I'm really looking for opinions rather than an answer, even if you just lower a car on lowering springs, what do you guys think about getting an alignment afterwards?

I'm getting it aligned regardless, but a lot of people don't.. Is it really necessary?

 

Yes ...

When you change the ride height the alignment changes......the toe will be the biggest problem. It will eat your tires if it is out too much

 

now even i think this is a dumb question but man tell me im not crazy.

When I do a warm start (or even a cold start sometimes), if I start my car with the shifter in 1st gear, and my foot down on the clutch, it takes longer than if I put my shifter into neutral and start it. Is that like, common for this car? If I do a warm start in 1st gear holy crap its bad. But in neutral, not so much. I thought these things were completely unrelated cause, if your foots down on the clutch, it doesnt matter whether your in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, or 69th, its basically neutral.

At least, thats how it was in my previous accord. Is the rx8 different in this sense or something?

 

Nope there might be something to this.
There are different idle tables for clutch in clutch out.

 

Yea the guy that was aligning my car called before he dug into it because my camber in the rear was at about -3 after I lowered it so he wasn't sure if I had it that way for racing or if he should straighten it out lol

I assume most people always would, but some people just don't think about stuff like that.

 

Can someone point me in the right direction? Trying to find out how to figure out what size bypass valve I need and am having trouble finding info. Not asking what one to get, just how to figure out what the right size is.

 

Bypass valve for what?....BOV or wastegate?..or for a SC system?

 

Bypass/blow off same diff, one is vta the other recircs it. Nevermind, I found it. It's for my turbo.

 

I have been asked to record:

"LTFT = Long Term Fuel Trim
STFT = Short Term Fuel Trim
AFR = Air to Fuel Ratio (also referred to as other terms on other scales)
IAT = Intake Air Temperature"

....in various settings.

I have got the software running fine but cannot seem to record data. Can someone talk me through pls.

So much going on in life (good and not good) that this is low priority but desperate to get engine sorted.

If anyone is familiar with this software and can talk me through I would be most grateful.

TIA
Steve

 

Dumb Question:

Im going to eventually buy winter and summer tires for the upcoming seasons but heres my question. When I go on tirerack and enter my vehicle specifications; year, make, model, etc. It gives me only a few choices for winter tires. One of them being the Blizzaks which I might buy. However I remember people saying they bought Toyo winter tires from tirerack as well. Are you limited to ONLY what it gives you for your specific vehicle? How do you know what tires you can buy and actually just plop on a rim and put on your car? (Im going to have tirerack put them on the rims so its easier for me). I wanted to try out the Toyos but it does not show that as fitting my car.

 

When you lower the height you will increase your negative camber. Likely your rear camber was around -2.5 before the drop. Toe changes a lot as well. What did you end up with for alignment settings?

 

You'll probably have more options (and less spending) if you go with a set of separate 17" winter wheels, than looking for 18" snow tires.

 

Camber set to -1.5 I believe, I don't remember off the top of my head but I wrote it on my reciept when I picked up my car.

 

I need a real answer from few ppl I was thinking about putting the 13b twin turbo from 93 rx7 into my 07 rx8 cause my rotor housing is warped cause car was stolen and taking for joy ride but I was wondering if I could put the motor in with the stock tranny and if so what would it take to wire it in?

 

Wow, that question is pretty big for the dumb question thread, and the answer is way to long.

I've not actually done one, but others have, my limited experience:
1) Yes it will bolt up to the transmission
2) You'll need to wire up a standalone ECU

Read this thread and or contact the member
https://www.rx8club.com/rotary-swaps-217/13bre-swap-159291/

 

How big is our roof?

 

Next Dumb Question:

Let me present a situation to you.

Your cruising and come to a light, and decide on takeoff your gonna roll for a bit and then punch it. You redline to 9k, push in the clutch, and switch to 2nd and your on your way to your cruising speed.

Next light comes, you decide, hmm, I really didnt get to hear the engine last time because my music was up a bit, i wanna hear her pur. You get going, you redline the beast to 9.5-9.7k and push in your clutch, the power completely drops off. Is there a reason for this? It feels so different when I shift after my needle being more into the redline. I feel like the power just completely drops off and my car slows down. Its really strange. Is this common, or could this be something wrong with the car?

(Note: my car was sufficiently warmed up before doing this)

 

dont push it past 9 k ... the engines are not balances enough to do that .... your rotors start vibrating all over the place, digging into your housings and side irons .... BAD

 

.Jamesf The car also has a fail safe where the fuel cuts out at 10k. for what stinksauce said. Good luck keep her below 9k man.

 

.Jamesf The car also has a fail safe where the fuel cuts out at 10k. for what stinksauce said. Good luck keep her below 9k man.

 

I thought one of the benefits of the Cobb AP was that you could adjust your redline higher?

 

I'm considering purchasing a 2004 rx8 such as this one: http://m.autotrader.com/(S(pa2iozvyw...%26model%3dRX8

Are the 2004s still a good car? What would be a good price for this car?

Thanks

 

I've read that the Renesis can actually safely rev much higher than the redline (like 12-13k). But the redline is where it's at because the transmission can't take the 9k+ revs. This is also why the AT version has a lower redline than the MT.

 

^^^ There's no point. Power drops off before 9k anyway.

 

Both of these are actually correct, but don't tell the "experts" of the forum.

Properly balanced, the Renesis can easily handle significantly higher revs.
Improperly balanced, the rotor tips will start contacting the housings.

However, unless you got your engine rebuilt and have balance specs on the e-shaft / rotors, you simply don't know which bucket you are in, and to what degree.

Anyone that insists that it "will" happen isn't accepting the reality that there can be differences in balance from one engine to the next, and for the better balanced end of that scale it actually won't.

It's still not really a good idea, due to heat, transmission, etc..., but without tearing down your engine and balancing it, you just don't know. So it's safer to not exceed it.