Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#7776
never give up
Hi all, if anyone happens to know the weight and specs of the oem mazda flywheel for the 5 speed transmission (eu, uk & jdm markets), it would be helpful. Thank you in advance.
#7777
ECU/ECM Location and Compatibility
I tried google but can't find a reliable or really any answer for where the location of the ECM / ECU is, A rotary specialist speculated that my ECU might be going bad with the fact I have over 14 codes going on and I have the ability to get one out of 2004 Mazda RX8 I have a 2006 Mazda RX8 Shinka Edition, A) Can I directly swap the ECU? will I need to reprogram the immobilizer? B) Can someone give me a video or good pictures / description of the location of the ECM
#7778
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
ECU is on Front left looking at windscreen (passenger side in US) under the plastic cover.
What are the codes... some of them can go together and it doesn't mean the ECU is defective
Replacing the ECU is complex. It must be identical to the original... there are quite a few different ones over the production years...
And it must be programmed with "as built" data so that it will work.
What are the codes... some of them can go together and it doesn't mean the ECU is defective
Replacing the ECU is complex. It must be identical to the original... there are quite a few different ones over the production years...
And it must be programmed with "as built" data so that it will work.
#7779
These are the codes I have. I'm running without a cat, allegedly I was tuned by TREX Performance before they shut down when they did my rebuild to avoid anything regarding that. I also have an air pump removal and delete.
#7780
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Looks like a vac leak and an evap leak for sure. Evap could be as easy as the gas cap being defective. Do you have an aftermarket intake? Common vac leak is the nipple for the VFAD duct is open at the manifold.
Other codes for the air pump and CAT delete.... Sensor 2 is post CAT O2 sensor and likely not there
Check the evap solenoid and piping where it enters the manifold. If it is leaking it can explain both codes.
Reset the ECU and see which codes come back...
None of those codes suggest an ecu issue
Other codes for the air pump and CAT delete.... Sensor 2 is post CAT O2 sensor and likely not there
Check the evap solenoid and piping where it enters the manifold. If it is leaking it can explain both codes.
Reset the ECU and see which codes come back...
None of those codes suggest an ecu issue
#7781
No aftermarket intake, it's stock. where is the nipple on the VFAD duct? is it the one here: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...cation-219112/ ???
If there's a leak there, is it going to be sucking or blowing there should i feel? I'm sorry I'm not sure the term of which positive or negative pressure means (negative means drawing in or positive means blowing i guess?) If it's leaking there do i need to replace the entire hose? Is the only option a salvage yard or do they have replacement hoses i can source somewhere? Is it best to just remove the VFAD system ? I don't really want to invest a cold air intake on the car yet unless I really should.
The three solenoids that are almost identical on the back of the UIM all were replaced with brand new ones when the engine was rebuilt . Where is the EVAP Solenoid? Or is that one of them?
If there's a leak there, is it going to be sucking or blowing there should i feel? I'm sorry I'm not sure the term of which positive or negative pressure means (negative means drawing in or positive means blowing i guess?) If it's leaking there do i need to replace the entire hose? Is the only option a salvage yard or do they have replacement hoses i can source somewhere? Is it best to just remove the VFAD system ? I don't really want to invest a cold air intake on the car yet unless I really should.
The three solenoids that are almost identical on the back of the UIM all were replaced with brand new ones when the engine was rebuilt . Where is the EVAP Solenoid? Or is that one of them?
#7783
Project Seca
iTrader: (10)
Dragonlord, Please tag me in your response so I dont forget to come back and check.... did you install LED brake light bulbs or any LED bulbs anywhere?
1) Replace your gas cap
2) Replace your rear O2 Sensor
3) AIR injection pump code comes up because of it being removed and the system will check for that. I dont remember which plug you can disconnect at the air injection pump and it not set off a code, I want to say its the larger plug closer to the harness on the passenger side. Its square and has a larger diameter red and black wire going into it. Some models it may still throw a code, but my luck has been when disconnected at that connector it does not throw a AIR pump code.
4) Check your PCV, wouldn't hurt to remove it to clean it or even replace it.
5) Check your ABS fuse
6) Disconnect the OBD2 reader and drive a bit before reconnecting it, sometimes the PCM and these readers dont like one another and the communication gets funky and throws a bunch of body module codes when they get connected. Some cheap OBD2 readers also just dont seem to like the CANBUS communication with our cars and send things a little haywire. Check the codes with a different tool after you clear the codes and drive just a little bit
1) Replace your gas cap
2) Replace your rear O2 Sensor
3) AIR injection pump code comes up because of it being removed and the system will check for that. I dont remember which plug you can disconnect at the air injection pump and it not set off a code, I want to say its the larger plug closer to the harness on the passenger side. Its square and has a larger diameter red and black wire going into it. Some models it may still throw a code, but my luck has been when disconnected at that connector it does not throw a AIR pump code.
4) Check your PCV, wouldn't hurt to remove it to clean it or even replace it.
5) Check your ABS fuse
6) Disconnect the OBD2 reader and drive a bit before reconnecting it, sometimes the PCM and these readers dont like one another and the communication gets funky and throws a bunch of body module codes when they get connected. Some cheap OBD2 readers also just dont seem to like the CANBUS communication with our cars and send things a little haywire. Check the codes with a different tool after you clear the codes and drive just a little bit
#7784
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
No aftermarket intake, it's stock. where is the nipple on the VFAD duct? is it the one here: https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...cation-219112/ ???
If there's a leak there, is it going to be sucking or blowing there should i feel? I'm sorry I'm not sure the term of which positive or negative pressure means (negative means drawing in or positive means blowing i guess?) If it's leaking there do i need to replace the entire hose? Is the only option a salvage yard or do they have replacement hoses i can source somewhere? Is it best to just remove the VFAD system ? I don't really want to invest a cold air intake on the car yet unless I really should.
The three solenoids that are almost identical on the back of the UIM all were replaced with brand new ones when the engine was rebuilt . Where is the EVAP Solenoid? Or is that one of them?
If there's a leak there, is it going to be sucking or blowing there should i feel? I'm sorry I'm not sure the term of which positive or negative pressure means (negative means drawing in or positive means blowing i guess?) If it's leaking there do i need to replace the entire hose? Is the only option a salvage yard or do they have replacement hoses i can source somewhere? Is it best to just remove the VFAD system ? I don't really want to invest a cold air intake on the car yet unless I really should.
The three solenoids that are almost identical on the back of the UIM all were replaced with brand new ones when the engine was rebuilt . Where is the EVAP Solenoid? Or is that one of them?
A vac leak will suck... and it will be after the throttle body.
Other common areas are around the injectors or intake manifold seals or one of the vac lines that were likely nessed with when they installed the motor
Most common evap leak is the gas cap like I said... so its worth putting on a new one
#7785
Power Steering not working
Dumb question... my power steering doesn't work. Didn't work when I picked the car up. Is there something I can check or is it just the power steering pump? No lights or error codes, just really hard to turn.
Thanks,
Hyde
Thanks,
Hyde
#7786
“Whale-oil-beef-hooked”
This will give you quite a list of threads related to your very common problem. The electrical connections get corroded. Sometimes the solution is to remove the connectors and solder the wires together. Read a few of the threads to find what best matches your issue and how you want to solve it.
The following users liked this post:
Ricky SE3P (03-08-2023)
#7787
type this in the search function using the Google search option: Www site Rx8club power steering
This will give you quite a list of threads related to your very common problem. The electrical connections get corroded. Sometimes the solution is to remove the connectors and solder the wires together. Read a few of the threads to find what best matches your issue and how you want to solve it.
This will give you quite a list of threads related to your very common problem. The electrical connections get corroded. Sometimes the solution is to remove the connectors and solder the wires together. Read a few of the threads to find what best matches your issue and how you want to solve it.
The following users liked this post:
MincVinyl (04-20-2023)
#7790
I have a parked Rx8 for 6 years now and it needs some work. I had to move and just left it there, and want to get it running again. Thinking to do it as a DIY project.
I thought this could be a thread in S2 DIY but can't create one, so posting here.
The car is currently covered in a lot of dust from the nearby dryer and I have not tried starting it yet.
Im making a list of repairs.
So 1, I need to know how to clean it without scratching the paint.
2, both front door handles are broken. I've been looking for the parts, (FE87-58-410E-59 and FE87-59-410E-59) but I'm not sure, hoping to get help. Also need help confirming the color. I believe its diamond gray. Are they easy to replace?
3, both front window motors are broken, so they need to be replaced. Is this something I can do or better to send to a workshop? I already bought the motors some 1-2 years ago. Parts No: G22C-58-58XF and GJ6A-59-58X
4, the passenger airbag cover is all cracked, is that something I can replace too? what's the part?
5, about fluids and motor, what to inspect, clean and pay attention just so when I start it, it wont get damaged. Any tips.
6, best way to clean seats and interior. Suggestions welcomed.
Here are some pictures. I don't know if the parts I have identified will cover all needs. Will appreciate any help.
I thought this could be a thread in S2 DIY but can't create one, so posting here.
The car is currently covered in a lot of dust from the nearby dryer and I have not tried starting it yet.
Im making a list of repairs.
So 1, I need to know how to clean it without scratching the paint.
2, both front door handles are broken. I've been looking for the parts, (FE87-58-410E-59 and FE87-59-410E-59) but I'm not sure, hoping to get help. Also need help confirming the color. I believe its diamond gray. Are they easy to replace?
3, both front window motors are broken, so they need to be replaced. Is this something I can do or better to send to a workshop? I already bought the motors some 1-2 years ago. Parts No: G22C-58-58XF and GJ6A-59-58X
4, the passenger airbag cover is all cracked, is that something I can replace too? what's the part?
5, about fluids and motor, what to inspect, clean and pay attention just so when I start it, it wont get damaged. Any tips.
6, best way to clean seats and interior. Suggestions welcomed.
Here are some pictures. I don't know if the parts I have identified will cover all needs. Will appreciate any help.
#7791
40th anniversary Edition
Yes there is a part from Mazda to replace the airbag cover . I dont know the part number, but the part is about $500 from Mazda, that I know . Check with a dealer for the part number and how to order it. This is a commonly cracked part over time, with ALL RX8.
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system and any original cat are really suspect and failure prone. They represents the biggest threat to your engine. Replace.
Cheers
__________________
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system and any original cat are really suspect and failure prone. They represents the biggest threat to your engine. Replace.
Cheers
__________________
Last edited by gwilliams6; 06-01-2023 at 08:54 AM.
#7792
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Oh boy. Glad you're up for restoring it, aside from the obvious, it looks in decent shape?
You can hose the dust off. Maybe not too much pressure at first, but as long as you're removing it without applying pressure and with lubrication (soapy water) you'll be fine.
I would drain the 6 year old gas and oil before starting. Battery might be dead as well. Can't comment on handles or window motors but if they're *both* broken are you sure it's the motors and not a fuse? I would check all fuses anyway.
Also check for obvious signs of animal nests under the hood and in the cabin filter area.
You can hose the dust off. Maybe not too much pressure at first, but as long as you're removing it without applying pressure and with lubrication (soapy water) you'll be fine.
I would drain the 6 year old gas and oil before starting. Battery might be dead as well. Can't comment on handles or window motors but if they're *both* broken are you sure it's the motors and not a fuse? I would check all fuses anyway.
Also check for obvious signs of animal nests under the hood and in the cabin filter area.
#7793
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Here's the general wash strategy I was taught:
1. Rinse as much as possible with just water
2. Spray soap on, let it dwell, then rinse
3. Spray soap again, let it dwell, then wipe gently
Then proceed to whatever next steps you want (clay bar, compound, etc.).
In this case I'd imagine you'd want to repeat each step at least once before moving on to the next.
1. Rinse as much as possible with just water
2. Spray soap on, let it dwell, then rinse
3. Spray soap again, let it dwell, then wipe gently
Then proceed to whatever next steps you want (clay bar, compound, etc.).
In this case I'd imagine you'd want to repeat each step at least once before moving on to the next.
The following users liked this post:
gwilliams6 (06-02-2023)
#7794
///// Upscale Zoom-Zoom
My well maintained 10 GT that's garaged most times has the passenger ABC starting to crack at 57K miles.
#7795
40th anniversary Edition
As some of you may have read in other threads, my 2008 40th Anniversary Edition, with second engine, and many performance and other upgrades is now insured as a Classic Car by State Farm Insurance, which is the majority owner now of Hagerty's Classic Car Insurance. They examined the car and their underwriters did some research of latest auction prices and agreed to insure it for 150% of what I paid for it new back in 2008, with no depreciation. And that dropped my insurance premium in half, yes. So I need to keep it looking at its best, so I will change out that dash airbag cover.
Cheers and best to you.
Last edited by gwilliams6; 06-02-2023 at 11:09 AM.
#7796
40th anniversary Edition
Oh boy. Glad you're up for restoring it, aside from the obvious, it looks in decent shape?
You can hose the dust off. Maybe not too much pressure at first, but as long as you're removing it without applying pressure and with lubrication (soapy water) you'll be fine.
I would drain the 6 year old gas and oil before starting. Battery might be dead as well. Can't comment on handles or window motors but if they're *both* broken are you sure it's the motors and not a fuse? I would check all fuses anyway.
Also check for obvious signs of animal nests under the hood and in the cabin filter area.
You can hose the dust off. Maybe not too much pressure at first, but as long as you're removing it without applying pressure and with lubrication (soapy water) you'll be fine.
I would drain the 6 year old gas and oil before starting. Battery might be dead as well. Can't comment on handles or window motors but if they're *both* broken are you sure it's the motors and not a fuse? I would check all fuses anyway.
Also check for obvious signs of animal nests under the hood and in the cabin filter area.
Be sure to check ALL the mechanical and electrical parts I mentioned in the RX8club's maintenance list. Replace those that need to be replaced, or risk killing your engine, or at the least having poor performance. How many miles on the car ?
Cheers
Last edited by gwilliams6; 06-02-2023 at 11:15 AM.
#7798
40th anniversary Edition
https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-di...change-217642/
"2.06 quarts of GL4-type manual transmission fluid. I recommend either Redline MT-90 or Ford Motorcraft Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid. See end for more details."
Cheers
Last edited by gwilliams6; 06-04-2023 at 10:42 PM.
#7799
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
FYI, both Series One and Series Two RX8 have six-speed manual transmissions. The transmissions are different, with a different shift location for reverse gear, and different final gear ratios.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-di...change-217642/
"2.06 quarts of GL4-type manual transmission fluid. I recommend either Redline MT-90 or Ford Motorcraft Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid. See end for more details."
Cheers
https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-di...change-217642/
"2.06 quarts of GL4-type manual transmission fluid. I recommend either Redline MT-90 or Ford Motorcraft Full Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid. See end for more details."
Cheers
#7800
40th anniversary Edition
You sort it out ok, I was just trying to help here
Cheers