Carbon8, the flywheel can be machined and it should be neutrally balanced, the counterweight can be used as is, I have machined a pressure plate but it takes a lot of setting up and I had to be very gentle with the downward pressure of the machine. The machine I use has stones for grinding steel and cutters for aluminum.The stones have to dressed at 90 degrees so they don't hit the clutch cover.Or you can disassemble the pressure plate and machine it, but I found it difficult to secure to the bed of the machine, measure the distance/gap from the face of the clutch cover and the face of the pressure plate before you take it apart so you can set it up correctly.

 

Sounds like a good time

 

so if it is tune dependent and i have a stock oem tune, then what does this say about my engine?

what can we determine? this is interesting to me

 

Hi, I'm trying to figure out why CATs with 3" openings are being recommended to be used and welded in stock midpipe if we have 2.5" exhaust.

 

Probably asked 100 times so a simple yes or no will be good enough, If you want to explain why would be apperciated. Do i need to get a oil change after seafoaming the RX8? Ive seen many people say yes i seen many people say no. The seafoam website says no, I just wanted a opinion from rx8 owners. Thank you

After using Sea Foam, do I need to change my oil? | Sea Foam Sales Company

 

Yes, it is highly recommended. Water/fuel contamination does occur.

 

it honestly depends on the condition of your engine. There is a chance that seafoam will slip past the seals and contaminate your oil. It is moreso recommended as a "if you are going through the trouble of cleaning the engine, why not go all the way". What is recommended though, is to change spark plugs after seafoam as they could get fouled easy.

edit: RIWWP beat me to it.

 

Thank you guys. Ill be sure to do it before my next oil change

 

Another question. Ive been experinceing a rough idle, almost like the car wants to die out. I was sitting at a light last week and the car died due to the rough idle. It turned right back on but still idles rough. Does anyone know what this problem might be? This is one of the reasons i asked the seafoam question before i was hoping it would help

 

Engine vibrations can be felt through the shift **** while my car is at idle. Is this normal, or is this a good indication of the motor mounts being in need of replacement (car is an 09 with only 30k miles on it)? Will not replacing the motor mounts soon lead to significant levels of side seal chatter and potentially side seal failure?

 

vibration through shift **** is normal.
all cars do it.
i had a 350z that did it so bad ud think somethings broken.
But its normal.

 

I would check on the health of your ignition system to start.

 

not all cars, only cars with the shifter connected straight to the transmission without any linkage.

 

Rough idle is frequently related to an air sensor issue. Hook up a code check meter and see if it picks up the problem.

 

Maybe on a piston, rough idle could be causes by almost anything concerning our cars. Start with the basics and cheapest fixes and go from there.

 

Could also check to see if the MAF sensor is in need of a cleaning as that could also cause rough idle issues, but as was previously stated there are a lot of potential causes.

 

Minor vibrations can be felt through the gear shift. Bad o2 sensor or maf sensor could be affecting the vibration of the engine also. If you get a new front o2 sensor, stick with Mazda brand. Can be bought from the Arlington Mazda parts website for $274. Cheapest they come. Maf sensor can be found at autozone, as many car manufactures use the same maf sensor to include Toyota. Ask me how I know all this. 177,000 miles and growing strong, not original engine of course.

 

Good morning everyone.
Best wishes to those dealing with the flooding in the Midwest.
I have a dumb question.

When is one no longer considered a Noob?

 

When their contributions become intelligent enough that the vox populi seems satisfied enough to stop calling you one and/or you complete a elaborate build thread that includes work done by yourself.

Unfortunately for that matter where all considered a mass of noob's trying to contribute and educate each other as a mass of both wrong and right information thusly the ever endearing title "noob" shall really never be lifted upon any of us *sigh*

To noob's without whom this thread and many other invaluable threads would not exist

 

Perfect question for this forum. Where is the best place to use a floor jack (hydraulic) on the 8 ? Also, where is the best place to put jack stands (front and rear).

 

I recently searched this quite a bit before I installed my midpipe.
I tried jacking with a floor jack, got the front up OK.
Used the crossmember(?), you should know it when you look under there, but I couldn't get the jack under the rear.
I have the front lip, so no way I could do rear first. Scissor jack is major pain.

I ended up buying a set of Rhino ramps for the front, and placing a couple of 2x6 board ramps I had for my pickup bed, drove onto ramps and boards giving me enough clearance to get jack under rear differential.

I then jacked up both ends as high as my jack would go (I'm kinda big) and put my jackstands under the scissor jack locations. There is some discussion about placement, but I thought logic dictated that's where jack goes, so that's where stands go.
Good luck!

 

This really is more of a google search, but there are multiple threads a search here could have shown you.

https://www.rx8club.com/australia-ne...c-jack-162350/
Mazda RX8 jacking points

Words of wisdom, don't be so lazy. You wont like the result.

 

that happened to me once. check and clean the MAF, there's a small sensor behind the bottom pulley clean that. And change ore check plugs wires and coils. that should do you the job,

 

question of noobness

Many of us (such as myself) start as complete noobs with little to no technical knowledge of the platform.

Over time we gain an understanding and appreciation of it and our questions become informed ones, often times already asked by those before us rising through the noob scale.

At this state we're mostly informed but annoy those that have been here longer because we want to discuss things that have been hashed, and rehashed, numerous times before us.

At some point we gain sufficient knowledge (likely by reading and rereading the same questions over time) and start to answer some of the questions on our own.

This is likely the point you can stop considering yourself a noob. You'll know for certain if you can help out a fellow member, or contribute with a DIY or similar, and not get flamed for doing something stupid or providing bad/harmful data.

 

Yes, searches are invaluable and all members should do them when having a question.

However, I always appreciated the members who, after doing said searches and having success at resolving the issues at hand, offered hands-on solutions, and did the despised "Spoonfeeding the Noob" instead of directing sometimes time consuming, confusing, and conflicting searches.

Asking for help and expecting a helpful answer is not lazy, it's efficient.

Those willing to learn will continue to search even after their problems are fixed in the hopes of fully understanding the issues, and staying current on preventive measures.
Those who don't, well that's when Darwin comes into play.