*press GAS down* Stoopid fatfinger

 

I will definitely try this!!! Thank you!

 

You sir, have sunk your battleship

Depending on how bad, you may just be able to crank the car while compressing the gas pedal (Cuts the fuel) shouldn't have to remove the fuel pump fuse, try it for a couple seconds alternating between compressed and uncompressed pedal see if you get any life out of her.

If that fails go here
https://www.rx8club.com/do-yourself-...lumber-182410/

Good luck

 

Hi Carbon8, when I flooded mine I tried it like you said but I had no luck. Pulling the fuse helped and I really can't remember how many times I did it, probably wasn't as many as I said, but it fired right up after that. Having a new battery helped too. Like you said, it probably depends on how bad it's flooded.

 

Did I stump everybody, or was my question just that dumb?

 

the coolant is the big can correct?

I was thinking more like the mazsport canisters.

i think ive seen a few of those squareish ones on ebay while i was searching for ~$60ish


or did you actually mean the canister?

mangnok did this one for his coolant. I want something like this but. However how do i determine what is "full" for the coolant...




edit: i think we both posted pictures of mangnoks car.... lol

 

I don't think it's dumb, but I don't know the answers. :/

 

The larger one is the custom reservoir and the oil catch can is the cylinder tank. What's full? I guess fill it with the standard volume and just add once the fluid settles. There is a clear pipe that shows the fluid level. Anyway, yes, that was his car; he sold it an he now owns a hybrid Lancer RalliArt/EVO X.

 

I missed this WCS.

1) Yes, the OBD2 signal is digital RPM

2) Actually the ESS is the most accurate method available. It provides the ECU a position of where the e-shaft is, and the ECU just simply has to measure the time between any two TDC blips (or BDC, or whatever as long as it's the same point), and extrapolate from there. Don't forget that a basic fact that MUST be known by the ECU is "what is 1 revolution", and the ESS provides this precisely.

It might not actually check every sweep, but keep a running mini table of the last 10 revolutions for example. Like if it's seeing 10 revolutions in 66 milliseconds, that's 9,000rpm. However unless it measures more accurately than 1ms (unlikely?) then it would have trouble measuring back to back revs, since 9,000rpm is 6.6ms per rev, which would be rounded to either 6ms (10,000rpm) or to 7ms (8,571ms). Using this method, error margin due to rounding starts to increase as the RPM increases, but it would still be precise enough.

The other possible method would be to use an internal timer, like 1 second, and count the revs during that time, multiplying by the appropriate number. However I don't believe this would be what is used, as the COBB appears to update it's RPM faster than even 1/10th of a second, and at a 750rpm idle each rev is 0.08 seconds, so just a hair slower than a tenth of a second. The error margin due to rounding would be greater the lower the RPM, possibly far too much of an error rate.

It is also possible that the ECU uses more than just 1 single position of the e-shaft in it's calculation. Like if there are 20 nubs on the pulley, it totals all of them up. I am unsure specifically how it measures though.

Older cars used an electrical generator (think a tiny alternator) on the crankshaft that the speed of the crankshaft changed the electrical output, and this output was used to feed the tach directly. I believe this method was largely obsolete when carbs disappeared, as it isn't nearly precise enough for fuel injection. The analog tach remained though, and I believe this was largely because of the ability to see the motion and general position of the needle without having to look at it directly. It's much easier to read the tach needle from your peripheral vision or at a momentary glance than it is to read the RPM on the AP.


The front main pulley is also the 2nd largest diameter object attached to the e-shaft, which means that the signal will has less noise. Think about the difficulty of accuracy if you have a 1/4" sensor trying to read the magnetic pulses on an e-shaft only 1 inch in diameter (not sure the actual dimensions of either, just an illustration). The precision is much higher when there is a large diameter object that will move the signal source much farther out of range when it shouldn't be read. The flywheel would technically be even more precise than the pulley, but you don't want to have to pull the transmission just to clean or check the sensor, and the pulley is precise enough.

 

Thanks. I'll ask again in the suspension thread. Barring that, I'll just try it out, I guess.

 

So dumb question time: I know the Side Seals are the weak points in our engines when under hi boost/hi EGT for extended periods of time. So my question is, does anybody make ceramic side seals for the MSP? Or is there any process or witchcraft that could be done to the seals to allow them to withstand more heat?

 

It's actually the side seal springs, not the seals themselves. The spring warps far enough to push the side seal out of place where it clips the exhaust port and -boom-. Ceramic isn't a very good spring material. There are some theories out there for solutions, and I think some European guys have had success with RX-7 side seal springs, but just through the rumor chain, so I don't put much weight on it yet.

 

whoa ive never heard of using peanut butter..i might just tape off my back bumper put a towel down and just plasti dip it.

 

They shouldn't allow females buy Rx8's let alone one that doesn't know how to fix them. This car should come with a warning for us.
I tried deflooding the car, that didn't work. So I'm guessing it's new spark plugs it needs.. now I've got to find someone that knows how to do this and is able to drive to where my car is at.

 

It looks like you are just northeast of Atlanta, which means you are in luck. One of our best vendors is near there, as is a healthy and supportive GA RX-8 community. I'd recommend reaching out to ask for some help here: https://www.rx8club.com/se-rx-8-foru...-thread-59933/

 

That was discriminatory :

Save yourself some money, there are plenty of DIY threads out there for spark plugs. Even without a DIY it shouldn't take more than an hour.

 

You can push start it. I used a nice pillow between my car and the vehicle behind me. Put in neutral, get to 20mph, the vehicle behind you stops and then you pop the clutch, and presto. Fixed me way too flooded car, and didn't have to replace the $125/each spark plugs. Now they are only $20/each. But it works.

 

Alright, I will be here often for questions! :D So, here goes...

I DON'T have the doll hairs to dump into a nice exhaust system (racing beat, mazdaspeed, HKS, etc.) I just want a louder (not chainsaw inside metal shed) sound from stock. I have listened to a few with Flowmaster 10 Series, or magnaflow on their 8's, and I like the sound! I am NOT looking for a hp gain, just louder and (IMO, better than stock) I want to know the cheapest way to do this! I had a truck and just cut off the original muffler and placed an aftermarket one, and I loved the sound. Can i do this with my 8? Like I said, I want to keep it cheap, I did it on my truck for $60 including the muffler for $30. Please let me know!
thanks,
Jay

 

nothing on this car is cheap. youll be bashed if you wanna do "cheap" exhaust upgrades or whatever "cheap" things you wanna do

 

Only thing I can really see you doing for cheap is to gut the catalytic converter that is on your car. However then you do not have a functioning one and will fail an emissions test. Some people have told me that they like the sound of a gutted cat with stock muffler. I believe it's louder as well as raspy. You can youtube a sound clip.

I purchased a very low-cost exhaust system from a forum member here as well as a BHR midpipe (which is also reasonably priced) without a catalyst and it still cost me around $900.00 total =/.

You can browse the For sale section of the forum and probably find a used borla or other brand for a cheaper price.

 

I have a 2005, so the engine warranty is up this year.
It's just about to come out of winter storage.
Should I get a compression test before it goes back on the road?
Or just let the warranty expire, and save the $120+ the dealers charge for it.
It hasn't exhibited any bad signs, has new wires and plugs (less than 2 years / 12k miles on them) - but it is still on original ignition coils (BHR kit when I can afford it) ... we're @ 43k miles.
I've kept all receipts for oil changes, but need to confirm whether I can find them all. I have full documentation from original owner also (I'm 2nd owner).

 

Lets see, would you rather fork out $120.00 for a comp test, or several thousand dollars for a new engine when the warranty expires , if the comp is below limits. At least you will have an idea on the health of your engine.

 

Touche, touche. So even if one doesn't notice the engine idling roughly, lacking power, etc. it's still a possibility that the compression numbers could be low enough to score a new engine?
I have no doubt they've dropped since I bought the car, that's basically a guarantee as I understand it. I just am uncertain about whether the warranty threshold is high enough that it's possible it could fail and I'd not even notice the difference. If it's possible, then I'll high tail it in there (if I can find my receipts!)

 

I'm just going to say it:
You would be moderately foolish to NOT get a compression test just before the warranty expires, EVEN IF you believe the engine is perfectly healthy.

 

Ten-four, message received and fingers crossed.