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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 08:32 PM
  #1701  
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While cleaning under my hood I found a few more things to ask about.

1st question:
Are our radiator caps supposed to let any kind of evap out or anything? When I turn my car off hot, and I go towards the cap, if I put my ear up to it I can hear a tiny bit of hissing like air escaping. Is this normal? I actually noticed a tiny bit of coolant drop in the past couple months. I think it started at the F mark maybe 3-4 months ago and now it is inbetween the F and L. I am going to be getting a compression test soon as well as changing the coolant hoses to silicone ones so hopefully I can eliminate those 2 variables as a possibility.


2nd question:
In this picture, look at this bundled wire. It looks like something started chomping on it, or burned off the electrical tape that was wrapping it. It doesnt appear to be damaged, but, is this the wire that leads to my starter? It appears to go into the abyss below my car. It feeds into a larger bundle which leads to the positive battery terminal so I figured its probably for my starter?
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3rd question:
In this picture, you can see that the beginning of the stem that you add oil into is a bit moist/wet. If I rub my finger along it, it does appear to be oil. Does any one else experience this? My cap is always on there pretty tight too.
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As always, thanks for checkin out my questions.
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 02:25 AM
  #1702  
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Trouble starting when warm. Renton Mazda dealership says it failed compression test and needs a new engine. Gonna be parked a while....
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 06:46 AM
  #1703  
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From: Ontario
^^^ Another Renny down
Sorry to hear Steve
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Old Feb 3, 2013 | 12:39 PM
  #1704  
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From: Sherman Oaks, CA
I wonder if you'd be accessible to an MSP from Japan or Stateside?
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 09:47 AM
  #1705  
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From: hempstead, Tx
Dumb question, but ever since i got the 8 had the TPMS light on. The guy i got it from said it was missing two of them, when i got my new tires they had said i only got two of them. I just put air in the tires with 40psi and my light is gone. Will the light go away if i did have only two? Or were they just dumbass' that didn't know what they were saying and said i only had two??
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 11:45 AM
  #1706  
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Originally Posted by DR04RX8
Dumb question, but ever since i got the 8 had the TPMS light on. The guy i got it from said it was missing two of them, when i got my new tires they had said i only got two of them. I just put air in the tires with 40psi and my light is gone. Will the light go away if i did have only two? Or were they just dumbass' that didn't know what they were saying and said i only had two??
It will pop back up. If you have too low/high tire pressure or a malfunctioning/absence of a sensor then it will pop up. Two of mine **** the bed so I just didn't transfer them over to the new wheels. Just check your tires regularly and you should be fine. If the tire shop said you only have two, then I am sure you only have two. It would be pretty hard to overlook the sensor.
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 12:34 PM
  #1707  
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From what I've been reading, it seems that the cat's on these cars go bad quicker than others and can cause engine damage. So my question is would running a straight pipe be safer (if that correlation is entirely true)? I also read that there are fairly noticeable power gains for just straight piping and adding a CAI--is this true? And does it still hold with the 2009+ model?

//noob
}
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 12:39 PM
  #1708  
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mid pipe(no cat) is better for these engines and will provide the most hp gain other than fi/n02. cai dont give much if any power
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 01:00 PM
  #1709  
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Cool, that's what I wanted to hear
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 01:20 PM
  #1710  
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From: hempstead, Tx
Originally Posted by Johnvx1k
It will pop back up. If you have too low/high tire pressure or a malfunctioning/absence of a sensor then it will pop up. Two of mine **** the bed so I just didn't transfer them over to the new wheels. Just check your tires regularly and you should be fine. If the tire shop said you only have two, then I am sure you only have two. It would be pretty hard to overlook the sensor.
Well my light isn't back on, but when i was driving on the hwy, it started flashing but i also had my traction control completely off. I pulled over to a gas station, turned it off left my traction on and the light wasn't back. And if i don't have the two sensors, then my light should stay on cuz the ECU isn't getting any signal? But if i do have all 4, them my light should stay off unless i have low pressure, or high pressure right? Lol, sorry for restating all this.
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 05:39 PM
  #1711  
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I've got 53kms (not miles) on my 2003 RX8 6 speed and am achieving a solid 400kms per tank or 18mpg every time, is it worth changing the coils and plugs? has been previously serviced by the book by Mazda but not sure on the actual replacement of parts etc to my knowledge, im 2nd owner brought it at 50k

When the car is idling cold or hot i do hear the slight odd stutter or pop from the exhaust may be once every 5 seconds when standing out back but it doesn't run rough through the revs or with the Air Con on at idle. it does take a couple of seconds to fire up and has the bird chirp noise ive read about on fire up, but even only driving it once a week for a decent run it seems to start every time hot or after sitting for a week, always fill with premium gas and redline it few times when driving.

Ive done all the gbox, diff, engine oils and will be doing radiator and brake fluid next along with a mid pipe in the near future.
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 07:31 PM
  #1712  
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From: Wiscompton
do the BHR coils for the piece of mind. you will never have to replace them again.
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 07:54 PM
  #1713  
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Originally Posted by bryan4140
do the BHR coils for the piece of mind. you will never have to replace them again.
OMG what!!!!!!!!????!?!?!?!!?!?!?

This is totally wrong .. false .. no evidence ... incorrect

I know this is the no flame thread but this statement is absolutely bullshit
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 10:18 PM
  #1714  
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
I just re-read the first two pages - This thread has come a long way since then .
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Old Feb 4, 2013 | 11:20 PM
  #1715  
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From: Wiscompton
Originally Posted by wcs
OMG what!!!!!!!!????!?!?!?!!?!?!?

This is totally wrong .. false .. no evidence ... incorrect

I know this is the no flame thread but this statement is absolutely bullshit
how do you figure? plugs and wires will have to be replaced inevitably, but from my research the coils should be good for a very long time.
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 03:39 AM
  #1716  
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The OEM coils are good for 30,000 +/- miles. Mine went at 35,000. I opted for the BHR coils to get the added reliability.
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 05:52 AM
  #1717  
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Originally Posted by bryan4140
how do you figure? plugs and wires will have to be replaced inevitably, but from my research the coils should be good for a very long time.
A very long time is not forever ... and I would press you to both quantify what a very long time for you is? 5 years, 10 years?

Then back this up with some actual data

There have been some failed D585 coils on RX8's and I'm sure you'll find a more on other GM threads.

I'm not saying the D585 is not a great coil, but you can't just say you'll never need to change them again.

Originally Posted by kjb
The OEM coils are good for 30,000 +/- miles. Mine went at 35,000. I opted for the BHR coils to get the added reliability.
I think in the internet meme of the notorious white burn mark on the bottom of the coils lead to a lot of incorrect diagnosis during the earlier "A" version of the coils

The OEM coils are now up to version "C"
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Old Feb 5, 2013 | 06:36 PM
  #1718  
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From: Wiscompton
Originally Posted by wcs
A very long time is not forever ... and I would press you to both quantify what a very long time for you is? 5 years, 10 years?
what I meant by forever was the life of the engine. They are still one of the best options for replacing your coils.

Originally Posted by wcs
you can't just say you'll never need to change them again.
in his case, an 03 with 53k km the coils shouldn't have problem outlasting the engine.
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 12:11 AM
  #1719  
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Does cold weather or altitude affect the ability to produce flames? Since I moved, its been always under 40F and usually around 20F. still get good pops, but no more flames.
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 04:18 AM
  #1720  
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How heavy is the S1 transmission?
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 05:43 AM
  #1721  
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Originally Posted by bryan4140
what I meant by forever was the life of the engine. They are still one of the best options for replacing your coils.



in his case, an 03 with 53k km the coils shouldn't have problem outlasting the engine.
Ok,

A couple more things to discuss.

Do you think things like frequently operating in excessively hot environments or seeing a lot of sustained high rpms at the track would reduce their life?

How about if their operating on a boosted motor?

In the predictive maintenance world electronics are considered to fail at random intervals. That is you can't necessarily test or check to see if they are failing.
Basically they work or they don't

I guess what I'm saying is, just because you have the D585 coils and/if you get a misfire it would remiss not to still check the coils with a HEI Coil Tester.
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Old Feb 6, 2013 | 12:14 PM
  #1722  
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I agree completly with what you said. There is no doubt any component being put under more stress ( excessive heat, more time in high rpm use ect.) will more often than not fail sooner than one that is put under less extreme conditions.
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 03:05 PM
  #1723  
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Is race roots still a vendor on this forum?

I planned on purchasing their high flow cat but cannot find a link to the thread I saw as well as I do not see their name listed under the vendor classifieds. I can always purchase from their website but wanted to know if there was a reason I do not see them there anymore.
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 11:56 AM
  #1724  
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https://www.rx8club.com/race-roots-1...w-cats-242317/
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Old Feb 10, 2013 | 06:17 PM
  #1725  
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another question:

In my pursuit to diagnose my shaky idle and hot-start issues i have been trying to cover all bases with testing components. My starter is good, battery is good.

I had Advanced auto test my alternator today. Basically they just had me turn on everything to create the highest load possible and they said my alternator was great.

The only problem I saw was that when they disconnected all the components and i let it idle, i looked under the hood and the whole engine + upper intake manifold and everything attached to it was shaking in sync quite a lot. Is that normal?

The motor mounts are brand new OEM ones. I'm having a compression test done Tuesday, but that was the most I've ever seen it shake.

On another down side, I think my compressor is damaged .
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