I never had any issues with a reset before but I had the stock injector sizes and the OEM flash. I started it twice and it hasn't died yet but it is running pretty rough. I wouln't mind if it went from rich to stoich, but when the AFR spikes to 18 I get a little worried. I may just need to get it out and drive it but I am a little concerned with it catching on fire.

 

WOW you guys are fast....!
Until i wrote my post the thread changed already page having 10 newer posts !
LOL

 

Then you won't need to do anything special. It will work just fine (if it is ever available for the Europen and Asian market.

Correct. As long as you have enough fuel to support the airflow you are creating, it doesn't matter what the actual manifold pressure is.

Same answer.
As long as your fuel injectors will provide the correct amount of fuel, your blower can be all over the place.
However, for drivability reasons, I'd get that figured out before you start adding any new toys!

Uh, why? What is wrong with the car?

 

its pinging pretty bad...i cant press the gas even remotely hard without it pinging.... .i though maybe it was bad gas but it wasnt....i dont know what to do so im just going to go back stock and take it to mazda....then start saving for a turbo....i dont see how my coils can go bad after 3000 miles.....

 

if you're going turbo in the future, selling the AP is pretty silly. You should just take it to the dealer, and hold off on selling crap off till you find out what's wrong with it.

 

I'm thinking 1_1a looking at the LTFT.

 

The difference is +1.5 currently. Going to 1a will add +2 to the total

 

I guess you don't really need to change it at all since it is so close anyway. I look at the LTFT as more of an average. After awhile STFT is just changing things on a temp basis. I was just trying to reinforce the idea that if it's positive go "a" not "b"

 

Yeah, when you're within 1-2 points, I don't think it matters much.

 

J,

That's what I've been wanting to see. Awesome. Thanks for posting up the vid.

Double D

 

Yes, for you, you'll notice the lean afr just after throttle tip in from the int-x is gone. I can't express just how fabulous the rx-8's pcm is without piggybacks.

 

do you have to keep the AP plugged in after you flash? Seems like it would be annoying if you did because of the location of it. I would probably hit the plug with my knee as I was going for the clutch

 

wish i could find out for myself...

 

no, flash it, then toss it in your sock drawer. You never need to plug it back in unless you want to change the flash on your car, or sell the AP (you need to uninstall the flash the AP installed before it can work on someone else's car)

we're using it temporarily to watch fuel trims.

 

Files sent.

 

awesome...this is definitley on my list of mods to get

 

Received my AP this evening and proceeded w/out swapping my AEM intake for stock, to flash pcm w/Cobb Stage 1. I got the infamous "Not connected to PCM" that evryone has mentioned, but unplugged dongle from port and second time around succesfully installed and flashed.

Alot of popping from the exhaust initially and idle was a tad rough, After a couple of drives around the block my STFT started to settle @ 0, 1, and -1. I then decided to kick it up a notch, STFT stayed within -2 and 4.

I then begin to notice my idling smoothing way out and stft locked in @ 0 and -1 @ idle.

I open her up... and all I can say is wow. Definately a lil more "UMPH" in the upper powerband 4000 and up. Also the car is so damn smooth, I can't believe it's not butter (sorry that was cheesy) but anyway my AFR @ WOT were between 14.9-11.8.

While normal driving "in between shifts" my afr will drop to 20.3 anybody else experience this?

Other than that, don't know why louis was experiencing problems but Cobb stage 1 flash w/AEM intake works wonderfully for me

 

Dan, I promise to cancel all travel/plans in order to make the next Fudds meet (or any other meet) when you have this!

 

You don't care what the AFR is when you're off the gas and have no load on the engine. 20.3 = no fuel. You'll get that just by engine braking too.

At light throttle cruising you can do 16 AFR and it's OK. Under WOT for NA, I think you want to be 13 or so, maybe a tad richer. For FI you want to be 11.5 range, plus or minus .5

 

That is why my powermod has worked so well - it may be a piggyback but it only modifies the stock maps .....

 

hey Brettus, my FI upgrade choices aren't so crazy are they? lol

 

What temp are the fans set to? I got to 190F and they never turned on.

 

I don't think the AP displays 0 fuel properly on the AFR display. It always showed "20.3" when I watched it. My UEGO shows "---" when there is no fuel. It shouldn't matter though, you never really hit 20.3 AFR for an extended period of time during normal driving, so when you see it, just imagine 0 fuel

 

I never said they were crazy .
Been a mission to get to where you are now though hasn't it ?

 

I don't know if it's a mission. It's been more of a waiting game. I never claimed the GReddy kit was awesome. It was just a good bang for the buck if you could get the damn thing to run without blowing your engine on the emanage. Once the 3071R came out, the GReddy kit became mind blowing. And now that the AccessPort is out, the fuel system is now complete. I really don't think it gets better than this (Besides cutting GReddy out of the picture so we don't need to buy 2 turbos and 2 fuel management systems).