Team Tora Productions

So my tuning research is in process as there are some lengthy videos to watch and equipment to buy. Thanks for the info on tuning and MazdaEdit. I was reading a lot of issues with Cobb. Would there be a reason to get Cobb over MazdaEdit?


I am now replacing some rotors and calipers and getting the car set up for next year's track and solo events. I am actually satisfied with factory rotors and see some pretty cheap replacements from RockAuto. But they have a ton of parts listed and I was wondering which would be good for track and solo? A few threads recommended the Centric parts, unslotted. But RockAuto lists them as Daily Driving only. The only Centric parts in Performance and track are slotted. Lots of people say slotted rotors are worse then unslotted. Any recommendations?


Are there alternatives I should look at? I currently use HP+ and am considering some Carbotech XP8's for my next pad replacement. I was also looking at RacingBeat's Aluminum Caliper upgrades. Do all these parts go well together? Any issues I need to be aware of?


Oh also, for daily driving, I was looking at CENTRIC 12045071 Premium. Are these just as good as factory? It also says Sport Suspension next to it. Does that mean it won't work with factory suspension? Otherwise I was looking at these: CENTRIC 12645072SL. If I am happy with factory, is there a need for the track use rotors? Will they not work at all on street?

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

Are you reading just basic tuning books are are you actually doing research on these forums?
There are threads on both of those options, and both offer pretty much the same results. Do some reading about each option and come to a decision that works best for you.


Again, there's plenty of info here regarding brakes and calipers for racing. Look in the racing subforum

Quit trying to be spoon fed. This is the "dumb questions" thread, not the "answers for my lazy ***" thread.

Team Tora Productions

I am reading a lot of content on and off this forum and watching videos via the links provided earlier. A lot of people reported issues with the Cobb system causing their 8 to not start and map errors. But more people are still saying to use Cobb... Maybe you can see my dilemma? Why would I want Cobb if MazdaEdit doesn't have any issues but still works the same? My question was simply; "It seems so obvious to go with MazdaEdit, what am I missing with people suggesting Cobb more?"


Otherwise, I come here because I see contradictions in research. Rotors are one of these contradictions with many people saying go RB's Big Brake Slotted rotors, many saying stay OEM even with track-only use, and lots more saying to avoid slotted all-together because of reduced stopping power. But nobody posts evidence so all I have is +/- system on recommendations with everything zeroing out at the end. This actually happens a lot on this site and I use this section as a last resort looking for more experienced answers.


You need to realize there are many people on these forums that do not have as much experience as you, and something you think may be obvious (through experience) may not be obvious to others. No need to get frustrated.

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

Cobb has been around longer. That's the only difference. And the issues you may have heard are only from users who have had those issues. It's not common for someone to post a thread saying they've had no issues.
Well here's a response: I have had zero issues with my cobb over the last 5 years.

As for your rotors questions - you won't get the answer you're looking for. Yes, it's a lot of "go with these" "don't go with those" "you suck". Asking about it won't change that. Do your due diligence. Find what will make YOU feel better on the track. And once you've done so, post a thread about your results. But be prepared for "those are garbage" responses.

That's just the way it is...

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I think the general consensus is that if you are thinking about tuning your car you are going to have to make decisions...a lot of them on your own

Most of us that have tuned are own cars have done a lot of trial and error..and unless you try stuff you won't see how it works

Start out small with things that won't cause engine failure...like fan temps and when you have successfully changed those and have a hang of how the flash tuning works then try other things

You will have more luck if you ask specific questions......

Either the Cobb or MazdaEdit will work. The Cobb isn't really supported anymore so logic would likely make me buy a MazdaEdit unit instead.

As for brakes.....The stock ones work quite well on the track up to a point....If you want to upgrade there are options available and the rest will be peoples opinions

I have had great luck with the RB setup. I was involved in the early days with it and it has been a great package for me. The rotors have way surpassed my expectations and have lasted for way longer than I ever would have imagined

Personally I would stay away from cheap rotors unless you plan on changing them a lot ( and that is just my personal opinion )

Salmonella_6

Had my engine rebuilt. Sounds good. Only problem now I was told is that when my cooling fans goes to turn on if shuts off my engine. Was told that it may be a shortage in the fan somewhere and I should have the cooling fan replaced Can anyone clarify this and what is going on?

Nisaja

What are you saying here? Does the fans turn off after shutting down the engine or does the engine shut off when the fans turns on?

Salmonella_6

I think the shop was saying that when the fans turns on it kills the engine. I was told that all the lights stay on and they do not dim just the engine turns itself off.

Steve Dallas

I will do my best to answer your brake questions, but your questions are so basic, it is no wonder other posters were immediately impatient with you.

1. Sport suspension refers to the majority of RX-8s. Unless you have a 4 port automatic, you have a sport suspension as it applies to brakes. The non-sport suspension came with smaller rotors and softer suspension components. Go by rotor diameter and verify your parts that way.

2. There is no consensus answer on slotted vs. plain. It is something you will have to decide for yourself--if you can even do that. I have both types of rotors and cannot tell any difference, honestly. Just stay away from drilled on the track, as they tend to crack.

3. Centric plain rotors work fine. A lot of people use them. I have a set and can't tell any difference between them, OEM, and StopTech Sport rotors, which I also have.

4. Carbotech pads, in my opinion, are far more responsive than Hawk on the track. Don't bother with XP-8s on the front. Go with either XP10F and XP8R or XP12F and XP10R. I started with the former and am moving to the latter with my next purchase due to some slight fade issues toward the end of a session.

I don't have answers for any of your other questions (RB calipers, etc.) other than to say stock is fine for track use. The main thing is cooling. You MUST adequately cool your brakes before parking the car. Make the most of your cool-down lap, and jump out on the highway and cruise for 4 or 5 miles if you can after each session.

.

midnightmangs

G'day guys. I'm new so i couldn't start a thread but I've got a question for all you rotary wizards out there.

I'm looking to buy an RX-8 (wouldn't be here otherwise really). I'm looking at one tomorrow that's had a rebuild last year (15,000km ago). I asked the guy what the rebuild contained and he said the rotor housing was cracked, so they replaced it and cleaned out all the corrosion and what not. However the seals and what not weren't replaced. Is this a problem? I was just under the assumption that if a rotor housing was cracked, it could cause more problems. Like damage to the rotors, apex seals, you know the drill.

I did my best to search the internet for problems but nothing really explained it.

Thanks for the help in advance.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

If the seals weren't replaced, expect that engine to be dead. Get a compression test to confirm. Rebuilding an engine without replacing the seals requires an expert level competency to avoid having a motor that can no longer pass a compression test after about 10,000 miles. Not to mention relapping the irons, etc...

I probably wouldn't even bother, if you like the car, confirm or disprove it with a compression test.

midnightmangs

Thanks for that buddy, really appreciate it. I'll do just that. Seemed a bit fishy to begin with, I guess the super cheap price was a bit too good to be true with a rebuild.

Thanks again!

Salmonella_6

Got my car back today. Turns out a bad cooling fan can kill your engine.
Car runs and drives fin except for the fact of no power steering. I will change the EPC first.
Car seem to idle between 850 and 750. Haven't tried it with the AC on yet. I have to drive it for awhile also to be sure the car re-learn a steady idle.
Since the engine was rebuilt I think it will be a good ideal to go ahead and put a new MAF sensor on the car and change my cabin air filter.
Also anyone has and recommendations on a good Air filter for a short ram?

badinfluence

Cabin air filter is never a bad idea, but I think the MAF sensor is a bit excessive. It is a wire that measures resistance, just clean it, it isn't worth the insane prices people want for them. If your going to do anything add a tuning solution and add a higher resolution MAF, which is excessive, but not insane.

AEM Intake with dryflow wrap or Racing Beat. Don't screw around here, Mazda put the world into the OEM one and your raping your car going with something less than AEM or RacingBeat. They are expensive because it is pretty hard to get better than Stock on this car.... The AEM can be reused if you go turbo. Stick with paper filters for the stock OEM filter. Rortaries ARE more vulnerable to small stuff that K&N lets in.

Drive for 50-80 miles. I don't understand the cooling fan bit..... Did they replace it? Sounds like it was siezed and/or was creating EMI? That is a weird one that is making me go WTF?

poacherinthezoo

I always struggle to remove the clips that hold electric connectors together (MAF sensor, ignition coils, e-shaft position sensor, etc). I can't seem to get a good grip on it and be able to apply sufficient pressure to remove them at the same time. Someone please share with me if there is a secret handshake I'm not aware of or if I just need to get fingers that aren't so fat?

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I have a little 90 degree pick tool that I use to push the retainer in with..and pull on the plug. Works way easier than trying to use my finger

Nisaja

Dumb question guys. Does anyone know the phone number of onlinemazdaparts.com? I've placed an order but having a few issues. Thought of calling them up.

Nisaja

people, what's up with this sound?? Ive searched but never found the root cause.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Loose belt?

Steve Dallas

Does pressing the clutch to the floor stop it? If so, it is probably the clutch slave cylinder. You can quiet it down by greasing the rod. If not, I got nuthin'.

rx-fish04

New member here, I've recently purchased my 04 rx8. The previous owner, it looks like, ripped up all the plastic shielding (I'm not sure what its really called) underneath the engine. Would anyone happen to know where i could buy a replacement one? thanks in advance.

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

Try contacting mazmart.com. They're a vendor here and are very helpful!

rx-fish04

Thanks!

mazdafan1892

I was looking everywhere for the Coolant Temperature Sensor it seems its under the intake manifold. I cannot see the sensor, looks like one has to take the manifold apart first am I right?

Signal 2

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