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Cant comment on that pair specifically, but I personally have a set of these from Northern Tool. Best of both worlds - ratcheting but also has a pin for locking. A set of 4 comes in much cheaper than the ones you're looking at. Only drawback is it appears to be backordered, and you can expect a good $15+ for shipping most likely.
Thanks for the suggestion. I have saved these for future reference. I do like the ratchet and extra locking pin. If they are in stock when Im ready to buy I will consider them.
well you asked; and about jack stands no less, and then decided on your own in a different direction
my response to that might involve using either the d-word or sarcasm. Therefore, I’m at a loss of words.
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I haven't decided anything, I'm trying to gather data/opinions from people more experienced than myself to make an informed decision. I appreciate you leaving your suggestion. You mentioned in a previous comment you weren't a fan of the ones I listed from Amazon. I was curious as to what your thought process was in saying you didn't like them. What dont you like about them? Isn't this the best place to ask a dumb question? I posted on this thread for a reason...
I was searching through my state's guidelines for collector registration requirements (NJ MVC: https://www.state.nj.us/mvc/vehiclet...collectveh.htm), and I was wondering if anyone else has registered their RX-8 as a "collector"? I feel as though the RX-8 could meet the definition/guidelines here, which would help with state inspections, etc. Has anyone else done this and if so, whom/which organization or club did they contact for collector vehicle approval letter? I am posting this question in the dumb question thread, because this may be a dumb question or one that has already been addressed in another thread (which I haven't found). Regards.
i have no idea what kind of nonsense a state like dirty jerz has (im sure its not good) but two of my friends here in pa got classic tags for their 04 rx8s. iirc it changes yearly inspection/reg to every other year and does away with emisssions if driven under a certain # of miles
Wouldn't compressed air into the intake manifold brake booster port or a shop vac attached to the tail pipe to draw some extra air through the chambers help clear floods?
It's hard to say it won't do anything, but it may not do much. The engine is a bigger air pump than either of those and those methods won't really be able to introduce extra air to the chamber. The problem is the air passing over the spark plugs is compressed (near top dead center), so it's not super interested in picking up fuel vapours. So you actually want less air in the intake to rarify the intake charge and make it more likely to evaporate fuel. For the tail pipe vacuum idea, it'll just make the vacuum miserable because it can't suck air faster than exhaust ports can open, and even then there is no direct path to the spark plugs.
I was searching through my state's guidelines for collector registration requirements (NJ MVC: https://www.state.nj.us/mvc/vehiclet...collectveh.htm), and I was wondering if anyone else has registered their RX-8 as a "collector"? I feel as though the RX-8 could meet the definition/guidelines here, which would help with state inspections, etc. Has anyone else done this and if so, whom/which organization or club did they contact for collector vehicle approval letter? I am posting this question in the dumb question thread, because this may be a dumb question or one that has already been addressed in another thread (which I haven't found). Regards.
all the information was on the website/links. The one thing is that they require the vehicle to be of some limited existence, which might require it to be a Shinka etc. type model, but maybe a limited color etc might apply. You will most likely need to discuss it with someone at the local DMV office. The other thing is it said it still had to meet all the requirements for the year it was built, which seems to imply emissions etc.
so not seeing how that will help with state indpectiins
In my head, I'm imagining like a big pumpkin chucker pneumatic air dump from a 5gallon air-filler compressor tank. Guess I'd need to figure out CFM @ 200rpm vs what's possible with 100psi through a 3/8ths hose..
But that got me wondering - flooding is too rich to light off with any force - what if you were to add oxygen through another means? Would a shot of nitrous help? Or do the N20 bonds need to be broken by fire? I've got a small oxy-acetylene rig here...
Originally Posted by Loki
It's hard to say it won't do anything, but it may not do much. The engine is a bigger air pump than either of those and those methods won't really be able to introduce extra air to the chamber. The problem is the air passing over the spark plugs is compressed (near top dead center), so it's not super interested in picking up fuel vapours. So you actually want less air in the intake to rarify the intake charge and make it more likely to evaporate fuel. For the tail pipe vacuum idea, it'll just make the vacuum miserable because it can't suck air faster than exhaust ports can open, and even then there is no direct path to the spark plugs.
But that got me wondering - flooding is too rich to light off with any force - what if you were to add oxygen through another means? Would a shot of nitrous help? Or do the N20 bonds need to be broken by fire? I've got a small oxy-acetylene rig here...
No-start due to flooding is actually spark plug fouling. It's not just rich, it's wet and no spark can happen.
I’ve been having some problems with my rx8. I have a intermittent code for throttle actuator position sensor, but sometimes itll read pedal position sensor... it will drive great but once I pull up to a stop sign or light and shift to neutral the car will drop rpm and then stall. I’ve checked the connectors, throttle body, and pedal but they all test fine. Hopefully someone can help with this issue! Thanks in advance
I’ve been having some problems with my rx8. I have a intermittent code for throttle actuator position sensor, but sometimes itll read pedal position sensor... it will drive great but once I pull up to a stop sign or light and shift to neutral the car will drop rpm and then stall. I’ve checked the connectors, throttle body, and pedal but they all test fine. Hopefully someone can help with this issue! Thanks in advance
I recently got an '04 6spd MT, with a blown (no compression) motor but it came with a second salvage motor. The seller only ever referred to it as a "JDM motor." I've started to tear it down, and will finish doing so today, as the previous owner stated it was just siezed and probably needs to be disassembled/reassembled.
Just me being a bit paranoid, I don't know where this thing came from. It was obviously cut out of a donor RX8, as there were cables cut off after the plug (wiring harness/rat nest is all intact) and the coolant/oil/fuel lines were all cut. But I want to try to find out if it was a manual or automatic motor. I have the serial number that's stamped into the peripheral housing next to where it says "13B MAZDA" but I am having trouble finding any kind of mazda engine decoder chart online.
Am I able to tell anything from that engine number before I throw it into a car?
I am new to owning a 8 so gop easy on me! I bought one last week, only 31k on the clock, since getting it back I've realised the cat has gone, which is fine I was planning on decatting it anyway. However the past day I have noticed a small amount of smoke coming from the exhaust whilst I am in idle and liquid coming from the tips. Is this down to the cat or something else? I have attached a video of it.
Thanks in advance,
Nick.
Ok so the fuel pump wasn't the issue or the fuel leveling sensor come to find out bad barometric sensor and bad maf sensor took apart the uim redid the vacuum lines and oil line did a return line with catch can a grounded the car 3 to 1 grounding points idle fixed to a point and found my cts is malfunctioning and ssv sticking I bought an old lower intake manifold and chem dipped the valve looks brand new the bushing on the arm looks worn its the rubber one not the metal one trying to find a replacement bought a new cts matched part numbers exactly not it just rough idles when warm but those last two should fix it tried redlining to burn the carbon out didnt help much so hopefully tomorrow mods are petit street port 3mm seals 7 rotors bhr midpipe rb headers hks exhaust single tip catch can grounding wires aem cai verstuned I actually got my ac running with the metra kit as well had to solder the connections on the back of the head board no more power shortages I think I went through the entire...car just about
The work in progress of restoring her
Ok so I got her running and I have a voltage drop in the ignition it fires fine when driving but fluctuates on idle. I've swapped the coils to see if anything changed same issue so not the coils themselves checked wires all fine and put new spark plugs. Bought a harness for the battery and replaced the old added a 200 Amp alternator with a smaller pulley lights never dim and battery is constant 14 to 17 under load or idle charging system is very strong.
Now everything points to the engine harness. I've taken apart everything again....and I can't find any frayed wires everything seems sealed and no connecting points that are touching. I searched for rx8 wiring harness diagram and they all show me the battery does anyone have the engine one. Please and thank you. Don't want someone to waste time on a diy on me just need the diagram I've looked in the service manual I have as well no bueno.
Car runs perfect only issue now is this p0562 code it turns on after I start the car for 3 seconds I was told 02 sensor not sure though.
I recently got an '04 6spd MT, with a blown (no compression) motor but it came with a second salvage motor. The seller only ever referred to it as a "JDM motor." I've started to tear it down, and will finish doing so today, as the previous owner stated it was just siezed and probably needs to be disassembled/reassembled.
Just me being a bit paranoid, I don't know where this thing came from. It was obviously cut out of a donor RX8, as there were cables cut off after the plug (wiring harness/rat nest is all intact) and the coolant/oil/fuel lines were all cut. But I want to try to find out if it was a manual or automatic motor. I have the serial number that's stamped into the peripheral housing next to where it says "13B MAZDA" but I am having trouble finding any kind of mazda engine decoder chart online.
Am I able to tell anything from that engine number before I throw it into a car?
Check how many intake runners it has. 4 = 4-port low power automatic engine. 6 = 6-port high power engine that can be in either an 2007+ auto or manual. Also maybe make sure it's the same generation of engine as the car you're putting this into (S1 vs S2). If you post pics we could probably help identify it. The numbers aren't going to be super useful.
I am new to owning a 8 so gop easy on me! I bought one last week, only 31k on the clock, since getting it back I've realised the cat has gone, which is fine I was planning on decatting it anyway. However the past day I have noticed a small amount of smoke coming from the exhaust whilst I am in idle and liquid coming from the tips. Is this down to the cat or something else? I have attached a video of it.
Thanks in advance,
Nick.
If you think the cat has failed, stop driving the car or it will kill the engine in short order. What indicates the cat has gone?
As for the smoke, it looks like condensation. Does this happen only when cold or does it still steam when the car is fully warmed up?
Car runs perfect only issue now is this p0562 code it turns on after I start the car for 3 seconds I was told 02 sensor not sure though.
P0562 is the system voltage being too low. Nothing to do with the O2. Poor battery connection? Poor grounds? Just a bad battery?
Apparently this is set when the main voltage is less than 10 volts, so check what voltage your battery is making when the car is off, and what the system voltage is when it's running.
Potentially an alternator vreg problem, but long story short, start with the voltage at the battery and if that's normal (12.8-14v), work deeper into the electrical system.
I am not really sure where to ask this, but I searched the forum and nobody had the same problem as me with sheer number of warning lights illuminated.. The traction control, power steering, parking brake light, and intermittently, battery light came on today in my '04. I would also intermittently lose power steering, but everything else in the car worked...though I turned all accessories off on the limp home with hazard lights flashing.
I have had wiring in the brake lights repaired, from 3rd brake light issue, and will check out the lights during the day tomorrow. I haven't really had any starting issues, but I was going to start with the battery first. Has anyone else encountered this?
Not on an RX-8, but when I test drove the C7 Corvette I bought a year ago, the car had all sorts of warning lights flashing and freaking out with a weak battery for sitting around too long. It's something a lot of newr cars do when the battery is dying or the connection is poor, and I think the RX-8 is no exception.
P0562 is the system voltage being too low. Nothing to do with the O2. Poor battery connection? Poor grounds? Just a bad battery?
Apparently this is set when the main voltage is less than 10 volts, so check what voltage your battery is making when the car is off, and what the system voltage is when it's running.
Potentially an alternator vreg problem, but long story short, start with the voltage at the battery and if that's normal (12.8-14v), work deeper into the electrical system.
Ok here is the weird part.
I bought a new battery voltage is fine 14. I checked the alternator connections and voltage every thing is fine. Then i bought a new alternator higher amp, voltage went up slightly and more when driving. No parasitic drop when driving I have a system. Bought a new battery harness. The one that connects the battery alt starter ect. Still no voltage drop. Now on the computer i see 0 parasitic draw on the voltage.
I removed the room fuse and the car runs fine now with the reset. But every now and then it does the weird misfire thing usually on cold start. p0562.
The crankshaft position sensor code is on but I bought a brand new one. Cleaned it and it goes away inspected it and its still clean but the code still pops up.
So i did some reading and it said to leave the key to acc position for 5 seconds then on and start the engine.
When i do this the check engine light dissapears for 3 to 5 seconds when starting the car sounds perfectly normal then back to p0562.
I'm not sure where in the electrical it could be. I paid the dealership to do an electrical diag, but the guy there is so incompetent i never really want to go back....he said he did a scan but found nothing wrong with the car. Obviously there is something in there faulty.
03-15-2021, 07:36 PM
