Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
#5477
Sicker than your average
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I didn't find a sticky but I read numerous suspension threads and couldn't find the OEM replacement part numbers for Tokico and KYB rear shocks for a car with normal suspension.
Does anybody here know them?
Does anybody here know them?
#5478
[QUOTE=Grace_Excel;4726084]Facing the front of the car, the oil drain plug is on the left side of the oil pan. The one to it's right with the wires is the sensor. The bolt uses a 19mm socket.[/QUOTE
Yeah I realized I had screwed up when I noticed the red tint to the fluid and looked up and saw the actual oil pan. Found out I was right about which was the fill plug, it was the top one and took a 24mm or 15/16 in socket to break it loose.
Yeah I realized I had screwed up when I noticed the red tint to the fluid and looked up and saw the actual oil pan. Found out I was right about which was the fill plug, it was the top one and took a 24mm or 15/16 in socket to break it loose.
#5479
Water Foul
#5480
Sicker than your average
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Originally Posted by Steve Dallas
Series 1 or Series 2?
What I need are the OEM replacement part numbers for Tokico and KYB shocks to replace these stock shocks.
#5481
Water Foul
The FE numbers are the Mazda part numbers.
Aftermarket Tokico part numbers are for their HP Series shocks (slight upgrade over OEM Tokicos):
Front: HU-3754
Rear: HU-3755
KYB Gas-A-Just part numbers are:
Front: 551115
Rear: 551116
I would replace all 4 shocks at once. If the rears are blown, you can bet the fronts are pretty worn too. You may need to purchase new bellows, bushings, and especially bump stops. KYB sells these as add-on hardware kits that can be used with their shocks or any other brand.
.
Aftermarket Tokico part numbers are for their HP Series shocks (slight upgrade over OEM Tokicos):
Front: HU-3754
Rear: HU-3755
KYB Gas-A-Just part numbers are:
Front: 551115
Rear: 551116
I would replace all 4 shocks at once. If the rears are blown, you can bet the fronts are pretty worn too. You may need to purchase new bellows, bushings, and especially bump stops. KYB sells these as add-on hardware kits that can be used with their shocks or any other brand.
.
Last edited by Steve Dallas; 10-31-2015 at 05:39 PM.
#5482
Sicker than your average
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Originally Posted by Steve Dallas
The FE numbers are the Mazda part numbers.
Aftermarket Tokico part numbers are for their HP Series shocks (slight upgrade over OEM Tokicos):
Front: HU-3754
Rear: HU-3755
KYB Gas-A-Just part numbers are:
Front: 551115
Rear: 551116
I would replace all 4 shocks at once. If the rears are blown, you can bet the fronts are pretty worn too. You may need to purchase new bellows, bushings, and especially bump stops. KYB sells these as add-on hardware kits that can be used with their shocks or any other brand.
.
Aftermarket Tokico part numbers are for their HP Series shocks (slight upgrade over OEM Tokicos):
Front: HU-3754
Rear: HU-3755
KYB Gas-A-Just part numbers are:
Front: 551115
Rear: 551116
I would replace all 4 shocks at once. If the rears are blown, you can bet the fronts are pretty worn too. You may need to purchase new bellows, bushings, and especially bump stops. KYB sells these as add-on hardware kits that can be used with their shocks or any other brand.
.
#5483
Water Foul
Wow. You mean 4 port automatics actually exist in the wild? Unbelievable. You had better relocate that car to a vehicle preserve before someone poaches it for its tiny brake rotors.
There is nothing in the aftermarket specifically made for the non-sport suspension. The main differences between the suspensions are softer springs, softer sway bars, and less aggressive valving in the shocks (to make that baby ride like a Cadillac!). The part numbers I gave you will physically fit the car and work with the softer springs, since they aren't much softer. Being adjustable, the KYBs enable you to adjust for that, but the rears are impractical to adjust once installed.
There is nothing in the aftermarket specifically made for the non-sport suspension. The main differences between the suspensions are softer springs, softer sway bars, and less aggressive valving in the shocks (to make that baby ride like a Cadillac!). The part numbers I gave you will physically fit the car and work with the softer springs, since they aren't much softer. Being adjustable, the KYBs enable you to adjust for that, but the rears are impractical to adjust once installed.
#5484
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Originally Posted by Steve Dallas
Wow. You mean 4 port automatics actually exist in the wild? Unbelievable. You had better relocate that car to a vehicle preserve before someone poaches it for its tiny brake rotors.
There is nothing in the aftermarket specifically made for the non-sport suspension. The main differences between the suspensions are softer springs, softer sway bars, and less aggressive valving in the shocks (to make that baby ride like a Cadillac!). The part numbers I gave you will physically fit the car and work with the softer springs, since they aren't much softer. Being adjustable, the KYBs enable you to adjust for that, but the rears are impractical to adjust once installed.
There is nothing in the aftermarket specifically made for the non-sport suspension. The main differences between the suspensions are softer springs, softer sway bars, and less aggressive valving in the shocks (to make that baby ride like a Cadillac!). The part numbers I gave you will physically fit the car and work with the softer springs, since they aren't much softer. Being adjustable, the KYBs enable you to adjust for that, but the rears are impractical to adjust once installed.
So you can adjust the stiffness of the KYBs?
#5485
Rx -8 Bros, so still puzzled over here on what the issue is causing my Rx-8 to crank. Usually when I fill up my car thats when I notice it every week. But just had a big long crank when I stopped at a Autozone to check the battery for a second time. Everything came out good, no codes too. I am thinking its either the fuel injectors or the ECU. I had the starter replaced, new battery, new fuel pump, new solenoids(All done by the dealer). I cleaned the MAF, the throttle body too. What do you guys think?
#5487
Yes they were replaced not too long ago. The compression is good as far as I know. I had the compression tested by Mazda and my personal mechanic. Could the ECU or a bad fuel injector be the cause?
#5490
Time for boost...
iTrader: (24)
Dumb Question Thread - no flaming or sarcasm allowed
Well if you read that sticky, you would notice that leaking injectors could be causing hard start issues.
The thing is that you need to troubleshoot to figure out what the exact issue is.
Read through the sticky I mentioned, and if you still can't discover the issue, report back what you have done and what didn't work.
The thing is that you need to troubleshoot to figure out what the exact issue is.
Read through the sticky I mentioned, and if you still can't discover the issue, report back what you have done and what didn't work.
#5491
Water Foul
Yes, you can adjust the rebound on the KYBs. The problem is you have to remove the rears from the car to adjust them, so most people just set them in the middle, install them once, and never touch them again.
#5492
Well if you read that sticky, you would notice that leaking injectors could be causing hard start issues.
The thing is that you need to troubleshoot to figure out what the exact issue is.
Read through the sticky I mentioned, and if you still can't discover the issue, report back what you have done and what didn't work.
The thing is that you need to troubleshoot to figure out what the exact issue is.
Read through the sticky I mentioned, and if you still can't discover the issue, report back what you have done and what didn't work.
Fair enough.
Looking over thread right now.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...t-here-222584/
But on a side note. I am really happy right now. I have to confirm but it looks like Mazda replaced the Cat. Converter cause it was under warranty last year.
The car just started fine but still researching and reading the thread.
#5493
Question: I know the 3 rotor isn't common on the street but was wondering if any one is aware of the cost of the 3 rotor and the real problems there are to adapting a 3 rotor to a stock 4 port motor for the street?.
#5494
Senior Member
Look at RIWWP's signature, he answers this question, but in a different way.
Monetarily it will vary on your problem solving ability and physical ability to mold your surrounding.
-IE Can you weld, build engine, program ECUs, wire circuits, balance a turbocharger, do maths?!?!
Assuming 1 or 2 of those maybe 15-20k. If you have friends that can do many of those maybe 7-10? that assumes you have zero of the parts you need.
Taking a Renesis engine and adding another rotor is not easily. I it far easier to take an existing 3 rotor engine and put it in the car.
Technical Problems will be at least
-Cooling!!!!OMG HOT!!!
-Oil Capacity
-Premix (Separate from cooling)
-Tuning
-Mounting (most make a 13B adapter kit for the FD, but not sure on the 20B)
-Fuel Delivery
-Electrical relocation
Might want to look at RX7club for some more specific information on 3 rotors. In my opinion adding another rotor isn't worth it for all the turbocharger and supercharger information available and cost. (20k vs 5k)
#5495
Professional Videographer
I have to replace the belts on my car. Was going to upgrade the pulleys while I'm at it. Used to have a chain instead of belt system on an older car and it just felt right. Was wondering if the RX8 had a chain option?
#5496
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
I admit I'm not familiar with the concept, but a chain on a high rpm rotary doesn't sound like a good idea.
#5497
Senior Member
A belt is designed to slip, expand, shrink to prevent from breaking items if they lock up like the A/C compressor and alternator.
Getting a more industrial belt, and better pulley sounds about right and for the series 1 at least, it is a pretty common thing. I would NOT **** with the alternator drive on a series 2, and possible the series 1 because it is a phase controlled alternator that receives a signal from the PCM. That is the exact reason you do not run the car without a battery, cap, or load because it will jump to 16v and freak out and possible nuke the PCM. As far as I know everything else isn't a big deal.
#5498
1% evil, 99% hot gas.
iTrader: (21)
Chain-drive water pump? Never seen one on a car. Doesn't make a lot of sense.
I have seen a Gilmer-drive (cogged belt) setup for Mazda rotaries. Search the web and you'll find it. Doubt it's available or practical for the RX-8.
I have seen a Gilmer-drive (cogged belt) setup for Mazda rotaries. Search the web and you'll find it. Doubt it's available or practical for the RX-8.
#5500
Sicker than your average
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A serious question. We see a lotta people buying new upgraded starter motors when their starters slow down.
Why spend so much on a new motor when they can just open up the motor and clean/replace the brushes? That should fix the problem!
Why spend so much on a new motor when they can just open up the motor and clean/replace the brushes? That should fix the problem!