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I want to put subs in my trunk but the rear strut bar is in the way. How poorly will my car handle with out the rear sway bar.? Is the there a sway bar relocation mod any ideas suggestions?
Last edited by Lariats&Ariats; 09-28-2015 at 06:27 PM.
Reason: I mistyped
^ That would be an aftermarket bar, since 8s don't have them from the factory. It shouldn't make too much difference--especially if you aren't tracking the car.
I want to put subs in my trunk but the rear strut bar is in the way. How poorly will my car handle with out the rear sway bar.? Is the there a sway bar relocation mod any ideas suggestions?
Strut bar does not equal sway bar...
Strut bar wont do much to the handling......sway bar will
So back, just "inspected" my engine bay with the UV light. Not good. Got a hose or two with coolant residue on it. I can only assume cause it was dark, those are leaks of coolant. Then...I saw what I didnt want to see. I checked my oil dip stick and it had the white milky chocolate milk residue on it. I whiped it on a cloth and UV light check it. It was coolant. Yikes! But the most puzzling part of it is, I went for an oil change the other day and this has been going on for a while. The oil when it came out of the car was dark brown/black. So could it be this is a small residue from something that, my engine is momentarily going to be ok? Btw I checked the gas cap and pulled it out and made sure it was clicked in. The engine light is still on. Autozone gave those codes earlier I posted. I am going back to the dealer. WTH? Any thoughts/comments please?
^ You probably have a small coolant leak right now. They tend to start small and grow over time from what I have read.
When the car gets good and hot, most of the moisture will evaporate out of the oil. So it is possible to see the milky look when driving short distances and have it go back to black after something like a 10 mile drive.
The gas cap could still be a problem. I have had problems in the past with aftermarket gas caps fitting and sealing properly. I usually suck it up and buy one from an online OEM dealer.
^ That would be an aftermarket bar, since 8s don't have them from the factory. It shouldn't make too much difference--especially if you aren't tracking the car.
ok great thats what i needed to know, is there a right up anywhere about this? Is it as simple as pull old engine out and put other one in?
There are two really good ones that cover full 4 port to 6 port conversion. Advanced Search for mckennar and rotaryresurrection conversion posts.
But I can't say I've anything specific to your situation. I doubt there is much to it all... Perhaps swapping the Bell housing / flywheel / clutch is the worst of it and I doubt that is that big of a deal if you're already this far into it.
^ You probably have a small coolant leak right now. They tend to start small and grow over time from what I have read.
When the car gets good and hot, most of the moisture will evaporate out of the oil. So it is possible to see the milky look when driving short distances and have it go back to black after something like a 10 mile drive.
The gas cap could still be a problem. I have had problems in the past with aftermarket gas caps fitting and sealing properly. I usually suck it up and buy one from an online OEM dealer.
Idk, cause I UV lighted the dipstick and it definitely has some antifreeze on it. But we'll see dropping it off tomorrow. The gas cap you might be right. I wonder if I could return it. Going to call right now.
Last edited by mazdafan1892; 09-29-2015 at 04:32 PM.
Updates, well the radiator has to be replaced, the coolant reservoir and I think a few hoses. The dipstick thing was condensation. The only good news there. But anywhere from $900-$1000 bucks to fix. Yikes. Also got a new gas-cap. Drove the car this morning with the old gas cap. Jesus Christ the fumes were unbearable. I freaking was losing gas as I was driving. WTH? I think my mechanic didnt put back the fuel pump proper with the o-ring in the right spot. Mazda is checking on it. Can fuel leak out if the gas cap isnt secured but on? Thoughts?
You are in NY? ... bring them and the car over to eastern PA and a bunch of us would do it for basically free. (Pizza and beer is a good 'thank you' commodity)
No, you can't reasonably have gas spilling out of the tank if the gas cap has a failure in the sealing. Just evaporation through.
RIWWP is correct if you can do the work yourself or have friends who can help you. If not, and if you figure a $100 per hour shop rate, $1000 doesn't sound that far off to me for parts and labor. I don't have it in front of me, but I imagine the radiator books for 3 hours by itself.
How do you know the milky oil thing was just condensation--especially since the dipstick had dye on it? The only way to truly know that quickly is to pressure test the cooling system, and you can't do that with yours in the condition it is.
ok so i bought my 05 rx8 in december. loved it.
only recently have i been experiencing issues. first, if someone can tell me where the Purge Valve is that would be great. CEL came on and is diagnosed that i needed a new one. so location of the Purge Valve. Second and most recent, and so far the most nerve racking issue is.... well idk what it is:
when i took her to Auto Zone they tested the battery and said that it is shot and need a new one. cool, that's easy. the day before i went to get the new battery, all of my warning lights came on as i was driving: CEL, Battery, Oil, DSC, ABS, Power Steering, etc. The worst was the Power Steering cause it literally just stopped working. My thought was ok, maybe this is all electrical and i need to replace the battery. so i did.
Today i replaced it. lights still came on, nothing got better. in fact things got worse.
I don't know much about cars, so can SOMEONE please tell me anything that they might know about the situation?
You are in NY? ... bring them and the car over to eastern PA and a bunch of us would do it for basically free. (Pizza and beer is a good 'thank you' commodity)
No, you can't reasonably have gas spilling out of the tank if the gas cap has a failure in the sealing. Just evaporation through.
I knew they are over charging me. They made a big deal how they aren't charging me to look at it. What can I do? Its already pushed through.
RIWWP is correct if you can do the work yourself or have friends who can help you. If not, and if you figure a $100 per hour shop rate, $1000 doesn't sound that far off to me for parts and labor. I don't have it in front of me, but I imagine the radiator books for 3 hours by itself.
How do you know the milky oil thing was just condensation--especially since the dipstick had dye on it? The only way to truly know that quickly is to pressure test the cooling system, and you can't do that with yours in the condition it is.
I hda Mazda also UV dye check it. Check the pressure with a pressure test. Check for leaks, check the fuel pump is in correctly, check for fumes, reset the engine code which is easy on the obd reader, install a new gas cap first though.
ok so i bought my 05 rx8 in december. loved it.
only recently have i been experiencing issues. first, if someone can tell me where the Purge Valve is that would be great. CEL came on and is diagnosed that i needed a new one. so location of the Purge Valve. Second and most recent, and so far the most nerve racking issue is.... well idk what it is:
when i took her to Auto Zone they tested the battery and said that it is shot and need a new one. cool, that's easy. the day before i went to get the new battery, all of my warning lights came on as i was driving: CEL, Battery, Oil, DSC, ABS, Power Steering, etc. The worst was the Power Steering cause it literally just stopped working. My thought was ok, maybe this is all electrical and i need to replace the battery. so i did.
Today i replaced it. lights still came on, nothing got better. in fact things got worse.
I don't know much about cars, so can SOMEONE please tell me anything that they might know about the situation?
Have your alternator tested and check all of the grounds in the engine bay to make sure they are clean and tight.
I hda Mazda also UV dye check it. Check the pressure with a pressure test. Check for leaks, check the fuel pump is in correctly, check for fumes, reset the engine code which is easy on the obd reader, install a new gas cap first though.
I'm still confuzzled. Have they already replaced the radiator, coolant bottle, hoses, etc? And they pressure tested it afterwards, and it passed?
Again, if they did all that work and charged you $1000, that number is not out of line. Five hours labor and $500 in parts is about right.
OK guys - dumb question time - searched around the forums, maybe not in the correct spot...borrowed this pic from another post from a couple years ago... anyway, there's a vacuum line within circle 2 in this pic. What the heck is it for and why in the world would mine be capped off on my car? Bought it used and it was like that when I bought it. It's capped off right where the white coupler is near the baffle on the intake hose..
OK guys - dumb question time - searched around the forums, maybe not in the correct spot...borrowed this pic from another post from a couple years ago... anyway, there's a vacuum line within circle 2 in this pic. What the heck is it for and why in the world would mine be capped off on my car? Bought it used and it was like that when I bought it. It's capped off right where the white coupler is near the baffle on the intake hose..
Tyler, that's for the VFAD, the "variable fresh air duct" flapper in front of the stock air cleaner.
Hey guys, I bought some pads 3 years ago and they finally worn down with my dd'ing and track days. They squeaked quite a bit and when I took it in, I was recommended to rotate the rotors and replace the pads. Did. Put new pads. Same exact pads since I liked how they gripped. Now the noise is unbearable. It is 10 times worse and happens at the slightest touch at ALL speeds. I also noticed the braking performance to be a bit less than my previous pads. Maybe like 20% less. I didn't do the install, I paid a brake shop to do it but I spoke to the guy before hand and I have a hard time believing he did anything wrong. Can I get some insight on why this is happening and how to fix it? Do I need to adjust something? Are the pads bad? It comes heavily from the front, and a bit less from the rear but it is still there. How do I get my braking performance back and the noise to stop? I'm the loudest guy on the track and the only one making noise while slowing down and it is embarrassing. lol
Edit: I broke in the pads per both instructions from Hawk (HB470N.643 and HB378N.565 HP Plus) and the mechanic before doing any serious driving. Forgot to include the pads I bought.
09-28-2015, 06:25 PM
