Aston177

Super dumb question. Why doesn't the slip indicator light show up when my rear wheels are spinning (on a sand road)?

Brian.Gallagher

I just bought a new rx8 and i was wondering if any of you have some mirrors on their hoods?

If you do, could you please send me some pictures and some link to get some in private message, thanks a lot.

Brian

badinfluence

Only shows up when it is cutting power. If the TCM doesn't detect slip on an Auto, the Torque converter got it before the TCM needed to cut power down. If it is a manual, it just didn't need to cut power because it didn't detect the slip.


Keep in mind, even at the best of times the engine only has 100 to 175 foot pounds of torque and even in first gear the RX8S1 doesn't break 1000 with the whole assembly with no drive train loss included.

badinfluence

What is "the original" 13B? There are over 8 revisions of the 13B as of now.
FB(Jspec),FC NA1 NA2 T1 T2 FDTT FDNA FDTT2, 13B-MSP, 13B-MSP2, 16X13B(Unnamed) Maybe even a few I left out.

The SSV's main job is to smooth idle and make the car less noisy. It is pretty much as easy as capping the line, but depending on the overall health of the Engine, PCM, & vac hoses, it may cause you issues if the car can't try and save itself. If it is a Turbo I wouldn't even worry about removing the SSV.

Rx8 Dave

Quote:
Originally Posted by stiripan
New to the forum ( should have joined long ago). This is my first rx8. I was wondering if anyone has removed the ssv on the rx8 as most have ( even myself) on the original 13b?

Will capping the vacuum throw a P2070 code and fail emissions for states that have emissions requirements?

By the way, also isn't it correct that if you take the SSV out, leaving those two ports always open, what you will end up doing is hurting your gas mileage (you need additional fuel to keep the AFR proper), adding to low speed emissions (especially in states with tough emissions standards, and not good for the environment anyway), and you will make less power than stock all the way up to about 7250 rpm or so? I understand that the SSV (and the other intake valves) are there to keep intake velocity high, not just for air volume, that more port area is not better until you actually need more, because you want to keep the intake velocity high to promote good ram charging. My understanding also seems supported by the fact that MAZDA put the SSV, etc. in the engine to begin with, or is MAZDA off base on this?

On the other hand, if you have a turbo that helps with ram charging, I would think the physics would still be the same at least as to gas mileage and emissions, and I agree you should keep the SSV.

stiripan

the older 13b engines not this new renisis style. The 13b N/A 6 port that also had the ssv.

stiripan

Keeping the ssv it is then. Thanks

Panda Fetish

iTrader: (2)

A serious dumb question

Im looking to get a lightweight flywheel (BHR... duh) and my mechanic says i NEED to get a high performance clutch or i will eat through my stock clutch in a matter of days. I have a new clutch with ~5000 miles on it and I'm not going to turbo my car so i didn't think i needed a high performance clutch. Is it possible to resurface my stock clutch so it will mate well with the new flywheel or is a high performance clutch a must?

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

Not true. I have a Mazdaspeed lightweight flywheel. I've been using it for 9 yrs with a OEM Mazda clutch & pressure plate.
While it is possible to resurface a flywheel, you can't do it to a clutch. It shouldn't be necessary anyway.

Rx8 Dave

Ditto to what Al says ^
Keep in mind the OEM transmission on the RX8 has a counterweight built into the flywheel, while the flywheel Black Halo sells doesn't, so you need a counterweight from BHR also.

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

Most (if not all) aftermarket flywheels don't come with a counterweight. What they sell you is one that is used for an automatic transmission car.

badinfluence

Are you missing gears?
Has he seen your clutch?

My guess is he is trying to get business. On the RX8s I have driven, the Engine goes before the clutch unless you are missing gears. If you are missing check your clearances on your shiftier, replace your clutch pedal assembly, and install a synco saver. Few hundred dollars to save a few thousand.

I don't think you should worry about the flywheel and clutch till after you work out your turbo plan. If you car is already apart to do the Turbo swap, then do the clutch at the same time or 100 miles later. Every car is different when it comes to making an N/A a turbo because drive-by-wire isn't an exact Off the shelf tuning process. You will spend more tuning for a Turbo than on the clutch assembly.

The stock assembly is very well balanced for the car when it comes to smoothness. There is only 200 pounds in the actual engine, so saving a few grams to possibly unbalance your engine seems kind of stupid. Now if it is already not smooth like some cars can be from the factory, go for it.

Aston177

I have a 2007 AT and my car makes a tapping noise at idle. Did some research, watched some videos and came to a conclusion that it's my SSV. It does this only when the engine is warm, AC on and in Drive or Reverse. It only ticks loudly when the RPM drops, say around 810 RPM. When in Park or Neutral (900RPM) it doesn't tick loudly. It's there, but you can't hear it unless you listen to it carefully. The lower the RPM, the louder it gets. Rev it and it goes away. Comes back when it idles.

Would cleaning this really make it go way? I've read that people who have cleaned their SSVs that doesn't tick, start ticking AFTER they've cleaned it. Also, most people say that it ticks throughout the entire rev range. Mine only ticks at idle

MagaDsm

Aston, the ticking (pinging?) on my 2003 actually starts when engine is hot after driving some distance and particularly when bogged with traffic/low rev (Im south of the equator so heat is there). At idle it is never heard and cooling/stopping it for even 5-10 mins, stops the ticking. Was advised to clean the SSV's, check the cat and the MAF, it helped a bit but i still hear it though faintly now. I was wondering whether it has anything to do with the fuel distribution system eg fuel pump or fuel filter as it seems that when the ticking starts its as if engine is being 'starved' of fuel...

Aston177

Mine is not pinging. It's a tapping sound. Happens even when the engine is cold if the RPM drops to a certain level. I said it's the SSV because I hear the same sound on YouTube when I type in "RX8 SSV" haha. Your problem is different from mine. I have no idea if it has anything to do with the fuel pump lol. I'm sure the exports on this forum can help you out

badinfluence

When a car uses drive by wire, everything has everything to do with everything.


Something a silly as an SSV ticking can set off a sensitive knock sensor.

badinfluence

It is just VVT noise, check the timing of the chain and you will be good.


Just kidding....


[Derp]

Aston177

Thanks for your reply. How do I disconnect the SSV? Wouldn't that reduce low end power? And what does the air pump have to do with this? I thought air pump is an emissions thing

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

Okay here is my dumb question..

If I remove the front aero lip, will my undertray still bolt up? Is the little black lip going to be there?

Grace_Excel

iTrader: (5)

I have the appearance package; when I removed mine to put a replacement bumper, it did not include the bottom bracket that secures the under tray to the bumper.

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

Damn it... I ran over a tire and the lip is F*cked... Guess I'll be zip tying it up till I get an adjuster out..

poacherinthezoo

Why does engine load always exceed 100% on all the ECU maps that have engine load on either the X or Y axis? For example, here is the series 2 MOP map kindly provided by paimon.soro (series 2 ECU tuning thread, post #980).

badinfluence

[derp]

The RX8 and low end power aren't two words that go together. Some engines struggle to break 100 ft pounds at the wheels. (1:1 Ratio)

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

On a NA engine you technically wouldn't see 100% load realistically, granted your calculated load will be 100% when slamming WOT your actual measured load may very well be around 90-95%. It would take an engine operating under maximum efficiency with matched intake and exhaust components to get close to 100% of the full engine's measured load (i.e. think race built engines). That being said, your engine load is typically a calculation of "actual air mass / theoretical air mass". The only time your actual would exceed theoretical is on boosted applications. It is essentially a safety net built into the OE ECU.

Aston177

So you're saying that the SSV is making a tapping noise because of a vacuum leake?