Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
10-06-2012, 03:40 PM
#1327
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What is the OEM tire, brand and model for the RX-8? I see a lot of references to Bridgestone Potenza, but when I priced some the other day, the guy said that there are different models of the Potenzas, so even if that's right, I guess I need to know what the OEM model is.
10-06-2012, 03:42 PM
#1328
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They changed a few times. ALL of the original OEM tires are generally considered pretty bad. You can get better tires for cheaper. And I mean all around better. Dry, wet, hydroplaning, snow, ice... Even all seasons are pretty much better than the OEM tires.
Potenzas were used the most. I think there was a Goodyear model used as well.
Potenzas were used the most. I think there was a Goodyear model used as well.
10-06-2012, 03:52 PM
#1329
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No, as she cooks for you, you will most likely end up eating tonnes of junkfood as you cant be bothered to cook for yourself.
In the end, you will weigh more than yourself and her combined.
Buy her a gym membership instead
In the end, you will weigh more than yourself and her combined.
Buy her a gym membership instead
10-06-2012, 11:56 PM
#1330
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I rewired my side markers to work as turn signals,
Pretty obvious where the link between the turn signals and the rest of the lighting system occured. Try disconnecting those and see if it 'fixes'.
The interior light circuit monitors the headlight/running light current to decide on bright or dim, so your mods have put it right on it's trip point.
No load resistors needed if you go to an electronic/trailer type flasher.
Pretty obvious where the link between the turn signals and the rest of the lighting system occured. Try disconnecting those and see if it 'fixes'.
The interior light circuit monitors the headlight/running light current to decide on bright or dim, so your mods have put it right on it's trip point.
No load resistors needed if you go to an electronic/trailer type flasher.
10-07-2012, 01:49 PM
#1331
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They changed a few times. ALL of the original OEM tires are generally considered pretty bad. You can get better tires for cheaper. And I mean all around better. Dry, wet, hydroplaning, snow, ice... Even all seasons are pretty much better than the OEM tires.
Potenzas were used the most. I think there was a Goodyear model used as well.
Potenzas were used the most. I think there was a Goodyear model used as well.
10-08-2012, 04:22 PM
#1332
Changed the oil yesterday and added coolant. today after my drive home i popped the hood and smelled a bit of a burning smell. I hesitate to say burning because it wasnt an "oh my god a belt just burned through" or "my engine will catch fire", no smoke or anything, just a bit of a burn smell.
Cause for concern? i dont normally put my face up to hot engines so i figured maybe you just get that stench normally from running the engine. The best thing I can relate it to is a burning carpet/rug. Once again, wasnt a "fill your garage" sort of thing, just slightly noticed it. and i could only smell it if i put my face over the engine. I could feel the heat coming up from the engine inbetween the left strut and the intake system.
Cause for concern? i dont normally put my face up to hot engines so i figured maybe you just get that stench normally from running the engine. The best thing I can relate it to is a burning carpet/rug. Once again, wasnt a "fill your garage" sort of thing, just slightly noticed it. and i could only smell it if i put my face over the engine. I could feel the heat coming up from the engine inbetween the left strut and the intake system.
10-08-2012, 04:27 PM
#1333
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Our engine bay gets quite hot anyway, popping the hood is always a heat wave to the face. That being said, I would be that your 'burn smell' might be coolant. Do you have a coolant overflow hose extension? or use a factory overflow hose? If you use the factory one, it dumps down onto the fans, which then blow it all over the engine bay.
If you get concerned about overflow, get some clear plastic tubing from a hardware store, about 8 feet or so (more and cut it down is best) and route it from the overflow up onto the windshield. I did that when I was fighting my overflow problem. Zip tied it to the windshield wiper blade so I could see when it started to overflow. I may still have it up there.
it's kinda comforting to be able to see when i dump coolant (well, enough to fill up the tube anyway), even if it is a bit tacky. I haven't figured out a better way to do it yet.
If you get concerned about overflow, get some clear plastic tubing from a hardware store, about 8 feet or so (more and cut it down is best) and route it from the overflow up onto the windshield. I did that when I was fighting my overflow problem. Zip tied it to the windshield wiper blade so I could see when it started to overflow. I may still have it up there.
it's kinda comforting to be able to see when i dump coolant (well, enough to fill up the tube anyway), even if it is a bit tacky. I haven't figured out a better way to do it yet.
10-08-2012, 04:50 PM
#1334
ahh, i see. Yeah it would just be the factory one then.
When I originally added it a few days ago when the engine was cold, I put it to the F adding 50%streamline coolant/50% distilled water. But when I checked it today while it was hot, it was a bit over the Full line. I guess that's probably what I smell then. Thanks RIWWP! :D
When I originally added it a few days ago when the engine was cold, I put it to the F adding 50%streamline coolant/50% distilled water. But when I checked it today while it was hot, it was a bit over the Full line. I guess that's probably what I smell then. Thanks RIWWP! :D
10-08-2012, 09:26 PM
#1335
I dont quite consider this a dumb question but figured I would post here instead of making a new thread.
When dealing with synchro's is it true that a good way to test them is to go through the shifting pattern without using the clutch. I would not and do not consider this to be something I would ever make a habit of, although i do clutches shift my gixer but thats a different story. Similar with flat foot shifting maybe once on a track day but not something i do daily.
When dealing with synchro's is it true that a good way to test them is to go through the shifting pattern without using the clutch. I would not and do not consider this to be something I would ever make a habit of, although i do clutches shift my gixer but thats a different story. Similar with flat foot shifting maybe once on a track day but not something i do daily.
10-08-2012, 10:32 PM
#1336
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Our engine bay gets quite hot anyway, popping the hood is always a heat wave to the face. That being said, I would be that your 'burn smell' might be coolant. Do you have a coolant overflow hose extension? or use a factory overflow hose? If you use the factory one, it dumps down onto the fans, which then blow it all over the engine bay.
If you get concerned about overflow, get some clear plastic tubing from a hardware store, about 8 feet or so (more and cut it down is best) and route it from the overflow up onto the windshield. I did that when I was fighting my overflow problem. Zip tied it to the windshield wiper blade so I could see when it started to overflow. I may still have it up there.
it's kinda comforting to be able to see when i dump coolant (well, enough to fill up the tube anyway), even if it is a bit tacky. I haven't figured out a better way to do it yet.
If you get concerned about overflow, get some clear plastic tubing from a hardware store, about 8 feet or so (more and cut it down is best) and route it from the overflow up onto the windshield. I did that when I was fighting my overflow problem. Zip tied it to the windshield wiper blade so I could see when it started to overflow. I may still have it up there.
it's kinda comforting to be able to see when i dump coolant (well, enough to fill up the tube anyway), even if it is a bit tacky. I haven't figured out a better way to do it yet.riwwp, doesn't the coolant spray on your windshield when it overflows?
i recently had my first overflow (topped off coolant while the car was on an incline and couldnt see coolant level) so now i'm thinking about the clear tubing re-route
10-08-2012, 11:17 PM
#1338
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i wasn't thinking about a catch can specifically but i think that might work...i might look into that this weekend...i just don't like the tubing hanging down into the engine bay and getting coolant everywhere
10-09-2012, 06:51 AM
#1339
Our engine bay gets quite hot anyway, popping the hood is always a heat wave to the face. That being said, I would be that your 'burn smell' might be coolant. Do you have a coolant overflow hose extension? or use a factory overflow hose? If you use the factory one, it dumps down onto the fans, which then blow it all over the engine bay.
If you get concerned about overflow, get some clear plastic tubing from a hardware store, about 8 feet or so (more and cut it down is best) and route it from the overflow up onto the windshield. I did that when I was fighting my overflow problem. Zip tied it to the windshield wiper blade so I could see when it started to overflow. I may still have it up there.
it's kinda comforting to be able to see when i dump coolant (well, enough to fill up the tube anyway), even if it is a bit tacky. I haven't figured out a better way to do it yet.
If you get concerned about overflow, get some clear plastic tubing from a hardware store, about 8 feet or so (more and cut it down is best) and route it from the overflow up onto the windshield. I did that when I was fighting my overflow problem. Zip tied it to the windshield wiper blade so I could see when it started to overflow. I may still have it up there.
it's kinda comforting to be able to see when i dump coolant (well, enough to fill up the tube anyway), even if it is a bit tacky. I haven't figured out a better way to do it yet.While it may have been the coolant, it may have been oil as well. This morning when pulling out of the garage i saw a small puddle underneath where oil pan would be. It was oil. I just changed it to fresh stuff the day before yesterday. Weird though, the filter is on tight and I put a new gasket/plastic seal on from advanced auto that I tightened the f*** out of. Loose oil line perhaps?
10-09-2012, 09:41 AM
#1340
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The few times I have seen it on my 8 with that hose, it's a slow creeping of the coolant, and I see it well before it gets to the end of the hose. But if for some reason I didn't catch it, it would just drip out.
If it DOES end up spraying, I want to know about it NOW, not the next time I pop the hood. And I could care less about what it does to the windshield (which is nothing that some rinsing won't take care of anyway). No, it's not pointing at the driver's side, if it does spray with force it will coat the passenger side.
Again, I don't think this is the best method, but it was a simple method. If I figure out a better way I'll probably comment on it somewhere.
While it may have been the coolant, it may have been oil as well. This morning when pulling out of the garage i saw a small puddle underneath where oil pan would be. It was oil. I just changed it to fresh stuff the day before yesterday. Weird though, the filter is on tight and I put a new gasket/plastic seal on from advanced auto that I tightened the f*** out of. Loose oil line perhaps?
10-09-2012, 10:06 AM
#1341
*Repost*
I dont quite consider this a dumb question but figured I would post here instead of making a new thread.
When dealing with synchro's is it true that a good way to test them is to go through the shifting pattern without using the clutch. I would not and do not consider this to be something I would ever make a habit of, although i do clutches shift my gixer but thats a different story. Similar with flat foot shifting maybe once on a track day but not something i do daily. So is this theory an accurate way to test if you have good or bad synchro's?
*
I dont quite consider this a dumb question but figured I would post here instead of making a new thread.
When dealing with synchro's is it true that a good way to test them is to go through the shifting pattern without using the clutch. I would not and do not consider this to be something I would ever make a habit of, although i do clutches shift my gixer but thats a different story. Similar with flat foot shifting maybe once on a track day but not something i do daily. So is this theory an accurate way to test if you have good or bad synchro's?
*
10-09-2012, 10:50 AM
#1344
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idk if its a good way to test synchros or not but if they are bad it will gring when shifting. when my clutch pedal bracket broke i drove my 8 home from work not using the clutch
10-09-2012, 12:22 PM
#1346
Actually no, it doesn't. If it has enough pressure behind it to "spray" anywhere on the OEM hose, then you have something seriously wrong. Stuck thermostat, blown coolant seal, etc... Otherwise, minor overflow is actually just a dripping, that with the OEM overflow drips onto the fan that then spray it everywhere.
The few times I have seen it on my 8 with that hose, it's a slow creeping of the coolant, and I see it well before it gets to the end of the hose. But if for some reason I didn't catch it, it would just drip out.
If it DOES end up spraying, I want to know about it NOW, not the next time I pop the hood. And I could care less about what it does to the windshield (which is nothing that some rinsing won't take care of anyway). No, it's not pointing at the driver's side, if it does spray with force it will coat the passenger side.
Again, I don't think this is the best method, but it was a simple method. If I figure out a better way I'll probably comment on it somewhere.
Perhaps from the oil filter when you took the old one off? There was some leaking that slowly made it's way down the side of the engineblock/bellhousing and dripped?
The few times I have seen it on my 8 with that hose, it's a slow creeping of the coolant, and I see it well before it gets to the end of the hose. But if for some reason I didn't catch it, it would just drip out.
If it DOES end up spraying, I want to know about it NOW, not the next time I pop the hood. And I could care less about what it does to the windshield (which is nothing that some rinsing won't take care of anyway). No, it's not pointing at the driver's side, if it does spray with force it will coat the passenger side.
Again, I don't think this is the best method, but it was a simple method. If I figure out a better way I'll probably comment on it somewhere.
Perhaps from the oil filter when you took the old one off? There was some leaking that slowly made it's way down the side of the engineblock/bellhousing and dripped?
that's what i thought at first too since I just changed it but I drove it for a day and parked it in the opposite bay. I'm not sure exactly where it came from but I tightened that gasket as tight as humanly possible (well, not that tight, but tight enough so it wouldnt leak. it was an advanced auto parts bolt with plastic washer).
I will put it on ramps tonight and try to see where it is coming from. When I was trying to diagnose why my car wouldnt start before, I saw oil up there too. I'll try taking some pictures tonight from underneath and see where this is coming from.
When I first pickedmy car up from the dealer it intitally broke down on pickup and they said it was an oil pressure/injector something or other. I wonder if the replacement is malfunctioning.
10-09-2012, 04:45 PM
#1347
So i found the source of the oil leak. It's the plug in the oil pan.
So heres my issue:
Before i changed the oil my car is leaking from the oil pan with the old plug, which hadnt been replaced at last oil change.
Now I bought this new plug which looks like this (not this exact 1 obviously)
Buy Dorman - Autograde Oil Drain Plug Standard M14-1.50, Head Size 17mm 65253 at Advance Auto Parts
It has the plug and then a weird plastic ring/gasket.
I changed my oil and put the ring on the bolt and tightened the f*** out of it.
That's when I noticed I had a considerable leak this morning. I put it up on ramps and saw it was deffinitely dripping from here.
I thought maybe that plastic gasket was the problem, so I loosened the bolt a bit, and cut the plastic gasket, and proceeded to tighten the f*** out of it again.
I now have a leak that is a bit slower than the first leak.
I called advanced auto and they said they'd refund me for the plug.
But what should I do about the car? Should I go to mazda and get a new oem plug and change the oil yet again? or could there be something wrong with the spot where you screw it in on my oil pan? (not that it looks damaged).
Would that mean I have to replace my whole oil pan?
So heres my issue:
Before i changed the oil my car is leaking from the oil pan with the old plug, which hadnt been replaced at last oil change.
Now I bought this new plug which looks like this (not this exact 1 obviously)
Buy Dorman - Autograde Oil Drain Plug Standard M14-1.50, Head Size 17mm 65253 at Advance Auto Parts
It has the plug and then a weird plastic ring/gasket.
I changed my oil and put the ring on the bolt and tightened the f*** out of it.
That's when I noticed I had a considerable leak this morning. I put it up on ramps and saw it was deffinitely dripping from here.
I thought maybe that plastic gasket was the problem, so I loosened the bolt a bit, and cut the plastic gasket, and proceeded to tighten the f*** out of it again.
I now have a leak that is a bit slower than the first leak.
I called advanced auto and they said they'd refund me for the plug.
But what should I do about the car? Should I go to mazda and get a new oem plug and change the oil yet again? or could there be something wrong with the spot where you screw it in on my oil pan? (not that it looks damaged).
Would that mean I have to replace my whole oil pan?
10-09-2012, 07:41 PM
#1348
I assume this is just my tanny showing some wear but figured I would look into it to be safe, just did a fluid change and noticed around the drain plug and other locations on the tranny what seem to be some stress cracks. No leaks present everything is tight and sound drives perfectly just woundering if this is something I should be concerned about or if its typical. I'll attach some photo's below.
