gwilliams6

Back in the day, all of our Racing Beat built race rotary engines, including the one in my race turbocharged RX7 had balanced parts . Those engines lasted longer being run at high rpms with those balanced parts.
Cheers

ningja

I did do the recall in 2017. It's been <20K miles since then. Is 5 years/20K miles normal life expectancy? Called the dealership. Quoted $700 parts and labor. He also said it probably wouldn't be covered under recall since it's been so long since they replaced it. Is this something I can trust the dealership to handle? My regular rx8 specialist mechanic is gone now.

ningja

I did the "REPLACE PUMP RING SET AND FDD" recall in 2017, so I assume the series 1 was replaced. 5.5 years and 20K miles seems like a short life span, though, doesn't it? Dealership quoted $700 parts/labor for new one.

IamFodi

iTrader: (1)

Only if it was done right the first time.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

The fuel pump isn't part of the recall, the housing is. Some dealers swap both for some reason, but if they followed the letter of the recall, they would not have.

gwilliams6

Doing the recall DID NOT replace the Series One Fuel Pump with the better Series Two Fuel Pump. Mazda didn't do that. You would have had to get a Series Two Fuel pump on your own, and do the replacement separate from the recall work. You still have the Series One Fuel pump with just some new parts around it. You aren't going to solve your issues keeping the original Series One Pump of that age.

I do not recommend putting another Series One Fuel pump in, at any cost. It was a truly flawed design and will just give you issues again over time. That is why Mazda changed the fuel pump for the Series Two RX8 to a different design and a different manufacturer. .

The RX8Club here has a thread on how to change that pump for the better Series Two Fuel pump. You need to search it ,and get a Series Two Pump, if you can find one, and swap it out. Others have used other brand aftermarket pumps, with varying success.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...ries-i-230326/

I followed the DIY to the letter, with some help of a local Mazda mechanic and it worked perfectly, and solved all my fuel pump issues, even in hot weather, long highway drives and fast cornering. The Series Two fuel pump is the fuel pump Mazda should have had in the Series One from the beginning.

I haven't had a singe issue since installing the Series Two Fuel pump, works like a charm.
Cheers and best to you.

ningja

I see. There is a little more to the story. My local mechanic (not dealership) replaced the fuel pump just before the recall with an aftermarket pump. When I went in to the dealership for the recall, they noticed I had the aftermarket pump and couldn't do the recall with it. I called the dealership just now and he thinks most likely they put back in another series 1. Guess that means they took my good one and tossed it to complete the recall. He also said they probably wouldn't be able to put in a series 2 and that I should look at an aftermarket part. Good thing I didn't end up going in to get it replaced just to get another series 1.

My local RX specialist who did it the first time is gone. Is this a common enough job to take to any reuptable mechanic or should I find a specialist again?

Thanks.

dark38

Hi everyone \o/
If i install one more rotor in engine of rx-8, the rebuilding time will be more longer ?

I have this conclusion because the two rotors that have it work a lot, and maybe one more could stabilize.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

You need to research this.
It would be VERY EXPENSIVE and not easily done.
If you are an expert mechanic with a lot of money to burn, you might be able to do it, if not, forget it.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

By that logic a V12 should live 3x longer than a 4 cylinder, but that's not the case with any V12 I know (quite the opposite).

You could just not rev the engine as much, but it turns that that's also not a good way to keep a renesis alive for a long time (quite the opposite).

Seen another way, adding a rotor adds a rotor worth of possible failure points, without removing any from the existing 2 rotors. It will fail *sooner*

Slick1983

Is anyone else having trouble loading the Foxed.ca manuals?
I wasn't getting it on Edge; I tried Chrome and no problem, so ignore.

ciprianrx8

Is it me or way too many cars from the 2000s "look" too fast for their meek performance ?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

no trouble for me on either safari or firefox, but once you figure it out please have the courtesy to give the site a donation no matter how small

because everything there is a great resource that many people take for granted, but it takes money to keep all that information up and available to one and all.
.

prodtfm

Hey guys. I was doing a brake pad and rotor swap on my 04 rx-8 manual trans. It took me a about a week to get it done, because I ended up not having the right tools to depress the caliper. I finally got everything back together on the rear driver side. I go to start my car to flip it around so I can do the other side and it won't start. New battery and spark plugs within 6 months ago. Battery is fine but just cranks and won't turn over. I assume flooded. I followed steps online but it doesn't seem to be doing anything. I am looking for someone to explain how to de-flood properly on here but I can't seem to find anything with the search feature. Sorry for bothering everyone I hope to get this fixed as I already couldn't afford a mechanic for the pad/rotor job so this on top is gonna cause a lot of trouble. Cheers!

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure the battery is fully charged?
It's been my experience that if the battery isn't close to 100% it can be hard to start.

Be sure your terminals are clean and tight.
Even though the bolts are tight the terminals stretch and can be loose.

Do you have a booster?
If not you could also try jumping another car on it.

There are multiple deflooding threads.
If it's actually flooded it requires patience unless you get lucky.
You have to either depress the gas pedal or pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it until it sounds like it's trying to start before letting it get fuel again.
It takes a little trial and error.

Repeated attempts to deflood drains the battery as well.
A booster is really helpful if your battery is weakened.

It's important to wait a bit between cranks so you don't burn up the starter.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

^^ I recently bought a lithium booster/compressor to keep in my vehicles.
If you can afford it, it could help you out in this instance and emergencies as well.
I just used it to start my wife's Venza that had been sitting for a month.
Modern cars have more parasitic draws on the battery than older ones.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Deflooding always takes longer than you think it should. Was the last time you started it a very short run just to move it in the driveway?

But, it shouldn't have flooded in the first place if it's in good shape? You changed the spark plugs, what about coils?

gwilliams6

You will usually find subjects in the RX8Club better by using google. like googling "how to deflood an RX8, RX8 Club"
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...lumber-182410/.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tec...rx-8-a-223357/ (skip to step three here in this DIY)





Cheers and best to you.
If you have fresh coils, fresh plug wires, fresh plugs, have the upgraded starter (the original '04 starter was the worst and weakest) , fully charged battery with high enough cranking amps., and have had the fuel pump recall done, it should start, and you should never have it flood, really. Anything still original to '04 in this system should be replaced.

ronnydingding

I only had the engine flood on one occasion and used a tow start, it took about 500metres in 2nd gear, up to you if you feel Ok doing this.

Darion

Hi, I have a one dumb question for you....I was at the emission control and I failed the test... the car is fine, the spark plugs are fine, the engine is after a rebuild, I only have 8k km on it... the exhaust has the original catalytic converter. In one e-shop I found a cat that meets EURO6. The question is how much would it damage the engine if I installed this cat. If it helps here is brand and part number NAP carparts CAK10421... If its a bad idea just tell me how to pass please... I really love this car...

IamFodi

iTrader: (1)

When a cat says "Euro x" on it, that means it's suitable for cars that are made to that spec. Sadly that doesn't mean it'll make your car meet that standard.

The RX-8 needed a huge cat just to meet Euro 4. Euro 6 cars have engines that burn much more cleanly in the first place, so they don't necessarily need cats that big. That doesn't mean the one you linked won't work; it just means we can't tell what the result would be.

The site says it's specifically for the RX-8 so that helps. My guess is that this is an off-the-shelf cat, suitable for Euro 6 vehicles, welded into an RX-8 compatible section. I wouldn't expect this to make your RX-8 compliant with Euro 6, but if the vendor is trustworthy, it might help your car pass the emissions tests that are relevant for it.

Longevity will be another matter. Aftermarket cats have... a checkered history in this car.

Are you sure cat efficiency is what's causing you to fail the test? Makes sense to suspect that but I'd look at everything else just to be sure.

Maybe you can find an S2 RX-8 cat that someone has removed. The S2 cat is bigger and should be much more resilient than aftermarket options.

Darion

Thanks for the reply... I know EURO 6 on the cat doesn't mean I can meet this standard... I was wondering if it will help to get through EURO 4... and about used parts... not many owners in my country ... I think it will be a catalyst. as I wrote, the engine has been rebuilt and has driven only 8k Km, although it eats too much fuel, something around 15-18l / 100km on the highway. I will have to check the spark plugs though those should be fine as well. I came to the test with some premix, even though it should be very little... the bad thing about the test is that the technician has to let the engine run for 1 minute at 900rpm, the same at 2000rpm and finally at 4500rpm... in the upper revs, the test is almost it passed but it was terrible with the bottoms.. I'll try to take the cat down and clean it, or check if it's still whole...it's a pity that we don't have many people who can help with the work around these engines...

10KRPM

Where are you Darion, Slovakia? While I don't know the test parameters, I'd think any premix at all would be a bad idea.

Darion

Yes, Slovakia... post from test show CO at increased RPM must be no more than 0.2000 and mine are 0.5200... HC values ​​should be max 60, mine are 418...the oil in the fuel significantly increases emissions according to what the technician said. He automatically took it as engine damage and I had to explain to him that the Wankel is built that way...

Loki

iTrader: (1)

It's not THAT much oil though, assuming your injection system is the only source of oil in the combustion chamber. Check that your intake doesn't have oil in it. And obvious maintenance items like coils and spark plugs. The 8 passed these tests when it was manufactured, it should still be able to pass them or be exempt if the tests are newer. It's not like everyone is throwing away their 10 year old cars right?