Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
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Boosted Kiwi
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Sorry if I sounded like I was flaming Jaybird, but I thought ruining a good cat that might be needed for emissions testing is not wise.
I did not mean to sound insulting.
Poor choice of words on my part.
I did not mean to sound insulting.
Poor choice of words on my part.
Thread Starter
Boosted Kiwi
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
What I was trying to say is that a used cat here has zero value - no one wants them . So you saying it's nuts to destroy one because of its value doesn't apply ..... here in NZ anyway.
Dude, you are fine! lol! I know what you mean! Here in Florida, we dont have to pass any emissions tests! :D I would only gut my cat if it was blown, if it was fine, then I would leave it. I am just looking for a "cheap" way to get a good loud exhaust note. I am taking the 8 to a local muffler shop and have them see under there to see if I can get like some Flowmaster 10's after the cat!
Dude, you are fine! lol! I know what you mean! Here in Florida, we dont have to pass any emissions tests! :D I would only gut my cat if it was blown, if it was fine, then I would leave it. I am just looking for a "cheap" way to get a good loud exhaust note. I am taking the 8 to a local muffler shop and have them see under there to see if I can get like some Flowmaster 10's after the cat!
I thought you were going to gut your existing cat without knowing if it was bad or not just for the sound.
I'm catless, but mine broke up.
I have the BHR midpipe & stock exhaust. Nice deeper tone but not loud.
If you don't want your cat, you could possibly sell it for enough to get a new midpipe.
I hope I'm not violating any rules by saying that.
Hey guys I was looking at replacing my Ignition coils, Plugs and wires as part of regular maintenance. I know ebay products are sometimes iffy but NGK is a good brand, check out this link and tell me if these look good or am I "cheaping out" ? These say Geniuine OE and also im too cheap to do the BHR upgrade right now.
OE Mazda RX8 Mazda Ignition Coil Coils NGK Spark Plug NGK Wire Set Euro | eBay
OE Mazda RX8 Mazda Ignition Coil Coils NGK Spark Plug NGK Wire Set Euro | eBay
Highly debatable and the difference in speeds are minute, the difference in reliability is what directs owners to the S2. The variety and availability to to extensively mod an S1 is what makes owners buy that one instead.
Exhaust Manifold Air Injection Cover Plate
RX8: Exhaust - Headers: Exhaust Manifold Air Injection Cover Plate -
Simply stupid question: Why?
RX8: Exhaust - Headers: Exhaust Manifold Air Injection Cover Plate -
Simply stupid question: Why?
To cover up the hole on the exhaust manifold once you get rid of the air pump since it is usless for those of us who are catless. The air pump is also is known to fail and make a whining noise on start up so thats another reason why some people get rid of it.
This is more of a does it matter question.
Tapping a water temp sensor, their are adapters to tap the upper radiator hose or the heater core hose.
Which location is better, its a shame to cut a brand new Mizu hose but it seems that location would be more critical for temp readings.
Thoughts?
Tapping a water temp sensor, their are adapters to tap the upper radiator hose or the heater core hose.
Which location is better, its a shame to cut a brand new Mizu hose but it seems that location would be more critical for temp readings.
Thoughts?
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From: Buddhist Monastery, High Himalaya Mtns. of Tibet
The heater core hose only has coolant moving through it when you request heat in the car. This coolant would be stagnant and not likely to indicate true temperature. The upper radiator hose will show true coolant temps only when the thermostat opens and sends operating temperature coolant back to the radiator. When the thermostat is closed, you won't get an accurate reading.
Im not trying to tap into aluminum, Im saying which hose can I cut and put the adapter on to give better readings. At the same point in time most people grab the top radiator hose, as it will still give you your peak water temp when you are running hard. Correct?
The heater core hose only has coolant moving through it when you request heat in the car. This coolant would be stagnant and not likely to indicate true temperature. The upper radiator hose will show true coolant temps only when the thermostat opens and sends operating temperature coolant back to the radiator. When the thermostat is closed, you won't get an accurate reading.
Are you sure about this? I thought everyone tapped the heater hose. And if coolant can't pass when the heater is off, how do you explain the "running water sound" inside the dash when you are low on coolant?
I'm going dig into this...
I can't find anything in the factory manuals which indicate a valve of some sort to restrict coolant flow through the heater core. It appears that the core is just directly hooked up to the heater core coolant lines, one in, one out. The air mix door is what controls if there is any airflow across the heater core to pull heat from it.
I'm pretty sure I've heard coolant rushing through the core on startup with the heat not on as well.
I'm pretty sure I've heard coolant rushing through the core on startup with the heat not on as well.
That and the fact that the heater core is feed directly from the rear iron, better place to tap might be the TB lines (also flowing from the rear iron) as it effectively provides a coolant bypass as well.
Last edited by Carbon8; May 15, 2013 at 08:19 AM.



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