When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It seems you are searching for a "one size fits all" solution to boosting.
Simply put there is not one.
If you look through the major horsepower threads you will see a myriad of different Setups.
No one here has a blanket answer for you.
I will help with this bit of info. You will need...
A new fuel pump
A better clutch (depending upon power goals)
Gauges-afr, boost, oil pressure and most would argue fuel pressure at minimum.
A way to tune it, I.E. Cobb
Most would also argue either a spare motor or enough cash for a spare for WHEN you blow your engine.
Boost controller
There is quite a bit involved with boosting a car. It's not just slap it on and go. It seems you don't have the patience to read through threads (there are a lot I know) which would lead me to believe you may not have the patience for this either.
Hopefully that bit if info and my two cents helps.
Good luck
Travis
Hey Travis,
I understand what your saying, and agree that I may seem impatient. I just thought acquiring a few fragments of info would be better than sifting through 736 pages on the closely related threads. But everyone is like " sorry dude if we had to read it all,so shall you." So be it. I'll keep digging to find the missing pieces to this puzzle. I'm a bit of a backyard mechanic, and I understand the challenge of boosting the Rex is more difficult than arguably every other car. So far I've got ready:
A universal turbo kit off ebay, turbo, tubing, inter cooler etc...
(I can already hear the booing)
It's a t3/t4 50 trim which I'm thinking is a bit small but whatever, use it till it breaks.
Custom manifold and all exhaust as well as fitting of the kit to be done at exhaust shop.
Boost gauge
Egt gauge
No wideband, I was gonna just go off the Cobb, or is a wide and better?
Bov
W/g
750cc injectors in the p2 position
And those yellows in the p1 position.
I'm skipping the fuel pump for now.
Tuning the Cobb, I'm still going through Kane's tuner thread and see if can extract the info that I don't already know. I was curious specifically about the air pump and if It has removed on other applications. It's kinda in the way of a top mount design.
So once I SEARCH what the air pump actually does and if it's relevant to turbocharging I'll plan accordingly. I've had to work on my car since I bought it brand new. No mechanic, not even the dealership fully understood this car at the time. Watching them try to work on it was like watching a doctor operate on an alien.
So somebody recently decided to key my car and slashed my tires. (May have been the soon to be ex misses) but now it needs to be repainted. I'm debating on going with the gray mica to keep it a 40th AE but I'm considering other suggestions?
Can you start your own thread so I can flame you please ............
I can't, I don't have that privilege.
But you can flame throw right here. I'll even start it for you.
I'm married with 4 kids, so I can't afford the name brand stuff just yet. I sabotage my kids homework so hopefully they won't make it into collage. THEN
I'll by the good ****.
My car has electrical tape and drywall screws holding the front lip. But it's ok, my car is black.
An when I'm doing 60 at night (in the rain) you can't see it.
And I think I still have a shot of feeling some boost before blowing any gaskets. Even if I need to pay a tuner, I will.
Other parts I've gathered are
Sandwich plate
10 row oil cooler (mishimoto) :p
Turbo jacket
Header wrap
All SS lines ( vibrant) ;p
So if I'm missing something, chime in (or flame on)
Well, Brettus is the OP of this thread, so he won't.
That's the idea, a no flaming thread.
If you really want to get flamed, he has his own turbo thread you could post in, and 9krpmrx8 would be more than happy to oblige you in his thread too, I'm sure.
Ic. Judging by the first few posts, I didn't think anybody was following the rules. I apologize for flaming myself on your thread Brutus. I hope I'm not being too sarcastic either. Ill check out the turbo threads, see what's cookin'
Ic. Judging by the first few posts, I didn't think anybody was following the rules. I waslogize for flaming myself on your thread Brutus. I hope I'm not being too sarcastic either. Ill check out the turbo threads, see what's cookin'
"...the code is more what you'd call 'guidelines' than actual rules."
Don't sweat it bro, you're doing fine, have a good attitude about it.
When I first joined 3 years ago, there was a thread called something like "Why are RX8 owners A**holes?"
It got locked, but there was actually some pretty good discussions there.
I thought it should have been left open.
Good luck with your money pit, er, I mean turbo project.
it was a bit sacastic, i was trying to stay on topic. my questions are dumb to sombody who has already gone through the process. iv done plenty of reading all over the forum, and i still cant seem to find what im looking for. (including all the trolling in between).go ahead and ask me anything.:
The concern I have is that you still have these basic questions after "plenty of reading all over the forum". I'm thinking you either read the wrong threads or aren't comprehending what you are reading. I suggest you not begin your turbo project until you find the right threads or re-read the turbo threads until you do comprehend them. Otherwise I'm afraid you're going to waste a lot of time and money (that by your own admission you don't have) and wind up with a bad setup and a blown engine. Do you have $3000-4000 for another engine?
i hope to achieve 10psi of boost. i know what it feels like and i want it. i dont really care about the whp, 275-300 would do me fine.
This statement confuses me and reinforces that I don't think you have researched and understood enough yet. Wheel horsepower is what makes it "feel like" what you want. Done right will all the required supporting mods, 10 PSI of boost will put you well over 300 WHP. Done wrong, instant popped engine.
I've been slowly building the parts and knowledge needed to go FI myself. My goal is a reliable 300 WHP. The mods to support that do not include a Mishimoto oil cooler, header wrap, or "all SS lines" (whatever those are, unless you mean brake lines). There are other mods that will be absolutely necessary to get either 10 PSI or 300 WHP, none of which you've mentioned.
Please, keep reading the posts in the Major Horsepower subforum. Keep making relevant contributions to the forum until you can start your own thread with your plans and goals and get guidance (and flames) there. You've already passed the required post count, just wait another 17 days and you'll be able to start that thread. Use the time to read. If you can't answer you're own question about keeping the air pump or not, you haven't read enough yet.
Lol that's too funny. I always thought BMW owners were a-holes. I would like to post my own build thread, so other can share my excitement (or misery)
I love a good challenge, and I love my car. I'm gonna keep reading up on turbo 8's and see if I can avoid any hurdles. Tuning will be my biggest concern, Im no tuner, just might spend $300 and get MM to tune it. I'm still researching how to tune the Cobb for FI. The only thing I've done with it so far is set the fans a few degrees earlier, and dick around with the S-dais activations. But as far as where to start and finish with the new mapping I'm lost. If all goes well, I'll have a boosted 8 by spring time.
The concern I have is that you still have these basic questions after "plenty of reading all over the forum". I'm thinking you either read the wrong threads or aren't comprehending what you are reading. I suggest you not begin your turbo project until you find the right threads or re-read the turbo threads until you do comprehend them. Otherwise I'm afraid you're going to waste a lot of time and money (that by your own admission you don't have) and wind up with a bad setup and a blown engine. Do you have $3000-4000 for another engine?
This statement confuses me and reinforces that I don't think you have researched and understood enough yet. Wheel horsepower is what makes it "feel like" what you want. Done right will all the required supporting mods, 10 PSI of boost will put you well over 300 WHP. Done wrong, instant popped engine.
I've been slowly building the parts and knowledge needed to go FI myself. My goal is a reliable 300 WHP. The mods to support that do not include a Mishimoto oil cooler, header wrap, or "all SS lines" (whatever those are, unless you mean brake lines). There are other mods that will be absolutely necessary to get either 10 PSI or 300 WHP, none of which you've mentioned.
Please, keep reading the posts in the Major Horsepower subforum. Keep making relevant contributions to the forum until you can start your own thread with your plans and goals and get guidance (and flames) there. You've already passed the required post count, just wait another 17 days and you'll be able to start that thread. Use the time to read. If you can't answer you're own question about keeping the air pump or not, you haven't read enough yet.
ok a small bio on myself.
ive been in the sport compact world for over twenty years. my understanding of turbocharging and the neccesary chages to acomodate a turbo on an n/a engine is about a 7 out of 10 generlly speaking.
my understanding of rotary engines is also about a 7
ive experimented with HHO (hydrogen) in my 06 gt and monitored the pros and cons for about 60,000km without popping the motor.
i also added various additives in the fuel tank such as 2`stroke oil and lucas etc. long before i learned that the orgional flash ran the series one motors a bit dry. you name it my car drank it. and if i plan to tune it myself it will only be when i feel confident that i can start rich and trim fuel back as needed.
i appriciate your concern but, you seem more worried about this build then i am.
and for that i thank you. but have no fear ive overcome greater obsticles. ill figure it out man.......AND POST SOME COOL PICS OR VIDS!
[QUOTE=wankelbolt;4716916]That explains a lot, unfortunately. [QUOTE]
What? Mazda has experimented with hydrogen on the rotary motor. You've got some reading to do young man!
[QUOTE]The level of knowledge you have demonstrated here so far doesn't match your estimate. Pursuing psuedoscience doesn't improve that estimate. [QUOTE]
Maybe not, but it shows that I got bawlz
Good luck, I look forward to your build and the videos. No sarcasm.
thanks but but you flamed me in an almost indecipherable manner.
So I have modded my N/A 8 quite a bit over the past year..
I've refrained from posting much since I have searched and found most my answers in this forum, thanks for posting and making it very informative.
However,
One of the first mods I did was the oil pressure regulator from RB, I think rated 90-95 psi...
And for some reason I shimmed the front too, I read somewhere to do it to even the pressure on both front and back of the engine. Recently I found a post that if you shimm the front bypass it should be no more then 1/8th of an inch. When I did it I think it was more like 1/4th for me. Any idea how this will affect the engine, especially the inner and outer control rings?
I talked with Mazda of Lakewood in Colorado in my quest to find out why the AT light is illuminated once in a while. I was told by Mazda( Take what they say with grain of salt) that there are two devices on the 2004 automatic transmission, one is a solenoid valve and the other is a revolution sensor.
I get the revolution sensor, it senses rev's for the trans but i am unaware of what the solenoid valve does except for the lack of any explanation from any one i guess it is to assist in shifting with the trans in manual mode?. Any one care to expound further i would be great full. For the lack of a response on the issue i will continue to research and post my findings. It is some what of a shame that snarkism is so thick here at the rx8 club .
Select year, model, and "Fuel, Intake, & Exhaust systems". Then click on the document in the right pane that says "AIR CLEANER" for high power or low power. The fitting (called "Joint, Air Hose") is on that diagram and is $7.94 from them. Mazda part number that you can take to your local dealer is in the blue box to the right of the price for that part.
Can anyone link me to a greddy turbo install guide? Ive looked in several different forums, but cant find anything similar to what I'm looking for. Im not planning on doing an install myself anytime soon. I just want to see how everything fits together and get a feel for some of the labor involved. Thanks!
Last edited by Digitz0070; 09-16-2015 at 07:14 PM.
I talked with Mazda of Lakewood in Colorado in my quest to find out why the AT light is illuminated once in a while. I was told by Mazda( Take what they say with grain of salt) that there are two devices on the 2004 automatic transmission, one is a solenoid valve and the other is a revolution sensor.
I get the revolution sensor, it senses rev's for the trans but i am unaware of what the solenoid valve does except for the lack of any explanation from any one i guess it is to assist in shifting with the trans in manual mode?. Any one care to expound further i would be great full. For the lack of a response on the issue i will continue to research and post my findings. It is some what of a shame that snarkism is so thick here at the rx8 club .
hey reni,
im not a mechanic, just so we're clear. but from what i know (which for me is sufficient) solenoid valves have something to do with the shifting of gears(i think) so if it shifts fine, its probably not that. if i were you, (that would be so cool) i would spray some contact cleaner on both sides of that sensor and clip it back and see. if those are the only 2 things that are tranny related that throw cel's then it shouldnt be hard to figer out...........errr shouldnt be.
im not a mechanic, just so we're clear. but from what i know (which for me is sufficient) solenoid valves have something to do with the shifting of gears(i think) so if it shifts fine, its probably not that. if i were you, (that would be so cool) i would spray some contact cleaner on both sides of that sensor and clip it back and see. if those are the only 2 things that are tranny related that throw cel's then it shouldnt be hard to figer out...........errr shouldnt be.
Hey thanks , I figured it out. It was the high temp that day. It was 105 degrees F that day. i did my second dump on the trans pan and no cel's since.Thanks for the response.
No prob, thanks to greedy or incompetent mechanics, I was forced to learn a bit about cars.
Plus I'm a nerd so it came natural. Now, I'm not sure if it's the beers but I'm beginning to think that I can magyver the a/c condenser to be a post turbo aux rad. WadyA think?
No prob, thanks to greedy or incompetent mechanics, I was forced to learn a bit about cars.
Plus I'm a nerd so it came natural. Now, I'm not sure if it's the beers but I'm beginning to think that I can magyver the a/c condenser to be a post turbo aux rad. WadyA think?
I'm probably the least qualified to answer that one. I would recommend research on that one.
09-13-2015, 04:37 PM
.
