Umayrkaleem

all that reading and info. thanks a lot, really nice thread. this is what my face looked like as i was reading it. (click attached pic)

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Keep in mind that it's not intended to scare away everyone. Just people that have no business owning a quirky rotary

Those that can accept the problems, just need to be aware of them.

Umayrkaleem

yeah i know what you mean. Ive had a lot of people tell me and complain about the rx8 and random issues they had. but im 100% they had no clue what they were doing, and didnt even up keep with topping out on the oil. but so far 45k and i love the car. i race motorcycles so i got to sneak out the rx8 for a couple laps on the track before after the day was done sometimes. That was a lot of fun, I kinda wish it had less miles though because Id love to do a full track day on it or a few

rx82015

iTrader: (2)

Try disconnecting the battery for 10-15 minutes, resets everything. Problem could be a computer problem.

Nathan Atkins

Did a clutch Job this weekend and I have a weird vibration now, when i first started it there was hesitation when i let the clutch out for the first time and there was some vibration at idle. I actuated the clutch a few times and the vibration subsided. The engine was cold so it was idling at about 2k rpm. I was looking listening and smelling around the area for anything out of order for a minute or so. I climbed back into the car, at this point the idle had settled down to about 1200rpm, about 400rpm shy of warm idle speed. I brought the rpms up to about 3k and it was smooth going up, but then it shuddered on the way down. I let it idle some more which it did smoothly. I actuated the clutch a few more times, and tried bringing the revs up to 3k again and the same thing, vibrations on the way back down. I'm done with it for now though, I'll get back to it in the morning.

I did not remove the flywheel, but thinking back now, i was able to turn it with ease like a full rotation when i was putting the new pressure plate on, shouldn't I have been fighting the compression of the engine? Or is it possible the flywheel nut was turning on it's threads and the whole thing is loose? Man i dont want to have to pull this thing back off again

CoolWhip28

Someone is trying to sell me a RX 8 2004 Grand Touring edition with a little over 100k miles with a salvaged title in the state of California for 5000. It looks like rear end damage is the reason for the salvage.

Is that a bad deal?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Not a good deal unless it's for sale for less than $1,000. Salvage + unknown motor = nearly worthless.

barondidit

I want to get a new battery for my 04 rx8 auto, because its not holding a charge well anymore. I am looking at 2 batteries from Advanced Auto Parts. One is a AutoCraft Gold with 640 CCA's for 128.00 - 35% coupon. The other is an Optima Red Top "starting battery" with 720 CCA's at 210.00 - 50.00 discount coupon. I am inclined to buy the more expensive battery because it has more CCA's and I just installed an upgraded 2.0 kw Starter. Anyway, what exactly does "starting battery" mean? I would eventually like to hook up a 1000 watt amp for a sound system and just want to make sure that the fact it is a "starting battery" doesn't mean that Its not a good one to run an amp off of. Thanks for any suggestions and help. If I am going to spend 200.00 on a battery does someone have a better choice. I read that you can mod the battery box for a 35R battery that puts out 900 CCA's but there seems to be some disputes about airflow because of this. Also I did search around the net but could not find an answer, but I suspect its probably an easy answer for people with Automotive Knowledge. Thanks Again.

This IS a serious question. I am pretty sure there is an obvious answer, like, its called a "starter battery" because it has more CCA's than a stock battery. I just want to be sure.

ken-x8

If you want to run your amp with the engine off, you need a battery with a high amp hour rating, not high CCA. Also something that's deep discharge, like a marine trolling battery. Although at 1000 watts you're not going to get a whole lot of play time from any reasonable car-sized battery.

You've got the right idea about what "starting battery" means. Car batteries are generally starting batteries because that's what they're used for.

Ken

rx82015

iTrader: (2)

If youre looking to put a big stereo in, dont just go with a better battery, get a better alternator too. Better battery means nothing without something equally as good charging it.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

read up on ppf adjustment.

beers

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

I actually just adjusted my ppf to get rid of my clutch chatter.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

amazing the difference it makes.

you cant just slap stuff together anymore.

beers

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

As far as battery brands go, you are going to get a lot of different opinions. The red top is not much better than a good standard car battery in my opinion (I have one, and have had one in every car I've owned for a few years now.). Expect to get 3-5 years out of it. Although, I wouldn't recommend it for a heavy sound system. If you want to stay with optima, I would recommend a yellow top. It can handle heavy drains better and has a better chance of surviving. When talking batteries for sound you want a high amp/hour rating over CCA's. The "biggest" I managed to fit was a 34R. I had the battery for about 2.5 years now, just replaced it cause I got a new one for $30 and couldn't pass that deal up. The battery was starting to show signs of weakening though... The 34R will cover the bottom vent hole to some degree.. If you decide to go with the 34R you will need to make sure you get the battery tray that is suppose to come with it. It will give you the height you need to connect the terminals...

You will love the starter btw, I upgraded my starter and battery around the same time and it was a amazing difference.

(My starting video)



Thread on battery size...

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...series-187809/

navyboy2011

So i currently live in Rhode Island and im about to put a turbo into my 07 and i was wondering if anyone knew of a good shop up in this area to take it and get it tuned at.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

There is no shop in new england that will tune a turbocharged 8. Having spent 6 years in Rhode Island with my RX-8, I'm not just a random person spoutting off.

That being said, considering this is your first post, I sincerely hope you researched what you are getting into. It's not for the faint of heart, and it's not likely to end well. This engine is extremely fragile when you start adding boost, and not a single "turbo kit" out there will work correctly without modification. Plus, if you don't have Mazdaedit or an AccessPORT, you have zero chance of getting it to run right. None of the piggy backs will work. You might get the car to run, barely, but the factory ecu will end up countering everything the piggyback does and then boom, there goes your engine (assuming it doesn't blow on the dyno from the piggyback's deficiencies).

No, I'm not exagerating or lying. You have to get everything perfectly right the very first time, and it's a razor's edge of perfection where even the slightest slip or failure means that your engine blows, even if it's a freshly rebuilt one.

navyboy2011

Yes this was my first post but ive been doing my research and such i have worked with other 8s in the past and stuff im not completely new to it i just never used this site to ask questions as much as i used it as a guide. i really do appreciate the concern though. and you said there is none in new england? that is just my luck haha. being from NY is there one there? and considering there isnt one in NE would you recommend just taking it to a shop and paying them to put it on instead of installing it myself and taking it to a shop and having them tune it for me?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

If you are going to go forward with turboing, your two best bets are:
A) Bring everything to someone who has done it before and pay them to isntall everything, make the appropriate modifications, etc... and then pay a tuner to come to your car to tune it
B) Install everything yourself, taking painstakingly long to make sure you aren't messing anything up, and then pay a tuner to come tune your car.

There are only a handful of tuners in the US I'd trust with tuning a turbocharged 8, and none are within a day's drive of you. Tuning an RX-8 requires 3 different skills that individually aren't incredibly rare (tuning with the RX-8's ECU, tuning a rotary, and tuning for boost on a rotary), however it is rare that a tuner has all 3. Drop any 1 skill and you are more likely to be paying them to learn how to do that part of it, possibly costing you an engine in the process. There are many piston tuning principles that carry over, but there are twists and differences that can really trip up someone and cause major damage if they aren't aware of them.

I'm not going to toss out any names though, as they have regular jobs and are not actual shop tuners, so it would need to be a negociation with any of them, and they may not be interested at all.


Note: This is just my opinion, you will likely get other opinions from others here on the forum, so it would be best if you explored the Major Horsepower Upgrades subforum to see what challenges other people had and what solutions they found, and solicit opinions in that subforum once you have the basic knowledge you need to not get laughed off the thread (they can be harsh in there...)

bryan4140

iTrader: (2)

What would be the repercussions for getting rid of the rear 02 sensor?

From what I understand the rear o2 just checks to see if the emissions systems are doing their job. Would it just throw a cel?

The reason I ask is because I have my exhaust dumping out the hood (temporarily) roughly 18in after the turbo. I was going to weld a bung for the rear o2 sensor in to this last 18 inches but from what it looked like the rear o2 wires are wrapped up together with the wires for the trans/ shifter. I didn't want to pull that apart so this brings me here.

Is it okay to just disconnect the rear o2 sensor? or will I be creating other problems for myself.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Removing the rear O2 (or using a dead one) will throw a CEL, depending on what you did. Rear O2 circuit no response would be the main CEL. You may also see a slight drop in highway mileage, but we are talking 1mpg or less. You are correct that it's primary function is to determine if the cat is doing it's job, but it also does have a side effect of refining the air/fuel mix in closed loop when the engine has been at a steady state for a while. The rear O2 is a narrow band, and it reads in a faster loop than the front wideband.

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

Where did you get that info from? First I ever hear of the rear 02 doing that.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

It came to light in the "Lean burn with negative split timing" thread. The ECU was using the rear O2 to correct his force-lean condition, and he went digging further. I'll see if i can dig up the posts.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Here is the link to the direct post that is the key one of that part of the discussion: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-eng...4/#post4209124

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

Interesting.

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

Hmm MM posts right below saying that statement is not true... Who to believe?