128,000 miles has been considered pretty high mileage, especially for the engine, but I have an '04 with 115,000+ miles with no problems at all except for an occassionally sticky driver side lock switch. Transmission's fine. I have a SOHN, premix, make sure she's warmed up before upping the RPMs, run it up to 6,500 RPMs once a day, do required maintenance before the required time, etc. Others should chime in, but transmission problems seem relatively rare, at least no more than other cars with 128,000 miles. The only thing I'd anticipate sometime down the road is a reman engine, but so far the compression on my engine is great. You should anticipate a reman engine in your future (do a correct compression test). If the transmission work on your Rx8 is done right, or if you have a good new tranny, you should get a lot of mileage on it, hopefully another 128K miles. BTW, check out Highest Mileage Rx8: https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discuss...-120539/page9/, the NEW MEMBER FORUM: New Member Forum - RX8Club.com and EXTEND ENGINE LIFE: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...2/#post3411503. Even with repair cost and a new engine in its future, my Rx8 seems to be worth it to me compared to a newer used car with the Rx8's attributes. Just thank God you don't have an Audi, etc.

 

I'm at a loss - thought Greddy only made a turbo for an Rx7 (?) - Greddy has an eManage system for its turbos (GReddy). I suppose you can use the Geddy instructions (http://www.greddy.com/upload/file/e-...ion-manual.pdf) and see if the Cobb can be set that way to adjust the ECU. However, I would just contact Geddy (T: 949.588.8300
F: 949.588.6318, info@greddy.com) and ask them before messing around.

 

The Cobb is a very much superior tuning tool than the emanage that came with the Greddy kits.

The stock map will work fine for startup.....unless you have changed the injectors. The idle may be poor depending how you mounted the MAF sensor

 

Honestly if you aren't using the Cobb, I would just get a whole piggyback ECU and be done with it. The Cobb does a ton for you and asks very little. Get a universal one like a Haltech RE or a AEM Fuel Air computer. The AEM can be resold to any other car so it will hold it's value, and Haltechs are very well respected.

Anyway, had I have that option, it would be Cobb every time. I have had it on 3 of my cars and it is an amazing tool.

I would set aside some money for a professional tuner. I am not sure if you can, but on supported cars you can get Accessport Race (free version) that you get for having a accessport. It helps you dial in some preflight checks before you go crazy with a pro tune.

 

2007 AT.

Why is this part oily? It's right next to the dip stick. It looks like it's dipped in oil.

 

Seriously, no b.s., not even steam. Either it instantly evaporates or never makes it to the engine bay. Something has to be sealing it well, I suspect the angle that the radiator is amount is a big one, but nothing gets even to the intake area either. It is well sealed from the factory.

I suspect I would have to calm it down and give it a carrot or an Apple if it got wet, they usually don't like that.

 

Umm Filter spashback? That filter holds oil itself so when someone took it off it prob just dripped all over that part. Under it is oily too by that metal bolt.

 

aston its probably oily from oil being dripped on it from checking the dipstick or changing the filter. just spray it with some brake cleaner

 

Thanks for the reply guys. Does anyone know what that part is? Is there oil inside it?

 

I'm talking about the intake horse that runs across, inside the front bumper outside the engine bay. You can't see it because it's covered by the plastic panel that sits on the hood release mechanism. I know that water doesn't get into the engine bay.

I'm just worried if it'll be a problem. My old bumper wasn't completely sealed off so that no water could get to the intake horse directly under it. At least, that's how it came from the factory.

 

Technically the whole intake system gets blowby and collects oil, but that doesn't look like it is leaking or it would be under the part and look more like water droplets. It looks like part of the 6port intake system, but I can't quite see where exactly it is on my screen (phone).

Look for more oil on rubber hoses above the area and around the area with a blue oil towel to look for a drip from something. I think it is just how the tech has to grab that filter to get it out and some oil just spilled from it.

 

If you are really good you can teach it to do jumps and race it.

I know, I popped them up and checked with a flashlight. I was curious if I could steam clean the engine that way since I don't have a UIM.

That trashbag idea will cover the whole bumper if you want it to, just mold it into the bumper instead then cover it with metal or something just in case the car gets hot. It can only help with the bumper flex, and might even help air from escaping in some places.

I would hotmelt glue the bags on the bumper then from the top spray it all the way to the bottom and work your way up. If possible remove the bags after and inspect the mold.

 

$1700 for a clutch, pressure plate, TO bearing and pilot bearing + labor sounds about right for a dealership. But still inflated compared to a decent private shop.
If your 10 old car really needed all that...and a new transmission, I would suspect abuse by a previous owner. Competently driven, IMO your clutch package should last in excess of 80-100k. A transmission even longer.

 

Alright I will look for oil. Thanks. But is that hose supposed to get wet when it's raining or while washing the car? Because it's technically outside the engine pay and directly under the front bumper? I have a feeling that it's supposed to get wet :/ but how much?

You removed those panels near the hood release mechanism? The parts that are there on my S1 are -

1. 2 beadings that fit the bumper (same beading line. Just 2 pieces)
2. The plastic panel
3. A metal panel below the plastic panel.

That's all there is. After you remove that metal panel, you get to the intake hose. Are there any additional parts on the R3 down there? Or is it just those 3?

 

Lol the horse :D I misspelled that.

 

Thank you for understanding what I was asking! lol
exactly what i needed to hear, cheers!

 

I just got my car back and want to do my fog lights soon. I will take a few pics if it cools down enough to get the bumper off.

 

Thanks! I really appreciate it!

 

What should LTFT and MAF g/s be at for a S1?

 

At a hot idle, combined fuel trims (long and short) need to be within -5% to +5%, and ideally are under -2% to +2%. Higher or lower and you have a problem somewhere.

MAF should be ~5.0-5.5g/s. Lower if you have an unhealthy engine. Lower plus high fuel trims, and it is a vacuum leak.

 

This is exactly what i'm going through. I even capped the nipple behind the throttle body and it didn't help.

 

If you can't find it from any other means, take it to a shop and have it smoke tested. Or build a leak tester yourself.

 

Does anyone know the thread size of the oil connections on the front and rear of the engine? I'm looking for fittings that would convert them for 10an lines.

 

just bought a 2004 rx8 and theres a bracket by the control arm that is broken, i move it around and doesn't look like it does anything, car drives perfectly fine so not sure what its for or what its called so i can replace it… does anyone know or could point me in the right direction?

 

Has anyone taken this data and made a table of it?

For instance


MAFr X.X | +/- LTFT | Compression Test?