Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
easy search on the google
Give it some penetrating oil first .. don't wanna snap bolt
site:rx8club.com ESS location
https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...eaning-206687/
https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...l-help-228928/
https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...my-ess-223416/
https://www.rx8club.com/trouble-shoo...t-idle-194505/
Give it some penetrating oil first .. don't wanna snap bolt
site:rx8club.com ESS location
https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...eaning-206687/
https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...l-help-228928/
https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...my-ess-223416/
https://www.rx8club.com/trouble-shoo...t-idle-194505/
^seems a little on the longer end. if you're car is an 04 it could have the "bad" starter. if not you could check your coils plugs and wires. if that doesn't fix your problem I would get a compression test soon.
Registered
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Lynnwood, WA
N/A power
I am getting a Mazda Remanufactured renesis for my 2004 RX8 MT soon, and am looking at mods to get while I have the engine out of the car.
How much power can I expect to be able to get out of an N/A renesis? I hear boost significantly decreases the life of the engine even when done properly and I daily my car so I want a little more longevity out of it. If I upgrade the secondary injectors with 500 cc injectors (390 cc stock?) and get an access port, can I take it to my local tuner and increase the rev limiter to like 11k, and just tune to pour more fuel in to make power past its current torque peak at like 8600 rpm? Obviously I would rarely get up to those rpms, so it should be less damaging to the engine in general right?
I have a racing beat lightened flywheel, K&N typhoon intake (although apparently this is actually worse than the stock airbox), and a racing beat exhaust to help it breathe.
Is this possible with the stock port sizes, or am I stuck with about 230-240 hp if I stay N/A?
I am sure this is on the forum somewhere, but I am apparently retarded with the search function and can't find a straight answer.
How much power can I expect to be able to get out of an N/A renesis? I hear boost significantly decreases the life of the engine even when done properly and I daily my car so I want a little more longevity out of it. If I upgrade the secondary injectors with 500 cc injectors (390 cc stock?) and get an access port, can I take it to my local tuner and increase the rev limiter to like 11k, and just tune to pour more fuel in to make power past its current torque peak at like 8600 rpm? Obviously I would rarely get up to those rpms, so it should be less damaging to the engine in general right?
I have a racing beat lightened flywheel, K&N typhoon intake (although apparently this is actually worse than the stock airbox), and a racing beat exhaust to help it breathe.
Is this possible with the stock port sizes, or am I stuck with about 230-240 hp if I stay N/A?
I am sure this is on the forum somewhere, but I am apparently retarded with the search function and can't find a straight answer.
I am getting a Mazda Remanufactured renesis for my 2004 RX8 MT soon, and am looking at mods to get while I have the engine out of the car.
How much power can I expect to be able to get out of an N/A renesis? I hear boost significantly decreases the life of the engine even when done properly and I daily my car so I want a little more longevity out of it. If I upgrade the secondary injectors with 500 cc injectors (390 cc stock?) and get an access port, can I take it to my local tuner and increase the rev limiter to like 11k, and just tune to pour more fuel in to make power past its current torque peak at like 8600 rpm? Obviously I would rarely get up to those rpms, so it should be less damaging to the engine in general right?
I have a racing beat lightened flywheel, K&N typhoon intake (although apparently this is actually worse than the stock airbox), and a racing beat exhaust to help it breathe.
Is this possible with the stock port sizes, or am I stuck with about 230-240 hp if I stay N/A?
I am sure this is on the forum somewhere, but I am apparently retarded with the search function and can't find a straight answer.
How much power can I expect to be able to get out of an N/A renesis? I hear boost significantly decreases the life of the engine even when done properly and I daily my car so I want a little more longevity out of it. If I upgrade the secondary injectors with 500 cc injectors (390 cc stock?) and get an access port, can I take it to my local tuner and increase the rev limiter to like 11k, and just tune to pour more fuel in to make power past its current torque peak at like 8600 rpm? Obviously I would rarely get up to those rpms, so it should be less damaging to the engine in general right?
I have a racing beat lightened flywheel, K&N typhoon intake (although apparently this is actually worse than the stock airbox), and a racing beat exhaust to help it breathe.
Is this possible with the stock port sizes, or am I stuck with about 230-240 hp if I stay N/A?
I am sure this is on the forum somewhere, but I am apparently retarded with the search function and can't find a straight answer.
1) The only two reliability mods which are significantly easier with the engine out are the oil pressure pellet mod and the water pump upgrade. However the dealer will be unlikely to agree to doing the oil pressure pellet, and the new water pump you will get is nearly equivalent to Mazmart's Remedy pump. So largely, nothing.
2) The power limitations are noted in the new owner's thread and the newbie modding guide. NA with no mods you can expect around 180-190whp, hope for 200whp. A better tune and no cat will add maybe 10whp to this. You can get to a max of about 235whp with race-quality ECU, anti-friction treatments on the various gears, and custom designed intake/exhaust (not just custom, but actual correct R+D stuff race teams get to)
3) Yes, any boost will decrease the life expectancy
4) If you want a list of things to help lengthen the life of your engine, see post #9 in my new owner's thread. I list out all the reasonable things you can do
5) Technically, yes, you can "just" put in the larger injectors and "just" have a tuner increase the rev limit to 11k. It is stupid though, as your intake system (from throttle to ports) aren't designed for flow up that high so power will be falling quickly, and rotor tips have been known to contact the housing over 9,000rpm, which means internal engine damage. All risk with no real gain.
6) yes, the K&N intake is worse than stock. You will gain power by going back to stock.
7) If the Racing Beat exhaust is just the cat-back, then you aren't gaining any power from it. Add a midpipe and headers and you will gain a little bit. See my newbie's modding thread
8) If you can get to 230-240whp from an NA RX-8 you will join a pretty exclusive list. Most of the people that got there had hundreds of thousands in sponsor funding and hundreds of dyno hours designing and testing everything they could. 210whp is a more realistic target, and you can be proud of getting there.
See my signature for the thread links I mentioned.
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Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Lynnwood, WA
So, for starters, you are going to have to correct your thinking on quite a bit...
1) The only two reliability mods which are significantly easier with the engine out are the oil pressure pellet mod and the water pump upgrade. However the dealer will be unlikely to agree to doing the oil pressure pellet, and the new water pump you will get is nearly equivalent to Mazmart's Remedy pump. So largely, nothing.
2) The power limitations are noted in the new owner's thread and the newbie modding guide. NA with no mods you can expect around 180-190whp, hope for 200whp. A better tune and no cat will add maybe 10whp to this. You can get to a max of about 235whp with race-quality ECU, anti-friction treatments on the various gears, and custom designed intake/exhaust (not just custom, but actual correct R+D stuff race teams get to)
3) Yes, any boost will decrease the life expectancy
4) If you want a list of things to help lengthen the life of your engine, see post #9 in my new owner's thread. I list out all the reasonable things you can do
5) Technically, yes, you can "just" put in the larger injectors and "just" have a tuner increase the rev limit to 11k. It is stupid though, as your intake system (from throttle to ports) aren't designed for flow up that high so power will be falling quickly, and rotor tips have been known to contact the housing over 9,000rpm, which means internal engine damage. All risk with no real gain.
6) yes, the K&N intake is worse than stock. You will gain power by going back to stock.
7) If the Racing Beat exhaust is just the cat-back, then you aren't gaining any power from it. Add a midpipe and headers and you will gain a little bit. See my newbie's modding thread
8) If you can get to 230-240whp from an NA RX-8 you will join a pretty exclusive list. Most of the people that got there had hundreds of thousands in sponsor funding and hundreds of dyno hours designing and testing everything they could. 210whp is a more realistic target, and you can be proud of getting there.
See my signature for the thread links I mentioned.
1) The only two reliability mods which are significantly easier with the engine out are the oil pressure pellet mod and the water pump upgrade. However the dealer will be unlikely to agree to doing the oil pressure pellet, and the new water pump you will get is nearly equivalent to Mazmart's Remedy pump. So largely, nothing.
2) The power limitations are noted in the new owner's thread and the newbie modding guide. NA with no mods you can expect around 180-190whp, hope for 200whp. A better tune and no cat will add maybe 10whp to this. You can get to a max of about 235whp with race-quality ECU, anti-friction treatments on the various gears, and custom designed intake/exhaust (not just custom, but actual correct R+D stuff race teams get to)
3) Yes, any boost will decrease the life expectancy
4) If you want a list of things to help lengthen the life of your engine, see post #9 in my new owner's thread. I list out all the reasonable things you can do
5) Technically, yes, you can "just" put in the larger injectors and "just" have a tuner increase the rev limit to 11k. It is stupid though, as your intake system (from throttle to ports) aren't designed for flow up that high so power will be falling quickly, and rotor tips have been known to contact the housing over 9,000rpm, which means internal engine damage. All risk with no real gain.
6) yes, the K&N intake is worse than stock. You will gain power by going back to stock.
7) If the Racing Beat exhaust is just the cat-back, then you aren't gaining any power from it. Add a midpipe and headers and you will gain a little bit. See my newbie's modding thread
8) If you can get to 230-240whp from an NA RX-8 you will join a pretty exclusive list. Most of the people that got there had hundreds of thousands in sponsor funding and hundreds of dyno hours designing and testing everything they could. 210whp is a more realistic target, and you can be proud of getting there.
See my signature for the thread links I mentioned.
How do other people get high power N/A rotaries? I see articles around about rotaries that can spin to 12k and make power up there... Lightened rotors, apex seals, porting etc?
My current motor still runs (somehow, it's got 150k miles on it XD), so I'm not opposed to doing some major work to this new motor over time outside of the car and putting it in as soon as my current one dies or I am satisfied with the new one. My friend just built a boosted K24 civic that puts down 300+ hp and don't want to get stomped on too hard haha
Thanks! So there isn't really an easy way to make more power N/A, but you recommend water/oil pumps for reliability. Either a local shop or myself are putting in the motor, so I can put any modifications on that I want. I am only buying the motor through Mazda.
How do other people get high power N/A rotaries? I see articles around about rotaries that can spin to 12k and make power up there... Lightened rotors, apex seals, porting etc?
My current motor still runs (somehow, it's got 150k miles on it XD), so I'm not opposed to doing some major work to this new motor over time outside of the car and putting it in as soon as my current one dies or I am satisfied with the new one. My friend just built a boosted K24 civic that puts down 300+ hp and don't want to get stomped on too hard haha
How do other people get high power N/A rotaries? I see articles around about rotaries that can spin to 12k and make power up there... Lightened rotors, apex seals, porting etc?
My current motor still runs (somehow, it's got 150k miles on it XD), so I'm not opposed to doing some major work to this new motor over time outside of the car and putting it in as soon as my current one dies or I am satisfied with the new one. My friend just built a boosted K24 civic that puts down 300+ hp and don't want to get stomped on too hard haha
You can balance the rotating assembly..and it will make it more reliable...same with increasing the oil pressure and water pump...but as far as power goes like was said...you get to about 210rwhp and that's mostly it
Thanks! So there isn't really an easy way to make more power N/A, but you recommend water/oil pumps for reliability. Either a local shop or myself are putting in the motor, so I can put any modifications on that I want. I am only buying the motor through Mazda.
How do other people get high power N/A rotaries? I see articles around about rotaries that can spin to 12k and make power up there... Lightened rotors, apex seals, porting etc?
My current motor still runs (somehow, it's got 150k miles on it XD), so I'm not opposed to doing some major work to this new motor over time outside of the car and putting it in as soon as my current one dies or I am satisfied with the new one. My friend just built a boosted K24 civic that puts down 300+ hp and don't want to get stomped on too hard haha
How do other people get high power N/A rotaries? I see articles around about rotaries that can spin to 12k and make power up there... Lightened rotors, apex seals, porting etc?
My current motor still runs (somehow, it's got 150k miles on it XD), so I'm not opposed to doing some major work to this new motor over time outside of the car and putting it in as soon as my current one dies or I am satisfied with the new one. My friend just built a boosted K24 civic that puts down 300+ hp and don't want to get stomped on too hard haha
Again, as I noted, see my sig, the new owner's thread, post #9 is the list of reasonable things you can do to keep your engine healthy. Some of those can be done on a rebuild, some are things to do over the life of the engine.
The #1 "trick" to the race teams that get the 230+whp is that they treat the transmission gears and diff gears (and probably the internal stationary gears in the motor) with 1 or 2 levels of anti-friction coatings. (I forget the treatment terms at the moment) Drivetrain loss is fairly big for the rotary and gets bigger the faster the engine spins, and they minimize this quite a bit more than most people would expect. But, you are also talking huge bucks.
Every single other area that they milk power from is like squeezing tears from rocks. They come in 1-2whp increments with lots of incredibly fine tuning of hardware and software with ECUs that typically start at $5,000 and go northward of $25,000.
Nearly all of these are worthless if you aren't getting a proper engine build, and if you are getting a Mazda reman, you aren't getting a proper engine build. Take a look at this for an idea of the Mazda reman quality: https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...an-22k-241414/ A Mazda reman is one of the worst possible starting quality engines you can get. Sloppy work, insufficient seal clearances, and questionable used parts that shouldn't have been re-used. The only reason to get one is if it's free.
If you are serious about wanting to make more than ~210whp, you need to pony up $5k-$10k for a top notch engine build from one of the top people in the business, and there are only a few names that can actually do it, though dozens think they can.This will get you to a starting number around 210-215whp, and then you will have to pay through the nose to get another 5-10whp.
12k rpm rotaries are possible, but largely drag cars only, used only for short bursts and have highly balanced assemblies with frequent rebuild times. None of which you can expect to deal with. Keep in mind that you can get, at most, a power band of about 4-5,000 rpm. If you rev to 12,000rpm, then your power band will have just shifted to ~7,000-12,000rpm, rather than 4,000-9,000rpm. Your heat generation will have skyrocketed, your drivetrain loss went right along with that, and you will have completely lost any ability to have the car function under ~3,000rpm. Your idle alone would probably have to be up to ~2,000rpm. Most of those rotaries you reference are also peripheral port 13bs, which can flow LOTS more exhaust than the Renesis in an RX-8 can (which has much smaller side ports that can't be enlarged much at all).
Your buddy with a 300whp Civic will thrash you every time in the straights, because he will have a far superior power to weight ratio that you can't compete with without going to forced induction. (He has more power and less weight).
Re-think everything, get your goals in place before you start laying down money. Your choice is pretty simple in the end: Be happy with what you got, or trade up for something else that will make you happy.
What specific type of double-sided tape would you guys recommend to use to mount the upper portion of a front lip? I've read about people using 3M tapes, but the choices vary. I'm specifically looking for something that will bond very strong, yet removable in the future without having to worry about damaging my front bumper paint.
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 6
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From: Thurrock, UK
warm start leads me to believe you have low compression, get the compression checked..
our engines have higher compression when cold, as the engine gets warmer, the metal in the engine expands with the heat and the seals start to lose contact with the housing.
if its not a compression issue, then change out the coils plugs and wires if they have not been changed within 30k miles.
our engines have higher compression when cold, as the engine gets warmer, the metal in the engine expands with the heat and the seals start to lose contact with the housing.
if its not a compression issue, then change out the coils plugs and wires if they have not been changed within 30k miles.
Got compression results looks like its fit for the scrap yard, will blast with sea foam but not holding much hope
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 356
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From: Ohio
I have an UltraGauge to monitor engine temperature and other parameters more closely than the factory gauges allow, my question is what should the normal readings be? I'm seeing an average water temp around 180 degrees F (ambient temp around 30-40 F), and bank 1 sensor 2 catalytic convert temps around 1500-1600 degrees. Are these normal for these motors? What other parameters should I monitor to help spot trouble before it gets really bad?
Do rotary engines still use gas when you lift off the gas pedal and keep the car in gear, or like modern 4 cycle engines, are the fuel injectors shut off completely? I see some evidence via instantaneous MPGs that gas is still being consumed even without throttle application.
What RPM range would be consider "lugging" a rotary motor? Same as that for piston engines (under 2,000)?
Do rotary engines still use gas when you lift off the gas pedal and keep the car in gear, or like modern 4 cycle engines, are the fuel injectors shut off completely? I see some evidence via instantaneous MPGs that gas is still being consumed even without throttle application.
What RPM range would be consider "lugging" a rotary motor? Same as that for piston engines (under 2,000)?
Last edited by poacherinthezoo; Jan 10, 2013 at 08:58 PM.
I have an UltraGauge to monitor engine temperature and other parameters more closely than the factory gauges allow, my question is what should the normal readings be? I'm seeing an average water temp around 180 degrees F (ambient temp around 30-40 F), and bank 1 sensor 2 catalytic convert temps around 1500-1600 degrees. Are these normal for these motors? What other parameters should I monitor to help spot trouble before it gets really bad?
Do rotary engines still use gas when you lift off the gas pedal and keep the car in gear, or like modern 4 cycle engines, are the fuel injectors shut off completely? I see some evidence via instantaneous MPGs that gas is still being consumed even without throttle application.
What RPM range would be consider "lugging" a rotary motor? Same as that for piston engines (under 2,000)?
Do rotary engines still use gas when you lift off the gas pedal and keep the car in gear, or like modern 4 cycle engines, are the fuel injectors shut off completely? I see some evidence via instantaneous MPGs that gas is still being consumed even without throttle application.
What RPM range would be consider "lugging" a rotary motor? Same as that for piston engines (under 2,000)?
my intake is around 46-58 (30-40 amb F)
my cat bank 1 sensor is reading at 1500-1600 as well, under load i think i saw it reach 1800.
looks like you are all good.
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 356
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From: Ohio
You can always rebuild.. cheaper than buying a new car.
my coolant temp is around 177-185 on the highway, ive hit 205 in traffic in NYC, but turning on the heat full blast with defrost on lowered it to 195.
my intake is around 46-58 (30-40 amb F)
my cat bank 1 sensor is reading at 1500-1600 as well, under load i think i saw it reach 1800.
looks like you are all good.
my coolant temp is around 177-185 on the highway, ive hit 205 in traffic in NYC, but turning on the heat full blast with defrost on lowered it to 195.
my intake is around 46-58 (30-40 amb F)
my cat bank 1 sensor is reading at 1500-1600 as well, under load i think i saw it reach 1800.
looks like you are all good.
In my miata 205 F was the point where the fans kicked on to high. It sounds like hitting 205 F with a rotary is in the danger zone for warping. Above what temperature should I start to take evasive action to avoid warping the rotor housing?
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 6
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From: Thurrock, UK
Guy's need your view on these results, is it worth a crack with sea foam or is it fit for the scrapyard?
Front rotor
First chamber
363.29
Second chamber
518.84
Third chamber
385.22
Chamber difference 155.55
Back rotor
First chamber
483.64
Second chamber
556.58
Third chamber
507.7
Chamber difference 72.95
Rotor difference
37.75
250RPM
Any advice welcome, as I'm not great with rotaries.
Rebuild is not on the agenda as it will cost £3000 and I only paid £1300 for the car
Thanks
PS is in KPA
Front rotor
First chamber
363.29
Second chamber
518.84
Third chamber
385.22
Chamber difference 155.55
Back rotor
First chamber
483.64
Second chamber
556.58
Third chamber
507.7
Chamber difference 72.95
Rotor difference
37.75
250RPM
Any advice welcome, as I'm not great with rotaries.
Rebuild is not on the agenda as it will cost £3000 and I only paid £1300 for the car
Thanks
PS is in KPA
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Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
whats up with this advertisement on this site? supercharger for 179.99 to blow up your engine or is it legit where you will gain some hp! as people say when its too good to be true it prolly is!
check this link and comment please!
Mazda RX-8 Supercharger Kit Electric RX-8 Turbo Charger Bolt On
check this link and comment please!
Mazda RX-8 Supercharger Kit Electric RX-8 Turbo Charger Bolt On
I know it's the dumb question thread, so I really need to avoid flaming you.
So I will simply say that it's a scam. 100% scam.
I mean really... what part of this makes any sense?
See the modding link in my signature for the basics if you are looking to learn about what you can do. The first 1/3rd is dedicated to how to make more power.
So I will simply say that it's a scam. 100% scam.
I mean really... what part of this makes any sense?
You shouldn’t worry yourself dead since there is still room for improvement for your lovely Mazda RX8 car. The master RX8 supercharger kit has completely conquered the motoring scene a new dawn is here. The bolt on superchargers is now the household name for your engine power and necessary throttle response you can embrace. This RX8 supercharger ups the combustion hence giving you the torque and horsepower you seriously need to dive powerfully. The RX8 superchargers stock is not limited either, there is a great range for you to pick one of your best selection. When you decide to install this RX8 electric supercharger, you have to know that it’s the best supercharging modification your car requires to deliver on performance and speed. This kit come with its magic you desperately need to wake up the sleeping power in your car. It’s important to know that it only takes a few minutes to install this gadget on your car and reap the fruits of your investment in a flash.
See the modding link in my signature for the basics if you are looking to learn about what you can do. The first 1/3rd is dedicated to how to make more power.
Right now, I'm running a Borla cat-back exhaust on my RX-8. My question is that if I run a mid pipe, will my exhaust shrouds be in any risk of melting? I really don't want to cut or modify my shrouds by any means. I'm considering between the Racing Beat REV.V2 dual resonated pipe or the BHR resonated pipe with an additional O2 bung without the catalyst.
Right now, I'm running a Borla cat-back exhaust on my RX-8. My question is that if I run a mid pipe, will my exhaust shrouds be in any risk of melting? I really don't want to cut or modify my shrouds by any means. I'm considering between the Racing Beat REV.V2 dual resonated pipe or the BHR resonated pipe with an additional O2 bung without the catalyst.
Will they be at risk? Yes. Are they guaranteed to melt? No. I am running the RR Single exit with the Racing Beat Dual Resonated pipe and I have popped many a flames and I have not seen any melting. Those two are great choices and from what I have heard, the BHR is the best one on the market and it only uses one resonator, but barely changes the sound of the exhaust tone. Also the resonator on the BHR midpipe does not contain stainless steel packing, so it will not blow out and change the tone of the exhaust. I have had my RB mid for a little under a year and I love it. Noticed a slight change in tone when I installed it, but I have not had any problems besides the second resonator scraping the ground on occasion.