Felix_Wankel_fan88

Where can i order radiator guards?
seems like a bad design to have exposed radiators at just the same width as most cars' tires traveling down the roadways...

wcs

iTrader: (2)

racingbeat.com

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

I got some aluminum gutter screen and trimmed them to size for the oil coolers. There are vendors that will sell you some, but these are cheaper.

Felix_Wankel_fan88

when you added this screening, did you have to remove the front bumper?

WreakLoosE

Yea... Looking back on my question I see its not too clear.. When I typed it my brain was fried from all the head scratching Ive been doing trying to figure this crap out..

Any How.. What Im trying to do is:
Set Coolant fan point. - I Think I got that
Figure out how to raise Met. oil Pump - (add more oil if possible)
Dwell Settings for my BHR - I got that done..
Adjust AFR My car seems to be running too much gas..

Current map is Stage1 AP off the shelf map.
Dwell Settings adjusted.
radiator fan engagement point adjusted to 85/86/90C
Increased Idol from 800 to 875.

Where I am at this point is trying to do some Data Logs and figure out from the data collected what I can do to adjust the AFR's. I did use the MM method of data logging..

I did
about a 10 sec. Idol log.
4 gear cruse at about 4100 rpm for 30 seconds..
Then I did a WOT pull in 2nd gear and 3rd gear

I thought I would be able to look at the LTFT and STFT in the Access port tuner race program but i don't see them displayed. So At this point I need to be pointed to what aspects should I adjust in the TR program for the fuel trims, and what to base it off of from the data logs i have..

Attached here is a second gear pull at wot log that I did can you see what I have here.. I used MM's criteria and added a few things I wanted to see.. but is there anything I missed?

Thank you greatly for any help.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Wreckloose, that is certainly far too......smart(?) for this thread i recommend starting a thread in the ECU tuning subforum. It is going to get pretty involved and no one should be flaming you for it there.

WreakLoosE

Ok.. I was thinking about doing that... Thanks RIWWP.

Felix_Wankel_fan88

this seem reasonable for the mods listed?
2004 Mazda RX8

WreakLoosE

NOT AT ALL...

If he has 310 hp off of what he has, everybody with a turbo kit will be mad as hell because they spent like 8 grand for the turbo kit and tuning to get 300 + hp. With those simple bolt on not at all likely.

He probably has around 170HP with what you have listed depending on the health of the engine.. Ask him who tuned it and what map is he running on his access port..

You are doing VERY WELL if you are getting into the 200's at the wheels in a Non Turbo set up..

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

^ not to mention he has an intake that is proven to lose power. The mods he has that actually might be giving him power are, at most, offsetting that.

Ask him for a dyno sheet

Jett2009

What's going on guys. Wondering if i should bite he bullet and replace all 3 solenoids under the UIM as my ssv sol. is shot. Having the same problems as a member with the 30min driving powerloss problem. Sick of bad mpg and no power on long drives. Cant fully enjoy her anymore. anyways, any recommendations??

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

It is very unlikely that you have lost all 3 solenoids at the same time....hell It is common to have one quit.

If you have one gone...replace it and don't worry about the others

As for the 310WHP car...YA RIGHT

I got to 208 with header, 3" full flow exhaust, ported, ceramic sealed motor and custom intake....

Grace_Excel

iTrader: (5)

Unless you have all three CELs indicating that those solenoids are not working, otherwise, you're just wasting money on them; use that allowance on a new set of coils and spark plugs instead. How do you know that your SSV isn't just stuck? What are your CELs?

-_- just.gimme.my.ticket

doesnt the rx8 make its peak power around 8400 rpm? that things at 7752 and its a 6 speed

Jett2009

Grace. I've got the circuit low on blah blah blah lol. Cant remember exactly but that's the only one throwing. I was thinking maybe instead of pulling it i could just save the money and replace the Apv sol. with the ssv sol. That is the one that only works for 60 sec at start-up right? I know they have the block off plates so it cant be that important. And i don't think its stuck because I've sea-foamed twice and Mazda did a full decarb free of charge for f-ing up my seat. Plus all through winter i never pulled a code while temps were below 50F. Its the heat f-ing with the sol i think.

Jett2009

and i moving down to MIA in a month and temps never get that low so id rather have a rx8 that makes the power its suppose to. I know our cars love the cold air. Read it and the butt dyno tingles when its cold lol

Grace_Excel

iTrader: (5)

Yep, that's correct and the code for the Air solenoid is P2259. Question, did you recently spray the engine bay with water? Because that's the most common way to foul that solenoid. I would replace just that one. I'm not sure fixing it would gain you a little mpg, but it will save your Cat-converter. Check the post I made when I replaced mine(link below). Anyway, besides the mpg, if you are having problems with lack of power, consider replacing your coil and spark plugs if they have more than 30,000 and 15,000 miles in it respectively.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...3/#post4382917

-_- just.gimme.my.ticket

searched....

will a midpipe eventually cause a air pump to fail if still connected or is it just dead weight at this point?
idk y it would but hey! im in the right thread LOL

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

No, the air pump just has a valve that opens up and forces fresh air into the exhaust until the ECU sees the O2 sensor up to temperature, assuming that the cat is also up to temp at the same time.

-_- just.gimme.my.ticket

so then basically remove till smog time....anyone know the weight to the air pump and its removable components

btw thnx 4 the quick reply riwwp

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

Dare I?

I think I shall.

Can anyone clarify this following ( I know it causes a lot of confusion but members are to intimidated to ask for the sake of the unspeakable repercussions). Besides terminology as its referenced two ways.

What is the difference between the nomenclature OMP and MOP

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
Personally, I'd rather get a smart-a** response than none at all.
Bugs me when people get an answer to a problem
and never follow up with the results.

1.3_LittersOfFurry

iTrader: (4)

Nothing.

MOP metering oil pump
OMP oil metering pump.

Mazda calls it MOP.

Over the years it's gone from mechanical (s4 rx7 and older) to electrical (s5 rx7 and up). But the lines have never changed till the s2 rx8 came out.

Carbon8

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, assumed as much but didn't find any literature to support it.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Same thing ....