Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
02-13-2011, 11:15 AM
#351
WCS, I will next week (I have a big certification exam on Tuesday, and I shouldn't be wasting time ehre) .... it will be akin to a discussion on COBB as a tuning tool for FI, and ideal MAF assembly placement in an FI application... this is a sensitive topic as it will touch on fact that COBB is a less than ideal poor solution for turbo (in terms of reliability of the system) and it may get the COBB fanboi's wrath down on me....
Check out what this guy did https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/rear-mount-turbo-project-204248/
I honestly feel that this is the best (and only way) Turbo should be done when tuning with COBB.... note the length of his almost straight pipe before the MAF sensor....
the greddy pull through design is POS in comparison ...
Some discussion I was having with a few fellow members:
... the stock greddy design works fine as long as you don't get a vacuum leak between ur MAF and turbo.... personally, I don't like betting the life of my engine on a piece of pipe and silicone connector. Vac leak between MAF and compressor = more air going into your engine than your ECU "sees", and if you tuned before the leak surfaced, you can lean out and go boom
The standard rx8 ECU (and COBB) is MAF based ... although this makes tunning a shitton easier, this is FAR from ideal for an FI application.... either way, I am seriously considering modifying the Greddy design and moving the MAF sensor to a better place... BUT its a catch 22, as the MAF needs to see turbulent free air, as your two options are:
1) Keep it in the stock greddy location. It reports the wrong temps, and you run at a risk because of vac leaks, etc. BUT airflow is accurate.
2)Put it after turbo, intercooler, and BOV. It reports correct temps and there is VERY little risk of vac leaks contributing to incorrect readings. BUT you better have a piece of LONG, straight pipe before your MAF as turbulence greatly affects the accuracy of readings
*Disclaimer* I have a COBB, it is awesome for everything, as long as you are N/A and/or supercharged (to an extent), however, I feel that it is a poor solution for turbo. Can it get the job done? Yes. Can it do so reliably ie, if you introduce variables that can be foreseen into the system (like vac leaks)? NO! BTW, you will get vac leaks eventually, its not a question of IF, but a question of WHEN
Conclusion: COBB, as a tuning solution for TURBO can never be as reliable as a MAP based system. PERIOD.
Solutions:
1) get MAP based tuning solution, so you do not have to worry about this
OR
2) Sell rx8, buy FD
What are your opinions?
Ahh hell ... I am starting a new thread ... there is no way to open a can of worms halfway...
Thread: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-engine-tuning-forum-63/cobb-turbo-tuning-solution-ideal-maf-placement-211847/#post3879982
Check out what this guy did https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-major-horsepower-upgrades-93/rear-mount-turbo-project-204248/
I honestly feel that this is the best (and only way) Turbo should be done when tuning with COBB.... note the length of his almost straight pipe before the MAF sensor....
the greddy pull through design is POS in comparison ...
Some discussion I was having with a few fellow members:
... the stock greddy design works fine as long as you don't get a vacuum leak between ur MAF and turbo.... personally, I don't like betting the life of my engine on a piece of pipe and silicone connector. Vac leak between MAF and compressor = more air going into your engine than your ECU "sees", and if you tuned before the leak surfaced, you can lean out and go boom
The standard rx8 ECU (and COBB) is MAF based ... although this makes tunning a shitton easier, this is FAR from ideal for an FI application.... either way, I am seriously considering modifying the Greddy design and moving the MAF sensor to a better place... BUT its a catch 22, as the MAF needs to see turbulent free air, as your two options are:
1) Keep it in the stock greddy location. It reports the wrong temps, and you run at a risk because of vac leaks, etc. BUT airflow is accurate.
2)Put it after turbo, intercooler, and BOV. It reports correct temps and there is VERY little risk of vac leaks contributing to incorrect readings. BUT you better have a piece of LONG, straight pipe before your MAF as turbulence greatly affects the accuracy of readings
*Disclaimer* I have a COBB, it is awesome for everything, as long as you are N/A and/or supercharged (to an extent), however, I feel that it is a poor solution for turbo. Can it get the job done? Yes. Can it do so reliably ie, if you introduce variables that can be foreseen into the system (like vac leaks)? NO! BTW, you will get vac leaks eventually, its not a question of IF, but a question of WHEN
Conclusion: COBB, as a tuning solution for TURBO can never be as reliable as a MAP based system. PERIOD.
Solutions:
1) get MAP based tuning solution, so you do not have to worry about this
OR
2) Sell rx8, buy FD
What are your opinions?
Ahh hell ... I am starting a new thread ... there is no way to open a can of worms halfway...
Thread: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-engine-tuning-forum-63/cobb-turbo-tuning-solution-ideal-maf-placement-211847/#post3879982
Last edited by stinksause; 02-13-2011 at 11:59 AM.
02-13-2011, 12:01 PM
#352
Yellow RX8
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Ummmm I can see now what you speak of ... it was poorly written.
I was referring to the entire maf assembly/housing/plastic piece and that the IAT sensor was the tear drop looking thing "it's with the maf sensor" (poorly written, yes. I was not directly referencing the Maf sensor but the entire unit).
I indicated that the maf itself was way up inside.
I think I answered it this way because the first part of the question was "where is the stock IAT sensor located?".
My first thought was it's with the MAF sensor. <shrug> ... anyways
Still a grammar fail ... so a double it is
@Stinksause .... what is your concern? post linky if you start a new thread
I was referring to the entire maf assembly/housing/plastic piece and that the IAT sensor was the tear drop looking thing "it's with the maf sensor" (poorly written, yes. I was not directly referencing the Maf sensor but the entire unit).
I indicated that the maf itself was way up inside.
I think I answered it this way because the first part of the question was "where is the stock IAT sensor located?".
My first thought was it's with the MAF sensor. <shrug> ... anyways
Still a grammar fail ... so a double it is
@Stinksause .... what is your concern? post linky if you start a new thread
The cut out part of the bottom tube is where the MAF is, and that little thing inside of the tube is the IAT, the other half of that assembly.. I just remember the tear drop sensor as the MAF because thats where all the air is wooshing by
02-13-2011, 03:55 PM
#354
Auto to manual swapped
02-13-2011, 04:17 PM
#355
WCS, I will next week (I have a big certification exam on Tuesday, and I shouldn't be wasting time ehre) .... it will be akin to a discussion on COBB as a tuning tool for FI, and ideal MAF assembly placement in an FI application... this is a sensitive topic as it will touch on fact that COBB is a less than ideal poor solution for turbo (in terms of reliability of the system) and it may get the COBB fanboi's wrath down on me....
Check out what this guy did https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=204248
I honestly feel that this is the best (and only way) Turbo should be done when tuning with COBB.... note the length of his almost straight pipe before the MAF sensor....
the greddy pull through design is POS in comparison ...
Some discussion I was having with a few fellow members:
... the stock greddy design works fine as long as you don't get a vacuum leak between ur MAF and turbo.... personally, I don't like betting the life of my engine on a piece of pipe and silicone connector. Vac leak between MAF and compressor = more air going into your engine than your ECU "sees", and if you tuned before the leak surfaced, you can lean out and go boom
The standard rx8 ECU (and COBB) is MAF based ... although this makes tunning a shitton easier, this is FAR from ideal for an FI application.... either way, I am seriously considering modifying the Greddy design and moving the MAF sensor to a better place... BUT its a catch 22, as the MAF needs to see turbulent free air, as your two options are:
1) Keep it in the stock greddy location. It reports the wrong temps, and you run at a risk because of vac leaks, etc. BUT airflow is accurate.
2)Put it after turbo, intercooler, and BOV. It reports correct temps and there is VERY little risk of vac leaks contributing to incorrect readings. BUT you better have a piece of LONG, straight pipe before your MAF as turbulence greatly affects the accuracy of readings
*Disclaimer* I have a COBB, it is awesome for everything, as long as you are N/A and/or supercharged (to an extent), however, I feel that it is a poor solution for turbo. Can it get the job done? Yes. Can it do so reliably ie, if you introduce variables that can be foreseen into the system (like vac leaks)? NO! BTW, you will get vac leaks eventually, its not a question of IF, but a question of WHEN
Conclusion: COBB, as a tuning solution for TURBO can never be as reliable as a MAP based system. PERIOD.
Solutions:
1) get MAP based tuning solution, so you do not have to worry about this
OR
2) Sell rx8, buy FD
What are your opinions?
Ahh hell ... I am starting a new thread ... there is no way to open a can of worms halfway...
Thread: https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?p=3879982
Check out what this guy did https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=204248
I honestly feel that this is the best (and only way) Turbo should be done when tuning with COBB.... note the length of his almost straight pipe before the MAF sensor....
the greddy pull through design is POS in comparison ...
Some discussion I was having with a few fellow members:
... the stock greddy design works fine as long as you don't get a vacuum leak between ur MAF and turbo.... personally, I don't like betting the life of my engine on a piece of pipe and silicone connector. Vac leak between MAF and compressor = more air going into your engine than your ECU "sees", and if you tuned before the leak surfaced, you can lean out and go boom
The standard rx8 ECU (and COBB) is MAF based ... although this makes tunning a shitton easier, this is FAR from ideal for an FI application.... either way, I am seriously considering modifying the Greddy design and moving the MAF sensor to a better place... BUT its a catch 22, as the MAF needs to see turbulent free air, as your two options are:
1) Keep it in the stock greddy location. It reports the wrong temps, and you run at a risk because of vac leaks, etc. BUT airflow is accurate.
2)Put it after turbo, intercooler, and BOV. It reports correct temps and there is VERY little risk of vac leaks contributing to incorrect readings. BUT you better have a piece of LONG, straight pipe before your MAF as turbulence greatly affects the accuracy of readings
*Disclaimer* I have a COBB, it is awesome for everything, as long as you are N/A and/or supercharged (to an extent), however, I feel that it is a poor solution for turbo. Can it get the job done? Yes. Can it do so reliably ie, if you introduce variables that can be foreseen into the system (like vac leaks)? NO! BTW, you will get vac leaks eventually, its not a question of IF, but a question of WHEN
Conclusion: COBB, as a tuning solution for TURBO can never be as reliable as a MAP based system. PERIOD.
Solutions:
1) get MAP based tuning solution, so you do not have to worry about this
OR
2) Sell rx8, buy FD
What are your opinions?
Ahh hell ... I am starting a new thread ... there is no way to open a can of worms halfway...
Thread: https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?p=3879982
I'm grabbing the popcorn and heading over to this thread NOW!
:D
02-14-2011, 09:00 AM
#357
My clutch engagement point has shifted. Usually when im in first and release clutch i start moving at about half way. Now its about 3/4 clutch out. Is this normal ?? I never ride my clutch. Even when im moving from a start i never use gas i just slowly release clutch to get moving.
Also, lets say im in 3rd. You know if you clutch in and clutch out very quickly you get a tire chirp. It doesnt do this anymore.
Any help
Also, lets say im in 3rd. You know if you clutch in and clutch out very quickly you get a tire chirp. It doesnt do this anymore.
Any help
02-14-2011, 12:44 PM
#358
My clutch engagement point has shifted. Usually when im in first and release clutch i start moving at about half way. Now its about 3/4 clutch out. Is this normal ?? I never ride my clutch. Even when im moving from a start i never use gas i just slowly release clutch to get moving.
Also, lets say im in 3rd. You know if you clutch in and clutch out very quickly you get a tire chirp. It doesnt do this anymore.
Any help
Also, lets say im in 3rd. You know if you clutch in and clutch out very quickly you get a tire chirp. It doesnt do this anymore.
Any help
*You could have air in your hydraulic system
*The clutch could be worn out
*Clutch pedal could need adjustment (unlikely it would get that far out of adjustment however)
02-18-2011, 02:56 PM
#360
Speed is all you FN NEED
Join Date: Oct 2007
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...the aftermarket vented hoods....where does the water go if it rains and you park outside...no garage. Those that have them...have you ever had any problems with water???
02-18-2011, 03:01 PM
#361
Yellow RX8
Join Date: Sep 2010
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I was at a meet last night, and it was pouring down rain, and one of the guys had a carbon fiber, 6 vented hood, if you know what I'm talking about.. And he left it running for a little while.. Anyways, its not going to hurt the engine or anything.. It's only if you use a high pressure hose to wash your engine bay, thats a big no no. But you can use a regular hose to wash the engine bay
Anyways, its only water, your engine wont melt
Forgot to answer the question... with the help of gravity, water goes down... so, it'll trickle down to the lowest point, and the heat of the engine will turn it into steam
Anyways, its only water, your engine wont melt
Forgot to answer the question... with the help of gravity, water goes down... so, it'll trickle down to the lowest point, and the heat of the engine will turn it into steam
Last edited by superhypered; 02-18-2011 at 03:04 PM.
02-21-2011, 01:10 AM
#363
Administrator
iTrader: (7)
1. It can do just about anything / everything when it comes to re-programming an RX-8. You know how some people run "piggy back" systems? this is like that only less complicated and easier to install / uninstall.
2. VERY easily if you don't know what you're doing. If you use a pre-made map from Cobb, you'll be fine. If you try to tune your own car and don't fully understand how to do that....BOOM.
3. SUPER friendly.
2. VERY easily if you don't know what you're doing. If you use a pre-made map from Cobb, you'll be fine. If you try to tune your own car and don't fully understand how to do that....BOOM.
3. SUPER friendly.
02-21-2011, 01:14 AM
#364
It can screw up your 8 if you unplug it while it's loading/ uninstalling a map or something of the like. But, that shouldn't happen as long as your paying attention to what you're doing lol
It is fairly user friendly. Even I've somewhat learned how to use it
Too bad my car has been in storage since end of november...
02-21-2011, 07:28 AM
#365
I know it's a bit of a drive (Orangeville) but I'm just chill'n working on the car today (stat holiday today) come on up and I'll adjust the clutch pedal for you.
It only takes a minute ... and working in a heated garage makes it especially user friendly.
PM me if u want directions
Last edited by wcs; 02-21-2011 at 08:06 AM.
02-21-2011, 07:45 AM
#366
While jedi is correct .... I would like to make it clear that it's not technically the Cobb AP or it's software that you would use to create or modify the engine maps.
The Cobb AP only gives the ability to load other maps to the ECU. So in this way you could screw things up and as pointed out.
However if you stay with the Cobb AP maps (or a Mazda Maniac Custom Tuning Service Map) you should be ok.
Furthermore Cobb AP does not give you the ability to actually view or change the details about any engine map ... for example like the Fuel Map or Ignition Map.
You need an extra piece of software like the Access Tuner Race (ATR) that does not come with the Cobb AP.
The ATR software gives you the ability to create/modify engine maps then save them in a format that the Cobb AP software can read then load in to the RX8's ecu.
Now your journey to the dark side is complete -
Sorry Jedi - I just wanted to clarify for someone who has never used the Cobb AP that it is but it isn't easy to screw up your engine maps. It's not like if you click the wrong button by mistake you're going blow your car up.
The Cobb AP is an excellent tool and IMO is worth every penny just to use as a monitoring tool .... forget about changing engine maps (even the ones from Cobb)
Last edited by wcs; 02-21-2011 at 07:51 AM.
02-21-2011, 07:58 AM
#367
Speed is all you FN NEED
Join Date: Oct 2007
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I was at a meet last night, and it was pouring down rain, and one of the guys had a carbon fiber, 6 vented hood, if you know what I'm talking about.. And he left it running for a little while.. Anyways, its not going to hurt the engine or anything.. It's only if you use a high pressure hose to wash your engine bay, thats a big no no. But you can use a regular hose to wash the engine bay
Anyways, its only water, your engine wont melt
Forgot to answer the question... with the help of gravity, water goes down... so, it'll trickle down to the lowest point, and the heat of the engine will turn it into steam
Anyways, its only water, your engine wont melt
Forgot to answer the question... with the help of gravity, water goes down... so, it'll trickle down to the lowest point, and the heat of the engine will turn it into steam
02-22-2011, 06:42 AM
#370
There is a whole section under the menu option Advanced (IIRC) that allows you to select what cels are masked.
Mmmmmm I see ... that question maybe deeper than my answer.
So even if you had a map loaded that had all the cels masked ..... and lets just pretend that you knew that on a stock map you would register several cels ....
If you where to hook up a standard ODBII reader with a map that had masked cels, will the ODBII reader see them?
So the map masks the cel but does it prevent it from being stored in the ECU and being read from a standard ODBII reader?
02-23-2011, 03:52 AM
#371
It's the map you load.
There is a whole section under the menu option Advanced (IIRC) that allows you to select what cels are masked.
Mmmmmm I see ... that question maybe deeper than my answer.
So even if you had a map loaded that had all the cels masked ..... and lets just pretend that you knew that on a stock map you would register several cels ....
If you where to hook up a standard ODBII reader with a map that had masked cels, will the ODBII reader see them?
So the map masks the cel but does it prevent it from being stored in the ECU and being read from a standard ODBII reader?
There is a whole section under the menu option Advanced (IIRC) that allows you to select what cels are masked.
Mmmmmm I see ... that question maybe deeper than my answer.
So even if you had a map loaded that had all the cels masked ..... and lets just pretend that you knew that on a stock map you would register several cels ....
If you where to hook up a standard ODBII reader with a map that had masked cels, will the ODBII reader see them?
So the map masks the cel but does it prevent it from being stored in the ECU and being read from a standard ODBII reader?
02-24-2011, 09:34 AM
#373
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02-25-2011, 05:10 PM
#375
It's an option on the ATR software (Access Tuner Race) in the Administration menu.
This software allows you to edit the engine maps for your car.
You save
Upload with the Cobb AP
Bob's ur uncle
Last edited by wcs; 02-26-2011 at 07:32 AM.