 engine or a non-replaced '05 engine, both similar mileage and showing good compression?

The '04 is a fair bit less expensive (2K)
Yes, I'd get a compression test on either one prior to purchase.

-hope this makes sense. I just have no idea what they replaced warranty engines with.

 

Boy is that a mouthful lol

I'm curious of this too.

What exactly is mazda doing when they tell you that they are replacing the engine? Because my 2004 has 23k on engine and transmission and 88k on body, so is it a reman? Is it whatever is new? Or is it a older style?

I have paperwork in the glove box maybe I'll have to read into it a little more.

 

Assume it's a rebuild. I'm sure the info is here somewhere but I don't know off the top of my head when they ran out of new motors to use in replacements.

 

So I had a look at a fan control diagram and found out that "after cooling" happens when the engine temp is over 230F. Does this mean that if the fans stay on for say 10 mins after stopping the car, the coolant temp is over 230F? :O

 

Again in my case, I have seen the sellers receipt that says "replace rotary engine" and the engine is listed as N3H2-02-2COR-VO

I just don`t know if they generally replaced with newer engines that were less problematic or another original engine that just delayed the inevitable

Engines were certainly replaced not rebuilt

 

Replaced with a rebuild.......The dealer doesn't crack them open lol

 

So they are reman engines. A rebuilt engine would be at a dealer or shop. I'm sure we all get what everyone means but if it comes from mazda and isn't new it's a reman.

 

This is my paperwork on engine

Check out the bottom of the paper work

"All parts are new unless otherwise indicated"

 

Maybe I'll call the dealer that did my engine to confirm. Any product that is re manufactured is required to be stamped that way to make consumers aware of what they are getting.

But...

I did read a press release from mazda stating that the engines will be reman or new depending on availability. So it would be best to ask the dealer that installed it which one you got.

 

Yes, that is a reman engine. $2,100 was the list price for reman engines for quite a few years.

The quote at the bottom is just generic text. If you contested the difference in court, the dealer would simply say that the part number defines a reman engine, not a used engine.

 

Well...It is the dumb question thread...right.

 

well my first post here is gonna be in the dumb question thread. woot!

So the dealer i bought my 8 from gave me two sets of keys.

1) the factory advanced key with auxilary key, seems to be fully funtional aside from needing a replacement battery soon. (the red blinking light in the dash indicates this, yes?)

2) a traditional looking car key, with a mazda logo fob, as well as a keyless entry device (unbranded)


^^this second set of keys doesnt seem to function at all.... it will somewhat fit into the drivers side keyhole and trunk, but will not turn or open either one. the keyless entry device doesn't seem to be working at all either.


whats up with this? did they give me the wrong keys?

What keys are distributed to original owners from day 1?

just a little confused trying to figure out why the heck I have these extra non-functional keys.

I guess I'm ok, given that the advanced system works fine, but I'd like to have that other set working as a backup, yaknow??


thanks in advance guys

 

Mazda made just the two original keys (advanced, depending on what year RX8 you have) per car. The advanced keys you got are obviously the right keys, the other keys don't fit so don't use them or even try to force them in your locks and mess your locks up, that would cost a lot to replace the locks. BTW the blinking right on the dash doesn't have anything to do with the battery condition in the advanced key, the blinking light indicates when your alarm/immobilizer system is active. It is a good idea to keep a spare battery handy for your advanced keys. You can get the right battery at many stores, I found them at Wal-Mart. Don't buy the battery from the dealer, many dealers will charge you a small fortune for a battery that only costs a few dollars for a pack of two.

For people who lose the advanced keys, your dealer can use your key's code to make another set and then it has to be reset to the car's immobilizer system or the engine won't start. The dealer will charge a nice price to remake the factory keys and reset everything. Throw away the second set,they are useless, don't know why they give them to you anyway?

 

^^ thank you sir. So just to verify..

- You're saying if i had just purchased a brand spankin' new rx8 from a mazda dealership, the only keys i would've gotten are the advanced keys? (the big rectangle device with the auxiliary key inside) and nothing more??

It doesn't bother me so much that the spare keyless entry doesnt work at all, since the advanced key already serves that function just fine, but i am a bit disappointed about the mazda logo key not working. Q.Q


Hahah yeah i've already taken the battery out to investigate; i'd never pay a dealership for something so simple :p
As for the indicator light, i thought i read in the owners manual that a blinking red light meant the battery was running low in the advanced key? Perhaps theres two different indicator lights that we're confusing? The one i'm referring to is in the bottom left of the dash/ gauge cluster and has a key symbol on it when lit up. It blinks passively.

Edit: oh, and i got an '06 in galaxy gray

 

This document (http://www.rx8help.com/doc/tsbs/Key%...%20Carline.pdf) only has the middle generation RX-8 set of keys defined. The later RX-8s replaced one of the switchblade keys with the wallet card I believe. 2004 had separate key from fob, not integrated into the switch blade. All RX-8s should have gotten 3 physical objects that were capable of opening the doors and/or starting the car in one method or another.