Doing so *should* then have the effect of STFT hovering back to 0 and the LTFT dropping to 0...under ideal conditions...correct?

 

Correct.

 

Just making sure to confirm my suspicions...thanks...

 

When this thread is quiet I get lonely. I hope the mailman delivered my AP today.

MM, when you shipped via not-UPS did you get a tracking number or did you just lick a handful of stamps and throw it in a mailbox?

 

Hey MM, I had replied Tuesday to your email about informing you when I got my AP. I got it Tues and emailed you that evening requesting maps for my car. Don't know if you just overlooked my email or I overlooked your reply, but I didn't get the maps from you yet.

My email I replied to you with was iomag@ragnar1.net

I know you are pretty busy, but when you get a chance, can you send them to me?
My info again is 2006 GT, completely stock as far as the engine goes, and I am in Minneapolis.

Thanks!

 

Heh...only reason I've been quiet is that I have a TON of work...amid playing with muh AP...

Everything is still hunky dory...contemplating moving to 3.0...gonna need another fill up soon...shell 93 so far every time...

 

Our Shell is 92 up here - still on first tank.

where's that blasted cable...

 

What cable??

 

He can't find his scanalyzer.

 

for those of you with the greddy turbo kit...do you still have that intake manifold block off plate installed?

 

get rid of that crap. You can remove it by unscrewing 4 bolts or so and sliding it out. No need to pull the whole manifold off.

 

on my way home from work i gunned it and saw a bunch of 14's and then a 15.5 pop up on the screen at 7000 rpms and i immediately got a giant lump in my throat and backed off... something is wrong. My idle and cruise afr was also around 15.0-15.2 more often then not which seemed too high but i'm not sure if thats where it was set.

I flashed to Cobb's stage 1 and have some grumpy idle problems like normal after a reset. Hit half throttle and saw much more comforting mid to low 13's at 6k rpms. I think i will explore that map more for a little while.

 

took the car up to 10 psi just now. Afr is a slight bit leaner. 10.8 afr. But I only glanced at it only for a sec.

 

what's it for anyways? i never understood it

 

i'm going to go remove it right now!

 

too late...i removed it. if something bad happens, it's all your fault. and i get something free from your store.

 

even if the aux ports do open, i shouldn't see a drop in pressure. greddy keeps telling me it was put it to help with the tuning aspect.

what is this really cool kit? how 'bout some free Defi gauges? hahaha

 

good to see im not the only one....i guess ill give cobbs flash a try until jeff comes up with a solution......do you have a cat????

 

I raised the boost to 10 psi and this evening I took it up to 6,000 rpm in 5th gear. The car started to bog down and when I looked at the wideband, it read 10.0 AFR (it doesn't read any richer). So the issue I had with accelerating with the crap maf housing is appearing for me with the higher boost + higher rpms with the greddy maf housing. I didn't have any issue with the lower gears + WOT at 7 psi, so I'm guessing the greddy maf housing is decent but not perfect.

The car runs great though. It pulls like a train. I don't want to make any adjustments or changes till I get the CAI in place. No sense in tuning for hack hardware.

 

I have solutions. I'm just swamped. Gimme a couple of hours to catch back up.

Actually, its probably the scaling of your P2 injectors.
The scaling algorythm is not perfect and since your P2s are bigger than those in my car, I had to take an educated guess at the value and scale it slightly rich for safety's sake.
Which calibration are you running now?

 

thanks jeff.....

 

just got back from the store and noticed a wierd metal ringing sound coming from the middle of my dash....but only at heavier throttle....i think it may be "marbles in a can"....im going to switch to stock flash and see if it goes away....btw im still running with MM's 1_1 A map.....

 

Some tuning tweaks you might want to try that could make a difference are the following:

1) Run only Port B on the back of the BOV instead of running both ports
2) Increase the pre-load of the spring

Make sure though that you are always running boost-only port if you are running anything over 7 psi of boost. And only stick with setup #1 so long as you are not getting any compressor flutter or flutterdump. You can also run #1 with the pre-load spring completely removed.

Here's what you don't want to hear:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ffj01k64AZI

 

Are you NA?

Anyway try the 1.b map, that should fix the top end.

 

Using 3 5b. The LTFT was +5 and the STFT at idle was -3 today.




At 7 psi there was no issue, at 10, I did hear some surge. Previously I ran with the boost only hooked up, and the two ports hooked up to vacuum. That was OK, but the car didn't feel as good as when the boost-only was removed. The reason was I had not been recirculating the BOV, so when I gradually accelerate and am at -10 psi, air is escaping out the BOV and it takes more throttle to transition into boost. Without the boost-only connection, at -12 psi, the BOV clamps shut and it's easier to get into boost since air isn't escaping and thus more air is pushed into the engine.

Now that I'm recirculating, will the boost-only connection work in my favor?