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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 03:22 AM
  #776  
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Originally Posted by mysql
Now that I'm recirculating, will the boost-only connection work in my favor?
If you are now running 10 psi, definitely run the boost-only port. And if you are re-circ'd, there shouldn't be any issues at all. In fact, I still recommend you try A+B ports or just B to boost-vacuum. Each application is different and you should notice a difference between the 2 settings.

Also note that as you run higher boost, or more airflow through the Synchronic BOV, you will get more of a howl, like a supersonic sound.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 03:23 AM
  #777  
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Originally Posted by Grouch
my car seems to have the same symptoms SQL had at the beginning when he posted this: http://youtube.com/watch?v=HFovWJhUBkA

but then when he used the same MAF housing as me, his car worked a little better so I thought I could stick to my MAF housing. but he recirc'd his BOV, and his car worked even better, but then you never did, and I have the same one as you, the HKS SSQV so I thought I could get away with not recirculating mine. I guess I'll order that recirc. fitting now and eventually do that, and in the meantime hope the understanding comes to you or anybody soon. if you have the time to set me up with an intake, please let me know. thanks

actually the greddy maf housing seems to be working just fine, don't have any issues with it right now. once i recirculated my bov, everything worked out ok.

i have a feeling if your car isn't functioning properly right now, the recirculate isn't going to help, but it's worth a try.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 03:25 AM
  #778  
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Originally Posted by synchronic
If you are now running 10 psi, definitely run the boost-only port. And if you are re-circ'd, there shouldn't be any issues at all. In fact, I still recommend you try A+B ports or just B to boost-vacuum. Each application is different and you should notice a difference between the 2 settings.

Also note that as you run higher boost, or more airflow through the Synchronic BOV, you will get more of a howl, like a supersonic sound.
i installed a boost only line today, will try it out in the morning thanks.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 04:31 AM
  #779  
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Originally Posted by mysql
actually the greddy maf housing seems to be working just fine, don't have any issues with it right now. once i recirculated my bov, everything worked out ok.

i have a feeling if your car isn't functioning properly right now, the recirculate isn't going to help, but it's worth a try.
Damn recirc. fitting is probably gonna take over a week to get to me. My car functions well at pedal position under 20%, and starts up just as good as yours, but under load is like your video, where it gets pinned rich at 10.0, then starts to bog a bit, but not super nasty like, just powerless. It's still backfiring a bit, and the occasional stall.

I guess I'll stick my emu back in for now unless some new ideas surface. it only takes a few minutes to put it in or take it out anyways. hopefully more greddy/ap owners give feedback soon.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 07:47 AM
  #780  
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its also possible the map is just too rich. But you have to tread carefully if you investigate in that direction.

Also, are you aware that your intake pipe needs to be modified to accomidate recirculating? Just checking.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 10:42 AM
  #781  
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I really hope my FI installation goes as smoth as possible
However reading what other FI owners are going through I’m getting a little worried I might not have such luck.
I found a accessTuner shop within 2 and half hours from where I am located… would they be able to help if run into problems with my AP on a turbo set up??
Just wondering
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 11:02 AM
  #782  
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Thanks
I’ll update as soon as I get my AP
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 11:32 AM
  #783  
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This chart shows two RX8 the same except Ngo has a header, and Razz has the Mazsport Ignition w/ lite flywheel

He is running leaner with the same map.
He has varying STFT and LTFT.

Base run is me with a few runs of Ngo. This shows the RPM vs MAF

Since the data is so far aprt on the scale look at the RPM

2nd chart shows

MAF vs RPM

Razz

9056 RPM
226.91 MAF

NgoRX8

9055 RPM
213.97 MAF
Attached Thumbnails Cobb AccessPORT Discussion-image7.gif   Cobb AccessPORT Discussion-image8.gif  

Last edited by Razz1; Mar 23, 2008 at 11:53 AM.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 11:46 AM
  #784  
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what accounts for the drastically different RPM and MAF lines?

blue and yellow, first graph
pink and turquoise, second graph
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 11:59 AM
  #785  
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Different gear I believe.

Could be the throttle position which caused a different load.

Both cars contained 527 lbs of pasenger weight same road.

I believe NgoRX8 run may have been in 4th, mine in 3rd.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 03:06 PM
  #786  
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Originally Posted by mysql
its also possible the map is just too rich. But you have to tread carefully if you investigate in that direction.

Also, are you aware that your intake pipe needs to be modified to accomidate recirculating? Just checking.

Yeah, I was thinking the 3.5b map is just too rich so I'm waiting to see if Jeff trusts me enough with leaner maps, lol. I'd very carefully move leaner one step at a time. The car does seem like it's not too far off.

Yeah, I gotta pull the pipe slightly below and to the left of the pipe that has my bov out and get a 1" outlet welded on. Is that what you're talking about? I was going to do it right beside the two small outlet nipples, right after the MAF. thanks
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 03:08 PM
  #787  
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Originally Posted by Razz1

Both cars contained 527 lbs of pasenger weight same road.

.
please tell me that is 3 people ...
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 03:56 PM
  #788  
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I've seen Razz. I wouldn't be suprised if it was four and a body in the trunk.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 05:02 PM
  #789  
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Razz is perfect racer-size.
It would take four of him to hit 527 + a set of golf clubs.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 05:06 PM
  #790  
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Ok Wide Range is the A/F.

But someone requested this.
Attached Thumbnails Cobb AccessPORT Discussion-image9.gif   Cobb AccessPORT Discussion-image11.gif  

Last edited by Razz1; Mar 23, 2008 at 05:32 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 06:03 PM
  #791  
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2004 6MT NA:

I'm still trying to find the right map. I've tried everything from "NA 1_3b" thru "NA 1_5a" and I still can't get my trims where I think they should be. My idle STFT on every map I've used will settle down to 0 within a short amount of time, but my idle LTFT will only get down to 12 on "5a". The LTFT was almost always pinned on the "b" series, so I'm sure that can't be good.

Currently I'm running "5a" and my idle STFT hangs around zero +/-1, my idle LTFT sits at 12, and my loaded LTFT drops to zero. I just can't seem to adjust it far enough to get it to zero out.

The original injectors are in the car and have never been cleaned AFAIK. They do have 60,000 miles on them however.

I plan on going FI in the future, so would it be benificial to just upgrade to a higher flowing injector now and kill two birds with one stone? And if so, who/where could I get a good set from? I apologize for this running a little OT.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 06:17 PM
  #792  
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sorry if this has been answered JACKHAIN- have you actually reset your trims?
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 06:20 PM
  #793  
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You used 30 maps in 6 days?

Need to let them settle for awhile.

Last edited by Razz1; Mar 23, 2008 at 06:25 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 06:21 PM
  #794  
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Originally Posted by zoom44
sorry if this has been answered JACKHAIN- have you actually reset your trims?
Yes I have. Using the AP. I flash the map, turn the key to off, turn it back to on, reset via AP, turn off the car and wait 10+ seconds before starting the engine. I think I'm doing everything right. The one thing I didn't try is the brake pedal method of resetting them, but the AP should be doing the same thing.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 06:25 PM
  #795  
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Originally Posted by Razz1
You used 6 maps in 6 days?

Need to let them settle for awhile.
Four maps...I skipped a couple. I did leave the 1_0 map on there for a few days before changing it. The numbers just never seemed right. I'll leave it alone for the coming week and see where they're at on Friday.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 06:40 PM
  #796  
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Originally Posted by r0tor
Got it... i'll give them a whirl tomorrow/monday and report back
Jeff - the new maps are looking pretty good...

- idle was dead perfect the moment I started her up!
- i'm finally seeing non frightening afr's again!
- LTFT's are a 0 everywhere so far

i'll continue monitoring before calling it a complete success, but its looking pretty damn good
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 06:50 PM
  #797  
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Originally Posted by r0tor
Jeff - the new maps are looking pretty good...

-
That's good to hear. A few others are reporting similar success.
We will start trimming those tunes up a bit for more high-end power.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 06:54 PM
  #798  
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Originally Posted by jackhain
Yes I have. Using the AP. I flash the map, turn the key to off, turn it back to on, reset via AP, turn off the car and wait 10+ seconds before starting the engine. I think I'm doing everything right. The one thing I didn't try is the brake pedal method of resetting them, but the AP should be doing the same thing.
try it then- ACTUALLY reset your LTFT with the COBB and then check it before you do anything else. If its not at zero then do it the correct way
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 06:58 PM
  #799  
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Originally Posted by r0tor
Jeff - the new maps are looking pretty good...

- idle was dead perfect the moment I started her up!
- i'm finally seeing non frightening afr's again!
- LTFT's are a 0 everywhere so far

i'll continue monitoring before calling it a complete success, but its looking pretty damn good
I've achieved similiar results with the new maps Jeff has sent me. I am very pleased so far! Thanks Jeff!

r0tor - I'm sure you have posted this elsewhere but what mods do you have? I am running the MS CAI and a midpipe.

Last edited by OnRails; Mar 23, 2008 at 07:01 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2008 | 07:01 PM
  #800  
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Originally Posted by zoom44
try it then- ACTUALLY reset your LTFT with the COBB and then check it before you do anything else. If its not at zero then do it the correct way
I'll give it a shot. Right after I reset via the AP, the car idles poorly. The STFT starts in the mid 20s and slowly counts down to 0 while the LTFT climbs up to compensate. I'll still try resetting it using the "official" method, but I suspect I'll get the same results. Thanks for your help.
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