Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#1876
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Last night I turned my car on to quickly move it from one place of my driveway to another and quickly turned it off, about 2 hours later I tried to turn it on to leave somewhere and it didn't turn on. It wasn't the battery bc I tried that nor was it the oil, the only light on on the dashboard was the engine light and the "ABS" light.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
#1878
Yank My Wankel
iTrader: (4)
Last night I turned my car on to quickly move it from one place of my driveway to another and quickly turned it off, about 2 hours later I tried to turn it on to leave somewhere and it didn't turn on. It wasn't the battery bc I tried that nor was it the oil, the only light on on the dashboard was the engine light and the "ABS" light.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Depending on how bad, you may just be able to crank the car while compressing the gas pedal (Cuts the fuel) shouldn't have to remove the fuel pump fuse, try it for a couple seconds alternating between compressed and uncompressed pedal see if you get any life out of her.
If that fails go here
https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...lumber-182410/
Good luck
#1879
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
You sir, have sunk your battleship
Depending on how bad, you may just be able to crank the car while compressing the gas pedal (Cuts the fuel) shouldn't have to remove the fuel pump fuse, try it for a couple seconds alternating between compressed and uncompressed pedal see if you get any life out of her.
If that fails go here
https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...lumber-182410/
Good luck
Depending on how bad, you may just be able to crank the car while compressing the gas pedal (Cuts the fuel) shouldn't have to remove the fuel pump fuse, try it for a couple seconds alternating between compressed and uncompressed pedal see if you get any life out of her.
If that fails go here
https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...lumber-182410/
Good luck
#1881
#225 of 1000
iTrader: (7)
A friend of mine did this to his RX-8. Ditched both the washer fluid bottle and the coolant reservoir back in 2009 and had his shop custom made one with a simple level you'd normally see in some Oil Catch Cans. I'm not sure if it has much affect with cooling since it's located at the rear of the engine bay. He has since sold the car, but if you are interested in this, I can ask him about the shop which made this.
I was thinking more like the mazsport canisters.
i think ive seen a few of those squareish ones on ebay while i was searching for ~$60ish
or did you actually mean the canister?
mangnok did this one for his coolant. I want something like this but. However how do i determine what is "full" for the coolant...
edit: i think we both posted pictures of mangnoks car.... lol
Last edited by EricB; 03-28-2013 at 10:59 PM.
#1883
Charles Bundy
iTrader: (5)
the coolant is the big can correct?
I was thinking more like the mazsport canisters.
i think ive seen a few of those squareish ones on ebay while i was searching for ~$60ish
or did you actually mean the canister?
mangnok did this one for his coolant. I want something like this but. However how do i determine what is "full" for the coolant.
I was thinking more like the mazsport canisters.
i think ive seen a few of those squareish ones on ebay while i was searching for ~$60ish
or did you actually mean the canister?
mangnok did this one for his coolant. I want something like this but. However how do i determine what is "full" for the coolant.
#1884
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Sorry I didn't have more time yesterday to respond to this RIWWP.
Good information here. You should add it to one of your threads.
Couple more questions or things I'm confused about.
A) Of course I've been using my Cobb AP reporting of the RPM to our OEM RPM Gauge. Is this the equivalant of a Digital Tach (ODBII) vs OEM Analog?
B) If we assume that you are correct that the ECU uses the ESS (I don't if it does either), I wonder on accuracy of that pickup method. The ESS to me seems to be a rather poor implementation of a rather important sensor.
Good information here. You should add it to one of your threads.
Couple more questions or things I'm confused about.
A) Of course I've been using my Cobb AP reporting of the RPM to our OEM RPM Gauge. Is this the equivalant of a Digital Tach (ODBII) vs OEM Analog?
B) If we assume that you are correct that the ECU uses the ESS (I don't if it does either), I wonder on accuracy of that pickup method. The ESS to me seems to be a rather poor implementation of a rather important sensor.
1) Yes, the OBD2 signal is digital RPM
2) Actually the ESS is the most accurate method available. It provides the ECU a position of where the e-shaft is, and the ECU just simply has to measure the time between any two TDC blips (or BDC, or whatever as long as it's the same point), and extrapolate from there. Don't forget that a basic fact that MUST be known by the ECU is "what is 1 revolution", and the ESS provides this precisely.
It might not actually check every sweep, but keep a running mini table of the last 10 revolutions for example. Like if it's seeing 10 revolutions in 66 milliseconds, that's 9,000rpm. However unless it measures more accurately than 1ms (unlikely?) then it would have trouble measuring back to back revs, since 9,000rpm is 6.6ms per rev, which would be rounded to either 6ms (10,000rpm) or to 7ms (8,571ms). Using this method, error margin due to rounding starts to increase as the RPM increases, but it would still be precise enough.
The other possible method would be to use an internal timer, like 1 second, and count the revs during that time, multiplying by the appropriate number. However I don't believe this would be what is used, as the COBB appears to update it's RPM faster than even 1/10th of a second, and at a 750rpm idle each rev is 0.08 seconds, so just a hair slower than a tenth of a second. The error margin due to rounding would be greater the lower the RPM, possibly far too much of an error rate.
It is also possible that the ECU uses more than just 1 single position of the e-shaft in it's calculation. Like if there are 20 nubs on the pulley, it totals all of them up. I am unsure specifically how it measures though.
Older cars used an electrical generator (think a tiny alternator) on the crankshaft that the speed of the crankshaft changed the electrical output, and this output was used to feed the tach directly. I believe this method was largely obsolete when carbs disappeared, as it isn't nearly precise enough for fuel injection. The analog tach remained though, and I believe this was largely because of the ability to see the motion and general position of the needle without having to look at it directly. It's much easier to read the tach needle from your peripheral vision or at a momentary glance than it is to read the RPM on the AP.
The front main pulley is also the 2nd largest diameter object attached to the e-shaft, which means that the signal will has less noise. Think about the difficulty of accuracy if you have a 1/4" sensor trying to read the magnetic pulses on an e-shaft only 1 inch in diameter (not sure the actual dimensions of either, just an illustration). The precision is much higher when there is a large diameter object that will move the signal source much farther out of range when it shouldn't be read. The flywheel would technically be even more precise than the pulley, but you don't want to have to pull the transmission just to clean or check the sensor, and the pulley is precise enough.
#1885
#1886
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So dumb question time: I know the Side Seals are the weak points in our engines when under hi boost/hi EGT for extended periods of time. So my question is, does anybody make ceramic side seals for the MSP? Or is there any process or witchcraft that could be done to the seals to allow them to withstand more heat?
#1887
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It's actually the side seal springs, not the seals themselves. The spring warps far enough to push the side seal out of place where it clips the exhaust port and -boom-. Ceramic isn't a very good spring material. There are some theories out there for solutions, and I think some European guys have had success with RX-7 side seal springs, but just through the rumor chain, so I don't put much weight on it yet.
#1888
#1889
You sir, have sunk your battleship
Depending on how bad, you may just be able to crank the car while compressing the gas pedal (Cuts the fuel) shouldn't have to remove the fuel pump fuse, try it for a couple seconds alternating between compressed and uncompressed pedal see if you get any life out of her.
If that fails go here
https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...lumber-182410/
Good luck
Depending on how bad, you may just be able to crank the car while compressing the gas pedal (Cuts the fuel) shouldn't have to remove the fuel pump fuse, try it for a couple seconds alternating between compressed and uncompressed pedal see if you get any life out of her.
If that fails go here
https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...lumber-182410/
Good luck
I tried deflooding the car, that didn't work. So I'm guessing it's new spark plugs it needs.. now I've got to find someone that knows how to do this and is able to drive to where my car is at.
#1890
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It looks like you are just northeast of Atlanta, which means you are in luck. One of our best vendors is near there, as is a healthy and supportive GA RX-8 community. I'd recommend reaching out to ask for some help here: https://www.rx8club.com/se-rx-8-foru...-thread-59933/
#1891
Yank My Wankel
iTrader: (4)
They shouldn't allow females buy Rx8's let alone one that doesn't know how to fix them. This car should come with a warning for us.
I tried deflooding the car, that didn't work. So I'm guessing it's new spark plugs it needs.. now I've got to find someone that knows how to do this and is able to drive to where my car is at.
I tried deflooding the car, that didn't work. So I'm guessing it's new spark plugs it needs.. now I've got to find someone that knows how to do this and is able to drive to where my car is at.
Save yourself some money, there are plenty of DIY threads out there for spark plugs. Even without a DIY it shouldn't take more than an hour.
#1892
US Navy Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
They shouldn't allow females buy Rx8's let alone one that doesn't know how to fix them. This car should come with a warning for us.
I tried deflooding the car, that didn't work. So I'm guessing it's new spark plugs it needs.. now I've got to find someone that knows how to do this and is able to drive to where my car is at.
I tried deflooding the car, that didn't work. So I'm guessing it's new spark plugs it needs.. now I've got to find someone that knows how to do this and is able to drive to where my car is at.
#1893
Alright, I will be here often for questions! :D So, here goes...
I DON'T have the doll hairs to dump into a nice exhaust system (racing beat, mazdaspeed, HKS, etc.) I just want a louder (not chainsaw inside metal shed) sound from stock. I have listened to a few with Flowmaster 10 Series, or magnaflow on their 8's, and I like the sound! I am NOT looking for a hp gain, just louder and (IMO, better than stock) I want to know the cheapest way to do this! I had a truck and just cut off the original muffler and placed an aftermarket one, and I loved the sound. Can i do this with my 8? Like I said, I want to keep it cheap, I did it on my truck for $60 including the muffler for $30. Please let me know!
thanks,
Jay
I DON'T have the doll hairs to dump into a nice exhaust system (racing beat, mazdaspeed, HKS, etc.) I just want a louder (not chainsaw inside metal shed) sound from stock. I have listened to a few with Flowmaster 10 Series, or magnaflow on their 8's, and I like the sound! I am NOT looking for a hp gain, just louder and (IMO, better than stock) I want to know the cheapest way to do this! I had a truck and just cut off the original muffler and placed an aftermarket one, and I loved the sound. Can i do this with my 8? Like I said, I want to keep it cheap, I did it on my truck for $60 including the muffler for $30. Please let me know!
thanks,
Jay
#1895
Alright, I will be here often for questions! :D So, here goes...
I DON'T have the doll hairs to dump into a nice exhaust system (racing beat, mazdaspeed, HKS, etc.) I just want a louder (not chainsaw inside metal shed) sound from stock. I have listened to a few with Flowmaster 10 Series, or magnaflow on their 8's, and I like the sound! I am NOT looking for a hp gain, just louder and (IMO, better than stock) I want to know the cheapest way to do this! I had a truck and just cut off the original muffler and placed an aftermarket one, and I loved the sound. Can i do this with my 8? Like I said, I want to keep it cheap, I did it on my truck for $60 including the muffler for $30. Please let me know!
thanks,
Jay
I DON'T have the doll hairs to dump into a nice exhaust system (racing beat, mazdaspeed, HKS, etc.) I just want a louder (not chainsaw inside metal shed) sound from stock. I have listened to a few with Flowmaster 10 Series, or magnaflow on their 8's, and I like the sound! I am NOT looking for a hp gain, just louder and (IMO, better than stock) I want to know the cheapest way to do this! I had a truck and just cut off the original muffler and placed an aftermarket one, and I loved the sound. Can i do this with my 8? Like I said, I want to keep it cheap, I did it on my truck for $60 including the muffler for $30. Please let me know!
thanks,
Jay
I purchased a very low-cost exhaust system from a forum member here as well as a BHR midpipe (which is also reasonably priced) without a catalyst and it still cost me around $900.00 total =/.
You can browse the For sale section of the forum and probably find a used borla or other brand for a cheaper price.
#1896
I have a 2005, so the engine warranty is up this year.
It's just about to come out of winter storage.
Should I get a compression test before it goes back on the road?
Or just let the warranty expire, and save the $120+ the dealers charge for it.
It hasn't exhibited any bad signs, has new wires and plugs (less than 2 years / 12k miles on them) - but it is still on original ignition coils (BHR kit when I can afford it) ... we're @ 43k miles.
I've kept all receipts for oil changes, but need to confirm whether I can find them all. I have full documentation from original owner also (I'm 2nd owner).
It's just about to come out of winter storage.
Should I get a compression test before it goes back on the road?
Or just let the warranty expire, and save the $120+ the dealers charge for it.
It hasn't exhibited any bad signs, has new wires and plugs (less than 2 years / 12k miles on them) - but it is still on original ignition coils (BHR kit when I can afford it) ... we're @ 43k miles.
I've kept all receipts for oil changes, but need to confirm whether I can find them all. I have full documentation from original owner also (I'm 2nd owner).
#1897
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Lets see, would you rather fork out $120.00 for a comp test, or several thousand dollars for a new engine when the warranty expires , if the comp is below limits. At least you will have an idea on the health of your engine.
#1898
Touche, touche. So even if one doesn't notice the engine idling roughly, lacking power, etc. it's still a possibility that the compression numbers could be low enough to score a new engine?
I have no doubt they've dropped since I bought the car, that's basically a guarantee as I understand it. I just am uncertain about whether the warranty threshold is high enough that it's possible it could fail and I'd not even notice the difference. If it's possible, then I'll high tail it in there (if I can find my receipts!)
I have no doubt they've dropped since I bought the car, that's basically a guarantee as I understand it. I just am uncertain about whether the warranty threshold is high enough that it's possible it could fail and I'd not even notice the difference. If it's possible, then I'll high tail it in there (if I can find my receipts!)
#1899
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I'm just going to say it:
You would be moderately foolish to NOT get a compression test just before the warranty expires, EVEN IF you believe the engine is perfectly healthy.
You would be moderately foolish to NOT get a compression test just before the warranty expires, EVEN IF you believe the engine is perfectly healthy.