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Old May 11, 2013 | 05:26 PM
  #2101  
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Originally Posted by BigCajun
IMHO gutting a perfectly good $1400 cat for a better exhaust note is INSANE!!!
Jus sayin.
Don't know about the US but here in NZ you can't give away a used cat off an RX8 .......
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Old May 11, 2013 | 05:30 PM
  #2102  
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Originally Posted by Brettus
Don't know about the US but here in NZ you can't give away a used cat off an RX8 .......
Hey Brettus,
I don't understand your message.
Could you be more specific in what you mean?
Thanks.
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Old May 11, 2013 | 05:36 PM
  #2103  
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I may go with an ebay cat back, I am not doing any racing, who is with N/A 8's?!?!?
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Old May 11, 2013 | 05:43 PM
  #2104  
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Sorry if I sounded like I was flaming Jaybird, but I thought ruining a good cat that might be needed for emissions testing is not wise.
I did not mean to sound insulting.
Poor choice of words on my part.
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Old May 11, 2013 | 05:48 PM
  #2105  
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From: Y-cat-o NZ
Originally Posted by BigCajun
Hey Brettus,
I don't understand your message.
Could you be more specific in what you mean?
Thanks.
What I was trying to say is that a used cat here has zero value - no one wants them . So you saying it's nuts to destroy one because of its value doesn't apply ..... here in NZ anyway.
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Old May 11, 2013 | 05:50 PM
  #2106  
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Dude, you are fine! lol! I know what you mean! Here in Florida, we dont have to pass any emissions tests! :D I would only gut my cat if it was blown, if it was fine, then I would leave it. I am just looking for a "cheap" way to get a good loud exhaust note. I am taking the 8 to a local muffler shop and have them see under there to see if I can get like some Flowmaster 10's after the cat!
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Old May 11, 2013 | 05:59 PM
  #2107  
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Originally Posted by JayBird513
Dude, you are fine! lol! I know what you mean! Here in Florida, we dont have to pass any emissions tests! :D I would only gut my cat if it was blown, if it was fine, then I would leave it. I am just looking for a "cheap" way to get a good loud exhaust note. I am taking the 8 to a local muffler shop and have them see under there to see if I can get like some Flowmaster 10's after the cat!
Ok bro.
I thought you were going to gut your existing cat without knowing if it was bad or not just for the sound.
I'm catless, but mine broke up.
I have the BHR midpipe & stock exhaust. Nice deeper tone but not loud.
If you don't want your cat, you could possibly sell it for enough to get a new midpipe.
I hope I'm not violating any rules by saying that.
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Old May 11, 2013 | 06:05 PM
  #2108  
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Yea, we'll see what i do lol

Different question.

I want to lower my 8, I don't want coilovers, so what about some Tein lowering springs? how hard is it to do by yourself, or can I?
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Old May 12, 2013 | 01:25 AM
  #2109  
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Cel

whats a CEL?
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Old May 12, 2013 | 01:31 AM
  #2110  
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Check Engine Light
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Old May 12, 2013 | 02:11 AM
  #2111  
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Originally Posted by JayBird513
I am not doing any racing, who is with N/A 8's?!?!?
90% of all 8's raced are N/A
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Old May 12, 2013 | 01:15 PM
  #2112  
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are the series II cars faster or have more power than series I?
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Old May 12, 2013 | 01:54 PM
  #2113  
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Hey guys I was looking at replacing my Ignition coils, Plugs and wires as part of regular maintenance. I know ebay products are sometimes iffy but NGK is a good brand, check out this link and tell me if these look good or am I "cheaping out" ? These say Geniuine OE and also im too cheap to do the BHR upgrade right now.

OE Mazda RX8 Mazda Ignition Coil Coils NGK Spark Plug NGK Wire Set Euro | eBay
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Old May 12, 2013 | 07:45 PM
  #2114  
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Originally Posted by GoodKiLo
are the series II cars faster or have more power than series I?
Highly debatable and the difference in speeds are minute, the difference in reliability is what directs owners to the S2. The variety and availability to to extensively mod an S1 is what makes owners buy that one instead.
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Old May 12, 2013 | 08:08 PM
  #2115  
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Exhaust Manifold Air Injection Cover Plate

RX8: Exhaust - Headers: Exhaust Manifold Air Injection Cover Plate -

Simply stupid question: Why?
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Old May 12, 2013 | 11:29 PM
  #2116  
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To cover up the hole on the exhaust manifold once you get rid of the air pump since it is usless for those of us who are catless. The air pump is also is known to fail and make a whining noise on start up so thats another reason why some people get rid of it.
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Old May 13, 2013 | 02:11 PM
  #2117  
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I would be care full of any thing you buy on e-bay?. Not saying e-bay is bad but you are risking a potential problem vs buying from a reputable local dealer. What's your time worth?..
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Old May 14, 2013 | 09:53 PM
  #2118  
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This is more of a does it matter question.

Tapping a water temp sensor, their are adapters to tap the upper radiator hose or the heater core hose.

Which location is better, its a shame to cut a brand new Mizu hose but it seems that location would be more critical for temp readings.

Thoughts?
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Old May 15, 2013 | 12:21 AM
  #2119  
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The heater core hose only has coolant moving through it when you request heat in the car. This coolant would be stagnant and not likely to indicate true temperature. The upper radiator hose will show true coolant temps only when the thermostat opens and sends operating temperature coolant back to the radiator. When the thermostat is closed, you won't get an accurate reading.
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Old May 15, 2013 | 12:28 AM
  #2120  
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where should one tap to ensure accurate readings at all times?
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Old May 15, 2013 | 12:57 AM
  #2121  
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Just below the thermostat, but I dont think the material is thick enough, maybe have a piece of ally welded to the lower housing so you have enough material to tap into.
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Old May 15, 2013 | 04:31 AM
  #2122  
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Im not trying to tap into aluminum, Im saying which hose can I cut and put the adapter on to give better readings. At the same point in time most people grab the top radiator hose, as it will still give you your peak water temp when you are running hard. Correct?
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Old May 15, 2013 | 07:58 AM
  #2123  
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Originally Posted by alnielsen
The heater core hose only has coolant moving through it when you request heat in the car. This coolant would be stagnant and not likely to indicate true temperature. The upper radiator hose will show true coolant temps only when the thermostat opens and sends operating temperature coolant back to the radiator. When the thermostat is closed, you won't get an accurate reading.

Are you sure about this? I thought everyone tapped the heater hose. And if coolant can't pass when the heater is off, how do you explain the "running water sound" inside the dash when you are low on coolant?

I'm going dig into this...
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Old May 15, 2013 | 08:14 AM
  #2124  
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I can't find anything in the factory manuals which indicate a valve of some sort to restrict coolant flow through the heater core. It appears that the core is just directly hooked up to the heater core coolant lines, one in, one out. The air mix door is what controls if there is any airflow across the heater core to pull heat from it.

I'm pretty sure I've heard coolant rushing through the core on startup with the heat not on as well.
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Old May 15, 2013 | 08:16 AM
  #2125  
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That and the fact that the heater core is feed directly from the rear iron, better place to tap might be the TB lines (also flowing from the rear iron) as it effectively provides a coolant bypass as well.

Last edited by Carbon8; May 15, 2013 at 08:19 AM.
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