Aston177

A serious question. Let's assume my battery is weak after not starting the car for 2 weeks. The battery has enough juice to crank, but not enough to start the car. Would constantly cranking it, trying to start the car, flood my engine?

juey

Hi Folks,

New owner of an AT RX8.
Had a MT 231 for 7 yrs, now back again.

Not many AT in the UK, hence asking here......

Question about making a quick get away.
Being new to auto transmission I have a dumb question:

In D it makes a reasonable/modest get away if I need to get off the mark quickly, but in manual mode the car is sluggish until revs get to 3000-3500 and then it takes off. This makes blending into quick ish moving traffic tricky.

Any tips for a quick get away in an AT?

Does it screw up the gearbox if you rev it in neutral and drop it into D like you would in a MT rev it and drop the clutch???????

Is there any way around the sluggish get away in Manual mode?

I thang yoo

Rx8 Dave

Wierd - I apparently screwed up the link. I just looked at it @ https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...n-miac-181950/ If I screw it up this time, just look for the thread: "please help potential new owner question - MIAC" or look for "MIAC."

Anyway, because of the way the SSV works (as you know, it's a cylindrical valve that fits pretty closely in its enclosure and rotates down deep in the intake trunk), I wouldn't think it's the SSV, but who knows? Could the SSV actuator be rattling?

Some have reported the sound is due to rapid coolant flow at high RPMs and installation of a plate or valve to restrict the flow solved the problem.

If you've emptied the gas tank down to as close to empty as possible, and filled it full of maximum octane and it still makes the noise, it's not preignition unless your compression is so low your engine is about to go bye-bye.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Here is the right link: https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...n-miac-181950/
You had a stray character in there the first time you linked it: -question-miac-181950/:
Note the colon after the slash. That is what broke it.

Rx8 Dave

If the battery and ignition system are in good shape, 2 weeks shouldn't matter. I just started after leaving it for 3 weeks with a two year old battery and it started right up. If there is not enough juice for the coils to discharge and cause the plugs to fire, I would think you're dumping fuel into the engine and it would eventually flood. In any event, if the 8 won't start as usual right away, I'd jump start it and drive it where you can test the battery. Also, while you're at it, you may need to change the coils & plugs if you have between 20K and 40K or more on them unless you have BHR coils. Even the latest "C" OEM coils can go out as early as 20,000 miles and adversely affect starting.

Rx8 Dave

Thanks Godfather. Helpful info. Will watch that next time.

Rx8 Dave

The AT's I've driven in manual mode move off a standing start fine. Zips up to max RPM and I shift into second pretty quick. Does the dashboard transmission indicator show you're in first gear when you're stopped? How soon do you up shift to second?

I don't think the tranny will like it at all if you rev it up then try to drop it into D and, anyway, this shouldn't be necessary.

If your 8's not running up to max RPMs in first, maybe something's wrong in the tranny. More info would be helpful.
Cheers

Aston177

Thank you so much Dave I have read that thread before and I've watched the video in the first post. Mine isn't that loud. I've tried to record my sound but my phone didn't pick it up. It's a faint rattle noise at around 4000-ish RPM. It only happens when in gear and under load. Never while revving in neutral. I can't hear it at high revs as the engine noise masks the rattle.


Mine is a 2007 JDM AT with 30,000 miles and my SSV actuator does tick, but only when in gear (Reverse or Drive) and not in Park. In other words, it only ticks when my RPM drops below 850 RPM (in gear). When I'm in Park, my RPM is around 900ish, so it doesn't tick. The lower the RPM, the louder it ticks. And I know it's the SSV because it's goes tap tap tap and doesn't change tempo according to RPM. It's an unchanging tick. It goes away if I blip the throttle but comes back when in Drive (or Reverse).

My car does have new plugs and wires. The coils are the new C ones. All changed 300 miles ago

Just wanted to know if it'll flood because I don't drive my car often.

Thank you so much.

juey

It revs fine once its got going and will rev to the red line fine - as OP once it gets to about 3000rpm it takes off. It's the first couple of seconds that it's sluggish, like it's bogging down a bit because it's having to pull from 1200 rpm or like an engine running too rich for example........it's not really bad, it pulls away 'ok', but sometimes when trying to pull away quickly into traffic, it needs a bit more 'go'.

Rx8 Dave

The SSV doesn't open until the engine is in gear and opens at the same time as the secondary fuel injectors start operating, somewhere between 3250 and 5500 rpm, depending on engine load. Interesting - that the actuator clicks the way you explain it - I learn something new every day. Thanks and glad to help.

Rx8 Dave

Geez, this is hard to figure out. You may be right about the fuel trims and you might start there. The laundry list includes checking fuel trims, for an O2 sensor problem, see if cat is clogged up (see if glowing around the O2 sensor after running the car), check for vacuum leaks, a dirty MAF, and ignition failure (coils, plugs and/or wires), see if air filter needs replacement, see if there are bad motor mounts, low compression, and if there is carbon build up (Mazda zoom-zoom cleaner and clean the inside of the engine out). Let us know what you find out.

Aston177

Thank YOU

Is it known to click under load? I don't know why my car makes a rattle noise under load. I've been doing some reading about MIAC after you posted that link and it does sound a lot like that. But it's not as loud, and it doesn't happen at 6000 RPM. Not that high. More like 4000-5000 RPM. the higher you go, the less you notice it (because the engine gets louder).

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8dIJVcxbBpE

That's how it ticks when in gear.

Rx8 Dave

You're welcome. Your YouTube is probably as clear as you can get, Aston, but is your finger on the SSV shaft flange, or on the connection of the actuator assembly to the intake, or on the actuator shaft connecting the actuator shaft to the SSV shaft flange? I'm wondering because - could the actuator shaft be disconnected from the SSV shaft flange? Or, more likely, the actuator assembly attachment (round or hex/octagon metal nut) to the intake is just loose? See this video: and picture: https://www.rx8club.com/attachments/...v-assembly.jpg

Since the SSV only opens when you're driving the car somewhere between 3250 and 5500 rpm when the secondary fuel injectors start operating (it doesn't open when the car is stationary, even in gear) the SSV should be stationary - closed - and not vibrating. However, something at or around the actuator assembly may just be loose. My thought is the rattle is not the SSV itself, but something to do with the actuator or where it's attached.

While you're at it rotate the SSV by hand and see if there is any change in the rattling. Here's a video about testing all the 8's valves (the SSV is halfway through the video):

patriotjj

Im going to start premixing on my Reman, do i need an Sohn OMP adapter, or no? I know there has been debate threads, but just wondering if i premix without(proper amount of course, 1/2 ounce per gal), would it be bad.

gwilliams6

You can premix without also doing the Sohn adaptor. The best is to do both if you can, but premix alone is still a great help to your engine's internal lubrication (get ready to start a debate here) . I have premixed the rotary engines of all seven rotaries I have owned and I have NEVER had a rotary engine failure, ever. So I personally believe it helps. There are many opinions here.

One note: if your engine is still within the Mazda rotary engine warranty (in your case with a reman only if the total miles or years on your chassis are still under the 8 yrs/100,000 miles, or you have an additional warranty on the reman) , adding a sohn adaptor system and bypassing the stock OMP could cause you to void the factory engine replacement warranty if this is found on your engine . Mazda could claim your engine died for lack of proper lubrication, Even though in reality that might not be the case, Mazda has denied the engine warranty for improper oil lubrication in their eyes. I think RIWWP mentions which modifications can cause warranty voids, and he does mention this, even though he would recommend the SOHN system.

patriotjj

Okay thanks for the quick reply gwilliams! Appreciate your answer, im just not going to chance it(have a year and 1 month on warranty left), ill just premix without for time being.

Chrishoky

iTrader: (9)

No it wont be BAD. You are doing your engine a favor by doing so. The Sohn will only increase the positive effects.

Jazzmeson

iTrader: (5)

I have the opportunity to get a set of Mazdaspeed coilovers with very little mileage. I know they are re-branded Eibach Multi-Pro R1s. What's your opinion on these compared to a Koni Yellow/Progress Technology spring setup?

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9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

They would be a much better setup overall. I have known of several guys to have Koni yellows fail prematurely.

Jazzmeson

iTrader: (5)

Gotcha, thanks. I'm currently running the latter and just got curious because the Mazdaspeed ones are being sold for dirt cheap.

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Rx8 Dave

You probably know this, but it's worth repeating - Keep the Sohn in mind after the warranty expires since it keeps lubricating oil (which is not made to burn) out of the combustion chambers and will help reduce carbon buildup from burning that oil instead of 2-stroke oil (that is meant to burn).

patriotjj

Hey thanks for that thought though actually, will most likely be getting one once warranty is out for sure!

Chrishoky

iTrader: (9)

How do people with vented hoods keep water from entering their engine bay?

Aston177

Thank you so much for your help.

The video is not mine. I just sent a link to a video that sounds similar to mine.

I will test it once I get the time. Yeah it doesn't rattle when I rev it. It only happens under load when moving. Yes, it's probably the actuator.

I haven't rushed into it because the car drives fine. No loss of power or anything. I'm trying to wait until it craps out on me (waiting for it to tick as loud as the video while idling) because the last time I went looking for problems, I ended up almost ruining the engine haha. My steering felt numb so I cleaned the connectors. While putting everything back in the darn rubber grommet fell in and jammened the fan.
The car overheated on my way home. Yeah. **** happens

ruffrydnnmt69

Want change the color of my vacuum hoses how do I tell what size they are??
Also was wondering the mass air flow sensor if you follow the wire, it's taped to another wire with a green plug. where does that green plug go to??

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