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Parasitic draw is current, not voltage, so not finding it that way, while the car is running, is not surprising. The alternator raising your voltage is kinda weird though, the voltage regulator is supposed to keep it in spec. Does the new alt have a vreg like the original?
When changing the ESS (crankshaft sensor), you need to reset the profile memory for it to read well (on an S1 you step on the brake 20 times in 8 seconds).
Are you measuring voltage at the battery or through the ECU? Because P0562 is supposed to be set under 10v at the ECU... I don't know how your ECU would see significantly different voltage than the battery, but if the ECU actually reports 14V and still sets P0562 that's super weird. Is that the right code? Not a typo?
Parasitic draw is current, not voltage, so not finding it that way, while the car is running, is not surprising. The alternator raising your voltage is kinda weird though, the voltage regulator is supposed to keep it in spec. Does the new alt have a vreg like the original?
When changing the ESS (crankshaft sensor), you need to reset the profile memory for it to read well (on an S1 you step on the brake 20 times in 8 seconds).
Are you measuring voltage at the battery or through the ECU? Because P0562 is supposed to be set under 10v at the ECU... I don't know how your ECU would see significantly different voltage than the battery, but if the ECU actually reports 14V and still sets P0562 that's super weird. Is that the right code? Not a typo?
Yes correct code nobody can figure this out and I've replaced damn near everything and checked every ground connection so have a few other mechanics it has to be a wire somewhere that's frayed that I'm not seeing that's all I can think of but the only wires I haven't touched are in the engine harness.
They tested the ecu at the dealership not sure how much I trust them. so voltage regulator and test each wire in the pcm connections is my last bet I am assuming.
The new alt is a 200 Amp and voltage increases as I travel when idle it goes back to the 14
Last edited by beyondeffects; 04-09-2021 at 09:31 AM.
Anyone know if non heated cloth seat Rx8's have the connectors for the heated seat switches in the center console?
I have a lead on a 70kmile low compression car (soon to be 3rd car), but it does not have heated seats. Funny enough it actually has the sat nav, which I will be removing for a custom arduino+raspi android auto kit I am working on. Long term plans are in place to run my current rx8 into a rusted heap while setting #3 up with a rew.
Highest on wot was 17.1
I have versatune logs no idea how to upload them
That's very not OK. Your voltage regulator is either absent or not working. It will also kill the battery over time, it's not designed to take 17V. None of the electrical system is designed to go that high, so it could be throwing a bunch of sensors off.
That's very not OK. Your voltage regulator is either absent or not working. It will also kill the battery over time, it's not designed to take 17V. None of the electrical system is designed to go that high, so it could be throwing a bunch of sensors off.
I triple grounded the car 2 to each ground on top of the alternator upgrade with a deep cycle yellow top maybe I went to far upgrading the charging system but the error was there before all of that and it barely held 13v so the problem wasn't with the charging system at all since the voltages were close to normal and now they are way above normal.
I do recall when it first started was with a fuel sensor error that went away but since it never came back don't recall what it was I also need to replace the sending unit
The generator voltage is governed by the PCM, so there is no traditional VR like a traditional alternator setup.
A lot of high output alternators have a tendency to crap out and don't work properly depending on who builds them and what they actually do to them.
Of you have a functioning OEM generator I would go back to that to troubleshoot. Otherwise you have introduced a bunch of variables that will be difficult to figure out.
The PCM control scheme is a bit strange. I have seen values that I couldn't really explain at times in data logs...
please make sure the nut on the output wire (under the domed gray protection cap on top rear of the alternator as shown below) is tightened down well
In the past the nut being loose has resulted in the alternator being driven to higher output by the pcm because it’s seeing a lower voltage due to the poor/inconsistent connection and then that wire overheats and burns up. There are several threads on here where it happened. Not sure if it pertains to this situation or not.
The generator voltage is governed by the PCM, so there is no traditional VR like a traditional alternator setup.
A lot of high output alternators have a tendency to crap out and don't work properly depending on who builds them and what they actually do to them.
Of you have a functioning OEM generator I would go back to that to troubleshoot. Otherwise you have introduced a bunch of variables that will be difficult to figure out.
The PCM control scheme is a bit strange. I have seen values that I couldn't really explain at times in data logs...
Ok
Petit street ported engine 3mm seals rx7 rotors
Oil catch can
Bar ignition(wires coils plugs)just changed again
Oil changed 500 miles ago
Aem intake
Yellow top deep cycle
200 Amp alternator rebuilt with voltage regulator
Bhr midpipe
Hks single tip exhaust
2 to 1 ground hks system
Aluminum mishimoto reservoir
Upgraded radiator
Glowshat gauges yes its a typo
Remedy water pump
Thermostat
Parts replaced
Maf sensor
02 sensors
Throttle body
Battery harness
Coolant sensor
Ac board was fried for system
Compressor
Condenser
Wanted ac...
Pioneer system
Airbag recall
Upgraded brakes
Fuses except 3 going to get those in a few days
Fuel pump
Broke the fuel sending unit have to replace
Car issues
Wrattling sound from exhaust when engine bogs every so often
Idle fluctuates goes low at random
P0562
Went through charging system and grounds and replaced most of what should be causing it was there with old alternator as well
Lights would dim when rolling down windows stopped with new alternator
Xenon upgraded lights
Rear trunk light
Inside fuses
Cabin filter
Middle dash console
Carbon fiber inserts in middle panel
New floor mats
Clutch pedal replaced
Going to get ralco pulleys and act streetlight flywheel after I fix this code and add a new supercharger someone is working on can't say who but they are from the forums.
Last edited by beyondeffects; 04-10-2021 at 09:19 PM.
Ok
Petit street ported engine 3mm seals rx7 rotors
Oil catch can
Bar ignition(wires coils plugs)just changed again
Oil changed 500 miles ago
Aem intake
Yellow top deep cycle
200 Amp alternator rebuilt with voltage regulator
Bhr midpipe
Hks single tip exhaust
2 to 1 ground hks system
Aluminum mishimoto reservoir
Upgraded radiator
Glowshat gauges yes its a typo
Remedy water pump
Thermostat
Parts replaced
Maf sensor
02 sensors
Throttle body
Battery harness
Coolant sensor
Ac board was fried for system
Compressor
Condenser
Wanted ac...
Pioneer system
Airbag recall
Upgraded brakes
Fuses except 3 going to get those in a few days
Fuel pump
Broke the fuel sending unit have to replace
Car issues
Wrattling sound from exhaust when engine bogs every so often
Idle fluctuates goes low at random
P0562
Went through charging system and grounds and replaced most of what should be causing it was there with old alternator as well
Lights would dim when rolling down windows stopped with new alternator
Xenon upgraded lights
Rear trunk light
Inside fuses
Cabin filter
Middle dash console
Carbon fiber inserts in middle panel
New floor mats
Clutch pedal replaced
Going to get ralco pulleys and act streetlight flywheel after I fix this code and add a new supercharger someone is working on can't say who but they are from the forums.
Short term fuel trim secondary sensor Short term fuel trimp primary sensor Mass air flow voltage Maf lb/min Long term fuel trim Intake air temp Ignition trailing Ignition leading Iac Engine coolant temp Control module voltage Cat temp no cat Absolute load
I think maybe you ought to start your own troubleshooting thread. There's a lot here. Half the graphs don't show the scale or axis.
What rpm is that 1.7lb/min reading at? Is that at idle? That's *way* too high if so, and useless if not at idle. The short term fuel trim being negative is a bit of a clue, but need to see the long term trim.
and you don’t have any tuning on it for this change yet?
now I didn’t go through every post and am maybe missing the boat or maybe you left something out, but based on the above it probably just needs to have the idle increased.
I think maybe you ought to start your own troubleshooting thread. There's a lot here. Half the graphs don't show the scale or axis.
What rpm is that 1.7lb/min reading at? Is that at idle? That's *way* too high if so, and useless if not at idle. The short term fuel trim being negative is a bit of a clue, but need to see the long term trim.
I tried to and it said I don't have access to start a thread so...I posted here and I also upped the idle by 100 on the tune map
Maybe just pay someone to tune it but the drop in idle is felt in the Powerband when I drive it like power is lost even though it doesn't sound like it.
Rx8 vs a gt 5.0 after 3rd gear by 6 cars...
I'm not sure if it's supposed to go that fast or if the driver just sucked but we did 4 pulls no difference...and my car seems to run rich I smell the fuel maybe from midpipe but the exhaust isn't the carbon color more red orange so burning more fuel which I can tell by looking at the fuel vs the mileage I'd say...18 hwy ish
Last edited by beyondeffects; 04-10-2021 at 11:10 PM.
do you understand the actual difference between those rotors and the RX8 rotors?
I know Pettit adds in a custom cut-off seal, but it’s still going to be leaking exhaust gasses into the intake chamber due to the different placement of the side seals and other features that were designed into the Renesis rotors to minimize it. I can see that affecting idle and it may need to be a lot higher than that imo. A bridgeport might be up around 1500 rpm as one reference point.
I’m not sure if the blower you mentioned is already installed?
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Anyone know if non heated cloth seat Rx8's have the connectors for the heated seat switches in the center console?
I have a lead on a 70kmile low compression car (soon to be 3rd car), but it does not have heated seats. Funny enough it actually has the sat nav, which I will be removing for a custom arduino+raspi android auto kit I am working on. Long term plans are in place to run my current rx8 into a rusted heap while setting #3 up with a rew.
I don't see and connections for the heated seats. Yes I am fixing the hole lol.
do you understand the actual difference between those rotors and the RX8 rotors?
I know Pettit adds in a custom cut-off seal, but it’s still going to be leaking exhaust gasses into the intake chamber due to the different placement of the side seals and other features that were designed into the Renesis rotors to minimize it. I can see that affecting idle and it may need to be a lot higher than that imo. A bridgeport might be up around 1500 rpm as one reference point.
I’m not sure if the blower you mentioned is already installed?
.
.
No it's not installed hes still fabricating the build.
So my idle maybe to low bogs down to compensate the lack of fuel and readjusts...that makes sense...but the code is what's killing me I started a post on it allowed me to.
No it's not installed hes still fabricating the build.
So my idle maybe to low bogs down to compensate the lack of fuel and readjusts...that makes sense...but the code is what's killing me I started a post on it allowed me to.
meant to look that up, but was distracted.
posted the info in the thread you started in the S1 Tech forum area; in short, P0562 has nothing to do with any sensor. It’s the battery power supply wiring to the pcm that it then also monitors the voltage of. So you most likely have a power/wiring issue somewhere from the battery ground point on the chassis and the pcm terminal. Or worst case a bad pcm node or other internal issue there, but that’s the least likely imo.
I posted all the troubleshooting information over in the other thread you started.
.
posted the info in the thread you started in the S1 Tech forum area; in short, P0562 has nothing to do with any sensor. It’s the battery power supply wiring to the pcm that it then also monitors the voltage of. So you most likely have a power/wiring issue somewhere from the battery ground point on the chassis and the pcm terminal. Or worst case a bad pcm node or other internal issue there, but that’s the least likely imo.
I posted all the troubleshooting information over in the other thread you started.
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THANK YOU SO MUCH
I couldnt find that anywhere online now I have something to help me find the problem Id buy you beer if i could.
We took the harness off and are rewiring it so should be back to normal lol I'm lazy so it'll take a good 2 weeks whenever I feel the urge to finish it but I'm shopping accessories in the meantime
04-09-2021, 08:54 AM
, the 1 wire is pinched somewhere in the harness.
