genetsiu

thank you,
Godfather!!

Rx8 Dave

Seems pulling the CIRCUIT & EGI would be a lot easier than trying to reach down and pull the ESS. I've pulled the CIRCUIT & EGI to deflood an Rx8. Just wondering why people pull the ESS

Williard

iTrader: (18)

Mod Edit:
Not buying or selling outside the classifieds.
-RIWWP

Rx8 Dave

Can you tell me: (1) does an '04 have a PCV valve? If so, (2) where is it? And, last - (3) I'd appreciate the posting of a diagram of the emissions equipment and its location on an '04. Thanks

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

No pcv on the rx8. Sorry at work can't post diagram.

Rx8 Dave

Thanks 1.3 ! If have time later maybe you could post diagram?

Bugler

iTrader: (2)

I was changing my spark plugs. The very first one I took out would not go all the way back in. It looked crooked, so I went and did the other 3 just fine and got back to the first one. It won't go in. What do I do!?

It goes in smoothly for a few threads, but crooked. I spent an hour under the car trying to align it properly and I finally got it in a bit straight but I'd have to use some force to get it to continue straight. Should I go about it that way to correct the cross threading?

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

This?

ken-x8

Don't force it. I had the same thing happen some time ago changing plugs on a Honda. I bought a tap that matched the plug threads, and used that to clean up the threads. Make sure you get a starter tap, which has a gentle taper that will help get it lined up. Grease the tap to lube it and also so any shavings will stick to the tap and not wind up inside the engine. Go gently, turning in half a turn at a time and backing off a quarter before the next half.

There are also thread chasers that I think are less aggressive than taps. Google "spark plug thread chaser."

Ken

badinfluence

OMG so many hoses!

Bugler

iTrader: (2)

Grease the chaser with what? Is wd40 ok? Or an actual thick grease?

G_ man

iTrader: (2)

^ Use bearing grease not wd40

ken-x8

Yep - grease. Wheel bearing grease is first choice, since it's sticky.

Personally, I'd never use WD-40 for anything. Would you trust a product developed by someone who had 39 failures? Even worse than drinking 7-Up.

Two rotary specific watch-its just occurred to me. One is that if it's a leading plug make sure that the rotor is turned so that you won't be poking into an apex seal if you run the tap all the way down. The other is that the hole for the trailing plug isn't full diameter all the way down, so don't panic or force it when you hit bottom.

Ken

Bugler

iTrader: (2)

I got a packet of spark plug grease. Will that work? If I use bearing grease, how do I clean out any residue before putting the plug back in?

It's the front rotor bottom plug. I think it's trailing? So I won't have to worry about the apex seal.

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

"L"ower plug is leading
" T"op plug is Trailing

Bugler

iTrader: (2)

Very well then! It's the one that looks flat on top, that looks least like a traditional spark plug.

Anyways forgive my ignorance but how do I know the apex seal isn't in the way? And how do I rotate the engine if it is?

I know, amateur questions.

ken-x8

Peer into the hole, using a flashlight, mirror, scraped knuckles and whatever dexterity and patience you have. If you need to turn the engine, you put a wrench on the crank (oops - I mean eccentric shaft) pulley. Or put it in gear and push it.

Although it occurs to me... when you get a tap or chaser, match off its length against the length of the spark plug. Wrap tape around it at that point. Then as long as you don't turn it beyond that you won't be in danger of hitting anything.

Not sure what spark plug grease is. You want something sticky to catch any chips. With grease on the tap it's not like you'll be shoving it into the engine. I think that when I did this on my Honda I cleaned the hole afterwards by sticking a piece of rag in and taking it out by unscrewing it.

Amateur questions are fine. It's the amateurs who don't ask questions who are the problem.

Ken

Bugler

iTrader: (2)

Permatex Dielectric Tune-Up Grease 09980: Shop the best Dielectric Compound at Advance Auto Parts

That's the grease I'm talking about.

Is first gear fine for moving the rotor? I didn't know it was possible to move the car with it off in gear. Hell, I park it like that! Maybe it's time to rethink the way I park...

Thanks for the tape idea.

Luckily it's the easiest plug to reach. The hard to reach ones were a cinch.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Leave it in neutral, get a 19 or 21mm (i forget which) socket on a ratchet, put that on the front nose bolt and rotate the engine by hand. Easier if the air box is removed, more room for your hand.

Bugler

iTrader: (2)

Thanks. What would I do without all you awesome people here...

How much room will I need? How far do I turn the bolt to go like 2"? Half turn? 6 turns? I've never done that on any car before so that's new territory for me. I'm a very basic shade tree mechanic!

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

The rotors turn at 1/3rd the speed of the e-shaft (to which the nose bolt is attached). So 1 rotation of the e-shaft will move the same spot on the next rotor. To get an apex seal out of the way, it will only need 1/3rd to 2/3rds of a rotation of the e-shaft, depending on where you want to put the seal in relation to the plug hole.

Bugler

iTrader: (2)

Again thank you. I'll be doing this in a couple hours when I get home from work. Wish me luck! I'll update when I finish.

You guys are the best.

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

You should be able to see right down the spark plug hole if you remove the driver side tire.

Bugler

iTrader: (2)

That's the apex seal? Awesome. I wouldn't have known what I was looking for! Thanks a bunch.

You guys are the best!

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

Yeah, if you see that, turn the engine.

and honestly, I'm freaking lazy, I bump the starter..