Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
09-22-2015, 08:17 AM
#5276
Too old for PC
Is there a legal medication that can be recommended to border-line neurotic newer RX8 owners so they can relax and enjoy their car?
Last edited by Signal 2; 09-22-2015 at 08:19 AM.
09-22-2015, 08:37 AM
#5277
Water Foul
Noises/Smells
- water rushing sound at idle
- normal heater core noise (can be solved by adding a restrictor to the heater core line)
09-22-2015, 05:34 PM
#5279
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
09-22-2015, 07:26 PM
#5280
I've decided to do a mid or rear mount turbo setup. The oil lines will be so long that I don't think it will affect oil temps too much. It's good to know I can use it for the coolant line to or after the turbo
(Not decided yet.) but she goes in Thursday for surgery.
09-23-2015, 05:28 AM
#5282
Nice, I also heard it could be the A/C drain, but your guess is probably right, cause I had the A/C run and it does drain properly. Also if there is problems with the A/C drain line, I heard it can leak into the car driver or passenger carpet or even on someone while driving.
09-23-2015, 07:38 AM
#5283
Water Foul
09-23-2015, 10:36 AM
#5285
Registered
Most major auto parts stores will read/reset the code for free.
For around 20 bucks you can get an OBD-II scanner that'll hook up with your android smartphone via Bluetooth. That coupled with a $5 app from the Google play store (Torque) will then allow you to read/reset those codes yourself.
09-23-2015, 02:03 PM
#5286
Senior Member
09-23-2015, 02:06 PM
#5287
Senior Member
To completely reflash a PCM, the tool is 200 bucks, with 300 bucks for the software and a PC. It sounds like he is either replacing it, or outsourcing someone to come in and re-code the whole damn setup.
Series 1 or 2?
If 1 = Easy as ****
If 2 = Not as well documented elsewhere, but still very simple.
Judging off your other thread, it sounds like your mechanic doesn't understand Mazda Specific PID codes, and it sounds like you have an 05 engine. It really is pretty simple for your setup to reset the PCM, but that is NOT the same as re-flashing it. Both are easy once you have the tools, but they take different things.
Reflashing will take a Tactrix OpenPort2 and a software utiltity like Mazdaedit. Alternatively VersaTuner with the Versa Adapter. Same process as tuning the car, and (for flashing, not tuning!) usually to get Mazda to do it, it costs a little money..... BUT check with a good dealer to make since since the 04s and 05s had problems from the factory! (might be cheap or free depending on how nice your dealer is or if they have hookups at Mazda Warranty)
Clearing codes and reseting the PCM, will take a cheap OBD2 adapter and usually a free program that it comes with. Check out Amazon for cheap *** ones, or get a ODBLINK MX for a little more and it will be worth it for monitoring and Torque support.
Last edited by badinfluence; 09-23-2015 at 02:13 PM.
09-23-2015, 04:57 PM
#5288
What the ****? Oh there is an error so I am going to replace all the electronic harnesses, recode an PCM, jack off in the corner, and charge you 750 to spite you!
To completely reflash a PCM, the tool is 200 bucks, with 300 bucks for the software and a PC. It sounds like he is either replacing it, or outsourcing someone to come in and re-code the whole damn setup.
Series 1 or 2?
If 1 = Easy as ****
If 2 = Not as well documented elsewhere, but still very simple.
Judging off your other thread, it sounds like your mechanic doesn't understand Mazda Specific PID codes, and it sounds like you have an 05 engine. It really is pretty simple for your setup to reset the PCM, but that is NOT the same as re-flashing it. Both are easy once you have the tools, but they take different things.
Reflashing will take a Tactrix OpenPort2 and a software utiltity like Mazdaedit. Alternatively VersaTuner with the Versa Adapter. Same process as tuning the car, and (for flashing, not tuning!) usually to get Mazda to do it, it costs a little money..... BUT check with a good dealer to make since since the 04s and 05s had problems from the factory! (might be cheap or free depending on how nice your dealer is or if they have hookups at Mazda Warranty)
Clearing codes and reseting the PCM, will take a cheap OBD2 adapter and usually a free program that it comes with. Check out Amazon for cheap *** ones, or get a ODBLINK MX for a little more and it will be worth it for monitoring and Torque support.
To completely reflash a PCM, the tool is 200 bucks, with 300 bucks for the software and a PC. It sounds like he is either replacing it, or outsourcing someone to come in and re-code the whole damn setup.
Series 1 or 2?
If 1 = Easy as ****
If 2 = Not as well documented elsewhere, but still very simple.
Judging off your other thread, it sounds like your mechanic doesn't understand Mazda Specific PID codes, and it sounds like you have an 05 engine. It really is pretty simple for your setup to reset the PCM, but that is NOT the same as re-flashing it. Both are easy once you have the tools, but they take different things.
Reflashing will take a Tactrix OpenPort2 and a software utiltity like Mazdaedit. Alternatively VersaTuner with the Versa Adapter. Same process as tuning the car, and (for flashing, not tuning!) usually to get Mazda to do it, it costs a little money..... BUT check with a good dealer to make since since the 04s and 05s had problems from the factory! (might be cheap or free depending on how nice your dealer is or if they have hookups at Mazda Warranty)
Clearing codes and reseting the PCM, will take a cheap OBD2 adapter and usually a free program that it comes with. Check out Amazon for cheap *** ones, or get a ODBLINK MX for a little more and it will be worth it for monitoring and Torque support.
Last edited by mazdafan1892; 09-24-2015 at 03:29 AM.
09-23-2015, 05:34 PM
#5289
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
You need to go get the OBD scanned, (for free) at an auto parts store, get the printout, and post the results here.
This is your best resource for RX8 answers.
The milky stuff is on the dipstick?
That's normal.
The 'engine' light is the CEL (Check Engine Light) could be a number of things, some minor, like a gas cap.
The coolant light is usually a bad sensor.
This is your best resource for RX8 answers.
The milky stuff is on the dipstick?
That's normal.
The 'engine' light is the CEL (Check Engine Light) could be a number of things, some minor, like a gas cap.
The coolant light is usually a bad sensor.
09-23-2015, 05:49 PM
#5290
Registered
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Should the throttle body butter fly return to fully "closed" when released (by hand), or is it normal for it to return to a position of being very slightly open? There are no carbon deposits or any visible/palpable obstruction preventing full closure.
09-23-2015, 08:57 PM
#5291
Do we know for certain that Beck Arnley ( a pretty reputable company, AFAIK) coils are not up to spec C? Seems paying about 1/2 of OEM might be worth a shot, given that they're not some chinese knock-off.
09-24-2015, 12:08 AM
#5292
Sicker than your average
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Originally Posted by Steve Dallas
The heater system is used to control temperature in the climate control system. We don't really know exactly what the valves and solenoids are doing from one minute to the next.
Noises/Smells
Noises/Smells
- water rushing sound at idle
- normal heater core noise (can be solved by adding a restrictor to the heater core line)
09-24-2015, 11:29 AM
#5295
Senior Member
First of all thanks so much for the reply. Yeah I have a series 1. Yes my mechanic doesnt know too much about rx8's. He told me he had a mechanic who used to work for mazda check it out. He said to fix the computer back to normal or whatever it would cost around $2000 bucks. I was like wtf? Recently went to Mazda and they installed the new starter and checked the engine light and said I might need a new gas cap. Also the engine light isnt flashing on and off just on so its kinda good. Def taking everything you said into consideration and taking notes. The thing I will be addressing first now is my oil which is milky yellow and my coolant. The coolant light flashed this morning but the engine light is on. The coolant cap may need to be changed too. Figuring it out. One paycheck at a time lol. Seriously might sell it though. Considering it.
What is it?
Do not have your mechanic check it, have it done at a Mazda Dealership.
If it is low, replace the engine or sell it. It sounds like it is becoming a money pit for you.
09-24-2015, 05:48 PM
#5296
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lol.
09-24-2015, 05:50 PM
#5297
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09-24-2015, 05:54 PM
#5298
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The coolent light on is probably the sensor and or float, they are a bad design and have a track record of causing problems and premature failure. I would tell you what i did about it but i would catch a lashing from the hot rods here so just use the search bar and you will probably find all your answers. I spend most of my time here in the search mode. Good luck with it.
09-24-2015, 05:57 PM
#5299
Too old for PC
