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Old 07-31-2014, 11:54 AM
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What is the fan behavior on the RX8 when the car is moving on a series II?
Does the ECU know the car is moving and disable the fan?
Which way does the fan point?

I am asking because I was throwing around the idea of a reversible oil cooler fan, and using the factory radiator relay to trigger when my relay would fire. When the car is not moving I would like the fan to blow against out instead of back towards the tires so it would also take hot air away from the whole engine bay as a side effect.

Last edited by badinfluence; 07-31-2014 at 11:59 AM.
Old 08-01-2014, 06:50 PM
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give me access to post!!
Old 08-01-2014, 07:08 PM
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I am the original owner of a 2004 that has just lost compression. I've taken excellent of my car, but these cars can fail by 100,000 miles (I have 91,000 on mine). My Mazda dealer has replaced eight engines this year. The warranty is 8 years or 100,000 miles so if you buy the 2003, you would be out of luck if it fails.
Old 08-01-2014, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Littutor
I am the original owner of a 2004 that has just lost compression. I've taken excellent of my car, but these cars can fail by 100,000 miles (I have 91,000 on mine). My Mazda dealer has replaced eight engines this year. The warranty is 8 years or 100,000 miles so if you buy the 2003, you would be out of luck if it fails.
Yes, it had expired in 2012 for our 2004 RX-8s.
Old 08-05-2014, 02:20 PM
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Anyone know the part number for the "TIP" of the 2 or 3 vacuum hoses that connect to the "Accordion" intake. It looks like a Male symbol with a normal barb end then a square lock that interlocks with the two missing chucks of the intake hose.

Or any idea what I could use instead that would seal well. My RX8 only needs 2 of the 3 available so I was going to add a VAC gauge there.



The "TIP" of part 13-758
Old 08-05-2014, 03:30 PM
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I used a brass elbow from pex pipe...

A vac gauge wont work there...it needs to be after the throttle body to work
Old 08-06-2014, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by dannobre
I used a brass elbow from pex pipe...

A vac gauge wont work there...it needs to be after the throttle body to work
Any idea which hose would be best to tap? I was worried about oil getting into the gauge since it was a cheap mechanical one I bought solely for testing.

I had my car worked on and they let it idle and baked up some carbon, then my brake booster was so bad the ABS wouldn't function and I had to rev and pump at the same time to stop. At first I suspected Vacuum leak, but after about 150 miles and cleaning up the grounds it seems to be "better" but not what it was before a hit and run. The YAW sensor was also replaced.
Old 08-06-2014, 02:10 PM
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Brake Master Cylinder Difference - June 2005 onward

My Brake master cylinder is dickered, and i placed an order with Cardone for a refurbished one, however when it arrived, it was a little different than the original one i had on the car.
I didn't know that there was a difference until i looked online at a few different sites selling cylinders.
I know my car is an '05, and what i got was marketed as a '05, but i saw somewhere that they made a change to the cylinder, and there mounting of the reservoir.

Has anyone else come across this issue?
and the brake line fittings won't start as easily, I'm wondering if they're different threads? i could probably make do with it, but i don't want to screw it up.
Old 08-07-2014, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by lukewarmsteak
My Brake master cylinder is dickered, and i placed an order with Cardone for a refurbished one, however when it arrived, it was a little different than the original one i had on the car.
I didn't know that there was a difference until i looked online at a few different sites selling cylinders.
I know my car is an '05, and what i got was marketed as a '05, but i saw somewhere that they made a change to the cylinder, and there mounting of the reservoir.

Has anyone else come across this issue?
and the brake line fittings won't start as easily, I'm wondering if they're different threads? i could probably make do with it, but i don't want to screw it up.
Not to redirect, but how do you know it is dickered? Mine did something like that and I was sure it was toast, but then I realized the car was being stupid with the IAC and the ECU just needed RESET because of a stupid CAN code that didn't throw a CEL. I cleaned the ground up by the Brake Booster, and whammy my brake pedal did wonders after that. There is also that check valve in front of it that my be blocked by oil blow by like the intake.
Old 08-08-2014, 09:59 AM
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Well... I thought it was all screwed up, so I decided to take it apart.

And I dickered up one of the seals myself trying to get the dn thing back in. I could get a new seal for it, but then I realized that it's IMPOSSIBLE to get it back in without a special tool. (There's two 1"ish Internal u-cup seals, external would be soooooo easy.)
So I'm ordering a 2006 model I think it should fix the problem
Old 08-08-2014, 01:58 PM
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Why does the SOHN not pair with the Series 2 RX-8?
Old 08-08-2014, 02:00 PM
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Physically doesn't fit. Like how a 10mm wrench can't fit on a 12mm bolt.

The whole thing changed design for the S2, because it had to feed 3 injectors instead of 2. Mr Sohn would have to design one for the S2, and he hasn't yet.
Old 08-08-2014, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by housze_rulez
Why does the SOHN not pair with the Series 2 RX-8?
The OMP system on the series 2 engines is totally different than the series 1

There are huge differences in the engines...different plates, covers etc.....

The Series 2 pump also is electrically controlled using engine oiil pressure...unlike the Series 1 that is more of a pump
Old 08-08-2014, 11:07 PM
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What does bump mean when used in the for sale forums?

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App
Old 08-09-2014, 07:43 AM
  #3865  
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Originally Posted by MazdaRX8Lover
What does bump mean when used in the for sale forums?

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App
It's just a reminder that the item is still for sale.
Old 08-09-2014, 07:46 AM
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^And (depending on a user's settings) the thread is typically "bumped" to the top of the page.
Old 08-09-2014, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by BigCajun
It's just a reminder that the item is still for sale.
That makes sense, it bumps to the top of the list. Thank you guys!
Old 08-13-2014, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by housze_rulez
Why does the SOHN not pair with the Series 2 RX-8?
I talked to Rotary Aviation, one of the makers of the SOHN about it too. I was bummed to hear about this too. I would use one even if I had to add my own pump, and tubing, but modifying the thing looks like a real challenge.


It also appears to recirculate and is inside the engine casing. If you look around for the tread, (I can't remember), I think the Team 9k from San Antonio pointed it out about the re-circulation and pickup tube.
Old 08-14-2014, 01:41 PM
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High temps after bumper swap

Hey guys. 2007 JDM RX-8 here.

I just swapped my front bumper with an R3 front bumper. Changed the headlights and fenders too. The oil coolers had some sort of cover on them to direct airflow from the opening the old bumper had. I couldn't mount the R3 bumper with it so I took them off. I also had to take off 2 big round pieces of regiform that were attached to the front chassis. I thought the lower lip (the little plastic lip with the triangle on) of the old bumper fits the new one. It didn't so now the under tray isn't connected to the front bumper. Long story short, I made the R3 bumper fit without the lower lip. I left the under tray there. It was flapping around a bit but it wasn't going to fall off.

On my way home, I noticed that my cars temps were a little high. It would go up a few F while idling :O I was averaging around 212F in 82F ambient temp. Wasn't revving it. Doing 15 to 25 MPH on a busy street. RPM was around 1000-1500. It did drop down to 207 once. Only to go back to 214.

What did I do wrong? Would removing the oil cooler covers increase coolant temps? Is it because I didn't connect the lower lip? I can't think of another reason. I haven't touched the water pumps or fans. Help
Old 08-14-2014, 01:51 PM
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I could be wrong, but I BELIEVE that is correct. I had read somewhere that (a newer member?) was having issues overheating without the undertray not functioning properly, and WITH having the oil cooler screens in place. Not a 100% but for a quick reference unless someone else can chime in w more solid evidence, search "saga" in the forums.
Old 08-14-2014, 01:53 PM
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What you have done is disrupted the airflow that would go through the radiator and oil coolers. Less airflow through them...less cooling.

You need to plug up the holes and secure the under tray and ensure all the air goes through the rad and coolers
Old 08-14-2014, 11:18 PM
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Thanks for the replies Integr8 and dannobre. Much appreciated.

The under tray is in place. It's just not connected to the bumper by the lip, because there is no lip. But it's there. And it's on the same spot. Could just that increase my temps by 10F?

The oil cooler screens had to be removed because the new bumper didn't fit with them on. I'll try putting them back on and shaving the bit where it touches the bumper.

Can blocking the oil coolers increase coolant temps?
Old 08-15-2014, 12:12 AM
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If the air can escape before it goes through the rad it will run warmer. If the airflow isn't going through the oil coolers. ... it will run warmer .....

Plug up the holes and see what happens
Old 08-15-2014, 12:45 AM
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So oil coolers aid in lowering cooling temps? I thought it only helps lower oil temps.
Old 08-15-2014, 01:40 AM
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Excuse me if there is a better explanation as I'm still noob, but yes, typically they would work hand in hand. Hot oil, hot block, hot coolant jackets.... The tray not properly in place or bumper restricting air from its original design also playing part. As was stated cool air escaping around and not properly cooling...


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