they dont work. very few people have had any luck with them. if you want a mid pipe and no cel get a cobb

 

Got a series II man, Mazdaedit is my only option for tuning.

 

I have the BHR midpipe, I like it.
CEL every few days, PO420, I read it, erase it with Android Torque app.

 

I can help with the first question. Or at least try. I'm pretty sure this is all accurate and if not I'm sure someone will let me know.

A good midpipe (BHR seems to be generally accepted as the best for the 8) can add a small amount of HP because it is less restrictive but you could lose a small amount of torque so it's a trade off as far as performance goes.

People claim MPG goes both ways, the effect of the midpipe seem to be negligible in comparison to the effect of your right foot. On another post someone said that if you like the sound of your new midpipe MPG will go down and if you don't like the sound MPG will go up. It's all based on you.

Both BHR and Corksport are great companies but the BHR is definitely more popular on here.

I think sound is the most important factor when deciding if you want a midpipe/ any exhaust part.


As far as the CEL, just get an OBDII and you can check it and if you get certain apps you can clear it if you want. You'd be surprised how fast you get used to lights on the dash or at least I was.

 

Now I have a question of my own. What is a fair price for a used muffler. I kind of need one and I found one fairly locally for 100. Does that seem fair?

 

Hard to say without inspecting. Try Googling the part (for instance Discount Auto has one for $47.60 - http://www.discountbodyparts.com/cat...0-e7e8389a8a21). Do some comparison shopping. Good luck, Dustin

 

VersaTune is available for the series II cars.

 

When you say muffler, do you mean just a muffler or the whole back section for a RX8?

My guess is you can get a pretty good deal on the whole back section if you can find someone locally that has one in their garage after a swap.

 

Seems about the same price as Mazdaedit. Which you would pick for your car?

 

I've experimented in the past with these, both with spark plug foulers, as well as "L" and "J" o2 spacer configurations. It doesn't work on the S2. The emissions system is far too sensitive and will result in throwing a P0421 as opposed to a p0420.

 

Maybe some sort of artificial O2 sensor heating system could solve that?

(Sorry, but being someone stuck in the never ending "what about...?" world of academic research, I couldn't help myself )

 

My keyless entry card is pretty much dead - I have to jiggle it around constantly for the car to recognize it (previous owner beat the crap out of it). I went to the dealer to see about getting a new one and they quoted me $300 for the key and $100 to program it (a job the tech admitted takes less than 10 mins to do). $400 for a new key is asinine. Is there anything at all I can do to make this a more reasonable repair? Any harm in using the physical key on a regular basis?

 

Hey guys would the car fail to start if the fuse for EGI comp.1 was blown or would it just make it run ruff

 

I have a 2004, so my information may be dated, but I thought there were guides on how to program the remote on this site. Also, I believe there are places to get the key fob cheaper.

 

Wont start. ....

 

Yea I should have searched a little more b4 asking I found the answer later that night ... But thanks for responding found it it's the fuse for the fuel... I'm prittty sertain this is y y car won't start ... Now I just gatta go fix all the **** I broke while trying to figure out what went wrong :/

 

I have same problem with my '04 and haven't found how to program & get a key fob -- any help, please?

 

Just checking my search results with everyone elses.. the AEM CAI is still the best intake on the market for our car right ?? Nothing newer and better has come out rite ?!?!?!

 

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...-remote-43873/


You should know that our 04 FOBS are junk. Once they die, usually they are dead for good.

If you want, call Paul at Mazmart, He might have some flip keys in stock that would work.

The number you should see is

FCC ID: KPU41788

Visteon No.-41788

 

Kallen,

The AEM/Mazdaspeed is the best aftermarket CAI yes.

The stock intake performs very well already it's hard to beat it.

 

Hi guys im new to the forum this question has probably been answered 1000 times before but im looking into swapping my current vehicle for a 2003 RX8 with 95XXXkms. I have heard the 2003 models have had a few problems and know basically nothing about rotary engines, is it true that the engine has to be rebuilt around 100000kms? i know it probably depends on how well its taken care of but i just want to know if its a smart idea or not as i dont want to have to spend big $$. any information you guys could give me would be much appreciated!!

Thanks,
Kieren

 

While any thing is possible, there are too many differences between the two engines to make it easy. It wouldn't be a plug-n-play swap. The newer series 2 engine has the third oil injector that the S1 does not. The fuel injector setup is different. There are bound to be others that I can't think of at the moment.
There have been engines that reached 180K kms, but you just don't know when an issue is going to pop up. If you are having issues with the engine, the most cost effective path is to just have your engine rebuilt or swap it with another that has been rebuilt.
Many of the issues you read about here will mostly be North America problems. Mazda was playing with computer settings to satisfy the US regulations for emissions and fuel economy. Oil was recommended for the U.S. which many believe to light weight to allow the engine to survive. The rest of the world a heaver weight oil is used.
To really learn about the RX8, read the "stickies" at the top of the New Member forum.

 

Just out of curiosity, does the AEM intake help with IATs at all? I know it is just a metal pipe fulling from the front, but the stock is plastic and takes up quite a bit of space. I was considering buying an AEM intake and having it ceramic coated so if I am in traffic the IATs don't spike hard. The stock appears to pull from the front too, I just don't see how I could do any kind of direct thermal barrier on it easily. I am going to try some foil tape and sleeving for now, but I wanted to see if there was an improvement for the most directly supported intake.

 

Wait... the stupid fob can be replaced by a switchblade style key? Will the buttons work? Does it have to be programmed by dealer or something like that?

 

There's no timetable for when engines need to be rebuilt. Maybe one will evolve as the population of 8s gets well beyond 100,000 miles and age patterns evolve. There were a lot of failures in the first couple of years, especially in hot climates. Revised ECU programming helped that a lot. See if the one you're looking at has the latest flashes (in the US that's MSP16, or at least 4206f a year or so earlier) and get a compression test. Also read the new and potential owner's thread at the top of this forum. Reading that thread is a must before asking too many questions.

Not really the right car to get if you're risk averse. Relatively low production, so you're limited to where you can get it worked on. But you're looking at an 11 year old sports car, so how much security do you really crave?

Ken