Cat is a good possibility. Are you premixing your fuel? If so, are you using a different premix? These can give a different smell.

I know my 8 has a smell after I push the revs. Not rotten eggs, but a definite smell.

The other potential is an old battery. If you get a bad cell, it can produce hydrogen sulfide gas, that is the gas that normally causes the rotten egg smell. Be very careful examining the battery as if it is producing H2S, it is an explosive gas.

 

Interesting suggestion. The battery does look old, and has been sitting in the car for the past year and a half doing probably nothing. The cat I will check soon when I have some time, if that's not it I'll probably start with replacing the battery. I need to replace it anyway considering how old it is and I need more CCA for our winters.

Also more information that might help the diagnosis. Let the girlfriend drive the car so she can get used to a manual again before she picks up her car this weekend. She was launching wrong, she was putting in way too much throttle on without letting off the clutch pedal enough for the clutch to engadge. At this point, I could still smell the rotten egg smell even though the clutch was disengaged.

My question is, if the clutch is giving off the smell, could it still give it off when it's disengaged? If not then that would lead me to suspect the cat.

 

Since I have an auto 6 speed rx8 (gears seem long) I saw the auto has a 4.10 rear diff ratio. Would installing a manual l.s.d unit (since there not badly priced) with a ratio of (4.40? If I read correctly) increase my lowend launch?
I am aware of the fuel loss. But this year im parking the car to focus more and id like to start with basics.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by blu3dragon
Some more thinking...

Continental:
PureContact with EcoPlus Technology 235/55R18, 28.2" diameter, 24lbs (3500 rpm => 3227 rpm)
PureContact with EcoPlus Technology 235/50R18 27.3" diameter, 24lbs (3500 rpm => 3333 rpm)
ExtremeContact DWS 225/50ZR18 26.9"diameter, 25lbs (3500 rpm => 3383 rpm)
ExtremeContact DWS 235/50ZR18 27.3" diameter, 26lbs (3500 rpm => 3333 rpm)
ExtremeContact DW 235/50ZR18 27.3" diameter, 24lbs (3500 rpm => 3333 rpm)

Michelin Pilot Super Sport 225/50ZR18 26.9" diameter, 24lbs (3500 rpm => 3383 rpm)

All of these are almost the same price (between 174 and 188) on tire rack... (for some reason supersports are much more expensive in 225/45/18)

Right now I'm thinking DWS 225/50ZR18 is probably a good choice...

Just compare those 225/50's at 26.9" diameter and 24 lbs to 23.9" and 18lbs. in a great riding 215/35-18 DWS. Lowers the CG 1.5" with NO loss of suspension travel and gives you the immediacy of turn in and braking stability of a 35 aspect ratio, with unsprung weight dropping by 6 lbs per tire. My experience is distorted by the lighter unsprung weight from the Brembo's so YMMV, but the DWS in any size is a great improvement. Commuting for me involves a lot of 170-180 kph cruising suddenly going to 60-80 kph and the 215/35 DWS's have been faultless.

END QUOTE

I have a 2010 sport daily driver and I am needing to get new tires. I am looking for a tire with good tread life ( I have 38K on my original tires ) and I do not drive "fast" but I love taking corners at speed.
If I go with the 23.9 inch diameter, 215/35-18 tires will my car be lower to the ground? I do not want to worry about speed bumps and so fourth.

Thank you for any information you can offer.[/QUOTE]

 

Ok, so I've only had 2 times where there was a 4 second startup in very warm temperature. I know it's typical of a poor compression, but I also just realized that I haven't changed my oil in quite a while.. Could that be it? Brand new coils, plugs, and wires.

Second, 3 times now, my car has not started in the year I've had it. I only drive her 1-2 times a week. Each time it happened, I have enough juice for the power locks/windows, blinker, etc. for about 15 seconds, then nothing. I have a trickle charger, and all three times, I resurrected it that way, but why is it dying so often? It's a year old battery, and I'm not leaving anything on (lights, trunk open). I have a ScanXL, but that goes into power saver mode. Any thoughts?

 

I would load test the Battery and get the alternator tested as well.

 

There is only 1 way in which oil will affect startup times: If you ran it out of oil and your engine seized as a result.

Sounds like you probably have some slow battery drain, and that is periodically getting low enough to prevent the car from starting, and sometimes just slow it down a bunch.

Otherwise, back to the basics:
- Clean the ESS
- Reset the ESS profile
- clean grounding points and cable connections
- test compression
- test starter

I'd lay money on a slow battery drain though

 

Can an airpump delete cause a P2096? It is in the DTC troubleshooting area, not sure if it has ever been brought up. Their are not to many threads discussing this.

 

From the service manual list of possible causes for P2096, and bold is mine, looks like it could, though depends on how it was deleted i guess.

 

Block off plate, solenoid capped.

 

Any chance that the blockoff plate isn't a complete seal?

 

No idea, I have not sealed my exhaust yet tho so that may also be the issue. I am 14 months overdue for an inspection tho, so i just loaded a map with all CEL's disabled so I can get that done this week.

 

Ok, idea! So I tested the battery and alternator, and they're good, and I remembered something; the fan.

Sometimes when I shut the car off, the fan comes back on. I assume it's to cool the car down, and I thought it only goes on for a minute or two, but two times I've come back from shopping ~20 minutes later, and it's still running... This also happened during my most recent slow start, as well. Maybe that's what's draining the battery?

I have Torque and an OBDII, so I can see that the temperature is not that bad (I think it goes to about 90 degrees Celsius), so what's up with the fan?

 

Hi all, Is it possible to hook the ecu unit up to a device to see how the car has been driven from the previous owner? this is a 2004 model mazda rx8. thank you all.

 

No...sorry nothing like a "black box" onboard

 

Hi everyone,

I am new to the Mazda Rx8 club and I have a 2007 RX8 here in Dubai.
My question is " Which Engine oil should I use?"
The engine oil cap says 5W x 20. which is very hard to find here . Also since this car is an import from the US, I was thinking should I still use the Oil specified on the cap. Here the temperatures are really hot 90 degrees F to 150 F. Should I still use the same oil or would you guys suggest something else.

Thanks

 

I recently did the DIY for the stripped MAF screws. Today when I cleaned my MAF I noticed a small dent inside the tube where the MAF goes just below one of the screws, as if I drilled a bit too far but not completely through. Is this something to worry about?

 

as long as you didn't go through and create a hole in the intake tube you should be fine.

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

 

Kannibang - definitely use something heavier. 20w40 or 20w50.

One of the new owner stickies has a chart from the Australian owner's manual that shows which oil to use for various temperature ranges. The US recommendation is political, aimed at fuel mileage.

Ken

 

primarily due to potholed/rough roads in this part of the world. I have Z4 and i put alu spacers on 1" spacers the shockabs and now im not scraping the the under carriage anymore. Wonder if i could do the same with this car without affecting the handling too much...

 

Just buy adjustable coilovers

 

Yea due to the shape of the tophats of the front and rear suspension, along with the minimal clearance, i dont think you could add any of those "insta-lift" spacers (aka truck levelers) to the top. Assuming that is what you mean,.

 

thanks for the assist.. will sort something out...

 

I keep blowing my radiator fan fuse. any suggestions on how to fix this?

 

plz help