Awesome info I just spent hours reading the first 10 posts or so. Trying to decide between this or a 350z very good info

 

Would adding water meth injection on an already fi rx8 necessitate a new/ tweaked tune if one were adding it solely for cooling benefits and or as safety measure?

 

Two Questions, why on our cars does the clutch line need to be bleed after changing the clutch, is it just due to the change of position of the clutch release cylinder extender? Seems any other reason would be unnecessary.

Also I have the oil filer neck assembly off the block with the the solenoids and all, noticed that over the years it seems some oil froth (for lack of a better term) has built up around the bottom, would running water threw this assembly to flush this out cause any damage to anything, Im not sure if the solenoids are exposed internally. Otherwise i was just going to do my best with some shop towels.

Thanks

 

adding water meth to a engine that is already tuned for FI and functioning well--can be done without an additional tune. You will lose a little power in doing so. It is a good insurance ( if installed and used correctly) and it is also a good way of keeping the engine as clean as possible.
Is it worth the cost? That depends on the owner and what they want.

other question--the solenoids are not exposed--you can clean it with anything you want.

 

Assumed as much just wanted to make sure before i made a no no
Thanks

 

So basically it would be preferable to install the water meth injection before I get tuned.

 

if you want to tune that is dependent on water methanol injection then you are on the edge imho all the time. The only way water methanol will give you more power on this engine is by allowing more advanced timing. Advancing the timing , to a certain degree, is not as beneficial as on a recip engine. The risk versus benefit becomes not worth it.
Water meth is a good insurance policy, but you STILL need to pay attention to quality gas and intake charge temps.
I have ran w/m injection for some years now--it does keep the engine cleaner. That I can testify too,, but with just a 75 mm nozzle I loose 10 rwhp ( almost across the board)evidenced by dyno.

 

Could someone help me out, im looking for a thread I came across a couple months back, was a turbo build thread on a lightning yellow rx8, i believe it was yellow. Stood out because the intake manifold was painted yellow. If it sounds familiar could anyone point me in the direction I have been looking for it all morning.

Thanks

 

/\ try searching threads made by 'bumblebee'

 

09factor had the yellow lower intake if memory serves correct.

 

If i need to stop my 8 when its not warm yet, what should i do? I've gotten a few answers but I need a straight one.

 

Never turn it off while the air pump (vacuum cleaner noise) is running - the injectors are chucking in extra fuel to light off the catalyst - at least wait until that stops, 40 seconds max.

Rev the engine to around 3k then turn it off at the key.

The engine turning over after it's off will sweep any residual fuel/oil out as it coasts to a stop.

Don't go over 3k, that would open more injectors and make the excess fuel situation more worserer.

 

i was figuring that the renesis rotary engine changes it's own oil every 2000 miles or so , so are actual oil changes important ?

 

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No really .. not a flame

 

prettysure he is refering to the fact that it burns oil .

ronny: while it is true that it burns oil , it's only about a quart every 1500miles or so . Certainly not enough to keep the oil fresh and not requiring to be changed.

 

I just ripped up my fender liner on my paseenger side wheel. The screws are missing from the front portion of my undertray as well. Anyone know any negatives to running without the undertray and wheel liners? I'll probably take them off tomorrow until I find replacements.

 

they are critical for directing air flow to the radiator.

get replacement screws/liners/ whatever you need to do, but keep them there.

lack of wheel well liners.. im not sure, i feel as though water will get in those connections to the foglights and the little "flap" that hides the "easy" access for the sparkplugs is right there too. I would keep them on.

you can find replacement plastic screws at NAPA or a similar parts store, if you are really lazy you can order them through mazdatrix for a little under $1 each

 

good info. Thanks

 

I had a similar issue where a part of my undertray actually melted off. Also had the wheel liner issue too. I temporarily used a waterproof heavy duty duct tape to seal it so water cant get in.

You can find the liners at onlinemazdaparts.com for about 40-50$. Thats where i got mine. They also sell the fasteners.

As far as the screws for the undertray goes, I went to lowes and I got these silver all-purpose automotive screws. They work great. I dont remember how many of each, but it gets a bit confusing. Half of the undertray uses the screws and then the other half uses the fasteners if I remember right. The portion that connects the undertray to the black guard underneath the front of the bumper is what uses the screws i think.

 

OK
I will add that a filter change is also a good thing.

Isn't there almost 2 liters of oil still in the system even after you've drained the oil?

 

i wonder if a vehicle burned 5 quarts every 3000 miles, would you have to do oil changes as long as you keep adding oil?

 

thanks!

 

do coilovers affect the stiffness of the car? I like how the rx8 is and i wouldnt want to make it softer.

 

Coilovers themselves do not make the ride stiffer, it's the spring rate and the strut dampening that will make it stiffer. Generally coilovers will make the rider stiffer though because the spring rates are higher than stock.

 

i went on a couple cobblestone roads today...a lot of the plastic was shaky inside and i was wondering if it was that bumpy for you guys as well