Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#1701
While cleaning under my hood I found a few more things to ask about.
1st question:
Are our radiator caps supposed to let any kind of evap out or anything? When I turn my car off hot, and I go towards the cap, if I put my ear up to it I can hear a tiny bit of hissing like air escaping. Is this normal? I actually noticed a tiny bit of coolant drop in the past couple months. I think it started at the F mark maybe 3-4 months ago and now it is inbetween the F and L. I am going to be getting a compression test soon as well as changing the coolant hoses to silicone ones so hopefully I can eliminate those 2 variables as a possibility.
2nd question:
In this picture, look at this bundled wire. It looks like something started chomping on it, or burned off the electrical tape that was wrapping it. It doesnt appear to be damaged, but, is this the wire that leads to my starter? It appears to go into the abyss below my car. It feeds into a larger bundle which leads to the positive battery terminal so I figured its probably for my starter?
3rd question:
In this picture, you can see that the beginning of the stem that you add oil into is a bit moist/wet. If I rub my finger along it, it does appear to be oil. Does any one else experience this? My cap is always on there pretty tight too.
As always, thanks for checkin out my questions.
1st question:
Are our radiator caps supposed to let any kind of evap out or anything? When I turn my car off hot, and I go towards the cap, if I put my ear up to it I can hear a tiny bit of hissing like air escaping. Is this normal? I actually noticed a tiny bit of coolant drop in the past couple months. I think it started at the F mark maybe 3-4 months ago and now it is inbetween the F and L. I am going to be getting a compression test soon as well as changing the coolant hoses to silicone ones so hopefully I can eliminate those 2 variables as a possibility.
2nd question:
In this picture, look at this bundled wire. It looks like something started chomping on it, or burned off the electrical tape that was wrapping it. It doesnt appear to be damaged, but, is this the wire that leads to my starter? It appears to go into the abyss below my car. It feeds into a larger bundle which leads to the positive battery terminal so I figured its probably for my starter?
3rd question:
In this picture, you can see that the beginning of the stem that you add oil into is a bit moist/wet. If I rub my finger along it, it does appear to be oil. Does any one else experience this? My cap is always on there pretty tight too.
As always, thanks for checkin out my questions.
#1705
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Dumb question, but ever since i got the 8 had the TPMS light on. The guy i got it from said it was missing two of them, when i got my new tires they had said i only got two of them. I just put air in the tires with 40psi and my light is gone. Will the light go away if i did have only two? Or were they just dumbass' that didn't know what they were saying and said i only had two??
#1706
USMC
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Dumb question, but ever since i got the 8 had the TPMS light on. The guy i got it from said it was missing two of them, when i got my new tires they had said i only got two of them. I just put air in the tires with 40psi and my light is gone. Will the light go away if i did have only two? Or were they just dumbass' that didn't know what they were saying and said i only had two??
#1707
From what I've been reading, it seems that the cat's on these cars go bad quicker than others and can cause engine damage. So my question is would running a straight pipe be safer (if that correlation is entirely true)? I also read that there are fairly noticeable power gains for just straight piping and adding a CAI--is this true? And does it still hold with the 2009+ model?
//noob
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//noob
}
#1708
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
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mid pipe(no cat) is better for these engines and will provide the most hp gain other than fi/n02. cai dont give much if any power
#1710
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It will pop back up. If you have too low/high tire pressure or a malfunctioning/absence of a sensor then it will pop up. Two of mine **** the bed so I just didn't transfer them over to the new wheels. Just check your tires regularly and you should be fine. If the tire shop said you only have two, then I am sure you only have two. It would be pretty hard to overlook the sensor.
#1711
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I've got 53kms (not miles) on my 2003 RX8 6 speed and am achieving a solid 400kms per tank or 18mpg every time, is it worth changing the coils and plugs? has been previously serviced by the book by Mazda but not sure on the actual replacement of parts etc to my knowledge, im 2nd owner brought it at 50k
When the car is idling cold or hot i do hear the slight odd stutter or pop from the exhaust may be once every 5 seconds when standing out back but it doesn't run rough through the revs or with the Air Con on at idle. it does take a couple of seconds to fire up and has the bird chirp noise ive read about on fire up, but even only driving it once a week for a decent run it seems to start every time hot or after sitting for a week, always fill with premium gas and redline it few times when driving.
Ive done all the gbox, diff, engine oils and will be doing radiator and brake fluid next along with a mid pipe in the near future.
When the car is idling cold or hot i do hear the slight odd stutter or pop from the exhaust may be once every 5 seconds when standing out back but it doesn't run rough through the revs or with the Air Con on at idle. it does take a couple of seconds to fire up and has the bird chirp noise ive read about on fire up, but even only driving it once a week for a decent run it seems to start every time hot or after sitting for a week, always fill with premium gas and redline it few times when driving.
Ive done all the gbox, diff, engine oils and will be doing radiator and brake fluid next along with a mid pipe in the near future.
#1717
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Then back this up with some actual data
There have been some failed D585 coils on RX8's and I'm sure you'll find a more on other GM threads.
I'm not saying the D585 is not a great coil, but you can't just say you'll never need to change them again.
The OEM coils are now up to version "C"
#1718
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in his case, an 03 with 53k km the coils shouldn't have problem outlasting the engine.
#1719
Yellow looks faster.
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Does cold weather or altitude affect the ability to produce flames? Since I moved, its been always under 40F and usually around 20F. still get good pops, but no more flames.
#1721
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A couple more things to discuss.
Do you think things like frequently operating in excessively hot environments or seeing a lot of sustained high rpms at the track would reduce their life?
How about if their operating on a boosted motor?
In the predictive maintenance world electronics are considered to fail at random intervals. That is you can't necessarily test or check to see if they are failing.
Basically they work or they don't
I guess what I'm saying is, just because you have the D585 coils and/if you get a misfire it would remiss not to still check the coils with a HEI Coil Tester.
#1722
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I agree completly with what you said. There is no doubt any component being put under more stress ( excessive heat, more time in high rpm use ect.) will more often than not fail sooner than one that is put under less extreme conditions.
#1723
Is race roots still a vendor on this forum?
I planned on purchasing their high flow cat but cannot find a link to the thread I saw as well as I do not see their name listed under the vendor classifieds. I can always purchase from their website but wanted to know if there was a reason I do not see them there anymore.
I planned on purchasing their high flow cat but cannot find a link to the thread I saw as well as I do not see their name listed under the vendor classifieds. I can always purchase from their website but wanted to know if there was a reason I do not see them there anymore.
#1725
another question:
In my pursuit to diagnose my shaky idle and hot-start issues i have been trying to cover all bases with testing components. My starter is good, battery is good.
I had Advanced auto test my alternator today. Basically they just had me turn on everything to create the highest load possible and they said my alternator was great.
The only problem I saw was that when they disconnected all the components and i let it idle, i looked under the hood and the whole engine + upper intake manifold and everything attached to it was shaking in sync quite a lot. Is that normal?
The motor mounts are brand new OEM ones. I'm having a compression test done Tuesday, but that was the most I've ever seen it shake.
On another down side, I think my compressor is damaged .
In my pursuit to diagnose my shaky idle and hot-start issues i have been trying to cover all bases with testing components. My starter is good, battery is good.
I had Advanced auto test my alternator today. Basically they just had me turn on everything to create the highest load possible and they said my alternator was great.
The only problem I saw was that when they disconnected all the components and i let it idle, i looked under the hood and the whole engine + upper intake manifold and everything attached to it was shaking in sync quite a lot. Is that normal?
The motor mounts are brand new OEM ones. I'm having a compression test done Tuesday, but that was the most I've ever seen it shake.
On another down side, I think my compressor is damaged .