Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#1777
Registered
iTrader: (3)
ok i have probably a dumb question.
i want to upgrade my primary fuel injectors from the oem reds to the 09 greens. Is there enough compensation in the pcm to handle that 10% increase without having to retune? My stfts are reasonable--less than -15 during the reds only injecting range.
i want to upgrade my primary fuel injectors from the oem reds to the 09 greens. Is there enough compensation in the pcm to handle that 10% increase without having to retune? My stfts are reasonable--less than -15 during the reds only injecting range.
#1779
The X is silent
#1783
ok i have probably a dumb question.
i want to upgrade my primary fuel injectors from the oem reds to the 09 greens. Is there enough compensation in the pcm to handle that 10% increase without having to retune? My stfts are reasonable--less than -15 during the reds only injecting range.
i want to upgrade my primary fuel injectors from the oem reds to the 09 greens. Is there enough compensation in the pcm to handle that 10% increase without having to retune? My stfts are reasonable--less than -15 during the reds only injecting range.
#1787
Has anyone rebuilt the transmission on an 04 RX8? From what I've read, you need a lot of specialized tools. I can't find any rebuild info in the shop manual I have, so I'd like to know if anyone has tried or done it.
Have 2nd gear grind and want to get rid of it.
Haven't found a rebuilt unit for sale yet, not sure anyone local could handle a rebuild properly if specialized tools are required (Wpg, Canada).
Have 2nd gear grind and want to get rid of it.
Haven't found a rebuilt unit for sale yet, not sure anyone local could handle a rebuild properly if specialized tools are required (Wpg, Canada).
#1788
Is there any trick for getting the rear 02 sensor electrical clip disconnected? I'm putting in a BHR midpipe and the actual O2 sensor loosened just fine with a socket wrench but I cannot disconnect the other end where it clips into the electrical housing.
There are a few other clips like that on the car and I usually use a very small flat-head screwdriver to push down on the clip and then pull it out, but this will not budge. It does not look corroded or anything either.
Any ideas?
There are a few other clips like that on the car and I usually use a very small flat-head screwdriver to push down on the clip and then pull it out, but this will not budge. It does not look corroded or anything either.
Any ideas?
#1789
#225 of 1000
iTrader: (7)
So apparently i have conflicting results now,
i made a thread about 900 miles ago stating how my mechanic overfilled my oil by a considerable amount (i still have not added any oil since and i am just now beginning to become below the full line on the dipstick)
i got a few answers saying it wasnt a big deal, that any extra oil is injected into the maintenance ports... However recently i have gotten this noise...
And i have a feeling it might be the SSV, which is usually caused by ovefilling the oil correct?
please say it isnt so, it looks really complicated to remove and clean the SSV
i made a thread about 900 miles ago stating how my mechanic overfilled my oil by a considerable amount (i still have not added any oil since and i am just now beginning to become below the full line on the dipstick)
i got a few answers saying it wasnt a big deal, that any extra oil is injected into the maintenance ports... However recently i have gotten this noise...
And i have a feeling it might be the SSV, which is usually caused by ovefilling the oil correct?
please say it isnt so, it looks really complicated to remove and clean the SSV
#1790
US Navy Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
The ssv is very easy to get to and clean. Don't be intimidated by the looks of it. Only 10 bolts hold that on, but you will want a swivel head (universal) to get in at an angle. These cars are easy to work on. Those ten bolts are 10mm. You will also need to remove air filter and throttle body which are not that difficult either. I can give you step by step on how to do it. Just take your time and be patient.
#1791
Here's a tough one for you guys:
Does the AC compressor default to "on" whenever the fans are set to blow air at the windshield (defrost)?
If so - is there a way to prevent this from happening without doing some intensive surgery? I'd like the AC compressor to come on only when I specifically hit the button to turn it on.
Does the AC compressor default to "on" whenever the fans are set to blow air at the windshield (defrost)?
If so - is there a way to prevent this from happening without doing some intensive surgery? I'd like the AC compressor to come on only when I specifically hit the button to turn it on.
#1793
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iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
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110 Posts
It is a gasket change. You can either buy the updated gasket from the dealer and still have the problem eventually anyway (since the update just slowed the failure, didn't fix it), or you can follow one of the DIYs on here to permanently fix it.
#1794
Registered
Here's a tough one for you guys:
Does the AC compressor default to "on" whenever the fans are set to blow air at the windshield (defrost)?
If so - is there a way to prevent this from happening without doing some intensive surgery? I'd like the AC compressor to come on only when I specifically hit the button to turn it on.
Does the AC compressor default to "on" whenever the fans are set to blow air at the windshield (defrost)?
If so - is there a way to prevent this from happening without doing some intensive surgery? I'd like the AC compressor to come on only when I specifically hit the button to turn it on.
I know in our 98 eclipse, it is built in to the front defrost switch. I assume there is a wire that goes from the switch to the ac, but have not investigated which one it is or what happens if this were cut.
#1796
Registered
iTrader: (9)
So apparently i have conflicting results now,
i made a thread about 900 miles ago stating how my mechanic overfilled my oil by a considerable amount (i still have not added any oil since and i am just now beginning to become below the full line on the dipstick)
i got a few answers saying it wasnt a big deal, that any extra oil is injected into the maintenance ports... However recently i have gotten this noise...
Rx8 pulley noise - YouTube
And i have a feeling it might be the SSV, which is usually caused by ovefilling the oil correct?
please say it isnt so, it looks really complicated to remove and clean the SSV
i made a thread about 900 miles ago stating how my mechanic overfilled my oil by a considerable amount (i still have not added any oil since and i am just now beginning to become below the full line on the dipstick)
i got a few answers saying it wasnt a big deal, that any extra oil is injected into the maintenance ports... However recently i have gotten this noise...
Rx8 pulley noise - YouTube
And i have a feeling it might be the SSV, which is usually caused by ovefilling the oil correct?
please say it isnt so, it looks really complicated to remove and clean the SSV
#1797
In my (somewhat vain) attempts to really understand the mechanical workings of the RENESIS engine I've been digging around for information on how the intake system works - since I know this is the source of many of the problems people experience with these engines; with certian valves not opening/sticking or fluttering due to carbon build up. In the process I have come across this seemingly reliable PDF file : http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/C...0000001985.pdf
This document makes reference to both the 6 port and 4 port version of the RX8 - presumably because this document was written when only the series I RX8 were being made-likely as a marketing tool by mazda (however, the document lacks any dates that would indicate when it was actually published).
My question is this: since my car is a 2009, e.g. the Series II - it has 4 total fuel injectors and 4 total intake ports - as no 6 port version was put into the series II cars (at least this is my understanding). So does that mean that my engine (intake system mainly) behaves the SAME as the 4 port engines installed in the series I, or does it retain the additional variable intake system (the variable intake valve, the secondary shutter valve, the auxiliary shutter valve and the additional fresh air intake system) seen on series I 6 ports engines? Since the power output of the series I 4 port engine is lower than the 6 port, and the power output for my series II car is the same as that of the series I 6 port I'm inclined to guess that my series II engine retains all of the power-adding benefits of the more complex intake system found in series I 6 port engines.
Also, anyone care to comment on the reliability of the information in this document as well as any other deviations between what is written in it and what is found on series II cars? It looks to me that it was published by mazda, but I can't verify this.
This document makes reference to both the 6 port and 4 port version of the RX8 - presumably because this document was written when only the series I RX8 were being made-likely as a marketing tool by mazda (however, the document lacks any dates that would indicate when it was actually published).
My question is this: since my car is a 2009, e.g. the Series II - it has 4 total fuel injectors and 4 total intake ports - as no 6 port version was put into the series II cars (at least this is my understanding). So does that mean that my engine (intake system mainly) behaves the SAME as the 4 port engines installed in the series I, or does it retain the additional variable intake system (the variable intake valve, the secondary shutter valve, the auxiliary shutter valve and the additional fresh air intake system) seen on series I 6 ports engines? Since the power output of the series I 4 port engine is lower than the 6 port, and the power output for my series II car is the same as that of the series I 6 port I'm inclined to guess that my series II engine retains all of the power-adding benefits of the more complex intake system found in series I 6 port engines.
Also, anyone care to comment on the reliability of the information in this document as well as any other deviations between what is written in it and what is found on series II cars? It looks to me that it was published by mazda, but I can't verify this.
#1798
US Navy Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
I can add a whole 5+ quarts Castrol GTX. I let my oil drain overnight, and lift the front of the car up to drain more oil out of the oil coolers. I also have a oil filter relocation kit, with a larger oil filter. If just draining and filling. 4 quarts. You should always add all but last quart and then check dipstick and then add accordingly, while checking a few times. I do by quarter quarts.
Last edited by Hesselrode; 02-28-2013 at 10:59 AM.
#1800