Red Devil

Santa?

tajabaho1

Legal issues? I thought Microtechs were sold in the US anyways no?

rofl mao cakes wtf omg lol

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

where's the bbq ?

quazmosis

iTrader: (2)

For the people who have this installed, I've read its easy, but what tools did you all need? Need anything special? Can I use this as an excuse to buy new tools?

maxxdamigz

iTrader: (1)

Nothing says you can't use a tig welder to install coils. You can use it to hold the directions down while you install the parts just in case your driveway/garage is windy.

quazmosis

iTrader: (2)

^ That's not a bad idea.

DOMINION

Sweet looks like I found my next mod

quazmosis

iTrader: (2)

I did end up buying some new tools. A new set of snips, and a set of metric wrenches. I highly recommend getting the rachet wrenches though.

quazmosis

iTrader: (2)

After instal does the ECU have to relearn anything? I dont have a CEL or anything, but it almost seems like a lost some power. I could be wrong and its probably all in my head, because it runs alot smoother and quieter. Does it take a couple drive sessions to adjust anything?

quazmosis

iTrader: (2)

So what do I have to do to fix this if anything? Is there a fix? I dont have a CEL or anything. Or doesnt that matter?

quazmosis

iTrader: (2)

Geez I thought I did. I thought all this dwell talk/tuning/ loss of power was FI aps. Should I not be driving it until I get the AP? In all the threads that talked about this, Scott was allways there reassuring everyone for NA aps theres no tuning nessasary. hmmmm

mysql

You're relying on the fact that your car doesn't generate enough power to encounter the coil issues. Not all cars are the same. And most people don't bother testing out to verify that they're making more/less power with a mod. For all we know, your butt dyno is not calibrated and you have no issues at all. On the other hand, you might actually be losing power. It's difficult to tell unless you uninstall everything, go back to stock, get on the dyno, do some pulls, reinstall, and do some more pulls. Even then it might not be a valid comparison because if the coils produce a hotter spark, your AFR's might be leaner causing a temporary gain in power till the ECU readjusts a week later.

quazmosis

iTrader: (2)

This may just be the end of Mazsport and myself together in a happy business relationship. And a perfect Oppurtunity to get the Cobb AP. Its allways been on the wishlist. It very well could just be in my head. I've only drove it for maybe 20 miles. If that.

DOMINION

No need to go through all that B.S. If he felt like he lost power he lost power.
Back when I had a AT 8 and my Engine was going I can tell. It was just not the same. It was hessitent when floored and could nolonger pull out of corners. Then one day on the freeway coming back from my Mazda Dealer going 70mph I can feel it losing power.
When I first got my MT it was bone stock. The kid that had it before me had a small system in it. He took some equipment and left some stuff dissconnected. After I installed 2 12"s and a second amp I can tell I lost some power on the low end getting out of 1st gear rpm's from a dead stop.
Maybe he just installed something wrong. Retrace your steps. Pop the hood and double check everything.

mysql

yes, check to make sure the install was done properly. But it really is true that butt dynos are awful and unreliable. You can gain or lose 20 whp and not notice it (depending on where the loss is in the powerband)

neXib

Yeah, my car feels a lot faster with my new exhaust, probably didn't do **** in reality though Sound can fool you too. Sound and butt don't do that well all in all.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

if you disconnected the battery as you should have. the ecu will have to relearn the fuel trims.

also miss wiring the coils is bad. plug wires and coil wires.

beers

DOMINION

Swoope is right. Check your wiring and disconnect your battery.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

it is easy to wire the coils wrong and yes the car will run--seemingly ok. good advice to double check everything.
i also advise all to get rid of the oem stock coil ground(it is unbelieveable) and make one themselves that is much better and yes--it still matters for this setup.
i am fi and i have never had a problem with this product--mine was plug and play. i did get confused on getting the correct connector to the correct plug and i had to triple check everything. my brain is old and the memory needs defraging
olddragger

mysql

When I first installed this, I wired the harness backwards to the coils. The car wouldn't even start. I think only the leading is sparked during startup, so the wrong set of coils were igniting and nothing happened. Lucky it didn't flood.

Bastage

iTrader: (1)

Wouldn't that give constant power to the wrong pin and potentially fry the coils?

Regardless, sounds pretty scary.

mysql

Why would it fry the coils? It just means the fuel wasn't being ignited. I tried starting it twice, the engine turned over but didn't start. I was on the phone with Scott and he said to connect it the other way around.

Bastage

iTrader: (1)

I must have misunderstood the "I wired the harness backwards" comment to mean something else. What I thought you were saying was that you actually WIRED stuff backwards, so that you were giving constant power to the wrong connector pins in the coil, etc.

mysql

ha. Okay. I'll work on my vocabulary.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Hooking it up wrong can be a big problem, especially if it starts. If you rev it up or drive it like that it is asking to blow up the engine. The trailing will be firing way before the leading...esp NA and that's a sure fire way to blow up an engine.

If you hook it up without the ground to the igniter being connected you will blow up the igniter and possibly harm the coils as well.

This is an easy install to do WRONG...you need to be extra careful...and think about each step. Sometimes the directions are a bit cryptic so look carefully at the pictures and read the dialog......