Brettus

iTrader: (2)

This is actually very common issue with aftermarket radiators (despite there being no mention of it) . With mine , I removed the upper rubber mounts and modified the lower mounts to drop the radiator down enough.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

It's actually not essential to move it IMO ...but it is preferable.
The maf sensor doesn't actually need the temp sensor to calculate mass air flow as this is taken care of by the sensor itself. Yes............... I have researched and tested this.

longpath

iTrader: (1)

Would you object terribly if I were to ask for pics of your modified lower mounts? I had been considering switching either to a Koyo radiator which seems to have a top tank shaped more like the OEM, or even (cringe) switching back to OEM; but modifying the mounts to accommodate my existing aluminum radiator seems like a vastly better option than either replacement strategy.

I'm looking through the DIYs to see if there's anything that might give me a hint as to how to carry out your suggested remedy.
Unfortunately, it's been a very long time since I swapped out a radiator (around 3 decades ago, on a FB RX-7), so I'm having some challenges visualizing what I need to change.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

Pretty sure I just removed top rubber mounts altogether and bolted it straight to the chassis then reduced the thickness of the rubber grommet flange at the bottom. Didn't modify the steel lower mount so pics wont show anything.
Another very common mistake people make is not properly fitting the fans to the radiator ....leaving a gap for air to be sucked in from the side vs through the core.
And then they complete the fiasco l by neglecting to add the foam strip underneath and to the sides which prevents air from bypassing the radiator.
It's no small wonder that so many 8s have cooling problems!

Meat Head

I don’t have plates to look at so I wanted to clarify a couple things. From reading a bunch of threads I gather the exhaust opening timing is identical for the mid plate and end plates - true? Also, are the exhaust paths the same length mid plate compared to end plates?

Meat Head

More to my question about exhaust ports. Asking hers since I don’t want to clutter Teams header theory thread. Does the smaller pulse from the siamese ports come at a different time (other than what would obviously happen due to placement) because of longer or shorter path? Am I assuming correctly this pulse is there to help draw out the larger volume pulse from the end plates (and the opposite)?

Just trying to understand more since I was going to pursue having a log header made (I suck at welding). Explaining why I want something done to a fabricator would be easier if my story isn’t complete BS.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Try Team's thread anyway.
That's what the thread is for, at least I think that's what it's for.
Doesn't hurt to ask.

Ian145

I recently acquired and began modding an S1 RX8 and like many I'm trying to figure out the best recipe for cooling mods to be able to do the occasional track day without worrying too much. Figured this was a good spot to ask to avoid yet another general cooling thread.

So far, I've installed a Koyo 36mm rad (recommended by BHR) also with a coolant flush (oem fl22) and just installed a water temp guage. Just yesterday while on the highway going over a fairly steep mountain pass with 95 degree ambient temps (70mph in 5th gear) I saw a peak of 226 degrees F with the sensor in the upper radiator hose (mishimoto 38mm adapter). This seems like a bit too high of a temp for semi normal driving. I imagine the oem waterpump is still good as the car only has 36k miles on the dash.

This car is my daily, though I do work from home. I'm just hoping to be able to do 3-4 track days a year but would like to be able to go flat out for a 20 min session.

Looking on Mazmart it seems the remedy lower temp thermostat and remedy water pump are no longer available? I guess the Mishimoto 169 degree t stat should suffice but seems like there's no other alternative for the water pump other than replacing the stock unit for good measure?

What else should I be looking at? Does an aftermarket intake really improve flow by freeing up a path behind the radiator? I like the design of the stock intake/filter but maybe it's worth the trade off? So far oil Temps don't seem like as much of a worry compared to water temps. Curious if there's anything I'm missing or any good solutions. I was under the impression that with an aluminum radiator and an up to date maintenence schedule on the cooling system the car could handle the occasional track day without too much work, but I may have been mistaken.

Shaozhou Zhang

In this case, or most case, a lower temp thermalstat will not help you lower your temps. They only give you a bit more headroom. Unless your current thermalstat has failed closed.
Make sure you have all the ducting work done in front of the radiator, the undertray, the foam at the bottom of the radiator, extra foam to seal the leaks to force all air travel through the radiator.
AEM intake + jack up the back of hood + remove weather strip can alleviate this if you do not want to have a hood vent.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...on-mod-123524/

gwilliams6

Give the folks at Rotary Performance in Garland, Texas a call. They can suggest a few good solutions. 972 530 3535

Judderman

Hi everyone, I’m in the process of painting the front subframe and de-rusting stuff.

My question is, when I re attach the front stabiliser bar (anti roll bar) to the subframe, should it be at any particular position / angle before I tighten it up?

Thanks

Red line envy

I think the end links will determine that.

Judderman

Thanks, that makes sense. Just wasn’t sure if its initial position before attaching the links gave it / them a preload for it to work correctly.

TKJimmy

Hi guys, question here. What aftermarket sites are still alive for the Eight?

Meat Head

So far I’ve been using BHR (Black Halo Racing), Racing Beat, Mazmart, and one I haven’t used yet RX8 Performance. All but the last site have been good to deal with (no interaction with RX8 Performance).

marcx987

not really a dumb question but looking for info for guages that i can connect to my phone along side of torque pro for monitoring odbII info. I plan to then mount a 7in usb c touch screen or tablet into a modded nav hood. So when i get in the car i dock the phone and can read all the car info on the screen.

wanted to add guages for :
Oil Temp
Oil Pressure
Water Temp
Fuel pressure

If i can route them via bluetooth along side of info pulled via obd II in the torque pro app,.A solution would be apreciated.

Judderman

Well for the last few days I’ve been rustproofing the front subframe and making things look a bit nicer under there.

I do have a question though - the 4 long ‘bolts’ (pointed at the end) that are attached to the chassis that the subframe bolts onto - what torque setting are they?? I seem to have every other torque setting apart from them. All the diagrams don’t seem to reference them.

Thanks in advance

SmallMonk22

I've had my 2004 Rx8 for several months now, and have pretty recently installed an after market cold air intake and exhaust system. When I drive hard for a bit it seems that I start to hear a strange knocking or pinging noise and the acceleration seems very boggy or sluggish. I'm thinking it could potentially be something to do with the spark plugs or fuel filter, or maybe the compression? Does anyone else have this problem or know why this is happening? I am quite concerned that I could be causing significant damage to my car if I do not find and fix the issue.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

What intake did you install? Most intakes for these cars are a downgrade and some cause problems. Is the check engine light on or flashing and are there any codes?

Does the issue occur only at full throttle or all the time? At a specific rpm? Are you running premium octane gas?

Yes, knock/ping could destroy your engine. Usually the ECU can detect it early and react but you're not supposed to experience it.

SmallMonk22

I just installed one I got off eBay, a classic looking red one. And there are no engine lights.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Uhm ok. So remove the ebay garbage and go back to stock
and see if it's OK after that. The stock intake is nearly ideal AEM /MazdaSpeed/RacingBeat are a tiny improvement, everything else is a power loss at best, problems at worst.

SmallMonk22

That's probably a good idea lmao. And if that doesn't help I think I will try to replace my spark plugs and clean my mass airflow sensor next.

Red line envy

As you all know my 8 is in limp mode now. (big sad). Now for the past 3 years I have had the Omp blocked off from engine( but still mounted in it's place with sandwich plate to block from engine). While diagnosing this I relocated the Omp up and off of the engine and mounted it independently. (Instead of mounting to engine with block plate) My question is does the Omp need to be closed up on the face that meet the engine or can it just be open?

Meat Head

Turns out my earlier post was submitted during a major brain fart. The read more post less response is perfect here. I had pm’d Team a while back and received a full answer. Sometimes I drive myself crazy.

gwilliams6

SmallMonk22:
Listen to Loki. he knows his stuff.
My 2008 40th Anniversary RX8 has the Mazdaspeed CAI, it is the exact same as the AEM. Those and the Racing Beat are the only good ones for your RX8.
Any 2004 RX8 if it still has the original engine, cat and exhaust is past due for some TLC.
Change the spark plugs and coils if they are older than 30K miles. See if that is any improvement. BHR aftermarket coil packs can last much much longer. IMHO worth the price.
Make sure you have had all the Mazda recalls done including the First Gen OEM fuel pump recall/upgrade work done. Mazda recall work is free at a Mazda dealer, no expiration on that. You can go to Mazda USA site, plug in your vehicle's vin number and it will tell you what recalls were done or still need to be done, as every dealer has to log that recall work into the system for any RX8, any year.
Do a clean of the MAF, easily done yourself.
Proper Fuel , air , spark are the three keys to ignition.

If that doesn't help, you may need to check and see if you have a clogged cat, they do wear out, break down and get clogged over time. A clogged cat can quickly lead to cascading things and a dead engine.

It may be also time to have compression test on that engine, but try these other things first, OK
Get back to us, and ALWAYS listen to top folks here like Loki.

Engine Power Loss

• chokes as revs increase
  • O2 sensor failure (too rich)
  • MAF failure
  • MAF disconnected
  • e-shaft sensor fouled
  • accessory belt fraying
• high end power loss (hard fuel cut)
  • Rev limit reached
• high end power loss (jerky and stumbling)
  • Ignition failure
  • fuel pressure loss
  • e-shaft sensor fouled
• high end power loss (smooth)
  • Catalytic converter clog
  • air filter clog
• low end power loss (smooth)
  • Engine compression loss
• low end power loss (stumbles)
  • Ignition failure
  • front O2 sensor failure
• revs slowly but smoothly
  • O2 sensor failure (too lean)
  • catalytic converter clog
  • air filter clog
• sudden power drop at a specific rpm
  • Intake valving actuation problem
• trouble getting to redline
  • Ignition failure
  • front O2 sensor failure
  • catalytic converter clog
  • air filter clog
  • e-shaft sensor fouled
  • fuel pressure loss
  • MAF failure

Cheers