Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
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From: Ohio
Since the gas is the primary source of carbon that can build up in our engines; I keep reading posts about using only "quality" gasoline. Does this refer to the octane of the fuel, or to the brand of gas station that you're getting the gas from? I always use 93 octane fuel, have put 91 in on two or three occasions when 93 wasn't available, but would it better if I tried to keep getting my fuel from the same chain of gas stations instead of the Gaint Eagle "Get-Go" that is the closest gas station to my house? What is the preferred supplier on rx8club? Shell, BP, etc?
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From: Buddhist Monastery, High Himalaya Mtns. of Tibet
There is what is called "Top Tier" gasoline. Top Tier is a trade mark that is owned by a marketing company. Brands can have their gasoline up to certain standards can carry the "Top Tier" name (if they have paid the associated fees). Most of the most popular big name brands carry this symbol. Not having this does not mean it is not of quality. It just means that the they haven't had their product tested or paid the fees to be apart of that group. BP is one brand that is of quality, yet doesn't carry the "Top Tier" certification.
Shell V-Power seems to be the preferred brand for many here.
The base stock of gasoline is all the same. It's the octane boosters and other additives that determine the quality.
Shell V-Power seems to be the preferred brand for many here.
The base stock of gasoline is all the same. It's the octane boosters and other additives that determine the quality.
91 is fine.
93 is best
89 CAN get you into trouble if you have an excellent compression rotor face anywhere in the engine
87 WILL get you into trouble unless your engine is completely shot.
93 is best
89 CAN get you into trouble if you have an excellent compression rotor face anywhere in the engine
87 WILL get you into trouble unless your engine is completely shot.
Additionally, octane boosters are largely sold based on misguiding their audience. "4 points!" means "0.4" octane. "Up to 5 points!" means "somewhere between zero and 0.5 octane".
You would need quite a few bottles to increase the octane a solid +1.0
You would need quite a few bottles to increase the octane a solid +1.0
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From: The Lou
Here QuikTrip has made it a point to actually advertise that they consistently have 93 at all of their stations. I imagine that would spread to other areas eventually.
Post removed. Ranting against the community behavior isn't anywhere close to appropriate for this thread.
I contemplated just moving it to a new thread in the lounge, but opted not to in light of the growing spread of posts ranting against the community elsewhere.
One of them is bound to land in the right subforum?
I contemplated just moving it to a new thread in the lounge, but opted not to in light of the growing spread of posts ranting against the community elsewhere.
One of them is bound to land in the right subforum?
Last edited by RIWWP; May 8, 2013 at 02:50 PM.
starter relay
Ok, so it occurred to me the other day why my clutch has probably never really worked quite right after the install.
Had a shop install ACT prolight and street clutch, only to encounter an oil leak (one shop blamed another blah blah blah never really was able to figure out who was responsible) anyways replaced the clutch disk only as the oil seeped into the bell housing saturating the disk damaging it.
Car was up and running, no engagement problems but I noticed whenever I got on it hard, I could smell clutch. During my rebuild I have been working on when I pulled the pressure plate and flywheel I noticed some dark discoloration on them. Now my thought is that these parts also got damaged due to oil which is now causing my clutch to burn during spirited driving.
Now my questions, can these pieces be resurfaced or just replace them, and if I replace the flywheel do I need a new counter weight, are they made in a set or just a new flywheel?
Thanks
Had a shop install ACT prolight and street clutch, only to encounter an oil leak (one shop blamed another blah blah blah never really was able to figure out who was responsible) anyways replaced the clutch disk only as the oil seeped into the bell housing saturating the disk damaging it.
Car was up and running, no engagement problems but I noticed whenever I got on it hard, I could smell clutch. During my rebuild I have been working on when I pulled the pressure plate and flywheel I noticed some dark discoloration on them. Now my thought is that these parts also got damaged due to oil which is now causing my clutch to burn during spirited driving.
Now my questions, can these pieces be resurfaced or just replace them, and if I replace the flywheel do I need a new counter weight, are they made in a set or just a new flywheel?
Thanks
What do you guys think, I have two options as machining is not one for me.
Either bite the bullet and droop another 600 bucks on replacement parts, or hope that this wear's evenly and drive it hard until it does.
Advice/Opinions please
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From: Florida
i am kinda bringing back my old question. I just found out my 02 sensor is out in my CAT. I don't think i will mess with it, cause it won't really affect my driving or anything. So...Should I leave it, OR, what i would like to do, gut the cat! Lets just say, after the $1700 repair I just made, I don't really have the monies to drop into even a used exhaust system. 
So, I don't mind the sound of the gutted cat, or should I just remove the cat, throw on some pipe, and leave it? I just need some "cheaper" ideas! and YES, I know that looking for "cheap" things on the 8 is not really "practical" or "possible" lol Thanks in advance for the help!
Jay
So, I don't mind the sound of the gutted cat, or should I just remove the cat, throw on some pipe, and leave it? I just need some "cheaper" ideas! and YES, I know that looking for "cheap" things on the 8 is not really "practical" or "possible" lol Thanks in advance for the help!Jay
A couple things.
A faulty O2 sensor and a bad cat are two vastly different things.
If your cat is bad, check out Pico's FS thread... he's selling his stock, practically brand new one for peanuts.
If your O2 is bad you need to first determine which one.
The forward sensor is critical to effective closed loop operation.
The post cat one is more so there to nag you about your cat being bad or is defective itself. In either event you should have a good sensor in the bung. No one has proved or disproved what other trims the rear o2 sensor may play a role in although the general consensus is it's just a stupid emissions thing.
A faulty O2 sensor and a bad cat are two vastly different things.
If your cat is bad, check out Pico's FS thread... he's selling his stock, practically brand new one for peanuts.
If your O2 is bad you need to first determine which one.
The forward sensor is critical to effective closed loop operation.
The post cat one is more so there to nag you about your cat being bad or is defective itself. In either event you should have a good sensor in the bung. No one has proved or disproved what other trims the rear o2 sensor may play a role in although the general consensus is it's just a stupid emissions thing.
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From: Florida
Ok, so I took the 8 to a car shop. they said it is either the cat, or the 02 sensor. I have NO idea if it is the front or rear 02 sensor! So, they were really helpful! :/ I don't want to spend money on a new of either one.
The point of gutting the cat, is to get a good sound from the exhaust. I am NOT looking for performance from an exhaust system, just sound.
The point of gutting the cat, is to get a good sound from the exhaust. I am NOT looking for performance from an exhaust system, just sound.
What happened for you to bring the car to a shop?
Gutting the cat will indeed produce more noise. It's not pleasant though.
Gutting a perfectly good cat is flushing money down the drain. If your cat is fine, at least trade yours for a dead one first.
Gutting the cat will indeed produce more noise. It's not pleasant though.
Gutting a perfectly good cat is flushing money down the drain. If your cat is fine, at least trade yours for a dead one first.
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From: Florida
I was getting my oil changed, and they ran the check engine light while they were at it.
I am trying to find an inexpensive way to get a good exhaust note. I am thinking about cutting off after the cat, and just putting a Flowmaster 10 series with some pipe in. Something like a gutted cat, or flowmasters, may "cheaper" than a whole system upgrade!
If the cat is ok, I wont gut it. I was just thinking about it if it was dead.
I am trying to find an inexpensive way to get a good exhaust note. I am thinking about cutting off after the cat, and just putting a Flowmaster 10 series with some pipe in. Something like a gutted cat, or flowmasters, may "cheaper" than a whole system upgrade!
If the cat is ok, I wont gut it. I was just thinking about it if it was dead.
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From: Florida
I am trying to find an inexpensive way to get a good exhaust note. I am thinking about cutting off after the cat, and just putting a Flowmaster 10 series with some pipe in. Something like a gutted cat, or flowmasters, may "cheaper" than a whole system upgrade!
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Boosted Kiwi
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Gutting the cat will give you a bit more noise - doesn't sound too bad .
The X is silent
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From: New Lebanon, Ohio
I usually don't advocate this type of thing, but in your case I'll make an exception... I've heard of 8'ers buying cat-backs from ebay with "meh" results. You can expect to lose a pony or two, but your parameters are met. (cheap/loud)
