10KRPM

Aha, got it. That's exactly what happened, I broke it. No idea where the hose dropped to. So I assume I need a new radiator? Anyone ever thread/glue in a fitting?

Red line envy

Or you have done a good thing. And Now you have to buy an all aluminum rad. 😁

gwilliams6

In the long run, it will be a good thing to buy a new aluminum radiator. The latest model from Koyo is excellent.
Cheers

10KRPM

Thanks for putting a positive spin on my ham-handed wrenching!

Question - I'd love to get the car 2 miles down the road to a place I can work on it easier. If I put a sheet metal screw into the broken off hole, think I can drive it there? I don't care about losing some coolant on the drive, just obviously don't want to cause further problems.

10KRPM

Is this the one you are recommending?

Koyo radiator

Series2

Hi hopefully this works out but I’ve been a member forever now and I never figured out why it won’t let me create a post! My rx8 has sadly lost compression and I would like you guys to have first dips on the parts it’s a series 2 AT clean title on shell if you wanna just rip everything out, but also has bhr coils exhaust etc so dm or show me how to post!

10KRPM

Your post came through fine, maybe post the parts you want to sell, or the whole car, in the for sale section.

Series2

when I tried it said I don’t have permission for creating a post

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

You need to establish a post history before you get access to the For Sale area.

I think the current requirement is eight posts in other forums.

Series2

you mean like we are doing now? Or from scratch?

StealthTL

iTrader: (1)

Just random posts, stops people spamming the Sales area immediately after joining.
Used to be a common prob, hence the rule.

Lounge posts don't count....

(Even a comment on a show car counts!)

Judderman

Wellllll, for some time now, I’ve had an annoying noise from the rear. Sounded like it was coming from the middle - so i suspected the diff. Then over time I could hear another noise from the rear right on cornering, which i assumed was the bearing failing.
So I changed the rear right bearing, and both noises has now gone - much to my relief 👍

Strange thing is that now I have a completely different noise - which wasn’t there before coming form the rear left. Can’t really hear it when accelerating or braking, just when coasting. Seems much louder as the car gets slower. Kind of a scraping and some clicking / knocking.

Surely its coincidence and I haven’t ‘broken’ something in the diff by turning one wheel and not the other when changing the bearing…..

Any ideas??

Thanks

Red line envy

I'm assuming you had the brake caliper removed. Maybe the slides are jambed up causing pads to rub and grind on the rotor..... Just a thought

Judderman

Good thinking, but the new noises / issue is with the opposite side to the one i worked on.

Ill strip it all down and see if there’s anything obvious.

10KRPM

Speaking of obvious, but I figured I'd say this anyway - noise when coasting that goes away under acceleration and braking can be loose lug nuts. Ask me how I know. Might be worth jacking up the rear left and seeing if there is any wiggle, torque the nuts to be sure.

Judderman

Well, it turns out you’re right 10KRPM. Wow, never had that problem with any of the other cars I’ve ever owned !
Some more reading tells me that the lug nuts should be closer to 100 ft/lbs.

Tightened them up, and silence 👍

Thanks

Meat Head

Wasn’t there an update to torque specifications to 104 ft/lbs for wheel nuts?

10KRPM

Glad to hear you caught that. And can you mention to my wife that I was right about something?

10KRPM

Just a follow up that the new Koyo aluminum radiator is installed, new coolant overflow too, and all is well. No more low coolant light for no reason and hopefully I have a bit more cooling capacity with the new setup.

rot8ed_rx8

Is it possible to fit series one lights into an s2, one of mine are busted and I’m looking to change It

gwilliams6

yes you got the right one. Cheers

ciprianrx8

What is the reason the MAF sensor has an IAT sensor next to it, yet some turbo kits insist that you need to separate the IAT(post IC) and MAF(pre-turbo)?

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

My understanding (and someone correct if I am mistaken) is that on a forced induction setup, the charge air temp is important to monitor and how above a certain temp the timing should be adjusted to avoid detonation. The factory setup incorporates the MAF and IAT sensors into one nice and neat unit, which is perfectly fine for the engine as-is since it isn't running forced induction. Often people will not incorporate a separate IAT sensor when going FI, and you could technically get away with that (I did for quite some time) however it IS advised to install a IAT sensor post-IC in order to get accurate measurements for tuning purposes.

longpath

iTrader: (1)

I’d originally upgraded to the Griffin Racing Radiator ordered through Black Halo Racing and used it for many years before either salt corrosion, a kicked up rock, or both forced me to replace it. The replacement was labeled Champion Racing, though Champion says they never made an RX8 radiator. In any event, it was ordered through TREX Performance, and was installed by a local mechanic.

After having the car for 17 years, I finally decided to order a RacingBeat REvi intake and scoop. Unfortunately supply chain issues stalled it shipping for about six months, forcing me to wait until things calmed down at work after the Olympics.

I finally get the MAF & grommets swapped over to the REvi, and have a day off to work on it, only to discover that the top tank of the radiator is slightly occluding the bottom of the front bulkhead pass through for the intake. I called Racing Beat to see if they had heard of this or had any suggestions. They said the top tank might be too large, or it’s installation might be off in its adjustment.

My gut take on this is that this radiator is sufficiently taller than OEM to be incompatible with my intended set up, as I really don’t see an opportunity to adjust anything to get the clearance the REvi needs.

Yes, I tried searching before posting; but nothing that came up seemed to be even close to my situation.

Moderators: my apologies if this is not a proper place for this; but after half an hour of searching, I am still not sure where to post this. Please feel free to move it to wherever you deem appropriate.



View from the front of the forward bulkhead, looking rearward, showing the radiator’s occlusion.

View from the engine bay, looking forward through the air intake pass through of the forward bulkhead.

From the engine bay, looking down at the top of the radiator.

From the engine bay side of the forward bulkhead, looking down at the upper mount of the radiator.J

Bottom of the radiator, showing one of the lower mounts of the radiator.

Same lower radiator mount from a slightly different angle. Is the radiator not seated properly?

Bottom radiator mount, showing the bracket.

Upper mount, forward of the forward bulkhead.

jcbrx8

Good question. I agree w/ Ricky, and to just add a bit more...

The combustion process will follow the Ideal Gas Law (PV=nRT), where

• P=pressure ( measurable)
• V-volume (volume combustion chamber)
• n= amount of substance (???)
• R-gas constant (constant)
• T=temperature (measurable)

Rearranging the equation to solve for the amount of air entering the chamber (n) we get: n=(PV)/(RT). The ECU uses this law /equation to do its primary job: calculate the changing amount of air being ingested into the combustion chamber. As Ricky said ... since a N/A vehicle doesn't have a turbo / super-charger heating the air between the MAF and throttle body, and perhaps an IC somewhat cooling it back down; it's fine to integrate the MAF and IAT at the same point in the process.

However, when you introduce a turbo / super -charger, and perhaps IC, into the equation; the temperature at the throttle body will be significantly elevated over what's seen at the MAF (particularly on hot days and after WOT runs) . One can easily see the advantage in moving the IAT to just before the throttle body, i.e. post turbo/charger and IC, to provide the ECU accurate temp so that it can most accurately calculate quantity of air, and achieve desired timing and AFR. All is not lost in the absence of an IAT at the throttle body. This c/b somewhat mitigated by enlarging "safety buffers" when tuning.

I have a separate, additional IAT plumbed at my throttle body, but it is not wired into the ECU harness, i.e. the ECU still reads the integrated IAT at the MAF. But it does serve to tell *me* when IATs are significantly elevated above ambient and that "I should cool it."